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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's cool that there is an access panel now. I had to cut mine. ;-)

    -juice
  • yeah - gives good access to both the drain plug screw & the filter. my only problem was my crappy (from apartment days) rachet set didn't have a big enough rachet so while the car was up on the ramps - had to take the other vehicle out to the local hardware store & grab some bigger rachets - think it took a 17mm or 18mm - my old set only went to 16mm. oh well - at least now i have it for the future ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, I think it's 17mm. Mine goes to 19mm, but I went out and bought 20, 22, and 24. I think they skip the 21 and 23 mm sizes.

    I've used the 20 and 22 for wheel lugs on my cars, it's great with the torque wrench. And you just mentioned another case where I think a 2nd or even 3rd car is key.

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    The access panel sounds nice. Wonder if you could fit one from a 2003 onto a 1998.

    Ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,733
    After putting a few hundred miles on the new wheels / winter tires, I pulled out the torque wrench to check them (as recommended by both Subaru and Tire Rack). I originally did them to 72lb-ft with my 'click' wrench.

    In retrospect, I wish I had pulled out the 'beam' wrench to check what they were actually at before retightening them. I doubt they were much over 30-40. Took a good 1/4 turn to get them back to 72.

    Steve
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,349
    Wow Steve, good thing you checked the torque. Having lost a wheel in a past life, I know it's not fun.

    OTOH, I've since learned that as long as you do NOT use anti-seize or anything on the lug nuts, they stay pretty tight.

    Jim
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Thank god you checked those lugs Steve. Looks like you might get to test those tires on ice Thursday AM. I plan on installing the K&N filter and maybe plugs and fluid changes over the holiday. I will probably retorque my tires also.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Just rotated mine so I'm fine for a while. I'll check again in spring when I take them off for a fresh coat of wax.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    a slight pulsing of the brakes again. Remember, the original rotors were warped brand new. The replacement ones warped and were cut a few months ago. Now a slight pulsing is there, although it is not getting worse. This is the reason I am going to check the torque. Also, finding a little tapping/piston slap/whatever from the right side when the car is cold for about 1-2 minutes in the AM. Thing is the car sits in a heated (50F)garage all night with Mobil 1 in the crankcase.

    Greg
  • I'm shopping between the two model years. Is the '97 2.5L more reliable than the '96 model year? What difference is there besides the output spec and 87oct vs. 89oct fuel requirement. BTW, what acount for the diffrences? thanks.
  • dudedude Posts: 123
    Well, got my car back from 60K service yesterday. Dealer said everything looks good. One thing I did notice was that the car was doing less piston slapping before it's warm. I'll do more observations and let you know but I was quite surprised.
  • dudedude Posts: 123
    Also, I forgot to mention this before here but for those who have power antennas and it's sticking sometimes I found a little recipe. Long time ago I bought Prolong Engine Treatment pack which had Prolong Super Lubricant can. The last time when my antenna wouldn't go down all the way I figured I'd give it a shot and lube the antenna. Since then it never given me a problem. I clean it every 2 weeks or so, so that dirt isn't accumulated.
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    dude, regarding the slapping did you happen to check your oil level before servicing the car?

    being a little low will result in excessive valvetrain noise.

    -Colin
  • dudedude Posts: 123
    The slapping noise was consistent since I bought the car and I'd change the oil regularly and the last time I checked 3 weeks ago or so it wasn't low.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd ask what weight of oil they used, sounds like it worked nicely. Of course they did other stuff that might have made the difference.

    -juice
  • skiweeskiwee Posts: 28
    lapel pin down the center front windshield defroster on my Baja. Any ideas on how to retrieve it without taking the dash apart?
    Bet this is the first time anyone ever asked this question. Thanks.
    Mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Not sure, Luk, haven't had to do that yet. I'd say all of them, though. If anything, on the boxer the oil would be more likely to leak from a lower seal, where the oil would sit when the engine is off.

    I'd get the '97 for the 10 extra horses and the fuel savings. Reliability is very likely similar.

    I forget the exact changes, but I think they simplified the valvetrain and the intake.

    -juice
  • nygreg,

    I had brake pulsing, usually slowing from high speeds. Doing my 30K service, I noticed my rotors had some grooving, but were not warped. The pads had plenty of life left and didn't have grooves. I block sanded the rotors, not to remove the grooves, but to get a cleaner surface. I then replaced the brake fluid, bleeding lots and lots of fluid through each wheel cylinder. The pulsing went away after all this. It is now about 4K past and the pulsing is starting to become noticable again.

    I think a combination of soft rotors and brake fluid contamination are the culprit on my car. Yours could be similar.

    -Brett
  • I have not seen any Baja in the city yet. I will know it is you, Mike. If there is WRX driving next to you closely, it may be me. lol

    -Luk
  • skiweeskiwee Posts: 28
    I keep the Baja in Sherman, Ct (near New Milford)
    You can't miss it. It's the bright yellow one. I've only seen one so far when I drove up to Maine. Love it except clutch is grabby in first-takes some getting used to. Have you found that quirk with your WRX?
    Mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's a Subaru trait. That clutch is sending power to all four wheels every time.

    -juice
  • It runs great after warming up. How is the back seat in Baja? Can it be adjust or is is fixed? I tried the WRX Wagon, and it is not comfortable in the back.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Baja has less rear seat space than the Outback. It's fixed, though the whole thing folds to use the pass-through.

    So it's passable, but not roomy. I was fine, 6' about 220 lbs. No room to spare, though. For kids it is more than enough.

    I'd still consider one with a more powerful engine and a clever cover of some kind.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I will investigate over the holidays - I have 2 weeks off. This is the only thing about this car that I can complain about. I absolutely love driving it. I might even bring it to the dealer for brake flush and have them investigate. They said the work was good for a year even if I pass 36K.

    Greg
  • texan5texan5 Posts: 23
    This is an interesting tidbit that I've come across on another board. The poster there mentioned that Subaru had decided to use the MAP (Manifold air pressure) sensors in fuel injection systems that it uses over the more widespread MAF (mass air flow) meters. Apparantly MAPs trade fuel efficiency (worse) for reliability (better). Any subaru tech out there that might care to comment?

    texan5
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I'd also go with the '97 between the two. I think the '97 was able to lower octane requirements via knock sensor modifications, IIRC.

    Ken
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Oil level certainly does affect valvetrain noise, especially with the DOHC engine. I usually can tell when I'm getting a little low just from the sound.

    Oil weight also plays a role. I find 10W30 to be quieter, not suprisingly.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Avoid the MAF. I think those were in the last year ('99) 2.5l Phase I engines. Touch the intake and they blow up, and cost $300-400 to replace. Unless you keep it bone-stock, I'd stay away from the '99 engine.

    A local guy put a S-AFC on his RS, and his MAF blew up. Replaced it and sold the S-AFC quick, tough and expensive lesson.

    The '98 is fine because the intake is a little different (not sure exactly how), and the 2000 Phase II got the more reliable MAP.

    If you keep it stock, it's OK, and Subaru covers it under warranty, so don't worry.

    -juice
  • Hi,

    Anyone having any trouble with WRX starting after spending day outside with temps in single digits. Car did not sound like the battery was low and eventually flooding was an issue.

    Rereading the owner's manual suggests that we did not follow the procedure exactly.

    Comments???

    Thanks

    LANshark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I found the OE battery for my Forester, with something like 260 CCAs, was not very powerful in a deep chill. I now have a 535 CCA battery and it lights right up.

    -juice
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