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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I don't know what kind of driving you do, my '01 Legacy GT has almost 60k on them and all the brakes are just fine, the front pads may wear out a bit quicker but having to cut the rotors are not a sign of good things. I have a friend who has a Honda Accord and he went thru 5 break jobs in 50K, on rural road driving, go figure
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For the pads, sure, that's about par for the course.

    Don't know about the rotors, though. Is their surface smooth? Do you feel any vibrations in hard braking? If it's smooth in feel and operation, I'd skip the resurfacing.

    Otherwise, ask if they have an on-car lathe, those are more accurate.

    -juice
  • dudedude Posts: 123
    Finally got my sunroof fixed yesterday, just in time for snow
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's good, actually, any precipitation could cause a water leak.

    -juice
  • Just a reminder - when birds feed they tend to show their gratitude by depositing something on a nice freshly cleaned car.

    Pigeons, America's urban pheasant! lol
  • mrk610mrk610 Posts: 378
    Ok i hope this is not a stupid question . Went to the dealer to get a oil filter . I'm going to change my oil for the 1st time myself . He gave me a crush washer with the filter . Now for my question . The washer is used for the oil drain plug in the pan right . It seems to fit the filter ,but I know you don't use a gasket with the filter.

    thanks in advance mike k
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    Mark: In the past I have asked for 'block sanding' rather than lathe cutting if the rotor is in basically good shape. It can be done (best) with a coarse grit paper on a flat block or (OK) with a hand held grinder. It simply roughens up the iron rotor - breaking up the surface glaze, decreases the high spots, removes the high rust ridge at the inside and outside edges, etc.

    By removing the minimum amt required to achieve reasonable flatness, you avoid removing the 'hardened' outer layer that provides the longevity in OEM rotors. This method will require that the pad wear a bit faster to fit the rotor, but I think gives the most cost effective and painless brake job.

    Mike: This came up during the summer and was a source of some confusion. I think we all settled on it being the 17mm drain plug crush washer (even though it seems to fit the hollow spot on the OEM spin-on filter).

    Steve
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    bat - You're lucky to have the pads last that long after a few PA Backroad Drives. ;-)

    My wife needed new front pads on her OB at 60K. I believe the rotors were replaced before that. OTOH, the pads on my OBS needed to be replaced at around 40K IIRC. Just don't do like I did and go to Meineke. Oy vey!

    -Dennis
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    -juice, I believe it was you who was looking for comparison replacement part costs, wasn't it ?

    We just had the alternator go out on our '95 Sentra (88k mi) - $320 remanned + installation. Installation involves draining the radiator and removing the lower hose 'cause it's in the way.

    Sigh. I remember when you could get a $20 voltage regulator and be up and running in 20 minutes. Must be dating myself....

    This car has gotten expensive in the last 2 years: brakes, battery, starter motor, left front axle, brakes again (rotors this time), tires, right front axle, alternator. It has a slow leaks at the front crank seal, the left axle seal and the steering pump reservoir, but I'm not fixing them yet 'cause I don't have any fluids on the floor.

    Here's hoping the Subie does better in years 6-7.

    -brianV
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    it should, but don't bet against the front crank seal leaking on it too.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The only thing I've spent money on was the battery, basically. Mine's just over 4 years old now, 48k miles.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    My Subie goes from car port to garage, fortunately it's almost never uncovered.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    My Forester is 2 1/2 years old and has 30k, which seems about average, maybe a bit low. You're not exactly wearing yours out, are you ?
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    No he's not! My Forester is also 2 1/2 years old and just passed the 40k mark. Argh!

    -Frank P.
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    3 years in January and I'm at 46K. I wish it could be lower.

    Ed
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I'm at 78K miles in 4.5 years. That's about 17K miles a year. :-)

    A buddy of mine put on 60K on his Forester in just 2 years! :-O

    Ken
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    had front pads at about 45K, rear at 60K. Rotors haven't needed doing yet but I think I will be needing my fronts done in the next year and will probably need new rotors, have 72K after 57 months now.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Simple explanation - I put about 15k miles per year, but I've had two cars for the past 2 years.

    So at first I was accumulating a lot of miles, but then the pace slowed. Still, in the last year or so my Forester took 9k miles, the Miata, about 6k.

    Roadsters are great for quick errands and sunny days, but the Subie pays the bills.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    OK, so today I actually measured the interval between when the stock engine temp gauge reads "normal" and when the optional oil temp gauge does the same.

    On a cold morning running 5w-30 - car was in the garage, outside temp ~20, the engine temp gauge stabilized after about 7 miles at ~50 mph in light city traffic. At this time, the oil temp gauge was just coming off of the bottom peg (50 C = 122 F). 7 miles later, the oil temp gauge stabilized at ~70 C (=158 F). I normally expect a little more - closer to 80 C (= 176 F), but my commute is short. It seemed to be pretty stable at that temp.

    '01 Forester S with performance gauge pack
    -brianV
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