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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    Juice, I know you had this issue on the Mazda...outside axle boot is cracked on the 1994 Turbo Legacy. Has been for quite a while, 6-12 months. I'm about to get a new clutch and throwout bearing, and am wondering if I should just take care of this while I'm at it. Given how long it's been cracked, should I just let the thing fail completely (no signs of any damage at all right now) before I have it repaired? I think they quoted me somewhere in the $200's to repair the boot, and it's what, $500-700 for repairing the whole setup once it fails? What should I do? The grease gunked up my ABS sensor on that corner, too. I am very hesitant to replace it because I think it's over $200 as well. And if a dealer ever tells you your ABS doesn't work when the ABS light is on, tell them "BS". I had a panic stop situation in the rain a few weeks ago, and I'll guarantee you my ABS worked perfectly and allowed me to steer where I wanted to go. Everthing clunked just like it was supposed to, and the ABS light was blazing away.

  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,922
    If the Cv joint is not showing signs of distress I would replace the boot, why would you spend $700 to $800 when you don't have to.

    Cheers Pat.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    why spend $200+ if it may be close to failing since the boot has been broken for perhaps up to a year or more? Follow me?

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    the joint will fail without a good boot given enough time. you should've paid the $200 last year because if you do it now it's better than never but the joint could easily be ready to seize now...

  • I've got a 2001 S with 18,000 miles had a burning smell coming from my engine and exhaust. The engine never overheats, but the smell is always there. It seems particularly strong when going uphill, but I have also smelled it as soon as I turn on the engine. I've gone through a few tanks of gas (different brands), changed the oil & filter, flushed and changed the coolant, and checked teh Transmission fluid (it's OK). I've made an appointment to bring it in to my dealer, but anybody have an idea what might be causing it? Thanks, Happy New Year.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    As a vested interest in the well being of Jimmy's legacy... I'd say put the $200 into the boot now and then just add on $150 when you sell it to me :)

    hee hee

    Happy New Year.

  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    I didn't do it when the dealership told me about it because I was pissed at them. They had attempted to cheat me out of a few hundred dollars and I caught them at it. So, I didn't want to believe the price they were quoting me, and even had my doubts as to the validity of the supposed repair needed. I found the damaged boot myself about 4-6 months later. No question I should have done it asap.

  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    Loosh: I've had Dunlop SP Sport 5000s in the OEM size on the Forester for almost a week now. The Pilot Sport A/S were great in the slushy snow/ice but I took them offmore to save the wheels from exposure to abuse during the winter. I don't think the Dunlops are high performance enough for you but the Michelins might be, even though they cost about double the price of the Dunlops.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I just had mine flipped cause they were mounted backward. They handle much better now. :)

  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    paisan: These are fine so far but the difference b/n these and the 17" Michelins is night and day. The car feels 6" taller and a lot bouncier (is that a word?). That setup really transformed the Forester into a surprising good handler. On the plus side steering effort is lighter and noise is 'way down, quieter even than the old Geolandars.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My guess is that the sidewall has a lot to do with that. I'm finding these to handle better than my AVS Intermediates, even though those were summer tires. Also rim width might be effecting it as well.

    I went from 225-50-16 in a symetric, non-directional tread to 245-45-16 in an asymetric, direction tread. We'll see how it handles @ VIR in Feb. though.

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Cross post with OB Probs board, but since your discussing it. My OBs left head gasket needs replacing at 33K miles. Dealer said they have seen several of these now on 00 models - left side only. Interesting.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    you're going to run SP5000s on VIR?

    watch that you don't blister them.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Ed: So, what do the SP5000s do for the Forester in terms of handling vis-a-vis the Geolandars? I'm pretty sure I'll be getting some SP5000s sometime in January.

    mike: Can you tell the difference between the symmetric and asymmetric tread in day-to-day driving?

  • vince14vince14 Posts: 55
    I posted this message at OB problems and solutions also.

    Happy new year to all. I haven't posted in quite a while, but have 84k on my OB and it has been great 'til last night. Please forgive the length, want to give as much background as possible.

    Few weeks ago, since I felt the tranny was sluggish, I had fluid changed, on tranny and differentials,at local Lee Myles.

    I noticed a distinct burning smell, that came and went, smell in car is similar to latex balloons.

    Was supposed to bring it back to Lee Myles, but didn't have the chance, they seemed to think it was strange since they only changed the fluids.

    I did just have the car inspected two days ago.

    Well, last night, leaving a friend's house, backing out of their driveway, I started pushing into some snow so I pulled up and starting backing out straighter. I was confronted with a horrible, high pitched, metal against metal, grinding sound.
    Tranny shifted ok, and I drove it home like that, (about two miles) but can't imagine what it is!
    I looked under the car and see nothing wedged, I checked the tranny fluid, and there is nothing obvious to me (virtually car illiterate)
    Sound only occurs with movement,I backed it out of garage a little, was ok in reverse but grotesque in drive.
    So, tomorrow, I'll get it towed, but to where?
    my regular mechanic or to the tranny place?
    any ideas or help would be appreciated!
  • Did FWD only engagement as per your instructions.
    The whistle is still there. The whistle starts around 65ish and stops around 79ish. Loudest at about 69-72 as long as the accelerator is depressed. No accelerator pressed no noise. Any suggestion how I should discuss this with the service department. I've an appt on Jan 9th. The pinion bearing and gear ring has been replaced and it only made the characteristic of the whistle change to different speeds/sound levels.

    Would a quality fluid change possibly help?
  • vince14vince14 Posts: 55
    jfi responded to my other posting:

    Could it be brake pads worn to the warning indicators?

    thanks jfi,
    You were close. Brakes were recently replaced, I'm pretty fanatical about maintenance since I depend so much on the car. Anyway, my brother in law listened to the sound, noticed it was from the left front and guess the problem before he got under the car. Guess the plate outside the rotor got bent in a spot, even had a small rock wedged in it. He bent it out with a screwdriver and the car is fine. Man, the money you can save when you have a clue. Like I said, I've never run pads that low, so I've never heard such horrible scraping sounds before. Though I spent most of my time looking under the rear tires, I probably would not have noticed the problem looking at the front.
    still have that burning smell, though.
    thanks again, Vince
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    Ouch.... Head gasket? I don't want to hear this...

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    colin: You think the SP5000s will be worse off than my AVS Intermediates? I may get an extra set of rims in which case I might spring for my summer tires early, thinking of Toyo Proxie RA1s for summer tires.

    Ken: Not sure since the SP5000s in that size are Asymetrical. I did tell the difference between them being on "correctly" and being on backward!

  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    Ken: Too soon to tell on the SP5000 handling as the weather's been pretty nasty here and I just haven't spent much time behind the wheel, much less doing any spirited driving. In the size I/we use (215/60-16) the tread is symmetrical, whereas paisan's are asymmetrical. I do have to give a nod to Colin and say that I wouldn't use these as a track tire, but that's based on the assumption that it'd be the Forester I'd be tracking. (Now wouldn't it be a hoot to see a Forester at a track day?)

    Give me a week or so to adjust pressures and hopefully get some dry weather and I'll give you a full report.

    Happy New Year!

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