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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    My dealer wanted close to 575 dllars for new brakes front and rear and turning the rotors was included. Lots of Bull. As mentioned in ealier post my wifes Forester has had brake problems from day one/ Screeching, growling fadin, spongy pedal just all around uncomfortable feeling and the dealer really never did anything but clean and adjust including, one time when he told me he checked the brakes but never removed the wheels ( I marked the lugs to the wheel). I went and had new Ceramic pads and shoes put on at Pep Bpys and they also flushed the entire system and replaced with new fluid. Rotors were nice and smooth and they said no need to turn them. Big difference in the brakes and no fading or soft feeling as Forester brakes are known to have. I would reccomend the ceramics to any one
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    Pep Boys charge on the brake job was 329 dollars and there is a lifetime warranty on the shoes and pads one on the labor. You don't get from Subaru
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's a low price. We have Pep Boys around me, too, and I recall they had a 30k service for something like $190. I think they added an alignment and a couple of other things for $300, a pretty complete 60k service, basically.

    -juice
  • question - brake pads/shoes/rotors/etc are not covered by the mfg b2b warranty, right? so basically - the recommendation is to go wherever you feel is the best service/deal for the brake service - i.e. midas/pepboys/local shop/etc/etc. just looking for confirmation. tks
  • I'm just hitting 30k miles. Need an alignment, brake fluid replaced, cooling system flush and fill, and fuel filter swap. I did the manual tranny and diff fluids, oil & filter, air cleaner and plugs myself. How difficult is the cooling system flush on the H4? I've done it before on other cars but don't want to end up with any trapped air pockets. Thinking of letting the dealer do it when I take it in for the alignment and brake fluid.

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    At the bottom of the radiator is one of those twist out plugs that acts as a drain. It's easy to access and use, no tools required.

    I just drained and filled. I'm sure I didn't get 100% of the coolant out, but I'll do it again this year.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The black thing in the center is the valve. You twist the knob, and it pours right out. You could even get crafty and attach a hose, then drain it directly into a recycling container.

    Given your track record, I expect no less. ;-)

    -juice
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    I'm planning to do this in the next week or two. From the service manual, it's pretty straight forward, but IdahoDoug had some comments about this perhaps two months ago.

    I think it takes the thermostat a little while to fully open giving the temp gauge a brief spike.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Drain it facing down hill, so that's the lowest point in the cooling system. That'll get more coolant out.

    I filled it up, then turned facing up hill, and topped it off. For the next couple of days, I topped it off again. You should probably "burp" the system with that valve we discussed, though, to get it done quicker.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,924
    I drained mine last year when I got the car to install a block heater, to tell you the truth I did not do anything special when I refilled and I never had trouble with air bubbles, my heater works just fine.

    cheers Pat.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    IMHO, it's a gamble. Actually getting anything done on your car is a gamble. I've used American Tire/Tire Associates (NJ) and they have been excellent in regards to service and quality of work (alignments and new tires).

    OTOH, I had work done at Meineke and it was complete junk (the service, the manager and the work). Their warranty was 90 days on the labor and they hosed up my rotors (problem surfaced in 4 months). They didn't even know how to remove the wheel covers on my OBS and each cover is marked with "rotate this way ----> " or something like that. They ended up ruining one without telling me and I made them replace it.

    In the future, I would only use OEM brakes or maybe performance brakes on the WRX.

    -Dennis
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    My '90 Camry V6 had rear disks. First they broke a carrier/caliper bolt and claimed it came in missing. Fortunately I was watching when it happened and saw where the technician threw the bolt head. I entered the shop floor, picked up the head and matched it to the broken stud! They then pulled off the rear rotors without manually retracting the mini-drum parking brake shoes first (rotating the star gear thru the little port). The rust ridge grabbed the shoes tight, damaged the spring retainers on both sides.

    They extracted the broken stud, but I ended up spending 3 hrs repairing the parking brake system in my driveway that night. Never again!!

    Steve
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    The ceramic brake pads (post 6116) sound interesting, may consider that next time. I'm using my Subaru credit card rebate coupons to pay for pads and other parts. 8~)

    Jim
  • In the last year my Outback has had oil leaks repaired four times. It has 88,000 miles. Twice for camshaft seals, once for main seals, and once for the valve cover gasket. It is all under extended warranty but if this is going to be a continous problem, I may have to dump the car which I hate to do because I really like it. Is this an ongoing problem with this car and is there a permanent fix so I do not have to do this so often>
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    just kind of an old car thing, IMO. The only one you have not yet done is the rear crankshaft seal, which is going to be expensive, and if you have a manual transmission, it would serve you well to have this seal replaced when you replace the clutch.

    The camshaft seals are important, because oil can get on the timing belt, but the others you mentioned are not very important, worst that will happen is you will get some oil on your driveway.

    Oil seals wear out on all engines in all cars - this is not a Subaru-specific problem.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I disagree with Nippon on that. For a 4 year old engine to have this many oil seal issues is not acceptable to me no matter what the brand. If I knew that an engine was going to suffer that much work before 100k, I wouldn't buy it.

    I believe this engine and year is among the worst Subaru engines ever for oil seal integrity and from what I know your engine will continue to have this problem. It has been discussed on these boards a bit. Apparently, the 2.5 you have was fixed in subsequent model years.

    IdahoDoug
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I was talking to a mechaninc friend yesterday about replacing timing belts, I have a 99 Forester on which I think it needs to be repalced at 60K and a '01 Legacy GT which needs to be replaced at 90k. He said since the water pump is driven by the timing belt and it is internal, it is a good practice to replace the water pump when doing the timing belt.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    We kicked this one around for a while last year. I am of the opinion that a well designed water pump can last the life of the engine. So if the belt tensioner is OK and loading does not change much, the pump will never know....

    I tend to go this way as on some engine bays the working room for access to the pump is so poor, you put more at risk (as well as the cost) than if you just left it alone and took your chances. I have never done a Subaru, so I cannot comment on what is required (only Toyota). So far I have won, but your luck could always change. You could then face the joy of getting to do it all again!!

    Steve (the other)
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