Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

jam05

Hi all - ok, I don't have a statement of principal to make anymore, but I'm still trying to shut those @#$%! chimes off. I tried the "click/unclick" thing 20 times within the first 30 seconds after the initial chiming stops - but it didn't work. The car was running at the time, is this correct? I searched the Forums for more exact instructions but haven't found them - so if anyone can clarify the process we would be very thankful and appreciative! Happy Friday to all!

locke2c

install the valve cover gaskets carefully and torque them to spec, and not a bit more. if you overtorque them you'll flatten the round rubber gasket and you'll have leaks.

 

other than that, it's straight forward. oh and how are the plug boots? I doubt you have enough miles to warrant replacing the plug wires if they're OK, but if the boots are chewed up/fatigued a bit from the oil I'd replace them.

 

~Colin

locke2c

pfft, OK I won't discuss it any further since this is a problems & solutions topic but I'm not going to help you.

 

~c

xwesx

Yeah, I know. I wasn't saying that was a problem, just pointing out that it does not chime to remind about the seatbelt.

leo2633

Thanks Colin. The boots look OK. The wires were replaced about 35K ago, but I'm going to replace them again, to avoid future problems from the oil contamination. The car has 109K now.

 

Do the round rubber seals for the spark plug towers just press in place in the valve covers or is there some type of notch that they seat into?

 

Thanks again.

 

Len

locke2c

Len I'm not sure, I've never replaced the spark plug seals. I believe they are pressed to fit but I'd check carefullly (or do a google search) before proceeding.

 

~Colin

xwesx

To disable seatbelt chime:

  

1) Turn key to ACC position (note seatbelt light and chime will starting going off)

2) Insert buckle, wait until seatbelt light goes out

3) Remove buckle, wait for light to come back on

4) Repeat steps 2-3 for a total of twenty repetions.

5) Remove key, start engine

  

There will still be an initial set of chimes but it should go quiet after that.

  

Ken

xwesx

Now, how exactly you start the engine after you remove the key, I am not sure. But these seem like pretty good (detailed) instructions. ;-D

philliesfan2

Hi Subaru owners,

 

My wife had trouble starting her 95 Impreza LX Wagon (with 125K on it) yesterday morning. She called AAA and the mechanic came out and was able to get it started without jumping the battery.

 

She took it into a repair shop near where she works and left it. They checked both the alternator and the starter and found no problems. They reported it appeared to be the battery and replaced it.

 

After she picked it up and was driving home late last night, the "Check Engine" light came on. I'm assuming that changing batteries disrupted something electrical and that this is a sign of something simple. (hopefully)

 

She called them today and they were avoidant, insisting that changing the battery was not apt to cause that, yadda, yadda, yadda.

 

I'm hoping some posters here might have some ideas as to what may be causing the light to come on what to do next.

 

Thanks in advance for your response.

 

David

c_hunter

There are better instructions on another forum relating to Legacy GT. I'd love to be helpful and post a URL but that is not allowed at Edmunds.

 

You definitely don't want the engine running. Turning the key to ON (not ACC) is one of the steps.

 

Craig

fibber2

David,

 

Did anything change in the driveability or performance of the car? Did it start ok on Saturday morning?

 

Step number one is to read and interpret the code. Some of the parts places, like AutoZone, will read it out for free or a nominal charge. If it looks like something trivial, record the data but let them clear it. If it doesn't return, and the car drives fine, then you are probably done. If it returns, then you have to determine if this is related to the fact that it would not start yesterday morning, or if something in the testing at the shop triggered a new problem.

 

Steve

ateixeira

When they connected the battery, did they have the key fob? Usually the light blink or the alarm will go off.

 

I'd get a fresh start, reset the ECU.

 

Disconnect the negative battery terminal, wait 20 minute, reconnect. Start and let it idle til warm.

 

This time have the keyless entry fob ready, and cycle the lock/unlock a few times to quiet the alarm and/or the flashing lights.

 

-juice

philliesfan2

Thanks Steve and juice for your help.

 

The car has started fine since she had the battery replaced. I suspect the change in battery has some part of the electrical system "confused" (for lack of a better word). I don't believe this is anything major, just something that needs attention.

 

The Impreza is an older model without electric locks.

 

Thanks again for your ideas. David

kens

Here's the method for disabling the Seatbelt Chime on the 05 Leg/OB cut and pasted from the service manual:

 



1) How to cut: Repeat fastening and unfastening the driver’s seat belt for 20 times within 30 seconds after turning the ignition switch ON. Enabling and disabling cutting is done with the same operation.

(The setting is changed for both the driver’s seat and passenger’s seat.)

 

2) Setting lasts: Until the microprocessor is reset

The cutoff function is reset when the battery is removed (battery positive terminal disconnected) or when the body integrated unit is removed. The cutting function may also be reset when the engine

is cranked with low battery voltage.

 

Ken

joseph50

2001 Forester S. 51.5K miles.

I just got off spending two hours on the turnpike.

Around the 65 mph speed limit and a bit above I began to hear an irregular ticking (at first I thought it was my keys cluster hitting against the steering column - but the sound came from "deeper" in the instrument panel or engine compartment), interrupted by an intermittent metalic whirring sound. No sounds at lower speeds when I pulled through rest plazas.

Anyone have any clues?

Thanks!

lfdal

I changed the oil in the wife's 2003 OBW w/27000 mi on it this weekend. After I started it the valve clatter died down, as usual and sounds a little bit like sewing machine. Its sounded like that since day one and since they use solid lifters, I believe, that doesn't bother me.

 

What is bothering me, on the other hand, is a lower frequency noise I am hearing from the vicinity of the number one piston (driver's side, closest to front) It's a much lower frequency than the valve noise I'm used to @ 650 rpm or so, and a lot deeper.

 

If I put my foot long screwdriver on the block (I really have to buy a stethoscope one of these days) and listen I can hear the noise emanating from there. If I rev the engine the noise gets a lot louder. I was trying to think of some number of rotations that would divide down and come out about right. It seems to occur 3 or 4 times per second at approx 650 rpm.

 

From what I've heard (no pun intended) on the forums its not loud enough for piston slap - it also doesn't get louder if I rev the engine a bit and then let off quickly.

 

Any ideas from the mechanically inclined? I need to schedule the dealer to do some of the 30k maintenance in March and will bring it to their attention then.

 

TIA

Larry

jsun

I'm sorry to hear that you're experiencing the same problem. I haven't been checking this forum in a couple of weeks but here is an update on my 05 Legacy GT Wagon. Around the middle of January, my car was towed the second time to the dealer for the starting problem. Subaru had no clue what the problem was but they authorized the dealer for a starter relay replacement to see if that would fix the problem. I did file a case with Subaru of America and was told I was the only 05 Legacy owner reporting the problem. My car had been starting fine since then till last Monday morning when the engine failed to crank again. I kind of expected this to happen again as the dealer was never sure whether the starter relay was THE problem when they replaced it. So, my Legacy was towed again, the third time since I purchased it 12/22/04. And, just like the two previous incidents, the Legacy got off the flat-bed tow truck, a mechanic jumped in and started her up right away. However, the dear refused to take her in for service this time. They said they had done every test they could perform on the car and there was nothing more they could do if they couldn't duplicate the problem. So, they basically told me to get lost in a polically correct way. So I left and dialed up Subaru Customer service to update my case. They told me there was nothing more they could do to help me. Under the circumstances, I requested for a replacement vehicle and was told no by one of their senior service rep. If you haven't filed a case with Subaru of America (1-800-Subaru-3), please do so. You're welcome to mention my case with them to beef up your case. My Case Number is 714166. I believe what you and I are experiencing is a manufacturer's defect in the 05 Legacy/Outback's ignition electrical system, and at least in my case Subaru is refusing to address it. Dealing with my Legacy problems has been very stressful. I developed a serious case of Shingles after my car was towed last week and I had to miss two days work to recover. Could it be a coincidence? Sure! I hope you have better luck getting your problem resolved and please keep us posted. Do check into your state's Lemon Law just in case. The next time my car is towed, I'll be calling the Utah Department of Consumer Protection to file for Utah Lemon Law.

  

Jun

fibber2

Jun,

 

Something is changing on the ride in to the dealership on the flatbed. A stuck relay is breaking free, a tarnished or loose electrical connector is making contact, a cracked circuit board is re-establishing contact, an IC has a cold solder joint, etc. So it is obvious that this approach is not going to yield any useful data. The problem must be diagnosed out there in the field, under the exact conditions in which they are occuring.

 

My approach would be as follows:

Call SoA back again, and request to speak to a supervisor. I suspect that they will balk at this suggestion, but after 3 event in a month on a brand new car, someone must have the authority to make this happen. Ask them to notate in your record that the car must not be moved. An experienced electrical tech from your dealership must come out with the tow operator and verify that the car will not crank. I would think that some basic verification tests can be run with portable equipment that can help them determine what to replace, or at least where to look. Is there power (sufficient voltage and amperage) reaching the starter solenoid? Probably not. Why? What gates this? etc....

 

Insist that this is in their best interest - otherwise the lemon law will become your only reasonable remedy.

 

Steve

hypov

hypov, "Legacy/Outback Wagons Problems & Solutions (Wagons)" #4188, 31 Jan 2005 10:59 am

mfaucher

Hola

I have a 2000 Impreza R.S. standard, 57k miles and check engine light has been coming off and on intermittingly throughout the latest cold weather. I've run fuel system cleaner and have been using only 93 octane fuel and it will go off for a day or two, then come on- there is a noticeable lag when I step on gas and car smells like...an 79 Bronco or something- not like rotten eggs. My suspicion is catalytic converter is clogged and exhaust is flowing back into manifold...I know this is probably tough to diagnose in a disucssion board, but thought I'd try anyway...many thanks!!

Mike F

ateixeira

We had a 626 that was hesitating badly, turned out to be clogged up fuel injectors. We had a "throttle body service" performed on it and it just ran like new.

 

Besides that, could be plugs, plug wires, clogged fuel filter, or a clogged exhaust, sure.

 

-juice

xwesx

In addition to the mechanical issues juice suggested, it could also be sensor failure.

 

My car was running quite poorly this summer for a few days (again, the CEL indicator was lit intermittently, though more on than off). The car ran fine after warm-up, but hideously upon start up and plenty of immisions! My problem was due to mechanics, but sensors: "Knock" sensor failed, timing and temperature sensors working intermittently. Upon replacement of the sensors, the car ran perfectly even without changing plugs (which were certainly fouled by the poor operation).

 

In this case, it may be worth your while to have the codes drawn.

mfaucher

Yeah, will do. Found a local mechanic that is 1/3 price of Subaru dealer....many thanks!

xwesx

You could probably diagnose whether it was engine or wheel/transmission related if you steadily increase the engine RPM while the vehicle is at rest to see if it repeats. My water pump whined at fast (>3400 RPM) rotations before it finally went out. I thought it was just because the temps have been so cold.... *oops*

milodog2000

After about an hour of highway driving, the temperature gauge on our 1997 Impreza Outback starts to creep up. It has never fully overheated, but it goes right up to the redline. No problems around town. We put in a new thermostat, but the problem continues.

 

On our last long trip, I found that if I shifted into 4th gear at moderate highway speeds (sending RPMs above 3500 or so), the temp gauge would almost immediately drop down to the normal range and stay there until I shifted into fifth and the RPMs dropped again. I could repeat this pattern every time I tried. Any ideas? Faulty gauge? Heat pump?

xwesx

I think your water pump is going out. Have you noticed whether the heater pumps out hot air when this happens? If it is not hot, or cools of dramatically during an 'episode,' it is definitely the water pump. Assuming the thermostat is still working properly, the car will not overheat like it does with a bad thermostat because the fluid can still pass from radiator to engine and back, but the engine water temp will be far hotter than the radiator because it is only passively moving.

 

Depending on your mileage, it might be time for a new timing belt as well (and a good time to replace it since you must go through the belt to reach the pump).

ateixeira

Redline makes a product called Water Wetter that makes it run cooler.

 

But it's out of spec, and might just mask a more serious problem.

 

-juice

c_hunter

I would start by checking the accessory belt that goes to the water pump -- make sure it is not slipping or worn. Also, check the cooling system for trapped air. Finally, if all else turns up negative, I would replace the water pump.

 

How many miles on the car?

 

Craig

dcm61

I would start by checking the accessory belt that goes to the water pump -- make sure it is not slipping or worn.

 

FYI - The water pump is driven by the timing belt.

 

DaveM

vetmats

Does anyone know where I can find out how to adjust the driver's side window on a 2003 Outback?

 

I am getting some wind noise on that side. Right now, I am fixing the wind noise by moving the window down just a tad.

 

Thanks.

fibber2

Craig H. is our resident expert on inside panel removal, door glass track angle adjustment and gusset replacement. Hopefully he will not mind me posting links to his site!!!

 

You might start by downloading the speaker .pdf file as it shows the basics of door panel removal:

 http://content.subarunet.com/snet/business/fixedops/guides/Legacy- %20Speaker%20Upgrade.pdf

 

Next, this is one of Craig's personal links for gusset replacement:

 

http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/gusset/

 

And Craig's rear window adj (but the concepts are the same...)

 

http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/window/

 

Good luck,

 

Steve

c_hunter

You keep better track of those URLs than me!

 

Craig

c_hunter

FYI - The water pump is driven by the timing belt.

 

Wow, I had no idea! First time I have heard of that.

 

Craig

xwesx

Yeah, it makes it a real pain in the pa-tutsky to access. If I was a responsible forum member, I would have photographed the process on my '96 last Sunday. However, I was more focused on getting the car finished in a 4-hour window than taking pictures. I would guess that the Impreza is set up similarly.

fibber2

Unfortunately for us weekend mechanics, this has become an all too common practice in modern engine design. The waterpump is behind the timing cover, and driven off the timing belt. I had Toyota's dating back into the '80's that did it this way. Getting to it requires pulling the harmonic balancer, etc.

 

Steve

xwesx

On a good note, it turns out that the last time I replaced the timing belt (90K back), I had inadvertantly reinstalled the belt with one cam sprocket off by one tooth. I didn't notice any problems and the engine ran good in my opinion - just as good as when I bought it, but this time we reset the timing perfectly and it runs as smooth as silk. No little ticking, no minor vibrations, just glassy smooth. Heck, I almost feel like I have a new car - perfectly poised for its next major malfunction!

fibber2

Hi Craig!

 

I keep a log of the good stuff that shows up in these forums - things I figure I might need myself at a later date. I even downloaded all of your photos and put them in a Powerpoint file for easy viewing over a year ago. Talk about infringement!!!

 

Funny thing was that I had recorded the link to "gussets", but not "window". I knew it was probably still out there, but just couldn't get to it. I must have typed in 30 words in that space, each time getting 'page not found', or 'access denied' before I hit upon the right word and the page of 6 thumbnails popped up. I felt like a hacker trying to crack your code!

 

Steve

c_hunter

Ah, OK, now I will know who to point a finger at when my monthly bandwith allotment is exceeded ;-)

 

I'm glad the info is useful to you. I wish I had the initiative to document even more projects. I just added an iPod stereo system to my ski helmet and that was a real good project...

 

Craig

stynkdur

Inadvertently (spare me the abuse please, it was dark) I connected the pos cable to the neg post on my battery and neg cable to pos post. A few sparks, then when I opened the car door and saw no dome light I realized what I had done and quickly disconnected the battery again. Did not try to start car or use any electricals (other than dome light of course). Just wondering if anyone has done this and what damage needed to be fixed. IE, did you fry any fuses or electronics? Any fusable links affected etc? Mine is a 2001 Forester, basic model. Thanks for any specific experiences shared with this type of screwup.

c_hunter

Well, I have made my share of idiot mistakes (don't get me started) so I'm not the one to give you a hard time.

 

If you hook the battery up the right way and the car starts and runs fine, then you are probably OK. Hard to say. Some of the electrical components would work OK backwards, many were probably switched off so it won't matter, and the ones that would fail will become obvious!

 

I have to think that the complex electronics, like the ECU, only allow juice to flow one way, so they would either be unaffected or fry immediately.

 

If the car starts and runs OK, then I would quietly drive off and thank my lucky stars....

 

Craig

stynkdur

Hi, new owner here of a used 2001 Forester basic model. Does anyone know if this model has to have the clutch pedal depressed to start car? thx.

edunnett

I would NOT continue to drive the car with the temp gauge anywhere near the red. Even if you're not IN the red, you're likely doing a number on your head gasket and from there, your cylinder head itself. With the already poor track record of the head gasket, I wouldn't push it. You should get this checked out immediately and pull over and the let the engine cool for 30 minutes or more at a time when it gets up there.

 

Side-bar:

And by the way, that Redline Water Wetter stuff... I have it and am not impressed. What it does is make water bubbles in your system smaller and less likely to accumulate in one spot. Air bubbles in your cooling system are bad because the indicate a pressure leak from someplace and can also cause more problems by creating "hot spots" in the engine which can cause warping to your cylinder head and head gasket... So Water Wetter helps to reduce more engine damage when you've already got a bad air bubble situation. When my old car was running hot for a little while (needed a new radiator) I added Water Wetter to no avail. I think they use it more in race cars that don't use anti-freeze but water only in the cooling systems. Before anyone goes and gives me sh** about water only cooling systems I will just say that water cools an engine better than anything. However for extreme temps (winter in Nebraska and summer in the keys) Glycol-Ethelyn (coolant/antifreeze) raises the boiling temperature and lowers the freezing temperature of water and helps prevent rust and corrosion. It does not help cool your engine any better. So race cars often use water only because they change it so often and want more cooling power - they use the water wetter to reduce chances of boiling over and hot spots.

 

*WHEW*

ateixeira

I think that yes, you do need to depress the clutch pedal to start the car.

 

My brother had a Chevette a while back and it didn't have that safety feature, he started it in 1st and slammed into a wall. I had been in front of the car about 5 seconds earlier, had I stayed I might be in a wheelchair today.

 

-juice

fibber2

Elissa is technically correct. Two factors, heat capacity and heat transfer rate determine whether a fluid is a good remover of heat in a cooling system, and pure water is one of the very best. Adding glycol extends the boiling and freezing points making it more practical for everyday use, but pure water is probably the better choice as a coolant if carefully controlled.

 

Steve

xwesx

Yep. That's a big issue with water-based heating systems up here in Fairbanks. Do you use pure water to get the max efficiency out of your new radiant heating system, or add glycol so that in the event of a freeze-up, you don't have a $20,000 repair bill? Generally, the repair bill wins the day, but there are folks who "plan" to never be without heat and use straight water. It creates a fairly significant difference in heating costs as time progresses.

vetmats

Steve,

   Thanks for the links! I hope to have some time this weekend to try out some adjustments.

 

   I'm not sure if I will be able to adjust away the wind noise though. With the window all the way up, the noise comes from the top of the window. But with the window rolled down just a hair, the noise moves to halfway down the front pillar side of the window.

 

   I think that I might just end up replacing one wind noise with another after adjustments.

 

vetmats

fibber2

Before you go to the elaborate, try greasing up those seals well, and clean any residual black stuff off the glass at the sealing spots. It made a difference on my wind noise. I use the Meguires rubber/vinyl protector (sort of like Armorall). There is supposedly a better seal lube called Shinitsu Grease, but although I bought a tube from Honda, I have yet to give it a try.

 

Steve

truecold

Does anybody on this board know how to install a replacement clockspring in the steering column without activating or disturbing the airbag mechanism at all? My horn stopped working and the airbag light has come on. The local shop said I required a new spiral cable/clockspring.($433) I got one from a used parts store($100) and the local shop won't touch it now, so I have decided to do it myself.

Any advice would be very helpful, I don't want to screw up the airbag/horn or have it go off inadvertently in my face. I will also replace the thermostat as well, is there a smart way to do this without losing my coolant everywhere?

truecold

Oh yeah by the way my car is a 1998 Subaru Forester.

johnclarke58

My 1999 Legacy Outback has 82000 kilometers and the transmission is a problem. It is automatic and when I put the car into drive, it doesn't engage for 2 to 4 seconds or until I give it a lot of gas. Then it finally does engage, not smoothly but jerks fairly violently.

Does anyone have any answer to this problem that does not involve replacing the transmission, the car is now out of warranty