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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    My A/C still works fine too, '98 with 53k miles. I cannot keep it on fan setting 4, else I'll end up like Frosty. I usually use 1, on a really hot day 2-3.

  • All manuals are relatively harder to shift to 1st while in motion (some more than others). I find the WRX is easier to put into 1st while moving than my Honda Accord was (I can typically shift into 1st easily under 10mph while braking). The crunching is probably due to worn synchros (shifting down to 1st while in motion is pretty hard on them). If you double-clutch it, you can shift down to 1st with much less stress on the synchros (even at around 25mph, it goes right in -- I've done so on several occasions without any difficulty, though only to see if I could not really during normal driving)
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    ateixeira Sep 24, 2002 3:23pm

    I thought the Legacy GT rides on 215s?

  • Went to the dealer today to pick up what I thought would be a set of 4 Outback cargo area hooks. Instead they'd gotten me a single pair of the little part that's welded onto the floorpan in the same area. Ah well, back to the drawing board - guess I'm back to looking for a 95 up Outback in a salvage yard - each hook comes off with a single bolt.

    While there, the normal parts guy was on vacation - the one that carefully showed me how the crush washer fits on the filter? The other guy was also nowhere in sight. So I asked the service guy temporarily running the counter about the crush washers for the oil filters. Blank look, followed by a measured "That's for the oil pan bolt". "Are you certain, because I was told by someone else here that they go around the threaded hole - he even showed me how they fit on the filter". "Nope, I do about 10 oil changes a day here and there is absolutely no crush washer needed on the factory filter."

    So. For those of you I unwittingly passed this information on to, please accept my apology. The crush washer goes on the drain plug as many have surmised. You can now all forget the crush washer incident ever happened, and I'll pretend I don't have one out in my garage. On my Legacy oil filter this very moment..... Must resist changing fresh synthetic oil at 800 miles.....I'm not really OCD......must resist..........heh

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Doug, it's not going to hurt anything unless you tried tightening the filter down enough to actually crush the washer. If you did, then yeah your next change is going to be interesting. Nothing I haven't done before-- I've had to put a screwdriver through a filter a few times, once I cut the whole thing away with tin snips and tapped the filter boss itself. That one was a 2 day oil change... ;-)

  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Maybe if you inflate the larger tires to the max recommended air preassure by the tire manufacturer, will stiffens the sidewall up and take some of the side grooves off the pavement.
    Not sure if that works but I noticed better handling with the Potenzas at 35 psi than at 32 psi.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Try the double-clutching suggestion. Blip the throttle with the clutch released to match revs, get that flywheel spinning to match the engine, then it might let you pick 1st.

    But unless you are perfect you will wear down the synchro.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    No - I think they are 205/55R16, just like the WRX. The Forester uses 215s, though.

    So for a GT, 225/50 is a plus zero, but the diameter is the exact same, coincidentally.

    Don't overtighten the filter or you'll have an experience like Colin described. Don't ask how I know!

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Yeah, don't ever change your oil when you're angry about something. :-)

  • I generally keep my oil filters on the loose side, and haven't had to use a filter wrench for the last 5 years or so since I started doing this. I go only a half turn from contact and haven't ever had a leak. But it's pure pleasure to simply reach in there and pull a filter off in 10 seconds..

    On the tire suggestion to increase pressure until some of the tire is no longer touching - this would not be advisable. Excess center wear, significant loss of traction, stress on the suspension and passengers from the hard ride, etc. Stick in the range of the mfrs suggested pressures, though 5psi over is certainly within the range if ya gotta have that precise turn in and don't mind the ride/wear.

  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    I praise Flemington so much I guess it was inevitable it would come around and bite me in the rear. :-)
    About 3K miles after the 60K svc. on my wife's OB, she complained her car was smoking after driving 20 miles to work. I poked around and put it up on ramps and discovered ATF all over the exhaust (everything past the trans. pan). I thought maybe it was spilled from the service and still burning off, so I just wiped it up.

    A few days later my wife said the car was still smoking. I decided to check if the bolts were tighten and started to turn one with gentle pressure. It only loosened so I thought I was going the wrong way. Went the opposite way and the bolt just broke in half. I discovered a few other bolts were not tight enough either. I'm taking the car back this Saturday to have them check it out.

    Anyone have an idea how long a tranny pan reseal will take? I haven't called them back with my latest discovery and just curious if it can be done within the four hours the car will be there Saturday. I'm guessing a couple of hours since the exact problem is obvious.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The bolt broke? Wow, aren't those beefy 17mm plugs?

  • What bolts are you specifically referring to? I'm assuming tranny pan bolts but you don't make this clear. The tranny pan should take the same as a normal tranny service as to do it correctly they should remove the pan, renew the gasket or the sealant, and put it back up. I'd want them to use all new bolts and explain how someone applied enough torque to a bolt that screws into an aluminum part to nearly shear it off.

    If they're not going to do this, then they'll be doing nothing you couldn't do at home in 10 minutes - merely going from bolt to bolt tightening them up and replacing one....

    Also, be sure you've got enough fluid in the tranny to drive it. If you arrive there with it low, they'll note "customer drove vehicle with underfilled tranny knowing he had a leak" and any tranny issues in the future will be all yours. Be sure you tell them you checked the level or filled it or they'll simply assume it was low and note this without ever showing you the note.

  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    I was yapping too much and left out facts.

    Yes, it was a bolt that actually fastens the pan to the car (not the drain bolt). There are about a dozen or more that hold the pan on.
    I had tranny service done at the 60K and I can see the sealant is new.
    I'm not sure if was over-torqued or it was just old and rusty and snapped. I'll have a closer look at it.

    Btw, I did add a couple of quarts of ATF as a precaution. Thanks for the tips!

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    It's always been immediate, and I do a drain, refill, filter and new seal every other year with a specialty shop. Never had a bolt break either.
  • The purpose fo the dual stage booster is to allow a consistant pedal pressure on the brake; no matter how hard you press on the brake, the pressure remains the same. For more performance oriented driving (where control of the brake is important), people switch a single stage booster into the car. I drove one and you can really feel the difference.

    As for my own gripes, I wish the cars had thicker paint, 205-50-16 tires instead of 55, and that there had been a WRX in the previous body style (yes, I own a 2000 2.5RS) since the rest of the world had one.

    On the other hand, the new Impreza front end (at the Paris show today) end looks much nicer to me, and it will get to the US eventually. Who knows, by then we may even have an STI available.
  • Nice juice. Been watching things develop on rexilla.

    So 2 questions:

    1. Any pictures of the revised wagon?

    2. When does it get to the US!?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Check out the WRX topics, I did see the wagon. The front looked the same, minus the fender flares, but the rear is different. There is a subtle round light that protrudes beyond the bottom of the taillight. On the sedan it's subtle, on the wagon it's more visible.

  • jfljfl Posts: 1,335
    That bolt is not in a high stress location. It could've easily (and safely) been installed with a nut driver. I wouldn't expect the threads to be rusty, at most the bolt head might rust and I think even that's unlikely.

    Someone must have used an awfully big wrench to break it.

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