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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the cord is probably for the 3rd brake light. they don't need it.

    ~Colin
  • subdriver1subdriver1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Subaru Forester, with 101,800 miles, automatic, AWD . It runs great until recently I notice it gets really warm inside the cabin when I'm driving. It gets worse especially when I have to make multiple stops while out running errands in town. It also happens when I've been driving for about 30-40 minutes on highway. The temperature gauge looks normal at mid range, never gets high or into the red zone. No steam ever comes out from radiator or under the hood. I do notice that the cooling fan is running when I pull into parking lot. I can hear it and think it might be on while I'm driving (as the engine gets hotter). I also notice my car seems to drink more gas than usual!!! Any ideas what's wrong with my car? Thanks in advance for all the suggestions.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might check for a clogged catalytic converter first off...if it is clogged it overheats and throws off tremendous heat. A muffler shop or regular Subaru shop can install a bypass pipe. Have you noticed a loss of power at all?

    If no power loss, then I'm probably wrong unless your exhaust system has shifted and is now too close to the floorboards (or perhaps a heat shield has fallen off?) and I guess next thing I'd check for is a sticking heater valve. If you feel no heat coming out of the vents with the heater off, then I'd check for engine overheating with a numerical heat gauge or radiator thermometer. Your gauge could be wrong.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Something is up with the cooling system. I'd have the radiator pressure tested, and maybe have the temp sensor looked at, too.

    Are you losing coolant? Look there first, that would be a "have it towed to your mechanic" type of problem - the dreaded head gasket leak.

    -juice
  • subdriver1subdriver1 Member Posts: 2
    When the engine is hot (after coming home from work), I notice the coolant level inside the coolant reservoir is very full, almost up to the top, but no sign of leaking coolant anywhere. When the engine is cold (early next morning), I open the radiator cap to check, coolant level looks normal. And the coolant level inside the reservoir goes down a little, but still way above the FULL mark.

    I had a complete radiator heating/cooling service done last October, with radiator pressure tested, flushed, hose, belt tensioner replaced, etc. Just had timing belt and water pump replaced a couple weeks ago.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sigh of relief.

    OK, that sounds normal. As it gets hot, the coolant expands in the radiator, and some of it travels to the overflow tank. Then it comes back when it cools. Perfectly normal.

    -juice
  • dankortedankorte Member Posts: 5
    Codes: P1443 Evaporative emission control system vent control function problem
    P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
    Year/Make/Model: 2001 Subaru Forester
    Mileage: 117,500 mostly highway miles
    Fix for problem: nothing yet.

    _________________________
    Hi, all. Need your advice on the above codes that have showed up on my Subie, according to the free diagnostic Advanced Auto Parts ran for me this morning. Here's the relevant background:

    For a few weeks now, i've noticed the Check Engine light come on --steady, never blinking--most noticeably after filling up my tank with gas. It'll stay on for several days and then when I fill up again or soon after, it will disappear for 30 miles or so. It usually clears on its own after 10 or so startups. But it's frustrating as hell and I don't know if I have a reason to worry or not. by the way, I don't smell anything unusual at all (someone on this forum with a P0420 reported a smell of rotten eggs). And I've noticed no performance reduction at all. Still averaging 27mpg!

    When I fill up with gas I try to make sure I screw the gas cap all the way on till it clicks 3 times. Admittedly I do top off, and I've read on this forum that that's not a good idea. I'll make that change immediately. My fluid levels are all okay, I checked that to rule out anything else (oil, washer, radiator).

    My questions to you:
    1. What does it tell you that these 2 codes appear together?
    2. What would you do next if you were me?

    Thanks very much for reading this far.

    Dan
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Dan, you probably have two problems. I'm not going to answer #1 because they are unrelated. :)

    P1443 is probably due to topping off, but if that doesn't solve it you should get a new gas cap. Some have had luck with various aftermarket ones, like a Stant locking cap for example, or you couldn't go wrong buying a new one from a dealer. Rarely does the evaporative canister itself go bad, but that is an outside shot. Try the cap first of course, since it's cheap.

    P0420 is usually a sign that the catalyst is wearing out or that you have an exhaust leak. Both are possible at your mileage, and I'd check for the exhaust leak yourself-- you will be able to hear a strange puffing noise down there if you have the car idling and listen beneath it. (Of course, use normal cautions when working under a car, such as blocking the wheels and jacking it appropriately with a jackstand if you need clearance.) There is a second oxygen sensor whose function is to generate this code and it doesn't typically affect driveability but it is annoying seeing that orange malfunction indicator light. If you don't find an exhaust leak, I'd price out a new catalyst and second oxygen sensor, then consider doing both. It should be cheaper than the primary o2 sensor because it is less sophisticated.

    ~Colin
  • dankortedankorte Member Posts: 5
    Colin, thank you very much for the insight and advice. I appreciate it. Are you sure the two error codes are unrelated, though? Doesn't it stand to reason that 1443 could actually cause the o2 sensor to kick out the 0420 code?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    nope, they are totally unrelated systems. your evaporative canister is a black plastic box near the gas tank. it has nothing to do with the second oxygen sensor that is checking catalyst efficiency.

    ~c
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Dan,

    According to my shop manual, P1443 (evaporative emission control system vent control function problem) deals mainly with the drain valve & filter attached to the canister, and associated hoses that route collected fuel between the collection canister, the filler tube, injector rails and the fuel tank.

    To begin with, I would stop fueling as soon as the pump kicks out. There are pickup points & returns on the filler tube itself, and you don't want liquid fuel sitting up against them. A small valving problem there could be flooding the canister, drain valve & filter. Maybe it will dry out and recover, maybe it is now damaged. Only time will tell.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Definitely stop topping off, ASAP.

    You can check the canister to see if any of the hoses are loose or leaking. It's a sealed system so any leak with trigger a check-engine light.

    Here's a photo of mine, when I was installing the hitch. On a Forester, it's on the passenger side rear, just in front of that tow hook.

    -juice
  • ladywclassladywclass Member Posts: 1,713
    at least for me ..

    I have a 2001 Outback base wagon with about79,000 miles on it .. recently the ABS light came on and then would go off at times ...

    I began to notice that the ABS light would come on when the lights were on, but when I turned the lights off, the ABS light would eventually go out. IF I turn the lights on, the ABS light comes on shortly afterward ..

    since this started, we have replaced the battery ... it still does this ..

    I also have since noticed, that when I drive with just DRL's, and put the brakes on, that the dash lights all 'dim' when I apply the brakes, and brighten again when I release the brakes. I never noticed this before, but then I usually just left the headlights on at all times.

    OK, it's been awhile since I've read this thread so if any of this is explained earlier I'm sorry ..

    Brenda
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    I presume the battery cables are free of corrosion since the battery has been replaced.......or are they?

    Also check both ends of the cables to be sure they are not loose.

    The symptoms suggest high resistance in either + or- common connections to the battery/ground.
  • jimmynutjimmynut Member Posts: 1
    Over the last week or so I've been hearing what sounds to be knocking coming from my rear passenger wheel well, but there is nothing wedged or obstructing the wheel. Then it started coming from the front drivers side wheel. A loud knocking sound, and as I shifted and accelerated it got louder and I could feel almost banging from under my feet.
    I hear the noises when the clutch is engaged or not engaged. On turns I hear it more prominent?

    Does this sound like a CV Boot issue?

    So, the knocking and banging is getting worse and I'm taking it in to be diagnosed- what would you guess this is.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Also have the alternator checked (accessory belt tension, too). Sounds like there's not enough electrical juice for all the accessories.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Tell us more - is it speed dependent? Does the pitch change as you speed up and slow down? Is it all the time or only over bumps?

    I suspect the wheel bearings, actually. Have them inspected soon.

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Brenda,

    One of the guys in this building occasionally drives his son's (either '00 or '01) OBW in, and told me he had pretty much what you describe. One day he suddenly lost power and had to have it towed. It turned out to be an intermittant alternator issue - probably with the built-in voltage regulator not adjusting output to changing loads.

    Steve
  • ladywclassladywclass Member Posts: 1,713
    thanks guys .. I, too, had figured it for an electrical problem, and wondered if it might be the alternator or the belt since I've had the battery replaced. It's really time to have the belt changed probably ...

    Thanks for the replies .. (makes me feel like a 'less dumb blonde' where it comes to my car!)
    Brenda
  • jax123jax123 Member Posts: 1
    OK, here's the situation. any help would be appreciated!!!
    1998 Subaru Forester, 108,000 mileage.
    Recently had upper radiator hose replaced due to crack.
    Then soon after had coolant system issue - gauge reading hot. Mechanic said faulty water pump, had it replaced, as well as timing belt & thermostat.
    Gauge continued to spike high, and coolant was disappearing. He added water, then added that Subaru conditioner for any leaks. Said to just let engine cool down and then add water to radiator if the gauge went high again.
    Tried a longer trip and it spiked, first just on uphills, then all the time. Opened hood, engine actually looks & feels fine, but added water to radiator. Reserve tank was full. Also - heater inside blowing cold air, no heat.
    Got on the road again and it spiked again. Stopped and started several times along down the highway. Everytime opened the hood, tho, the engine seems fine - not hot!
    Finally try adding coolant into radiator, not water, and gauge spikes initially, then very soon reads fine and stays fine the whole way home, hills and all. And heater now working, etc.
    Get home and open hood - engine seems fine, but reserve tank totally empty!!
    What is going on???
  • brend0brend0 Member Posts: 1
    I'm the proud owner of a 98 2.5 GT Limited I love it but on a recent trip i had some overheating issues. My engine coolant is being forced out of my radiator and into my reservoir. I had a block test and a pressure test done to see if it was the head gasket and it all came back negative. I had a new thermostate put in less then 6k miles ago. Any ideas on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks All. Brendon
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    I'm contemplating wiring my OB for towing a small utility trailer. Is there a connection point for a wiring harness somewhere, or is it a splice-and-dice proposition?

    Cheers!
    Paul
    (who hasn't forgotten this place, but kid's baseball is presently ruling my life!) :)
  • semebesemebe Member Posts: 1
    You have an internal leak in your head gaskets. The hot air from the engine gets into the coolant causing the temperature guage to spike. On the 1999 to 2003 models, this was quite common and caused by leaky head gaskets. Subaru had a recall to add an additive to the coolant. Then the warrantee for the head gaskets was extended to 100,000 miles. I was lucky that mine blew at 80,000 miles and was covered, since the repair costs 1,900 dollars. My symptoms were exactly the same as yours. Sorry, Sey
  • tankmastertankmaster Member Posts: 20
    Hi all,

    I removed the battery on my 98 outback in order to get at plugs # 2 and 4. when I was done and re installed the battery, the alarm went off. Any idea how i can deactivate the alarm immediately after hooking the battery back up? I did have one window open. I removed the keys from the ignition and tried connecting the battery again but the alarm goes off again.

    Any help much appreciated.
  • vbhoovbhoo Member Posts: 1
    I currently have an early production 01 outback llbean that is apparently a total lemon. I've had pistson slap, 3 bad engine managemnt computers, a replaced transmission, a rear sunroof that despite repeated adjustment, still leaves a 1-3 mm gap along the rear lip when closed (the dealer actually put black duct tape on the inside lip as a supposed fix), falling door seals on the front door, the wind noise from the mirrors (had gusset replaced in 02, mad problem worse), mulitple complete electrical failures (new battery, alt, cables), and some minor alignment issues. Over the life of the car, it was owned by my parents first, it has been on a 3 months or 3k oil and filter change regiment of synthetic only, blades, bulbs, tires all replaced at regular intervals, all service done at subie dealers. I love the car when it works, well below 32 mph when it then sounds like take-off, but I feel that emotions have come in the way of what looks to become a serious drain on my wallet in the forseable future. Is there such thing as a subie mechanic that can actually fix them, or do the reliability ratings reflect lowered exspectations of people who love their cars inspite of their flaws. Should I call is quits on this one now, or try to wait it out?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Sey (semebe) covered the basics, so here is a little additional detail. The hot exhaust gases escaped the cylinder and found its way into the heater core (why you had no heat) and to the cross-over (why the temp gauge read high). Once it 'burped' and the system cooled, it sucked all of the fluid out of the overflow tank to backfill the system.

    The conditioner (basically leak-stop) is only recommended as a fix for the low pressure seepage (cooling jacket to external) typically found on the newer SOHC engines ('99/'00-present). It is not typically effective against the high pressure internal leakage found on the older DOHC design, and is not recommended for this purpose. If it worked for you, understand that it is probably only temporary, and the overheating is likely to return in short order.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OB and Forester are pre-wired. If you get the OE wiring harness it's plug and play, easy as cake.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes, on mine I have to hit lock/unlock/lock with my keyless fob a few times to get it to stop blinking the lights. I don't have an alarm, but it's worth a try.

    -juice
  • humandrivehumandrive Member Posts: 1
    I took my `99 outback wagon to get inspected today and the only thing wrong with it was that the check engine light would not come on. The light is the left most one on the tachometer and the only one there that does not light up. The oil light right next to it will light up but not the check engine light. Would this be a bad connection, burnt out bulb, or something worse?
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    I have a 2003 Subaru Legacy with 35,500 miles on it. I have 500 miles to decided whether or not I want to purchase the Subaru Gold Extended warranty.
    My question, do those of you that follow this board think I should purchase it? I know its a gamble, and it paid off on my '91 Legacy back then (constant replacement of CV joints every 15k miles).
    My only concern is the head gasket issue of the past. My car 'was not' recalled as part of that initiative, but, still worry.

    What do you guys think?
    :confuse:
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    it is simply a question of statistics and economics, only you can answer it.

    Do dealers make money on extended warranties (big picture, not individual)? You bet.

    Would you normally "lose" money on the average by buying a warranty? You bet.

    So the bottom line is, can you afford to fix the car on your own if it fails? This is statiscally the best choice. If you can't afford it, then buy the warranty. Either decision shouldn't create worry for you. This only relates to the car. If you have other issues (can't afford downtime, etc.) then the warranty may be for you.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My guess is a bulb. It's probably a real hassle to change it, though.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Your roadside assistance also expires with the B2B warranty. Do you have AAA? If not, a Gold warranty adds that benefit, making it more worthwhile.

    The lack of warranty protection on the gaskets almost argues more in favor of the purchase. But 03s have not been problematic, they had the new gasket material in them.

    Let me ask this - do you plan on keeping the car? If you really like it, the warranty would help you keep it for several more years, and that's cheaper than buying a new car by far. The cost of the warranty is probably about the same as 3-4 months' worth of car payments.

    When you look at it that way, it makes sense. I have a 7/100 Gold on our 2002 Legacy.

    -juice
  • rb3035rb3035 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    Please excuse the newbie post by myself, a mechanically-ignorant Subie owner. Next week I will be taking my '99 Outback wgn (105k) across the country from CT to CA. Thge trip will be broken into about 4 or 5 legs over 4 weeks with between 3 and 10 days rest at each stop.

    My question concerns any pre-trip maintenance you experts could recommend. The car runs well (has done six 1,000 mile roadtrips in the last 14 months without a problem) though has been minimally maintained. I am thinking that flushing and topping up the transmission and brake fluids would be a good idea, and after reading these posts, replacing the timing belt. Thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated, and could anyone provide some ball park $ figures for this maintenance?

    Thanks!

    Rahul
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your most likely source of breakdown would be the engine's belts and hoses. I'd have those looked at with a careful eye and replaced, along with a coolant flush if that hasn't been done in the past 2-3 years.

    TIRE PRESSURE is important, too.

    What do you all in the forum think about replacing the water pump at the same time as the timing belt?
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I'm not a mechanic, but I think every automaker recommends replacing the water pump when the timing belt gets replaced. I'm not sure why, but it seems to be standard operating procedure, from what I've seen.

    Bob
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well they do that because on some cars getting to the water pump is a devil of a job, so they say "do it while it's just sitting there out in the open".

    But on some cars it's not a big deal to do the pump at any time, so that's why I asked.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I guess the real question, are they subject to failure, and therefore replacement is recommended? And I guess the answer to that is it depends on the car in question.

    Bob
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it's the original pump at 60,000 miles, I think I'd replace it if it's just hanging there by a few bolts right in front of the mechanic doing the belt.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Timing belts usually don't get replaced until 60K or 105K, depending on the manufacturer. So can you afford to bypass your first belt change, and wait until the second go around to replace it? That means 120K (60K) or 210K (105K). That seems like an awfully long time to me.

    Bob
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Thanks, juice - I'll dig around for it. One complication may be the wiring was modified when we pulled the OB with the motorhome, so the brake lights would show. may just bite the bullet & get a shop to do it right.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Given Subaru schedules the timing belt replacement as late as 105k on some models, I would definitely do the water pump at that time. Might as well, you took apart everything in front of the engine, and have to pay for new gaskets (especially the front main seal).

    -juice
  • rb3035rb3035 Member Posts: 3
    thanks everyone for the quick replies...after the posts and further reading i decided i will definitely have to get the water pump and timing belt replaced in addition to flushing fluids and checking belts/hoses.
    so does anyone know a good repair shop in CT?
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    The water pump on the 2.5L SOHC engine is driven by the timing belt so it makes sense to change it during a 105k mi timing belt change. My mechanic also changed the timing belt tensioner and thermostat in the process. (I think the '99 had a DOHC motor but still used the timing belt to drive the water pump.)

    If the '99 Subie had timing belt changes at 60k I wouldn't replace it at 105k. If it has never been changed, it's time.

    If you are doing fluid changes as recommended in the owner's manual, then just continue with the routine maintenance. If not, I'd change tranny, diffy, coolant, engine oil, and brake fluid.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    raybear's dealership is up in CT, in Stamford if that's close to where you will be.

    raybear is an active member here on Edmunds.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    "The water pump on the 2.5L SOHC engine is driven by the timing belt"

    I have a hard time believing that any car company would do something so idiotic. Can you confirm this?

    John
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Pretty common practice, John. My late '80's Toyotas had this "feature". Think about where they are most commonly situated. The natural position for the pump is dead center on the block between the cam and crank, so driving off the backside of the timing belt is a pretty easy thing to do.

    Steve
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    I have never heard of it. It seems idiotic for two reasons 1) the timing belt is always notched; and 2) the tension required for the timing belt is more than would normally be run on the water pump.

    We aren't talking about a serpentine belt that does everything. I do know that there are at least a couple accessory belts underneath that require tensioning, apart from the timing belt.

    Learn something new everyday. I am actually glad that things aren't done my way all the time, but it usually surprises me when they aren't.

    John
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    oh it gets better, the tension is controlled by a little hydraulic piston which has to be compressed:

    1. upright
    2. by no more than X force (I think it was 66n-m for some reason)
    3. no faster than Y amount of time (again from memory, something like 3 min)

    otherwise, you blow the internal seal and it's toast.

    here's a pic from my SUPER OLD imagestation album-- number 11:
    http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292183933
    (not going to bother with tags, because I know imagestation won't let me hotlink/embed unless I pay $$$)

    haha, just read the notes under the pic. it's not torque, it's force, but yes it's 66 something or other. :D

    ~Colin
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    geez, looks like you had the dremel drill out even.

    IIRC the 2003 2.5l engine is a bit different? I swear there are at least 2 accessory belts, and the timing belt isn't even visible. Now my curiousity is really peaked and I am going out at lunch with a big crescent wrench (j/k) to see what is up.

    John
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