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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    is exactly what I am experiencing. As soon as the engine comes up to temp, I have no further problems. I try to ignore it & feather the gas to get around it, but it is annoying, and seems to be on the increase.

    The odd thing is that I would not expect a cool engine to be suffering from pre-ignition (ping / light knock). Fuel instability usually only comes into play on hot engines, so I wonder what the knock sensor is really hearing when it fiddles with the timing?

    Steve
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Me too! I've had it from day one in my 2001 OB. I've noticed a fuel treatment sometimes helps. Its so unpredicatable for me. Only happens from a dead stop mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes when warm.

    --Jay
  • I love the car but as all mechanical machines and devices with moving parts are concerned, I have some minor flaws that I am curious about.
    Recently I had a set of front brake pads installed and the mechanic says that in city traffic it is not unusual for this to take place after 20,000 miles, but he also told me that the Subie 2002 WRX wagon doesn't really need any upgrade to the factory braking system. I had suggested Brembo 4 pot system like the one they have on the STI high performance car. Does the quality of the brake pad help with the duration between service or just stopping power? I drive the car somewhat aggressively but not crazy. I like to test it's sportiness every once and awhile, and also commute to work about 50 miles a day 25 miles each way.

    BTW, my Honda Accord had horrible braking issues, and after 150,000 miles I was sinking more money than a new car payment would amount to each month. I think Toyota and Subaru are much more mechanic friendly than Honda. I also had electrical problems in the Honda. Well thats all for now I love my WRX!
  • rangnerrangner Posts: 336
    Hey all,

    I've been having some problems with my 2000 OB breather coming loose and causing noise. I took it to the dealer last and they tightened it down, but it's come loose again and I'd rather do it myself than pay them again. Does anybody know where the breather is, or how I might do it?
    Thanks
    Eric
  • I have 22500 miles on my stock brake pads (02 WRX), and still going strong. I brake fairly hard when needed too, but I could certainly see them wearing faster if you have a lot of heavy traffic. Do you have an auto, that could make it worse too?

    If you do decide to go with 4-pot brakes, you'll need 17" wheels too, also Brembos are $$$..
  • rob999rob999 Posts: 233
    Eric: are you referring to the air cleaner box or inlet?

    Regardless, if you paid for a repair yesterday and it's noisy they should fix it for free. Most repairs are warranted.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For a year, I agree.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm still on my stock pads on my '98 Forester, and they've been quiet the whole time. Knock on wood.

    -juice
  • 44k on original pads and still performing just fine. 01 Legacy GT 5MT.

    bit
  • rangnerrangner Posts: 336
    I don't know. I got it repaired at the end of this past july (30th). I called the dealer and they're unclear as to whether they'll charge me for it or not. They just tell me to bring it in--which is for me a bit of a chore. It's about an hour drive to the dealer, so if its something simple I'd rather do it myself.
  • rob999rob999 Posts: 233
    Eric - By any chance, did you go to one of those 10-min oil change places recently?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I'm part way through the 30K service on my LL Bean (and only now remembered that I have coupons for a freebie -- doh!). What's left on the agenda is the coolant and brake fluid changes. So, I wonder if the crew can weigh in with some advice:

    What's the easiest way to drain and refill the coolant?

    What's the easiest way to drain and refill the brake fluid?

    I've done both in the past on previous cars, but know there must be some tricks that could make life easier.

    Also, anybody know what to do with the old coolant?

    Thanks,
    Craig
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,356
    Coolant - back onto your driveway, drain coolant by removing drain plug. (I'm told if you don't open the rad cap it will draw the coolant from the reservior. But I removed mine & cleaned it.) Flush rad w/ water. Refill w/ anti-freeze & water. Poured old coolant back into the container and into a 5 qt oil container.

    Be prepared to get wet. 8~)

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Recycle the old stuff, too. It has a sweet taste and can harm outdoor pets.

    -juice
  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147
    For flushing/refilling the brake system I use the Motive Products "Power Bleeder".

    In addition, I used the ATE Super Blue brake fluid which is rated pretty highly. Plus it is blue which is usefull for determining when the old fluid is all pushed out of the system. They also carry ATE Gold for when you want to flush out the SuperBlue.

    Bring the old brake fluid to a service station for recycling. Its less than a quart so they shouldn't have a problem taking it for you.

    Alan

    98 OBW Ltd
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I know this was dicusssed a while ago, but it was confusing. I am looking to change all the fluids under my '01 Legacy GT 5 spd. According to the dealer they do not have and/or recommend any specific synthetic gear oil. I mentioned to him about the limited slip rear end and he said it will take the same synthetic gear oil as the gearbox/front end/transfer case.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I believe it's 75w90, but I'll let someone else chime in.

    I have Mobil 1 75w90 in my Miata's rear diffy and in the tranny too. I chose it because I can source it locally, some synthetics are mail order only and I didn't like not having access to more if I needed it.

    -juice
  • joelbjoelb Posts: 16
    I have a 1999 Subaru Forester S with manual transmission. After I drive for about a 1/2 hour the front wheels feel like they are locking up together. I can only notice it when I turn the wheels (i.e. pulling into a parking space).

    What does this sound like?
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    but I was wondring do I need different type of oil for the rear (limited slip) end, I know it is 75w90
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Mobil 1 only sells one variety, I believe, so for me it was easy.

    I think Redline has a couple of varieties, but I'll let someone with experience with those products chime in.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That is not good. I'd stop driving it now regardless.

    My first guess is the wheel bearings are shot.

    I was thinking front differential, but it's not limited-slip, so I dunno.

    Make sure all 4 tires are the same size, and the pressures are equal. It's also possible that the center differential is seeing the front axle turn quicker or slower than the rear, and it's locking up.

    Could be other things, I'll let others chime in with possibilities.

    Seriously though, figure this out before you drive another inch.

    -juice
  • joelbjoelb Posts: 16
    I have a 1999 Subaru Forester S with manual transmission. After I drive for about a 1/2 hour the front wheels feel like they are locking up together. I can only notice it when I turn the wheels (i.e. pulling into a parking space).

    What does this sound like?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Either one will work, make sure it's GL5 not GL4. The LSD units in our vehicles (except the STi) is closed unit, so you don't need the friction modifiers. I just picked up a bunch of Mobil 1 for our 30K services this weekend (about 8 or 9 of them)

    -mike
  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    I just did Mobil1 75W90 in front and rear diffy. So far so good. If you're gonna use Redline, I believe you should stay with the regular, and not the "NS" version. I used the M1 because it's readily available.

    Jon
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    56k on the original pads on my 01 Forester and still going strong. However, driving style does make a noticable difference on pad life so if you like to "test the sportiness" on a regualr basis, you can expect to replace them more often. Also, a good rule of thumb is that the more "high performance" a vehicle is, the shorter the life expectancy of brake pads and tires. Which also answers your question that quality increases stopping performance.

    -Frank P.
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,356
    recommends NS for trannys and regular for diffys. The NS doesn't have friction modifiers so there's a bit more friction to help the synchros work better.

    Jim
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,356
    Subaru recommends a pattern different from most. (Old school was farthest from master cylinder to nearest.) Subie is FR > RL> FL> RR. This concept is primary reservoir first followed by secondary reservoir.

    Someday, I'm going to build a power bleeder to make this a one person process!

    Jim
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I think I will use Mobil 75W90 since it is readily available and will look out for the GL5 rating
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I think the general rule is distance from the proportion valve. So the proportion valve must be located in a different spot than the MC.

    -mike
  • GRRRRRRRR. I've had this car since March and absolutely love it, until Wednesday when the Check Engine light went on. BTW the car has 78,000 miles on it. I checked my manual and tightened the gas cap - the light stayed on. I drive mostly highway miles and really take good care not to drive crazy

    I went to a local independent Subaru repair shop and they got a code PO420 catalyst efficiency low bank #1 message. At that time they reset the light and recommended that I replace the catalytic converter and also the 02 sensors.

    I called the dealer where I purchased the car to ask about warranty. It covers 8 years and 80,000 miles on the catalytic converter. I drove it straight to the dealer. They said the catalytic converter tested out within normal range.

    So now I feel like I'm driving a time bomb which will of course go off at 80,001 miles. The check engine light has not returned of course.

    So - is there anyway for me to get this light to go on in the next 1500 miles or so, or does anyone know of a way to set the light on?

    Another question - has anyone experienced anything like this with their Subaru before?
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