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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Cool, good to hear you're happy with the revised clutch materials.

    -juice
  • ebony5ebony5 Posts: 142
    $80.00 for all four tires with mounting and balancing. I have Michelin xw4s with good tread on my '96 Outback (65,000k on it) so when the time comes for new tires I will reevaluate,the situation and probably seek advice here.
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Ebony,

    I always consider the cost of snow tires as preventing a fender bender that would easily cost $1500. In the 8 years I've run them, there have been 2 situations where the prevented exactly that without question.

    As for cost, around here they charge $30 to mount all 4, so double plus for the East Coast wouldn't be too far fetched. I switched to separate rims for $100 not to avoid the cost, but to avoid the inconvenience. For your vehicle, I see alloys all the time on eBay. At the first snow, you can't get your tires switched for 3-4 days due to the sudden rush. This way, I can install mine in about 30 minutes when it's going to snow.

    IdahoDoug
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Didn't see a 10w40 M1 on Mobil1.com, so I compared 10w30 vs. 0w40.

    10W30 has a thickness of 62 Centistokes @ 40C., and the 0W40 is 80 cSt. The latter is thicker at start-up.

    I'm sticking with at least a 10W30 year round as well.

    -Dennis
  • Deciding whether to switch to winter tires can also be influenced by the tire you're riding on now. My 'summer' tires on the OB are admittedly lousy in snow, so I switch. Tires on my wife's car are much better, plus they're siped, so we're going to try them (carefully) & see what happens.

    Doug: snow tire season may be here sooner than you think - o'night lows in the teens by the weekend for you & me!

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,924
    I live in Ottawa Canada, and snow tires are a must, I put mine on at the weekend, I also have separate rims for convenience and cost,plus mounting and dismounting tires does not do the bead a hell of a lot of good.

      Cheers Pat.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Got the undercoating recall done today. Was done in about 1.5 hours.

    They also did another recall (for which I didn't receive notice, nor did I have problems with) for the cold engine hesitation. If it makes 'em happy, I guess.

    Then I treated the Outback to a set of new 'sneakers'. (I likely was feeling remorse for testing that MT XT while I was waiting). I put on 4 Tiger Paw Touring's. The OEM Wilderness' could have made it through the winter, but they were getting pretty close to the wear-bars.

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Also, Papa Bear, when you sell it you want the buyer to know all the recalls have been completed.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,924
    I got the notice for the anti corrosion recall,but, I did not get one either for the hesitation, I don't have the hesitation either but like juice pointed out you should have all recalls up to date.

     Must give my dealer a call. SOBs. kept my car all day, said it took longer than Subaru made out, I knew it was BS but what can you do, we all know warranty work waits until the paying customers work is done.

      Cheers Pat.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    just wondering what people's thoughts were of running a FWD minivan with different sized tires front and back (215/70-15 front and 205/70-15 back, or I could do it the other way around too).

    Is handling likely to be drastically affected?? It does have traction control, does that matter?

    Why am I doing this?? Just being cheap. I have 2 sets of snows of different sizes and 2 of each 4some is worn too far to use but the other 2 are ok for another season!
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Yeah, Pat, my dealer was pretty up front with the time it required to do the undercoating. Really the wait is for the drying time. He did mention that if it's wet out, drying time would increase. Perhaps temperature might play into that as well.

    Dennis/cptplt - 2 different sets of tires front->back might cause the ABS to act weird, as well as the traction control. I'd recommend getting a matching pair to complete the set.

    -Brian
  • crashton6crashton6 Posts: 245
    I don't think you'd find any problems with the handling of the van with different size tires front & back. If that van has ABS brakes then you are in for a real surprise first time you stop. The ABS brain will think the smaller size tires are locking every time you stop. You won't like that much.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    guess I won't be cheap!
  • tyguytyguy ColoradoPosts: 804
    If you only put 500 miles a month on your car, half city and half highway, how long would your oil change interval be? Assume you're using a factory filter and Mobile 1 5W-30.

    -Ty
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    I think the manual has a timeframe as well as mileage. Something like 3,750 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Of course, you can use the normal driving schedule (7500 miles/7.5 months) with M1.

    -Dennis
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    I wouldn't use 40 weight in a Subaru unless you were in a hot environment. The owners manual should show it's "acceptable" but the preferred are clearly 5w30 and 10w30.

    My M3 drinks 7 quarts of either 10w40 mineral or 0w40 synthetic.

    -Colin
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,924
    I am running 10-30 Mobil one year round and have had no issues.

      Cheers Pat.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    10w30 dino oil here, never an issue on any car I've owned.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Sorry Jon. Haven't had time to check the board. I will stay with M1 10W-30 for the winter on both the OB and Sienna. The OB manual shows that 10W-30 is good to 0F. I figured synthetic will lower that number somewhat (still don't understand why it's rated 10W, but flows better than dino at low temp), it rarely gets below 0F where I live and I have a heated garage.

    Greg
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,924
    I would like to have a heated garage also, but I should point out that if they use a lot of roadsalt where you live a heated garage is the absolute worst thing you can do for your car.

     Salt is at its worst when the temperature is above freezing IE. heated garage.

       Cheers Pat.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    my dad just put a car wash in his garage. A buddy who owns a plumbing company had one in his garage, and, for exactly the reasons Pat mentioned above, my dad wanted to be able to spray the cars/trucks off from time to time during those high altitude Colorado winters. So he copied the setup. It really wasn't that expensive if I undersatnd it right, amybe a couple thousand absolute max, and it was done with Home Depot pieces, nothing pre-prepared. The garage is huge and heated.

    Jim
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,924
    Jim. you sure know how to make a guy really envious, now I could really getinto that.

      Cheers Pat.
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Yeah, I know. I try to keep the salt off as much as possible. It's just soooooo nice to go from house to warm car, open the garage door and drive out into the snow. FWIW I only keep the temp around 45-50F and I figured it's better for the engine. :) humor me please.

    Greg
  • gmanmdgmanmd Posts: 20
    I have a 2001 Forester S automatic transmission, and I just had the transmission mount replaced because of a crack. I noticed that the car would make nasty sound on warm startup or decelerating into a turn on rough ground. The subaru service station said that they have had problems with the transmission mount in foresters because the central screw has been coming loose and then it eventually cracks the mount as the mount moves. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm concerned because I will be coming off of the warranty in another 5 months and was thinking of trading it in for a new XT, but if this is an inherent problem of subaru transmission mounts, this can be an expensive (I think) problem if you are out of warranty. It may make me think twice about buying another forester if this is a wide spread problem.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    That's not something I've heard much about here. What State are you in?

    Patti
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    To paraphrase Will Smith in Independence Day, "I have GOT to get me one of those!"

    I guess my car port is a good compromise. You're sheltered from rain and snow, but it's not heated.

    -juice
  • ballisticballistic Posts: 1,687
    Probably an aggravated State, from the sound of it...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I've read all the Subaru boards on Edmunds for the past 5 years, and that's the first I've heard of that specific problem.

    In general, the auto tranny is very robust. The same unit handles 300hp in WRXs reliably. The 5 speeds supposedly only handle 250hp or so, so the auto is actually more robust.

    -juice
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    By "mount," do you mean the rubber or urethane bushing that is attached between the body of the car and the transmission case, or the point of attachment on the case itself? It is not unusual for motor mounts and transmission mounts (the bushings, that is) to fail, as the materials they are made of deteriorate over time. In my experience it doesn't happen unless the car has seen rough duty, has high mileage (100K miles or more), or is just old (much older than 3 years). How many miles do you have on your car?

    I have a 2000 S with AT and am curious as well. Please keep us posted.

    Ed
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,924
    Is the way to go, best of all worlds, I have a narrow laneway and I have one of those portable garages, can't work in it but the car is protected, makes a big differnce in winter.

      Cheers Pat.
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