Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Greg: Just keep in mind that a 5W30 will always flow better than a 10W30 at cold temperatures. The chart shows only useable range but provides no information on the relative viscosities. In fact, the first number (Seybolt Seconds)represents the number of seconds it takes a given amount of the oil to flow through a viscometer at 0 degrees Farenheit. A "5" weight oil therefore will flow twice as fast as a "10" weight oil at 0 degrees.

  • gxb159gxb159 Posts: 46
    I have a 1997 Outback with Keyless entry. I purchased the car with only one remote transmitter and would like to get a second. I have found several on Ebay. There are many models but none with the FCC # on my remote. Are other subaru remotes compatible with the 1997 keyless entry system? Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would call 800-SUBARU3 and ask that same question. My guess is there are at least a few different types, so not all would work interchangeably like that. A dealer may have to program them.

  • I noticed today at that there is an odor that smells like antifreeze when I am stopped at a traffic light. Checked the coolant level tank and it was down below lower level when engine was cold. Refilled it ran a bit and waiting for full cooldown (should not take much time in this cold weather). What are the signs of a head gasket problem?
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    Lemme see...

    1. White gooey stuff on oil filler cap
    2. Oil visible on top of radiator fluid
    3. White smoke in exhaust AFTER warmup
    4. Inexplicable loss of coolant
    5. Inexplicable loss of power
    6. One or more cylinders fails to hold compression

    The best test is the last one.

    I had a gasket go on my '91 Sundance - took me a while to figure out because I drove very short distances. I'd check the coolant level and everything would be fine for weeks - then I'd drive a little farther and the thermostat would open, allowing the high pressure side (due to the blown gasket) to "see" the radiator. Next time I'd check - no coolant anywhere, but no leaks either. Fortunately, the gasket failure had not "connected" the oil system with the coolant system, so I didn't suffer a catastrophic engine failure. I had the gasket repaired and sold the Sundance in favor of our Forester...

    Hope this helps,

  • Hello all... I just bought a '03 Outback Sport (my first Subaru as the "screen name" implies) and it started to make a rattling noise a few days ago. I've only had the car for 3 weeks and it only has 497 miles.

    After the engine warms up and the car is idle for more than 10 seconds or so, the engine seems to idle too low and a rattling starts (I've not been able to trace it). I don't believe it's anything materially wrong, but it sure can be annoying.

    This is my first new car and I obviously don't expect this to happen, ever, but especially so soon. Have any of you heard of this problem before? Any comments/advise would be greatly appreciated.
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    My head gasket was replaced over the holidays. I noticed a burning antifreeze smell, drops just behind the engine on the left (mainly on the cross member) and a low reservoir. No af in oil, no oil in af, no white smoke. The leak was external. No af entered the oil channels or the combustion chamber. This was confirmed by the dealer.

    Ken - My thinking is the 5W synthetic flows too well when cold. The 10W is 2x the viscosity so it will sit in the clearances (i.e. bearings) longer thus reducing the morning knock. Question; if synthetic flows better than dino at a given temp, why are they both rated at 5W?

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038

    you summarized my thoughts exactly as to why I ran 10w30 Syntec, and later, 10w30 Mobil1 in my '99 2.5RS.

    it definitely was noiser at cold start with 5w30. used Mobil1 5w30 for one change in mid-winter and never went back... noticeably more valvetrain noise at cold start!

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I believe by going to 10W30 from 5W30, I will at least reduce the cold knocking. I plan to buy some tomorrow, only I'm not due for a change for another 5K miles.

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    never went back to 5W30 or Mobil 1?

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    5w30... sorry for the confusion. I actually started with Syntec but had been using Mobil1 for a while and tried the 5w30 Mobil1.

    The M3 drinks 10w40 Mobil1. BMW-branded special formula. They've also got 10w30 and 0w40 on hand at my dealer... (think the new M3 uses the 0w40, not positive though.)

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869

    Good question. I was refering to 5 vs. 10 with regular dino, however.

    I too have found that 10W30 Mobil1 makes for quieter cold starts.

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    my '97 OBS was still fairly new, the exhaust shield would rattle against the Y-pipe causing the sound you are describing, and it would be especially prone to do that at low can have the dealership move it away from the pipe, and the sound will be eliminated. Whether you do that or not, if that is the cause of the sound it is not doing any mechanical harm.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • cdivencdiven Posts: 1
    My headgasket had a small leak on the drivers side I could smell it when I shut off the car I had 65,000 miles on the car subaru wouldnt help me with any of the expenses I took it to a non subaru dealer because I had to pay for all of this expense. $1100 is a large expense now that I see more people have this same problem I wouldnt be surprised if this shouldnt of been a recall. I love my 2000 outback limited very much but because of this expense so early I dont have much faith in a car that should last wont buy one again! subaru dosent stand behind their cars.
  • mrk610mrk610 Posts: 378
    Wow seems like the cold weather is bringing out the subie engine noise .I have had the knock since about 6k miles .I now have 21k on it . 02 obw base . My noise has gotten louder and has stayed around longer lately. I have finally gotten my dealer to say that the noise is not normal . They say that they will change the timing belt tensioner and related parts . My car makes very little noise when idling but boy what a racket when you put it under load . Hopefully the replacement will take care of my noise . I have all my appendages crossed that this is the fix.
    I run 5w30 mobil 1 with subie filters. I am also thinking about changing to 10w30 next oil change.

    Mike k
  • joybelljoybell Posts: 275
    No, my Loyale does not knock when it is cold. I have never heard of that! And I don't even treat it nice. I don't warm it up....just start it and go. The transmission is a little stiff, the engine a little sluggish but after about a KM it is fine. On my trips to town, it never even warms up past the cold mark on the thermostat. I don't bother worrying about oil types. After I hit 100,000 km I didn't do the oil change as often either...just when it gets dirty. I rarely have to add any oil either. The only knocking noise I ever heard was "fixed" by replacing an oil seal, and that was a long, long time ago.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Perhaps we are not all talking about the same thing. All boxers make valve noise til they are warm. I think we are just talking about different things. If yours is truely silent on cold startup, then you should box it up and ship it out to SOA/FHI cause I bet they'd like to check it out!

  • joybelljoybell Posts: 275 maybe the engine "noise" is just normal to me. ;-)
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    aha! see, Mike's got a timing belt tensioner problem just like I described a few posts back.

    not a rare issue, I'm afraid.

  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    I think the fuel injectors do make a bit of a pulsating noise also, maybe that is what some of you hear?
Sign In or Register to comment.