Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

laden

I have a 2000 Subaru Outback wagon with approx. 125K mi. It began doing what another poster just mentioned. The temp gauge would go up to the red zone and then return to normal. It did not consistently stay up and never actually overheated (ie. no steam coming out from under the hood etc.). We got the radiator and hoses replaced which cured the problem temporarily. We then noticed it began to need a lot of coolant and brought it in to the dealer. The dealer just informed us it needed a new engine- arrgghh. OK so you might be saying- well it does have 125K on it. But this is the SECOND ENGINE we've had to replace- the first went out at 65K!!! So I'm assuming Subaru is making a product that is only designed to last for 60-70K miles. Just so you don't think we abuse the car, we have always religiously changed the oil and had the scheduled maintenance and I have had many cars in my life that had over 200K with absolutely no major engine failure. I find it interesting reading through the other posts that there is mention of some special coolant additive. We were NEVER told about this. In Subarus defense the first time this happened they did absorb much of the cost even though it was over warranty. However given that this car is such crap it was the only decent thing to do. So here's my dilemma--- do I 1) sell it "as is"- full disclosure of course 2) find a cheaper source for an engine (Subaru wants $5400) and then sell it (as you can tell I really don't want this car anymore) 3) trade it in and say nothing 4) trade it in and disclose that it needs a new engine. The car still runs fairly well provided the fluids are kept up. If anyone has any alternative suggestions I'm all ears. Thanks! PS it also needs a new catalytic converter .

xwesx

Well, I am not convinced that it needs a new engine (though it sounds like head gaskets are certainly in order), so maybe option 3 with HG failure disclosure. I would probably opt for 2 if it really does need a new engine (though not for $5400 - you should be able to get the engine itself for less than $2500 and the swap out is almost as difficult as sleeping), but only if I could get more out of it than the cost to install the replacement engine.

Understandable why you are disgusted. 125K is still just a bebe. :P

laden

Well, I hope you're right. I will definitely get a second opinion. I was looking online for a used or rebuilt engine and came upon the statement that any Subaru engine will fit into any Subaru- do you know if this is correct? If not, how do you know whether the engine is compatible. In the unlikely event that I end up keeping the car, I would like to replace the current engine with one that is not the same- I recall reading that they changed that particular engine because they knew it had problems. Thanks for any info you can provide.

ateixeira

That is not true, even for the 2.5l engine (EJ25) there have been SOHC and DOHC versions, plus some with and without variable valve control. The intakes have had MAF or MAP sensors, depending upon the year.

Even the short block has been revised, as have the pistons, over the years.

You'll probably have to find something from the same model, and perhaps even the same year.

-juice

xwesx

Agreed. While the engines themselves are likely easy to interchange, they have to coordinate/communicate with the ECU and all of the other vehicular systems. That part is not necessarily a direct swap and you'd likely be setting yourself up for more trouble, expense, and headache... though not necessarily with the engine itself. The most important thing is that you get updated gaskets on "true" (unwarped) heads. That is why I think I would opt for repair rather than replacement if at all possible. I would have more confidence that the repaired engine would have more longevity than a replaced one. For me, that is important whether I would keep it or not. It is really a tough call. But, if you had this engine replaced once already, should there not be any recourse available through the manufacturer since the mileage on the engine is so low? I wonder. Probably not, but who knows, maybe you'll catch someone having a good day. *shrugs*

Best of luck to you. Vehicles can be quite the headaches, one just hopes it is not chronic. :sick:

allsop44

Thanks xwesx! I'm taking it back into the shop with my new found answers from you. Hopefully they could figure out the problem finally...
Thanx once again...

dsain

"Oh, wait, yours is a 2000? Isn't that a single overhead cam? Hmm, seems, still, like it should not be a problem since the cam will never open intake and exhaust valves simultaneously, unless the valves can actually make contact with the pistons if open at the wrong time. General rule: if there is suddenly a lot of resistance, stop"

Yes, it's a SOHC, and I think it's a clearance motor so the valves will never hit the piston.

I've got a bunch of 12 pt sockets, and it seems as if Subaru didn't go crazy with a large variety of sizes (seems like most of the car is 10 and 12mm), so I should be good.

moscowmom

Was your dealer able to fix the static? My 06 Forester LL Bean also has slightly staticky reception but it sounds that way all the time rather than coinciding with the defrost. (The element antenna is in the cargo area side window.) My dealer's service manager says "they all work that way."

miksmi

Where can you find diagnostic procedures for a Subaru 2001 EJ25 2.5L SOHC? On a home page for a Glasair experimental (home built) aircraft, of course!

Andy Plunkett's Glasair Project Library

Should the link break, search for part of:: 2001, 2.5L, SOHC engine EFI diagnostic trouble codes

Our 2000 Legacy GT wagon with 58,000 miles had a P0325 Knock sensor circuit malfunction. The knock sensor failed and cost about $97. Easy to replace.

keyword: CEL check engine light MIL malfunction indicator light OBD-II diagnostic procedure

..Mike Smith . Silver Spring, Maryland, USA

sandy_c

My boyfriend owns a 1990ish Loyale, which I drive occasionally. When it starts getting low on oil, is starts making "ticking noises" (his phrase, not mine). From MY experience, this means, 'pull over NOW and put oil in me, you idiot, or I'll blow up your engine up'! With every other car I've had, this was the point of risking damage, including an old Ford Pinto with the blown out idiot light. It ticked, I pulled over, and there was already serious damage done! (And, granted, it WAS a Pinto!) My boyfriend claims that some nameless person in the Subaru maintenance department, many years ago, told him that the ticking is caused by an 'air bubble', something 'totally unique' to this model, and while sure, it IS also low on oil at this point, the engine isn't being damaged at all.

Is the Loyale 'special' in this unique way, or is he just trying to win the argument?

S.C. :mad:

locke2c

he's full of crap. his 1990ish Subaru Loyale has an overhead valve (pushrod) 1.8L flat four. pretty much any engine low on oil will make valvetrain noise. some of them make more noise than others even when there is a proper amount of oil, especially as the engine accumulates mileage.

there's no air bubble in the oil. and yes, it is being damaged in a typical way by low oil level and pressure.

~Colin

ateixeira

If he remains stubborn and doesn't wise up, maybe it's time to get a new boyfr-, oops, I mean car.

-juice

subearu

it's a cross post, but I figured not everyone in the Crew reads the F-XT forum: subearu, "Subaru XT Turbo Forester" #6669, 8 Aug 2006 2:42 pm

-Brian

locke2c

I don't read that topic, you are correct. Have you ruled out your stereo? I presume that you have tested for the noise with it turned completely off, but various grounding problems can make themselves heard through the stereo especially if you have aftermarket components that aren't well grounded.

It could be your alternator. Test with the hood up and wifey or a friend operating the throttle in neutral while you listen. You shouldn't need load on the engine to hear it. It could also be a number of other belt-driven accessories. You need the AC on to hear the compressor if that's the problem.

A heat shield is possible, but they usually make a pretty distinct rattle. You're hearing more of a whine and it's not the turbocharger.

Your car is definitely under warranty so I wouldn't stress about this or work too hard at the self diagnosis. Assuming you have a competent Subaru dealer nearby, I'd have them look at your earliest convenience.

~Colin

subearu

Yeah, it's at the dealer and they're looking at it this morning. I've tried with and without the AC on, stereo on, etc., it's not those components at least from what I can tell. It's not the turbo, I can clearly hear it's subtle whisper whistle aside from this noise.

Coolant, Oil level (mobil1), power steering, brake fluid, clutch fluid are all clear and at proper levels.

There are times it's easier to hear it, I'm not sure what those are. We'll see if the dealer can find it, or determine I'm just nuts. :P I am having them do the engine air filter while they're at it, figuring they'll likely have that open at some point anyway.

-Brian

locke2c

yes, let's not rule out psychosis.

if the noise is subtle unfortunately I wouldn't give you good odds at the dealer finding it right away.

~Colin

subearu

It's "normal" Power steering pump noise apparently, or it falls into "within specs". Everything is operating properly, so they'll leave it for now. That's fine, at least it confirms I wasn't hearing things - at least while driving!

I can't imagine it going away, I bet it'll eventually get louder or more persistent.

-Brian

damish003

Not a problem so much as just irritating. The drivers window on my 2005 RS wagon makes a noisy squeal when opening for about 1/3rd of the way down, then it stops. Doesn't seem to be binding anywhere. Moves up and down just fine...it's just noisy. Can I lubriate a frameless window somehow without getting stuff down in the door?

-Dan-

hammerhead

...was my 105k sevice (106846 miles) finished today.
Timing belt, water pump, crank seal, cam seals, thermostat.
Brakes are at 5% (yikes! - but I got my money's worth) so they get done Friday. Good for another 105 thou!

Cheers!
Paul

miksmi

Paul, you got 105K out of the brakes? Wow! About what percentage of the mileage is from towing? How much did the service cost?

..Mike

ateixeira

That is incredible. I got about 86k out of my front pads and thought that was a lot...

My rear shoes (drums on the L model) are OK, though. Then again the fronts do 90% of the work.

-juice

hammerhead

No no no... my bad for phrasing it that way... I've only had the car since 53K, and the brakes were new then. I think I meant the timing belt, etc. made me good for another 105K. No mileage from towing, and the miles we pulled it behind the motorhome didn't accumulate on the odometer.

As far as the whole service job, parts were $300: water pump, gasket, oil seals, timing belt, timing belt cover (it had a hole in it), coolant, conditioner, thermostat, gear oil. Labor was $518. Brakes will be in addition to all that, but they get done at the tire place, not the dealer.

Cheers!
Paul

gracej

Hi all,

I've been lurking here occasionally, but haven't posted in years--a testament to how reliable by 97 outback sport has been (knock wood)

Anyway, i do have a few problems that need to be addressed. Top on my list is the driver's window. I've been ignoring the wind noise and slight rattle since i bought the car. Only now the rattle is profound and the window isn't functional. I have to pull on it to get it into alignment and if i don't hold it as i close the door, the window falls back down.

I found the instructions for taking the door apart here (outstanding) and thought i'd try to replace the tearing gusset myself. A few questions if i may:

Does the door come apart with everyday tools?

Since the window is now so &*%^% up, how much more trouble am i going to have and might i need another part?

Any recommendations on where to buy the part(s)?

Thanks to each of you for your comments and to the site collectively, Grace

ladywclass

it's time to have the timing belt replaced on my 2001 outback base wagon ... no one here at home is capable of replacing it, and I have a quote of $289 to have it replaced ... fair price?

thanks
Brenda

hammerhead

Hey, Brenda...
I just had mine done on the 97. I can't tell from the invoice what the specific labor charge for just the timing belt was, but it looks like the belt itself (the part, that is) was 95 bucks. They also changed the water pump, front camshaft & crankshaft seals, thermostat, timing belt cover, coolant & conditioner. The differentials were both overdue, so they changed out the oil in both. My total bill, parts, labor, shop supplies & tax was $943.

Long way of saying $289 for the timing belt sounds pretty good.

Cheers!
Paul

vpekulas

I've got 01 Outback H6 (Canada) and I had the front rotors turned today, the mechanic told me that the hand break needs to be pumped in order to work. As of now when I pull it up it just makes contact (and slamming noise) but doesn't actually work.

Is it true that I need to pump up the hand break for it to work ? I don't want to take it apart and adjust it manually. Thanks.

halohalo

I have a 97 Subaru Legacy GT & think I'm having an electrical problem that may be draining my battery. There's a clicking noise that seems to be coming from under the steering wheel area & the dash lights (i'm not sure what this is called--where the odometer, spedometer, etc are--this whole area) are flashing as is the glove compartment light--they flash in time to the clicking. This happens even when the key is not in the ignition!

My battery has died twice now in the past 12 hours & i just got it replaced but it was only after that that I realized this clicking/flashing lights problem. Also, the parking lights are on all the time even though that parking light switch on top of the steering wheel is turned off (so the red is showing). Since this happens even when the key isn't in the ignition i'm worried this is going to drain my battery again before I have time to get it looked at. it's evening right now so it will be at least another 12 hours or so before i could have anyone look at it.

does anyone know if there's something i can do to make this clicking/flashing lights stop at least until i can get it looked at so my battery isn't drained overnight?

i don't know anything about fuses, fixing cars, etc

thank you!!!

jfl

On my 2000 Legacy, the parking lights are ON when the RED is showing and off when you don't see red.

Consider disconnecting the battery until you need to drive again. Hopefully, that will give you enough time to get it checked.

Jim

halohalo

thanks--i actually just disconected the battery so at least it won't die overnight. for me, right the parking lights are on when the red is showing & when the red isn't showing they're still on but they blink! also, no matter what i do with the pakring light switch the dash lights blink on & off & so does the glove compartment light.

jfl

Could it be your hazard switch is in the ON position?

Jim

hammerhead

Or doesn't the alarm system have a 'panic button' feature that flashes the lights & sounds the horn? Maybe the light flash portion has run amok?

Did the problem persist after disconnecting the battery for a period of time?

Darn electrical gremlins! :confuse: Good luck!

Cheers!
Paul

subearu

isn't there a reset button or something in the driver footwell for the alarm/entry system? I think you have to push this button any time the battery is disconnected. I think the procedure is in the owner manual or even on these forums.

-Brian

nerd

I just installed an aftermarket trailer hitch on my 2006 Outback 2.5i. All went fine until I tried to install the aftermarket wiring harness (Reese No. 15370). The problem is that Reese's installation instruction sheet is incorrect. It says that the vehicle wiring plug is installed behind an access panel by one of the taillight assemblies. I have completely removed both assemblies - no plug. I have looked all over the back of the vehicle inside and outside- still no plug.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone who knows where Subaru hid this little guy. It would be a plastic connector about 1/2-inch square with six female connections.

hypov

Pumped?

Don't recall handbrakes having a pump.
The cable probably needs to be tensioned.

IRCC the manual could guide you on that.

-Dave

vpekulas

By pumped I meant the repeating motion of pulling the hand break up and down which in turn i supposed to tighten the adjusting part ....

What's IRCC manual ?

larrycrowell

This could be a tough one. Something has obviously failed or faulted, but what? Hazard/turn module? Antitheft? Circuit breakers?

Is it the parking lights or turn signals which are on? That info would help.

You might need obtain the wiring diagram (part of the service manual) for your car. This can be downloaded from techinfo.subaru.com for the modest fee of about $30. If I had your wiring diagram I possibly could be of help.

As I understand it, your parking lights and dash lights are blinking with ignition off and parking light switch off. What is the position of your headlight switch (off, park, on?)

Have you been doing anything at all to your car that might be related?

starrman

My 2001 Forester with 115,000 miles runs hot according to the temp gage. On a number of time it has hit the high temp mark (past the red line) a few times.
The dealer put dye into the cooling system to check for leaks and pressure tested the system and they could not find any thing wrong. The dealer runs it for hours and the temp stays at the middle mark.
Took the car to a local mechanic two times. First time replaced the radiator cap and bleed the system free of air. They said the a air bubble appears at the filler neck. This does not correct the problem. Now the mechanic is saying there is a problem with the cylinder head gasket and it needs to be replaced.
Question - why didn't the dealer find this? they say they can't find any problem.
I just purchased this car back in May 2006.
My mechanic and dealer are telling me two different stories.
Does anyone on the fourm have any suggesting on what it could be?
Frustrated - afraid to drive the car.
Thanks!

locke2c

Simple answer: your dealer is terrible.

"Ran it for two hours" -- does that mean they let it idle? With no load on it, a car with a blown headgasket probably would not run hot.

You have the classic Subaru blown head gasket. Under load, combustion gasses escape past the head gasket and force coolant out. (>100 psi vs. 13psi... no contest)

At 115,000 miles, I'd be tempted to find a lower mileage engine from a salvage yard. The all-aluminum engine does not handle overheating very well and you said it has hit H (past red) a few times. You could continue to blow headgaskets after this repair due to warping.

~Colin

starrman

Colin - Thank you so much for this answer. I had read of this problem on the forum; but the Subaru Dealer gave me mixed signals and I wasted about $300 there. My local mechanic was on the right track.
My last Question - how much $'s for a new head gasket and would you recommend any additional work at the same time. I paid $6k for the car and cannot afford to junk it. I got screwed.
Regards,

miksmi

What's IRCC manual ?

I think Dave meant "IIRC" or If I Recall Correctly. Dave thinks the (owner's?) manual might explain that the emergency brake cable needs tensioning.

..Mike

vpekulas

Thanks

xwesx

That sounds about right. I'd bet anything that this problem was known to the seller and that person sluffed the problem on you. My vote is for a thorough flogging of that individual. :P

If you have a shop repair, probably looking at $1800. But, like Colin suggested, overheating can be bad for those aluminum heads and, if the heads are warped, the problem could be a recurring one.

dryfly

I've been told that the mudflaps for the 2001 forester are no longer in stock. I can't find any from the various mail order or junk yards.
Question: can I use the mudflaps offered for more recent model year Foresters?

I just had to get my right rear wheel bearings replaced (71,000 miles). Now it makes me nervous about replacing my timing chain - this is what killed my previous Honda Civic. When should I do this? Is now too soon?

TIA

don

jfl

When my HG went, my mechanic did a pressure test on the cooling system to verify the HG problem.

He also had the heads milled and tested for flatness before re-installing the heads.

Trouble-free since.

Jim

jfl

Subaru timing belts are typically changed at 105,000 miles but double check the owner's manual.

My mechanic also replaces the timing belt tensioner, thermostat, and waterpump at the same time. At the very least, I'd change the waterpump with the timing belt 'cuz you need to remove the timing belt to get to the waterpump anyway.

Jim

ladywclass

ok .. the final job included the camshaft belt, both drive belts, and an oil change .. for $350.00

the water pump appeared in good working order with no leaks, etc., so they didn't do that now ... no extra labor charge for the 2 drive belts...

I'm ok with that ..

forester05fan

If only the things required in the manual are done, how much ballpark should this maintenance cost me? Thanks!

u_r_a_bus

My 94 legacy wagon with 208k miles has been bucking while driving. It began to buck yesterday, but it was intermitent and hardly noticable. This was combined with the car sometimes stalling out at intersections. It has been getting gradually worse and today the bucks were pretty dramatic (they seem to happen at all speeds), but still intermitent. However, this morning my car did not stall on me. The identical problem happened a while back (two months or so) and it culumnated with severe bucking as i accelerated from a sttoplight. I pulled into a parking lot and looked things over. I found nothing and the problem seemed to completely disappear as soon as i started driving again. That is, until yesterday.

Combined with the bucking there is an intermitent clicking noise that seems to be coming from under the engine compartment which is rapid but fairly faint in nature. Not sure if the two are related.

Could this be an electrical problem?? Or could it be water in the gas tank? Something else? Any ideas? Thanks.

Steve

scoutaz

Our 2001 Forester blows coolant into the overflow reservoir (more than normal) under highway driving conditions, no flow back when cool, leaving fluid in radiator below tops of tubes. Head gaskets were replaced last year with new type (result of HG recall), problem started right after replacement. First act was to replace radiator cap, no improvement. Today, we replicated the situation but dealer test did NOT find hydrocarbons in coolant/radiator. Problem does not occur at less than 65 mph. Dealer is stumped. Any suggestions? Thanks!

leo2633

A few years back, I was having a similar problem with my 2001 Forester. My car is a 5 speed, and the sensation was similar to that of someone who didn't know how to drive a stick not letting the clutch out smoothly. It turned out to be the coil pack, which had caused a spark plug wire to go bad and the corresponding plug to foul. The coil pack, wires and plugs were changed, and that solved that problem.

Check that coil pack!

Hope this helps.

Len