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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    we're kicking a dead horse here, but the timing belt gets inspected at 30k and 60k miles, replacement at 90k.

    he said, erroneously or not, that it was his 3rd belt in 40k miles.

    that statement lead me to believe that replacement this time was frivilous. that's my last comment on it though.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good to hear, Subieman. I'm sure mine helped keep the engine relatively dry in that water crossing I did at the Pine Barrens. :-)

    I'd still like to see an aluminum skid plate as a factory option.

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    I know you've got your own chat, but it looks like this Wednesday we'll have some participants from the Maintenance & Repair boards who are technicians.


    Our topic for Wednesday, March 13: Stump the Technicians!
    Join us with your maintenance & repair questions this Wednesday from 5-7pm PT/8-10pm ET.

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  • outback165outback165 Posts: 108
    Internet connection has been down for a week - I think I need to take the day off today just to catch up on email and boards like this! But I've got chores, and for one of them, I need your help:

    Our other car is a 95 Taurus with 87K miles. Nice car in great shape. Just took it in for LOF and rotate and balance. They called back to say the car needs a complete rear brake job: calipers, rotors, pads, and bleed the system. $430 + tax. Sound about right? I went through my paper work and it doesn't look as though I've done any rear brake work on the car. Is that possible??? I called a local Ford dealership and he quoted me $600 + tax, but questioned whether the car would really need calipers.

    Anybody's opinion would be VERY MUCH appreciated. Look forward to catching up on the boards this afternoon.

    Thank you.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I believe they are rear drums on the tarus. My dad went over 100K miles with his Acclaim before replacing the rear brakes.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038

    as paisan says, first I'd be curious to know if you really have rear discs or not. if not, that sounds pretty high since your drums are probably fine and just need new shoes.

    if you do have rear discs, then I would advise you NOT to replace the calipers if that's what they were recommending. there should be no reason for that at 87k, cleaning and reassembling the caliper should be perfectly fine. I bet the rotors don't need replacement either, probably just turned LIGHTLY on the lathe to properly use the new pads.

    in short, I wouldn't pay that $400 and the ford dealer is truly nuts asking $600.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    peter, stop hitting refresh in your browser window. you're reposting the same message over and over.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    has rear disc's.

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    Colin and the other folks would probably be best to respond to this, but I'd find it pretty questionable that BOTH calipers need to be replaced at the same time.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm not sure if I've ever heard of anyone needing new caliperes. Discs sure, but calipers?

    My rental Taurus in Florida had rear discs. You can check - peek through the rims - are the rear breaks a shiny thin disc, or is it a painted encased drum?


    PS You can delete duplicate posts by just hitting the delete button next to them
  • green_obgreen_ob Posts: 10
    I have a new 02 Outback (base, auto) and have just put on about 1k miles. The manual said not to drive at one speed for too long. How long is 'too long' ? I have a one-way drive to work of about 35 highway miles-about 65 mph a little under 3000rpm. That takes about 35 min. Is that 'too long' ?

    Also, do I really need to change the oil at 1000 miles ?

  • outback165outback165 Posts: 108
    Sorry guys about the duplicate messages- I've been out running errands and just got back to check the board. I did leave the Edmunds window open, I wonder whether somehow the computer refreshes itself. Anyhow, sorry and I think I got all the dupes out. Also, THANKS for the advice. Unfortunately they started on the job, but I'll get the facts and post them later.
    Also, my 01 OB started knocking this weekend. Bad tank of gas maybe? Should I put in a tank of 93?

    Thanks all.

    Chris - I think the idea is not to set the cruise control at 65 for a cross country drive, but to let your foot fluctuate the speed. Anyhow, I don't think 35 miles is that long, but let your foot fluctuate the speed between, say, 60 and 70 for the 35 miles.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Just take is easy for 1000 miles, try not to exceed 4000rpm and vary the revs (don't use cruise). I changed my oil at 1k miles, but Subaru actually says to do it at 3k. Oops.

    Pete: I wouldn't change the octane until I tried at least another tank or so.

  • outback165outback165 Posts: 108
    I think I will be a mechanic - either that, or not car crazy! Anyhow, just got back from the mechanic. The deal with the brakes is that apparantly one caliper froze up. As a result, the rotor warped from heat stress. He actually showed me the parts (not that I knew what I was looking at but he did the best he could to explain to me the way the brakes work and what happened.) What he explained is that he can't just replace one side, he has to do both. So the total "Brake Overhaul Rear Hydraulic Disc Brake Service" cost $390 which included rotars, pads, calipers, and bleeding the brake system. Comes with a 3 year 36K miles warranty on parts at all Tires Plus locations. The two Ford dealers I called wanted between $500 and $600 for supposedly the same work. Oh well, it's done. The car stops, so I guess all's good. Maybe we're done now with brakes for a couple of years! Thanks everyone for your input!

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The last guy that worked on your brakes probably didn't put the anti-sieze grease on the pistons.

  • dmanzidmanzi Posts: 12
    OK, The Outback is fixed, and running fine, once again. But here's the question: Since the cause of failure for the head gaskets and heater coil *may* have been a corrosive in the coolant (I'm merely guessing), what else could be affected by it? I'm asking to I can watch those parts more closely and not get stuck with another breakdown. I can guess the radiator, engine block, hoses, water pump, and heater coil, but what else does the coolant touch?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Was the cooling system already flushed? And I mean with forced water, 'til it was clear?

    I would inspect the insides of the rubber hoses, to see if there is any sign of corrosion. This would be easy if you're also doing the flushing at the same time.

    The hoses should be smooth inside. Any gritty texture, cracking, or too-soft surfaces would be a red flag.

  • francophilefrancophile Posts: 667
    ...have you figured out yet that the brake job was on a Taurus with discs on the rear yet?


    Given the mileage and the fact that one caliper had siezed AND there were going to be two new rotors installed, adding the second caliper isn't really all that crazy sounding to me. (I do wonder though if anyone actually rebuilds them anymore, or if they just replace them.)

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