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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    Welcome back. Actually, you're lucky as the boards have not been that active recently.

    1) The 2000 Legacy/Outback Service manual (volume 1)states that the auto transmission filter is a zero maintenance part. It only needs to be replaced if damaged.

    2) No mention of bleeding the cooling system I'll re-read the section and see what else I can find out. I recall that it does mention warming-up the engine and adding more coolant after it cools. Think the thermostat replacement is in a different volume...which I didn't buy.

    5) I agree. That's the same location as the manual gearbox dipstick. The first time I looked, I didn't see anything yellow at all.

    Jim
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    I don't know about the OB's, but Subaru/FHI has addressed the issue on the new Impreza's.

    I was shocked when I saw that the dipstick was in easy reach, above all of the wiring and hoses.

    -Dennis
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    For the fluid, my factory manual on the SVX says to run the car with the heat on for 5 min @ 3K RPMS, let it cool and top it off. The Thermostat on the SVX is also on the engine side of the lower rad. hose. The upper hose disappears under the intake manifold.

    -mike
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    The EJ25 phase II thermostat is located on the engine side of the lower radiator hose.

    How do I know ? I replaced the thermostat housing cover on my '01 Forester MT when I installed the OEM engine oil cooler. The engine oil cooler is standard on Foresters with AT, but not on MT models. Not sure about the OBS.

    With the oil cooler, there's a hose coupling leading off of the thermostat housing cover that connects to a metal tube running across the front of the engine, parallel to the radiator. This is connected to a heat exchanger mounted between the block and the oil filter. The other side of the heat exchanger is connected to the engine block drain on the passenger side of the vehicle.

    You might want to see if you've got one of these. If not, it's a great mod for moderate dollars. I got mine from Teague's in NC. About 30-45 minutes for peace of mind, especially if you drive enthusiastically or tow. You don't even need to lift the vehicle (at least not on the Forester).

    -brianV
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    The Service Manual is wrong, it's not 4.2 qts. The MT takes 3.7 qts of gear oil as the Owner's Manual states.

    Fortunately, pumping it out wasn't that hard.

    Jim
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Ok, since my OB is totalled, and I've still got a year and a half/34k miles left on it. Y'all think I could get a refund on it?

    -Dave
  • Hello, we bought a six cylinder Outback a few months ago and my husband has to add water to the car every time our daughter returns home from school. The dealer has checked it out, tested the cap? and says nothing is wrong. As winter is coming we are getting nervous, don't want her to get stranded on the side of the road somewhere, suggestions or information would be greatly apprecaited.
    Bee
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I think you can always get your money back if you haven't actually used it yet.
  • I have a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport. On a rainy day after I left work and had driven about6 miles I came to an intersection when the traffic light turned yellow. I applied the brakes normal not hard and the ABS went into action and locked. My speed was about 30 mph when approaching. The car lurched into the intersection in several separate jumps. I was afraid it wouldn't stop at all. I drive through that intersection all the time nothing ever happened before. The brakes reacted the same again after 56 more miles on the interstate and about 8 more miles in to town at another red light. This time I almost jumped into the car in front of me. I was on my way to the dealer for an oil change. When I described what happened he told me that's normal for ABS brakes. I hope that's not true. Any suggestions?
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Bee,

    You didn't note the car's year or mileage? Also, if winter's coming and your husband is continuously adding plain water to a cooling system then your antifreeze (what SHOULD be added) may be insufficient to prevent freezing the engine. Clarify that with him. You also don't note how MUCH water is being added?

    On the braking thing, I suspect you are having your first ABS brake experiences here? If you are unfamiliar with ABS braking feel, you should go into a large empty parking lot on a rainy day and get a feel for how they work and feel. Your comment that the car is "lurching" forward indicates that you are actually saying the car accelerates forward with your foot on the brake ("almost jumped into the car in front of me..."). Either you don't mean to say that, or you really need to get familiar with the feel of ABS brakes. My feeling on it is that you were not aware of just how slick it happened to be that rainy day and that without the ABS brakes you might have locked your brakes and spun while applying what you thought was safe braking on unexpectedly slick pavement.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    you get that $ back. Just contact them about it.

    -mike
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 843
    "But the only time I've seriously noticed it is late-fall to winter. Combustion is lower when heat is lower. Remember last summer when firefighters would pray for colder weather to keep flames down? Same thing"

    And I thought that internal combustion engine increases efficiency with lower temperature.

    I thought that firefighters were praying for wet weather, temperature is not as important as humidity during fires.

    Krzys

    PS Theory about winter/summer fuel sounds very probable.
  • I have a 1998 Right-hand drive Legacy Postal Wagon. I go through alot of brakes. But I do not understand the sounds they make. I used to put on new ones and they were fine until they were hot. They would make some noise but I could understand that. Now I just had front, back and new drums replaced. After about an hour into my route I hear a high pitched whistling noise only when I am moving. Then close to the end of my route I hear grinding noises until I can get moving a little faster. When I start out in the morning they are fine. It is really irritating. Of course the mechanic thinks I am not hearing it. I have owned the car since it was new. Just once I would like to drive a car that does not have any brake noise! Anyone know why I am hearing this?
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    ABS engagement can be unnerving sometimes so it's a great idea to pratice using it in a safe and empty lot. Basically, you need to stay on the brakes for ABS to do it's job. Under most conditions, ABS will stop you sooner than locking your brakes, but the most important thing about ABS is that it lets you steer out of harms way.

    One other thing you might want to check is your tire tread. ABS kicking in when stopping at an intersection sounds a little unusal to me.

    Ken
  • HELP!!! I purchased a used Legacy (all time four wheel drive, standard trans.),and shortly there the rear differential got smoking hot and was howling. It had not been leaking prior to this. So I found a used one and checked it for filings and put in new gear oil and a couple hundred miles later it is doing the same thing. After 20 or 30 minutes of sustained speeds of 60 to 70 mph it gets to hot to touch and is smoking. It does not seem to do this during slower stop and go driving. Tires are all the same size though the rears have a bit more wear than the fronts.
    Car does not "hop" when turning sharply. Tranny does have some noise but not bad. Any help or advice????? thanks, Travis
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    I drive a virtually identical '97 (though I sit on the correct side - heh) and have a couple ideas. First though, do a better job describing the sounds and when they occur. Also, what does your route consist of - rural roads with sand/gravel shoulder, or do you have a route in a suburb, etc? You know where I'm going with that, of course.

    Back to the noises. Do you hear them only when applying the brakes? Also, the whistle - at what speed do you hear it, and again only when applying the brakes or all the time? Since you've had it since new, has it always done this? How many miles on the car? Basically, part with some more info and I'll give you my pet theories and a simple way to diagnose it.

    IdahoDoug
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My dad has a '97 legacy L w/4wheel discs and he has similar noises. No idea why and the brakes themselves are fine. He's had that for a few years now.

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Are you using OEM brakes? The brakes on my 97 OBS were noisy since the day I got the car. It was a very loud grinding type sound. Almost sounded like metal on metal. Had them cleaned a few times by the dealer and it helped a little.

    The noise was so loud that when my pads wore down, I could not hear the worn brake indicators.
    I went with Meineke pads which were quiet but caused other problems (like warped rotors - they could've been over-torqued though).

    -Dennis
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    in all the years I had my OBS, the only time I ever activated my ABS was on snow or ice - is it possible that the road was freezing? Also, as others have said, if this is the first time you have ever had ABS, it does take a little getting used to.

    bwilliams7 - your outback cannot be very old if it has the 6-cyl...you need to find out where the water is going...if something is leaking like the water pump, there will be a stain on the engine cover, and even a puddle on the ground? Are you adding water to the expansion tank (the little plastic tank attached to the radiator?)? If you are adding too much, it may be overflowing out of there and making you think it is leaking.

    Of course, if there are no leaks ANYWHERE and you are not overfilling it, then the only other possibility is some type of head gasket defect, which will be repaired under warranty, so in that case you should have it checked out by the dealer. But look for leaky hoses and water pump first. Don't forget to check the heater hoses back near the firewall.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147
    Has anyone tried the Motive Products Power Bleeder or any similar product(s)? It sure looks as if it would make flushing the brake lines of the old fluid a snap.

    Alan
    98 OB Ltd
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