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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • poodog13poodog13 Member Posts: 320
    I had a headlight go on my 05 LGT with 18k two days ago. Replaced with a set of Sylvania silverstars. Rob M.

    Were the Silverstars worth the extra cash?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Our 2002 still has all the original bulbs, knock on wood.

    Even my '98 does.

    -juice
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    Yes. Much cleaner, whiter lighting. I had them on my 99 Legacy also, and could see a significant difference.

    I will be replacing the fog light bulbs with Silverstars this weekend. Rob M.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    juice, do you run your lights during the day? Just curious as to how this might affect lifespan. On mine, if the car is running, so are the lights. My parents' '85 and '92 Camrys were the same way, but their bulbs usually lasted 4-5 years between replacements.... :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No, unless it's raining. I don't have DRLs on my '98, but my wife's '02 does.

    -juice
  • mark04mark04 Member Posts: 7
    I took my 04 Forester in for a routine oil change and tire rotation (at an independent shop, not Subaru). On the way home from work that night my oil pressure warning light started flickering. After about a minute, it came on and stayed on.

    I was on the interstate and it was night time.... I was too scared to stop there. I drove about 2 miles to the nearest exit, got off and pulled immediately into a parking lot and turned the car off. Some smoke started coming out from under the hood. I checked the oil level and I couldn't see much on the dipstick.

    I got the shop's promise in writing that they would pay for any needed repairs that result from this, and also kept the filter, which had a damaged gasket. But I know you can't always tell right away if damage has occurred in the engine. They told me that the fact that I stopped the car before I heard any noise coming from the engine was a positive sign.

    Everything seems to be running okay two weeks later, but I'm still nervous. What do you all think?
  • shan_jarvisshan_jarvis Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I have a 2000 Outback Sedan, and I've had some major repairs on it. At 66k, my head gasket cracked, repaired it at $2200. About 2 months later, the recall came out, they reimbursed me $1600. Now at 109k, by head gasket cracked AGAIN! They wanted $2200 to fix it, and I negotiated SOA covering 50% of the cost. I have been the only owner of this car, and have maintained it perfectly...All scheduled maintenance done on time. I have also done brakes, timing belt, oxygen sensor, and some grinding done (on routers, I think).I have a few questions:
    1. Have you heard of the head gasket going out again on these recalls?
    2. How long can I expect to drive this car without having more major problems?
    3. If this was yours would you dump it?
    I had hoped to drive this car for a long time....but maybe's its life is over. Thanks for your advice.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Like the shop said, the fact that you stopped the car before you heard any noise (such as pronounced ticking) coming from the engine is a positive sign. The oil pressure indicator usually does not come on unless the oil is REALLY low, so you must have been more than 2 quarts down at that point. The smoke was no big deal - just oil burning off the exhaust (but it might linger for a while!).

    I had a really nasty oil leak on my '96 OBW for a while and it progressed to the point where I was putting in more than 2 quarts with every fueling. I replaced the necessary gaskets/seals at 144K and I am at 202K now. Any time the car dropped lower than 2 quarts down (how quickly it would do this seemed to vary a lot based on ambient temps), I would notice a distinct ticking noise of the camshafts/lifters and that was my "warning" that I needed to fill up again *right now*.

    Now, just a few weeks ago, the main crank seal blew and dumped basically all the oil in the engine. My wife caught it quickly and stopped the car. I repaired it and it started up well, but now it makes more of a persistent clicking sound that I think is some degree of damage from the incident. When the seal blew was the first time I have ever seen the oil pressure light come on with the engine running (and, like I said, I have been more than two quarts down before!).

    In summation, I do not think you have anything about which to worry. However, watch it like a hawk and if any unusual (based on your experience) sounds develop within the engine then make sure it is documented/inspected. I have to wonder if that shop installed the oil filter without lubing the seal first... ?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I have to think it is very odd for the gaskets to go twice.... did they replace both of the HGs the first time around, or just one and now this is the other one? $2200 quote sounds to me like both, but you never know.....

    Assuming no other problems with the vehicle, I think the repair is worth the expense. You'll likely not have any major repairs for at least another 50K (I'd hope for more!), and $1100 is well worth a 50K return. In the end it really depends on whether you are happy with the vehicle in every other respect.

    The cost/benefit needs to be weighed in your terms, not mine!

    When did the first repair take place? Since it was before the related TSB, I wonder if the gaskets used during that repair were still of the "old variety." They are supposedly more reliable now.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • coreysdcoreysd Member Posts: 2
    I am having a handling problem with my 05 xt wagon. 20k miles and original tires. the car sways back and forth as soon as it gets on ice and stops immediately when the road turns wet or dry. you can feel it gain traction when you hit non-ice surface. it is a very dangerous problem as the car is actually sliding as it sways. it is noticable at around 40mph. I am not so sure this is a tire problem as i have heard of others having the same problem with new and snow tires. I have owned another outback and had no problems. ideas??
  • tkguy1tkguy1 Member Posts: 1
    My 1995 Subaru Legacy (140K miles)is stalling when stopped. Also, the ride is getting very jerky at times. It starts fine. I had the car tuned (spark plugs replaced), replaced temperature sensor and the fuel filter. The mechanic can not find anything wrong. The problem seems to be getting worse. What could be wrong?
  • iracibleiracible Member Posts: 4
    Automatic transmission or manual? Only thing I can think of is some action of the 'active' control in the center differential. (auto trans version)

    You're driving 40 MPH on ice with stock tires??? You're certainly braver than I am.
  • coreysdcoreysd Member Posts: 2
    It is a manual transmission. 40 mph on a straight road should be no problem, but with the car "behaving" as it is, i am not that brave either.
    Again, thanks for any ideas. I will be taking it to the dealer in the next couple weeks, but considering that they wont be able to re-create the problem, i want all all the ideas i can get.
    Corey
  • mark04mark04 Member Posts: 7
    And the ticking is something that I definitely would have noticed? An obvious sound?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think if you did not put a heavy load on the engine, and stopped it early enough, no harm done. Every time you start the engine it takes 7 seconds to establish oil pressure, FWIW, so there are many times when this happens.

    Gaskets - were the heads warped the first time around? My guess is no, since the 2nd set lasted a lot of miles.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    The ticking is quite obvious. Not loud, necessarily (like piston slap) but pronounced. I usually get a "tick" (especially during winter months) for the first few seconds (as juice said, oil pressurizing) but then it goes away. This new tick lasts a fair bit longer (a good minute or more, but have not timed it to tell for certain).

    Sounds to me like you have nothing to worry about, but certainly pay close attention and document for the next 3 months or 1000 miles minimum. If there was immediate damage, it should manifest itself quickly.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Curious that it is that bad. My '96 (automatic) will often show similar symptoms, especially when driving on extremely slick ice or springtime ice (snowpack w/ thin meltwater on surface). I typically drive 45-60 on it and while there is that "wiggliness" of the AWD system correcting itself, I have not noticed it to cause instability and braking/handling still works just fine. Tires do not seem to affect its tendency to occur (though inconsistent tire diameters make it prounouncedly worse!), but the tire type does affect how fast I am willing to drive on such surfaces.... ;)

    This is the only Subaru I've owned, so I consider it normal. But, if you have owned others without getting this feeling or if it is really causing vehicular instability, then definitely get it checked out. Why do you not feel the dealer could replicate it? Are roads not slick around where the dealership is located?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I just picked up on something Wes said, so figured I would 'repackage' the message in case it was not clear (and in the interest of being an all around nice guy) ;) . Make sure that the tire pressures are as per the sticker. Uneven pressure will give the same effect as tires of different sizes, and will drive the AWD system nuts trying to correct for the perceived variation in rotational velocity. On dry roads this will shorten the life of the friction plates. I would imagine that on slippery roads it could cause the twitchiness you feel as tires make and break traction as the system shifts torque.

    Steve
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    '98 Outback; '99 Outback Sports; '03 WRX Wagon; and '05 RS Wagon... they all would lateral.

    It's pretty normal.

    Oh, roads aren't flat. The crown causes the swaying too :)

    -Dave
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Spot on Steve! Timing belt was off two notches. Problem fixed.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    man, that is bad.

    Unless it "jumped" on them, it is an absolute no brainer to check the alignment marks before re-assemble.

    No kudos for your shop.

    John
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Not my shop! Local dealer here in Portland. This was a co-workers car getting a head gasket warranty repair. I've got my own independent I trust.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Hey, two for two this week! Thanks for the reply.

    Steve
  • iracibleiracible Member Posts: 4
    The only complaint I have about my '06 Outback Sport so far is the performance of the cruise control.

    On flat land everything is OK... throw in some mild rolling hills (no challenge for the engine) and I get pulled down 5 mph going uphill... and overshoot 5 mph going downhill.

    My other vehicles maintain very stable speeds on the same routes.

    Is this 'normal' for the Subie cruise or is this something that will benefit from some adjustment?
  • plonkerplonker Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2001 Outback with a mysterious overheating problem. It only
    occurs at high speeds, especially going uphill (I've been forced down to
    speeds of 30mph or so to keep the dial out of the red). Sometimes I
    smell coolant, sometimes not. I've checked for coolant leaks a couple
    of times and not found any. I've replaced the thermostat for the cooling
    fan to no avail. Any ideas?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    plonker,

    there's a lot of load on your engine when ascending hills. high load leading to overheating is often a headgasket issue, but there could be other causes.

    I hope you're under 100k miles-- you would probably be covered under the extended warranty program. have a dealer check it out.

    ~Colin
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Generally high speed overheats (as opposed to overheating at idling) indicates a coolant circulation problem...not a fan problem...could be a clogged radiator, or indeed a head gasket issue.

    Time for a cooling system pressure test and/or a radiator flow test.
  • plonkerplonker Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Colin,

    Mileage is only 40000.

    It seems like coolant is getting out through the radiator cap. Is it
    possible that a defective cap is the problem? As I said, I get overheating
    under high loads, eg going up hills, but things cool down almost
    immediately after I get to the top and start going back down.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    A defective cap is possible, yes, but they are designed to keep the coolant system pressurized only slightly-- 1.1 to 1.2 atmospheres is typical. More than that will blow past the cap and fill the overflow tank, which usually happens when combustion gasses get into the coolant. That's only possible when there is a headgasket issue (or a cracked head / block, but that's rare).

    ~Colin
  • damish003damish003 Member Posts: 303
    I've got an 04 Outback Sport and an 05 RS wagon, and the cruise works perfectly fine on both. No drop going up, no speed-up going down. Sounds to me like your cruise needs tweaked.

    -Dan-
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I hope I'm wrong but if you are getting coolant blowing into the overflow tank under the conditions you described it sounds like exhaust gases getting past the headgasket into the coolant.

    I've been there. :cry:

    Jim
  • scirocco22scirocco22 Member Posts: 721
    I've spent over an hour searching the forums about the dreaded piston slap and really didn't find the specific answers I was looking for.

    I have a 2002 Forester and have the "piston slap when cold" problem. I'm planning on selling the car to a neighbor. I'm also considering getting a new Forester.

    The first problem is I don't want to sell the car to a friend when it makes that kind of racket during that first 15 minutes it takes until the engine warms.

    Question 1: Approximately how much would it cost to repair this piston slap problem? ...ballpark figures gladly accepted. I've gathered there are two possible solutions. Replace 2 of 4 pistons or go the short block route.

    Question 2: Is the piston slap situation still a problem on the 2006 models? I don't really want to have this happen again.

    This piston slap problem just happens randomly to Subaru engines? There will be some that never develop the problem?

    Thank you in advance for any answers!

    --'rocco
  • jmederjmeder Member Posts: 1
    My youngest son put a penny in my tape deck and now the audio no longer works. How do I remove the radio so I can extract the penny. Oh I checked the fuse for the radio and audio and it is not shorted out.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can't replace the pistons without boring out the cylinders. A short block is the only way to fix piston slap...or you can put in heavy oil, some additives and just drive it...they can run a long time with piston slap.

    The problem is not only that there is too much clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall, but also that the cylinder wall has probably become oblong (bulged in the middle)...it's not only theh piston that wears (collapses, basically) but also the cylinder wall.

    It's probably a metallurgic defect that comes up in the production process and not all engines will necessarily be affected.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    'rocco,

    In an attempt to reduce mass, many mfgrs have trimmed the piston skirt, the part that extends down below the wrist pin. One down side is that the shortened piston can develop some lateral motion within the bore, a kind of vibration that gives that tick/rattle sound. Once everything expands to full diameter, it goes away and the piston moves more smoothly. Subaru is not the only one with this issue, and that has been documented by other sources as well. And of course not all Subi engines do this. A thousandth of an inch here, a thousandth there, and the conditions are just right for this resonance. Mine does it for a full 15 minutes on zero degree days, a minute or two at 30'F, almost none on a warm start.

    A few members of this board have pushed SOA to do something in cases were their rattle would not go away or was to the extreme. IIRC, Mark and others (?) got pistons 2 & 4 replaced with slightly oversized units. There may also have been a longer skirt part number that was available at one time as well. If you are under the 5yr/60k warranty, I encourage you to push your dealer for an answer.

    I am not sure that any cylinder honing was needed at the time. I seem to remember that those that saw the walls and pistons said that there was little or no visible wear pattern. I have also not heard anyone complain of a loss of compression or increased oil consumption associated with this - just noise. You would think that if there was scoring occuring, compression and oil consumption issues would be telltale signs. Same with oil analysis. A few members did this, and reported that aluminum was up, but not significantly.

    While I was also concerned, and visited my dealer when my car was younger, I'm pretty convinced that this is more "cosmetic" than a functional problem. I'm sure that the rest of the crew will jump in here if my memory of details is false (or I'm 'fibbin)!!

    Steve
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sure okay if there's a known issue with the piston manufacture, that could explain it....for whatever reason, the piston is wobbling around in there...too much clearance. Never heard of a slightly oversized piston though...maybe what they do is knurl a standard piston to plumb it up a bit.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Joe,

    I need one of the half dozen or so members who have had it done to jump in with further details. I understand that there is a distinct P/N for the replacement piston assembly.

    Steve
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I can't address that, but I can tell you that I had my shortblock replaced under warranty on my 98 OB. Within a year the piston slap started to return. Mine only did it when the engine was cold. It disappeared as the engine warmed up. The replacement block was the same way.

    I think I ended up with a second short block that had the same tolerance issue as the first. I never determined if Subaru finally addressed it in the short blocks they were sending out, or if it was just the luck of the draw.

    I think I would personally go with the piston replacement if I had to do it over again.

    Karl
  • prof_ofwhatprof_ofwhat Member Posts: 6
    Hope this is the right forum. If not, a drop-kick in the correct direction would be appreciated.

    My son has a 1988 GL Hatchback. We have recently discovered that when he turns the ignition off and takes the key out, power remains on to the dashboard and accessories.

    I'm wondering if there might be a relay somewhere sticking on, or if the only solution is replace the ignition switch?

    Thanks for all replies.
    Ed
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I've heard of this problem. As I recall the replacement pistons aren't "oversize", just have longer skirts...

    here's a discussion of the issue: (hope this is helpful)

    http://resnet.uoregon.edu/~dwhite/pages/subnoises.html

    Personally, it sounds like a dubious solution. If I were going through all the trouble of busting down an engine, I'd just do it right....Subaru doesn't want to spring for a short block so they give you this alternative, but really now......
  • cathmaccathmac Member Posts: 49
    Shifty has already given you a link to a discussion on this issue. I found the information there helpful when I was fighting with my dealer on this issue about 3 years ago. There are one or two dead links in this discussion that led me to an old online chat Q&A where an engineer in the business of rebuilding Subaru engines (I think the name of his company is/was CCR engines) offered the opinion that piston slap might reduce the longevity of the engine by 10%.

    One of these dead links is to a sight called the "Ultimate Subaru Message Board", you might be able to do a key word search and find this missing chat thread if you become a member.

    Armed with this information I successfully insisted on a short engine block replacement in the Spring of 2003 when I had this problem on my 1997 OB Sport. This was covered under the 6 year / 60K Subaru "Assurance Plan". The short block alone, excluding labor, was about $1,350.00

    I was pretty adamant because I bought this car with the intention of driving it into the ground and I wasn't going to accept a 10% reduction in the life of the engine which represents a year of use. If you are planning on selling the car arguably it is a known defect you need to disclose and this reduces the market value of the car.

    Good luck. I'm curious to know what you wind up doing.
    ~Cath
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    I just noticed my cooling system is acting weird. When cold, the upper radiator hose is collapsed. If I open the radiator cap it looks like I need to add more coolant. I add more coolant and close the cap.

    I drive around for a little while and find out the extra I put in is now in the overflow tank. Shouldn't the coolant flow out of the radiator and into the reservoir when hot and flow the other way when cold? Maybe the hole at the top is plugged up--is it a valve or just a hole?

    Thanks

    Eric
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    There is alot bad information regarding the piston slap problem. Here are the facts of my experience.
    My 2003 Legacy developed the piston slap when the weather started turning cold (below 30 degrees F). If the ambient temperature was above 30 degrees, no slap. Under 30 degrees, it took at least 10 minutes before the noise went away.
    I brought the car in to my local Subaru Service shop along with printouts from some of the Edmunds posts proving it was a common problem. With no arguments, my dealer replaced two pistons under warranty. The engine had to be removed, the crankcase split, and two pistons replaced. The replacement pistons looked very similar to the originals. No machine work (honing or boring) was required.
    When the re-assembly and re installation was completed there was no more piston slap. (But there was a vibration I could feel through the accelerator pedal - as if the cable was misrouted and rubbing against the engine).
    The service department was not able to fix the vibration, so I traded the 2003 in on a 2005 Legacy Sedan. The new Legacy had no piston slap problem at any temperature. I have driven a 2005 Outback in cold weather. It had no piston slap noise. So maybe Subaru has fixed the problem permanently.
    I know many people with GM autos with a 3.1 litre V6 engine who have driven the slapping engines for 100,000 + with no failures related to the piston slap. So, I don't think it affects longevity.
    Bottom line, the piston slap sounds cheap, but probably won't hurt longevity.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Eric,

    You've got it right. The cap has two seals and a little poppet valve. The bottom seal is spring loaded, and when the radiator pressure reaches about 1 atm above (around 15 psi) coolant flows past the lower seal. Blocked by the upper seal, it flows out thru the little hole, down the tube and into the tank. When the temp drops in the radiator, it creates a vacuum. This opens the poppet valve, and fluid should be sucked back up the tube from the tank, and down to refill the radiator.

    If the uppper hose is collapsing, it indicates that it cannot pull fluid back in. Either the poppet has somehow welded/jammed shut, or more likely sludge in the overflow tank is clogging the tube, and the vacuum cannot draw it up. The outflow pressure far exceed the force of the draw vacuum, so the action can become "one way". Pull off the hose, remove the bottle, and flush everything clean. If this does not fix it, you might need a new cap.

    Steve
  • scirocco22scirocco22 Member Posts: 721
    Thank you all so much for the information so far! It answers some of my questions.

    Like I say, I'm going to be trying to sell the car and it really sounds awful with that clattering for the first 15 minutes after startup. I know I wouldn't buy a used car with that kind of racket going on. No amount of convincing coming from the seller that it doesn't effect longevity or the sound it perfectly "normal" according to Subaru would prompt me to buy such a car.

    Now, can anybody address my second question? Are there any reports of this identical problem happening on the MY2006 engines? I like Subarus and would consider buying another one but maybe not if this problems still exists on their new cars. Has anyone heard of piston slap or any loud racket going on when the engine is cold on the new 2006 vehicles?

    TIA!

    --'rocco
  • cathmaccathmac Member Posts: 49
    Rocco,
    In the process of buying a 2005 Legacy OB I asked the mechanic that did the pre-purchase inspection about the dreaded piston slap. I forget the exact details of his explanation but essentially it is the same one that a previous poster gave you: the condition does still exist in all current model lines (but not in all cars). If an individual car developes the condition it is the degree --or severity-- that determines whether it is a "problem" or not.

    In layman's terms if you think of piston slap as a kind of year round "cold weather start" then a couple of minutes or so of that kind of start while the vehicle is "warming up" probably isn't a big deal. The 15 minutes or so you describe is obviously a problem.

    You take your chances when you buy any vehicle. Even though I have had the problem in the past (with my 1997 OB Sport) and even though the pre-purchase inspection doesn't rule out the problem developing over a period of years (as it did with the OB Sport) I still went ahead with the purchase of the 2005 Legacy OB. However, given the amount of warranty work my OB Sport required I would never buy another Subaru without getting the Mfr's extended warranty. This time around I got the 7 year / 100K, $0.00 Ded, Gold Plus "Subaru Assurance Plan". (I paid about 45% off of MSRP, only because the dealer beat the 40% discount I found elsewhere).

    I am pretty confident that if I do the service necessary to maintain the warranty and consistently go to the same dealer so they have the perception that I take good care of the vehicle that ultimately the dealership &/or Subaru of America will take care of any problems. This was my experience with the OB Sport. As I mentioned in a previous post, I got a $1,350.00 short engine block replacement (excluding labor) about 4 months or so before my 6 yr / 60K warranty ran out. That was back in the Spring of 2003.

    Let me know if you would like the details on where to get a good deal on a Subaru warranty. Also, according to another Subaru owner on a different board (Prices Paid and Buying Experience) you may also be entitled to a $200.00 loyalty rebate on the warranty. I haven't looked into that for myself yet.

    Good Luck,
    ~Cath
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Ok thanks steve will try to get all the junk out of it I can this weekend. :D

    thanks

    eric
  • cathmaccathmac Member Posts: 49
    Rocco,
    This is a follow up to my most recent post. Try checking out this board / link:

    Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons - Problems & Solutions
    ateixeira, "Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons - Problems & Solutions" #5901, 2 Mar 2006 10:57 am
    Post #s: 5931 & 5932

    If one of these posts is accurate then piston slap is a relatively rare problem, which makes me feel better about my purchase.
    ~Cath
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    And FWIW I personally have not heard of a single piston slap issue on the H6 engine, only the H4's.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I had piston slap on my 98 Forester and I had the pistons replaced under warranty. In my case, the noise did not go away completely after warm up.

    When I had my pistons replaced, the district tech manager told me that the replacement pistons had longer skirts to stabilize piston travel. However, that was back in 98 when Subaru had just switched to "skirtless" pistons in an effort to maximize engine output. The repair completely fixed the noise.

    Even then, it was not a common occurence. I also believe that Subaru did add more of a "skirt" in subsequent years so I would imagine that Phase II (introduced in MY99) and later engines would have a lower tendency to exhibit this behavior.

    Ken
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