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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • I hope you are feeling better soon and that the doctors will find an effective solution.
    We are all thinking of you and miss you.
    Take Care,
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Yes, original clutch, and after reading some of the posts here, I want to add that that little Subie far exceeded my expectations of quality, durability, whatever else you may want to talk about. I only spent $18K on that car and it gave me all those miles without a single repair except a squeaky $50 idler pulley replaced with the timing belt at 100K. I really believe today's Subies are some of the best engineered, best-built cars under $40,000 around.

    On my car I still had the ORIGINAL BRAKES and the ORIGINAL CLUTCH at 115K+. In my experience that is pretty rare - Subie brakes in general seem to be awesome, except for the people posting here about rotor warping.

    My ignorance of clutches led me to post that comment - perhaps it is not the strength of the clutch, but some other factor that affects how much it chatters? It did do it a little even when brand new - nothing I could not live with.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Under $30k, actually. :-)

    In fact, I saw a left over 2002 VDC for $25.5k, had my wife still been shopping it would be ours, no question.

    I just rotated my tires, and the brake pads look like they'll last forever, too. The rotors are nice and smooth, I haven't ever owned a car that didn't create at least some grooves.

    The chatter happens more often when it's cold and damp, some say it's the pressure plate isn't as rigid as it could be. What I find puzzling is that even then they seem to last forever. Doesn't make sense to me. Oh well.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, I would do tires first, then alignment, even if you have to postpone.

    225/50 have the same circumference exactly. Those would work. Or stock size.

  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I had the ECU reprogram on our '00 Outback. I too was worried that it would 'break' my baby that was running just fine and not exhibiting any of the problems that the ECU program fixed.

    It's been fine ever since, although I wish they would have mixed up my engine with a 2.5H4 TT. ;-)

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Thank you Papa Bear, I had forgotten who it was that mentioned it.

  • Some of us with H6 engines have found that the coolant level has dropped from the "full" to the "add" mark more than once and we have had to add coolant. We've had our cars pressure-tested at the dealers who found no leaks. My car was put on a lift to see if there was coolant hiding in a crevice, and none was found. My coolant level has "stabilized" just a hair above the "add" line. One of the techs suggested to me that there is often air in the coolant system (from the factory) and that Subarus coolant levels fluctuate quite a bit, but none of us report the level rising once it has dropped. I wasn 't sure when I purchased my VDC that I was making the right choice (#2 was the Passat), but after eight months and a number of trips, we think the Subaru is great. I look forward to the day SOA comes up with a reason for this coolant "problem".
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yours sounds like Mike's, then.

    Just check the level every time you fill up the gas (you should check your oil anyway), to make sure it doesn't get any lower.

  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    Concerning coolant loss in the H6, I thought I would add a couple of comments to what Juice had said. Having followed this issue from day 1; here are some observations.

    Probably the total amount of posters that have mentioned this has been probably 10 - 15 in the last 6 months.

    Only Robert and one other guy seemed to have problems that actually extended into the actual coolant system. All the rest seem to have coolant that drops in the coolant tank and then stabilizes somewhere. Mine is stable (for several months) at about an inch over the low mark. At least one person has had it stabilize below the low mark.

    Only about 1 pint of fluid will take it from the low line to the high mark. Several of us have the theory that the coolant tank is just not sized right for the H6, and this is just natural variation.

    I have a case file going with SOA (started by our Patti). The SOA field rep does not want me to top up and just see if it ever drops and to where. I really want to top it off and see if it goes back to the same place, but I won't. I tried it on my WRX and it does drop to about an inch below the high mark and stabilizes.

    I keep hoping that a couple of experimenters out there will top theirs off and see if it stabilizes at the same point. I am also curious as to the mechanism for the overflow; I see no evidence that there has ever been any overflow from the top.

    I am sure this was more than you ever wanted to know about this issue, but you asked.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869

    A good alignment shop will look at tire wear and make small adjustments (within spec) accordingly. I'd get the alignment while you still have your old tires or after the new ones have some information (ie. wear) on them.

  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,922
    Thanks for chipping in, at least it is encouraging that nothing was screwed up in the process,it is always a concern that some hamfisted mechanic will make a horse,s [non-permissible content removed] of it.

    Cheers Pat.
  • I have owned two computers one 10 years old and one 5 months. I have owned a number of cars including two Subarus. I am constantly amazed at both computers and cars and how reliable they are given electrical and mechanical whimsy.
    I average 10 to 15 years on a car. That I can get into a car no matter what the weather or conditions and expect to get where I am going and to get there in comfort most of the time is amazing.
    I may be naive but I think most car manufacturers do a darn good job.
  • Yeah, they do.

    Of course, people's "standards" as to what constitutes a "good car" will differ. I have had the experience now and then of being loaned a "good car that never gives any trouble" and immediately noticing 12 things wrong with it that the owner has blissfully ignored because they don't hassle him.

    So you have to take all anecdotal evidence, (including MINE) with a grain.

    The H6 coolant problem sounds a lot like an air bleed issue.
  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    Please explain what you mean by air bleed issue. Same as air pockets?

  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    on unclogging rear wiper spray.
    The resevoir is filled but not a squirt... well, dribble sometimes.


    edit: Oh, it's Mom's OBS ;)
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    I agree with Ken. Get the alignment THEN the new tires. Driving even a few hundred miles on fresh tires with a bad alignment problem will start a wear problem on the tires. They may pull AFTER the alignment because they were worn in an uneven pattern. Definitely DO NOT drive on a bad alignment with those new tires - you're asking for trouble. The alignment process itself has nothing to do with the tires. You could have a proper alignment done with bare rims. Ken is correct that a good shop can tweak things a bit after the alignment but they should never do this based upon the tire wear pattern they see. If a shop says that's how they'll align your car, run (don't walk) to another shop that will rely only upon their $10,000 machine's laser measurements rather than some homespun guesstimate.

  • Yeah, basically Mikenk, that's what I meant. It's just a theory of course, I don't know, but every now and then a car comes along with a design defect that allows air to form in the cooling system.

    This often requires a rather elaborate bleeding procedure. I've even seen people drill and tap in bleed screws to make this easier to do.

    If you think about it, there's only 3 ways the coolant level can drop.

    1. A leak externally
    2. A leak internally
    3. A false reading due to air in the system.
  • Got my outback back from dealer Mon PM after piston replacement at 48k all under warranty. No more cold engine slap! Dealer was easy to work with, contacted SOA rep and got OK. Nowwwwww......about that slight pinion bearing noise at 50MPH ......ha! uffda
  • mikenkmikenk Posts: 281
    You appear to be game for working the H6 coolant mystery. Here's a couple of more clues / comments.

    - I don't think it is air pockets, because I can continuously top off the coolant and it will stabilize back at a lower level. I can't perceive a growing air pocket.

    - I don't think there is a high pressure leak since the level stabilizes. I have never seen sporadic leaks; either leaks or doesn't leak.

    - This leaves the overflow tank, but I have never seen any evidence of overflow from the top and I can't see any other mechanism for the coolant to leave.

    - New clue: both times that my coolant dropped to the add mark, I had travelled to a higher altitude. Would that cause the coolant to stabilize at a lower level?

    Seriously, I don't think this is a serious problem, but the engineer in me really wants to understand the physics.

  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Try sticking a pin into the sprayer in case it's clogged.
    Also, it might have frozen since we've had some chilly nights.
    I use this clear stuff by Prestone called Windshield Melt (or something like that). I pour about half the bottle into a tank of the "blue stuff".

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