Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

1217218220222223959

Comments

  • Craig,
    I believe the OBDII architecture needed to follow guidelines setup by the fed gov't. If I remember correctly, the architecture specified that OBDII computers be controlled by upgradeable software so that if/when upgrades become necessary no hw components would need to be replaced including memory rom and any other firmware related devices.

    During past problem resolution with my 2000 OB the shop foreman at the local Subaru dealer explained to me that the computers needed to be shipped back to SoA because the dealers did not have the capability to load sw onto the ecms.

    The limitation is probably be in the handheld diagnostic computers the dealers buy from Subaru. Perhaps they need to be redesigned. These handheld devices interface with the ecm via standard rs232 connectors. I would imagine that any laptop with an rs232 connector and the right propietary sw should be able to load sw onto the ecm without removing it from the car.

    Just my thoughts.
    Vince
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I had my ECU re-programmed @ Isuzu on my Trooper recently, so the technology is out there.

    -mike
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I agree with you completely. We often download new algorithms into data acquisition computers at work, using nothing more than an old laptop and a RS-232 cable. I'm sure Subaru mechanics could handle it!

    Now I'm wondering if I could talk to the ECM with a laptop . . .

    Craig
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    vince you're correct but once you put that capability into dealer's hands you actually put the capability in the hands of the public at large.

    if subaru doesn't want hobbyists or the aftermarket dinking with its ECU programming, keeping the tool in Cherry Hill is one way to achieve that.

    strangely, in the UK all dealers have this capability. although it is telling-- some aftermarket tuners have it too.

    -Colin
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Maybe we could write an e-letter of some sort to her boss? Wouldn't it be the Head of Cust./Dealer Services?

    -Dennis
  • Colin,
    GM dealers can reload sw. There's probably some type of security that prevents "most" people from loading patches or new programs that could impact (maybe improve) performance but alter emission levels. Auto magazines used to offer replacement chips in the back page ads but I don't recall ever seeing anyone offering sw upgrades for OBDII.

    I do believe in the future Fuji will be offering a similar capability to Subaru dealers that GM, and perhaps other dealers, already have.

    Craig,
    Browse around the web. There are vendors that sell rs232 connectors for laptops and the diagnostic sw that gets loaded on the laptop for about $150. You need to find sw that works with the specific auto manaufacturer. Some vendors are now offering connectors and sw for Palms. Try searching on "OBDII tools" from Google or Lycos.

    Vince
  • What is the recommended oil weight for a 98 Legacy 2.5GT Limited? The local dealer just told me 5W-30...I thought it's 10W-30. And, how is the proper weight determined?

    Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I believe it is 10w30 for all but the coldest climates, where thinner oils would be better.

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Actually, I would think it's 5W30 since the 98 GT uses the same Phase I engine as we do.

    Subaru usually recommends 5W30 for it's recent models because it works for wide range of temperatures and it provide marginally better gas milage than 10W30.

    Ken
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    well-- it depends on where zscottie lives. we'd be recommending the wrong oil if he's in Phoenix for example.

    -Colin
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    5W30 is the "preferred" weight listed in the manual for my car (97 2.2L) and my wife's (99 2.5L). That's for ambient temps of up to 104F. The manual then goes into the heavier weights for higher temps., severe driving, etc.

    They usually recommend the oil with the best flow at start-up and the best mpg. Depending on your driving habits or where you live, the dealer may recommend 10W30.

    Aren't manuals available on-line at mysubaru.com?

    -Dennis
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Dennis- the manuals for your specific MY is available on-line. Somehow for me, I don't get what I'm suppose to get. The manual. Got to contact the Webmaster - I think Beth is still reigning. :-D

    -Dave
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    A question was raised about the use of dry gas. Years ago this was a common question and I studied up on the subject. My organic chemistry is a bit rusty, so will try to do this from memory. Please forgive my chemical spelling as it is very late:

    Most of these are simple alcohols that 'lockup' and disperse small amounts of water so that they are less likely to freeze in a line, or reach the engine as a concentrate.

    The cheapest is methanol (CH3OH) (methyl alcohol) - wood based, maybe selling for as little as $0.35 cents per 12oz container. This was fine for mechanical fuel pumps and carbs of older American iron. Do not use it in a fuel injected car as methanol quickly damages rubber seals.

    Gasohol is a mix of gas and ethanol (C2H5OH)(ethyl alcohol) using fermented feed grains like corn. Most seal materials can stand up to 10% ethanol by volume before getting into trouble.

    Premium dry gas is an isomer (C3H7OH)(which carbon the OH group hangs off of) of propanol (propyl, or in this case, isopropyl alcohol). This is the $0.89 - $1.29 stuff. Last time this was in the news, most auto mfgrs weighed in with it being OK, but no more than one 12 bottle per tankful or so.

    I use it occasionally, so hope this is still the correct info.

    Steve
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    steve--

    I think you've got it right, isopropyl alcohol is sold under the brand name HEET (perhaps pure, perhaps a few additives). It does work very well.

    -Colin
  • tlimatlima Posts: 124
    Hello, I've been away from the forums for awhile, but am happy to report my '01 Forester has about 20k miles with no major problems except one...

    Recently, I've been noticing an occasional squeaking/screeching from under the hood, especially after short trips of 10-15mins. Today, I opened the hood and located the source of the noise as coming from the water pump/front pulley assembly. After longer trips, it is not that noticeable, but still there.

    I'm going to make an svc. apptmnt next week, but was wondering if anyone has any idea if this is serious. Could the bearings/pump be failing?

    Thanks, and it's good see all of the regulars are still here.

    -Tony
  • Could be the pump, could be the pulley, could be the belt. Either way, it ought to be a warranty item. Keep an eye on the temp gauge between now & that service appointment!

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • I am new to this board. Came here to get some info on premature rear wheel bearing failure. I have a 2002 Forester S and am pretty sure have one or both rear bearings going quickly. Sounds like I have snow tires on or have left a rear window open, noise is quite intrusive above 40mph. It came on quickly one day - came off the highway and thought "good grief! what is that roar?" I Checked oil level in differential, rotated tires, then thought wheel bearings. Have less than 10K miles. Am recently familiar with Impreza problem after searching the web with Google. Several comments recommended the forums at Edmund's, so here I am.
    Anyone know the SOA technical release numbers that update dealers on proper repair technique? Before I take for repair I like to have all the information that is available since I guess I am somewhat paranoid about dealer technicians.

    Regards
    Jim
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    '99 Legacys apparently have not escaped the Phase I head gasket problem. A couple guys on the i-club Legacy board had thiers go. One of 'em at 43K. SO I might have about 2500 miles left myself..... :(
  • Any input appreciated! First let me explain the symptoms. When the car is cold (below 45 degrees F) it won't shift out of 2nd until the tranny (not the engine) is fully warmed up. It will run at over 3K RPM at 60MPH until it is warm enough to shift and then will run normally - 2,500 RPM at 70MPH.

    This is actually the second Legacy I've had with this issue. (I had a third without the problem) The first was a '90 with 114K MI (I drove it this way until 180K before I sold it). The current one is a '93 Legacy with 82K. I bought it with 53K and experienced this from very the first winter I had it.

    The tranny fluid is full and was changed at the 60K service. Thoughts?
  • Hello All,
    Just wondering if anyone knows anything about Quality Subaru Parts & Acessories. I remember ordering parts from Darlene at some decent prices. Lately I have not been able to access their site. Do they still exist. Is Darlene taking orders and can she be reached by phone? Thanks for any help!!!!
    /Scott
Sign In or Register to comment.