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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • jbur1jbur1 Member Posts: 15
    I doubt that the dealer would go to bat for me because I only had it serviced there once since purchasing the vehicle. Also, I have done most of the maintenance myself (i.e oil changes, coolant changes, brakes, plugs, etc.). I keep good records of when I performed these services but I don't think that would help much. I even added the Subaru coolant additive when changing the coolant at 30,000 and 60,000 miles. I am currently thinking about putting more of the coolant additive to see if that will help me get through the winter and then make a decision as to repair or buy new. Anyway, thanks to everyone for your comments.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Just curious if anyone here has or knows someone who has had their '09 XT engine tuned by COBB ?

    If so, how did the tune work out (I'm considering stage 1, as stage 2 requires an exhaust pipe/cat converter swap that will void the XT's engine warranty.).
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    About two months ago my radiator starting leaking. Up to then I have had no coolant leaks with my 2000 Forester, now with 312,607 miles. I replaced the top hose over a year ago and will do the bottom when I replace the radiator. I am looking at:
    REPLACEMENT Radiator - Aluminum Core, Plastic Endtanks
    or
    CSF Radiator

    From Car Parts Wholesale.com, unless someone has a better alternative source.
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    I have a 2005 Forester with 125,000 miles on it. About 5 months ago, there was a misfire when I started the car. It seemed as if the car was only running on 3 cylinders and was very rough and shaking. I tightened the gas cap and started the car again and it seemed fine. It had no more problems and the CEL went out. Yesterday it happened again at start-up. My daughter is using the car and she just did not use it that day. When I got back from work, I started the car and it was fine. I drove it to my mechanic and he checked the codes and he said it is coming up that a misfire happened. He tested the car by reving the engine etc. and said that nothing apparent seems to be happening. He suggested driving it around for a few weeks to see if it happens again or rides rough. He then will have a better feeling as to where to look.....wires, spark plugs......fuel line.

    I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen. Yesterday was pouring rain, but I do not remember what the weather was like the first time it happened 5 months ago. I am nervous because in 2 weeks my daughter is supposed to take this vehicle back to school.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I went thru something similar last winter. While it might be something more complex (fuel injector, etc.), try this simple test first. Trace the spark plug wires back up to the coil pack (sits in front of the air filter). This is the modern equivalent of a distributor cap. Gently twist and pull out each wire (one at a time!!) and check for any signs of corrosion. I had three bright & shiny, and one was quite green.

    Being somewhat cheap (and handy..), I cleaned the wire and the socket well, and put it back together. A year later it is still holding up, but I should go ahead and replace it before it fails again.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You are on the right track.

    Follow the advice above.

    In order of least expense, try spark plugs, then spark plug wires, then the ignition coil.

    For fuel supply swap out the fuel filter.

    Those are the cheap fixes that you can do yourself. At 125k it's not a bad time to change all the wear items anyway.
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    Thanks for the replies. I will check the wires, spark plugs etc.. I have maintained the car very well. It just got a new fuel filter 6 weeks ago. I am not sure when the spark plugs were changed, but I am sure it was right on schedule.

    The car was part of a Subaru recall for some valve in the gas tank and I had that done in October. I don't know if that has anything to do with the problem but since it misfired once at the end of August,I would think not.

    Of course, I can not do any of these things myself since I know very little about cars. I do however have mechanics that I trust.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's great, a good resource to have.

    I had a '93 Miata that ate spark plug wires every 30k miles.

    In your car, I would have been on my FIFTH set! :D
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Yeah, my strongest suspicion reading through this is that the spark plug wires are on their way out or there is a problem (crack?) with the ignition coil. The fact that it is more than a single misfire, yet only happens intermittently, makes me think ignition coil. Bad wires tend to cause intermittent misfires, but they happen on a regular basis (such as a single misfire every 5-10 seconds, but any time the vehicle is running).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    no answers, I guess...

    Anyway, for those who wonder, I've learned using an ECU curve remapping device in any capacity requires flashing the ECU EPROM.

    Not doin' it - like my warranty. :blush:
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Why does piston slap disappear after 2K rpms and completely after 30-45 minutes?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    When short skirt pistons are cold, they 'rattle around' more in the piston bore, and make that characteristic noise. This isn't only a Subaru thing - a number of other engines designed with reduced friction, low reciprocating mass pistons do this. As the engine warms and the pistons expand, they fit better in the bore, and ride more precisely.

    Mine is maybe a little quieter when cold above 2k, but not much. Perhaps velocity and inertia keeps them riding more true? Usually mine goes quiet within 5 minutes - around the time the temp gauge nears the first notch on a cold morning. This might be earlier than some as my garage rarely dips below the freezing mark.
  • joe_in_pajoe_in_pa Member Posts: 7
    04 Forester with 62K. After replacing a broken a/c compressor belt, I ran the a/c to check it out. It seemed OK, the clutch kicked in, then after few minutes a loud "banshee" type squeal came from the compressor area almost stalling the engine. The squeal would last for 2 or 3 seconds then off for the same. I checked the tension pulley when I changed the belt so I know it is not that. It only squealed when the clutch was engaged. Am I looking at a bad compressor? I have disconnected power to the clutch for now.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    It sure sounds like the compressor is locking up. Probably what broke the first belt. Lucky it was brittle and snapped when it did. But why? Most likely you are right - a bad compressor - but there are other possibilities.

    1) Did you check line pressure? If it is too low and the pressure switch on the R-D isn't working, you could be torturing a good pump.

    2) Same with a bad expansion valve on the evaporator. It is supposed to only let enough liquid freon pass that the cabin heat can evaporate back into a gas. If it lets too much thru, liquid freon returns to the compressor. As a liquid cannot be compressed, it can stall the compressor.

    3) Along these lines, there is also a temp switch somewhere that doesn't let the system run when the temp is below around 35 degrees or so for the same reason - you cannot evaporate the pressurized freon below that temp, and it will kill the compressor. Maybe that sensor is bad.

    You really are going to need some professional diagnosis to be sure what to go after.
  • joe_in_pajoe_in_pa Member Posts: 7
    Thanks fibber for the info. I have some knowledge of a/c systems but I am no expert. I will check the temp sensor if I can find it. I did not even give that a thought. I did get a chance to check pressure on the low side and it seemed ok, then the squealing started.
    The car is my wifes daily driver so I don't drive it much. I asked her about a squeal but she said she cannot recall hearing anything. I guess I'll keep plugging away.
    Again, thanks for the input.
  • forester_incvforester_incv Member Posts: 10
    fibber,

    Thanks for the reply and opinion. I'm about 99% sure I do have a real problem developing. No way a new tranny should completely yellow it's juice (not a hint of red left) by 15K miles, and this one did. The shock shift first showed up, occasionally, by 10K, just something funky going on. Didn't expect this on my first brand new subie, my old auto 92 Loyale did 150K with no real issues, other than always rotten brakes.

    I've been defrauded (or gross incompetenced) by my dealers shop on another car this last year, so I'm reluctant to go back there. (One strike and your out when it's as ridiculous as the issue was.) I'll give my closer local subie dealer a shot at it, I'm at 4/24 on the 5/60, so it should work out OK.

    I love this 06 Forester, other than a few P0420 codes and this tranny issue it's a great car, and I don't think the tranny is a common issue from what I've read. Thanks again, keep up the good work! (I love that rainy day advice, gotta fight fire with fire)
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Glad to be able to help. Yellow is a step on the way to Brown - bad news for long life. I'd take it to the dealer this way so that they can judge for themselves, along with the history of how often you have changed it. If you change it prior, remember to save a sample in a glass jar for them to see.

    One problem with changing tranny fluid is that you actually only drain out about 1/3 or so of the total contents. By contrast, you get better than 90% with an engine oil change. So the 4 quarts of red stuff that you put in mixes with brown, and looks yellow at time zero. There are three approaches to improving this:

    1) Repetitive changes with a 2 mile drive between each drain. 3 such cycles gets you something like 90% new fluid, plus the continued loosening of crud.

    2) A two man operation in which one pours in fresh while a second person monitors how much and what color pumps out thru the removed cooler line with the engine running (very risky unless you know what you are doing!)

    3) A fluid flush/exchange machine. Until recently, SOA wasn't keen on tranny or coolant exchange machines because of the risk of contaminating with different types of fluids from other cars. Valid concern!

    You might want to tell us where you are. Maybe one of the members of this board could make a recommendation on a competent dealer.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    This tells me over time the bore gets larger and larger. Plus the bore wears unevenly. Since the bore is now not true (perfect cylinder) the rings will not trap the fuel air mixture as well. Additionally, more oil will be consumed during combustion. With the 'rattling around' the rings may fail.

    A side note. With 313,226 miles, some of my accessory switch are acting up. On cold morning cruise will not engage properly. I can not bring up my trip odometer, all I see is the lifetime mileage. The rear hatch light does not illuminate from time to time with the hatch open.

    Just some things you run into at this mileage level.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I would have thought so too, but it doesn't appear to be the case. This was a big subject back in the early part of the decade when short skirt pistons were introduced. I've never seen one in person, so I can only retell the testimony of other board members who related their story.

    Knowing that 'rattling' is possible, the lower skirt is coated in teflon. For a while, SOA was replacing very noisy pistons if they exceeded a certain criteria. Some people were present when this was done and reported that there was little or no scuffing on either the bore or the skirt. The conclusion was that it was annoying but just noise. Supposedly, SOA eventually stopped replacing pistons as it really did little good and could not be shown to be a long term problem.

    You hear of Subaru engines leaking fluids, but its rare to hear of one burning oil or with a ring failure.

    Again, this is what I have heard - I haven't seen one apart.

    I will add that I changed to Mobil 1 and *think* it makes less noise. Maybe that's just wishful thinking?
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Yup, you are correct. The cylinder walls wear in an oval shape in the area where the rings ride. The wear will be on the sides of the cylinder where there is side pressure from the combustion and power strokes. This is also the reason why cylinder wall measurements are taken in several places during a rebuild.

    If your oil loss is still low, you may want to try going up a little bit in oil weight. An old mechanics trick. I believe Subies are 10w-30, so maybe try 10w-40. Who knows, it may buy you another 100K!

    Ah, sensors and switches...what can I say there. Getting old like the rest of us.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    Your Subaru is most happy with OEM wires and NGK spark plugs ....
  • growler5growler5 Member Posts: 67
    I am happy to do this longevity test for you guys. All I ask is honorable mention in your memoirs when you talk about this guy drove to the moon and back in his Forester.

    You're not home free yet. The moon is 250,000 miles one way, so you've got some serious distance to go yet.

    I hope to do as well as you have done mileage-wise. Being retired means less $$$ to spend on new cars. I'm just thankful that my '05 Forester is a h*ll of a lot cheaper to maintain than the Beemer 525i that it replaced.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I am at 313,527 which means the moon is now in my rearview mirror and getting smaller.

    I would entertain getting a new Forester if they had not changed the body style.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've owned both, and the new one isn't that much bigger, if that's your concern. The turning cirlce is actually tighter, and the Forester is still shorter overall than a Chevy Cobalt.

    Small outside, easy to park, but now roomy inside as well.

    I loved my 98, but my wife prefers the 09.
  • growler5growler5 Member Posts: 67
    I've had the same thoughts regarding the new Forester configuration vs the older one. The new ones seem a bit harder to enter / exit because they are a bit higher off the ground. And the rear cargo area seems to have a smaller footprint, although the overall cargo space is larger with the seats down.

    Sort of like the Goldilocks fable. "This bowl is too hot, that one is too cold, the third one is just right." And the "just right" old gen Forester is now the "too big" current Forester.

    I was thinking that if the Outback also has the size-creep syndrome, I might check out the Outback as a suitable replacement for the '05 Forester when the time comes to burn up all my Subaru bucks.
  • growler5growler5 Member Posts: 67
    Question - how are the seat cushions (in particular, the driver's seat) holding up after all these miles? Are they still the original ones?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It is a tiny-little step up for the driver, but the passenger seat is still fairly low so you can slide right over (not up or down).

    the rear cargo area seems to have a smaller footprint

    I don't think so - Car & Driver just did an 8 vehicle comparo, and the Forester fit the biggest sheet of plywood on its floor. That is with the seats folded, though.

    Lemme see if cars101.com has the measurements - the cargo floor is definitely wider now...

    2009+ is 42.2" wide between wheel wells, 35.5" long.

    2008 had 37.5" wide, 31.5" long. Definitely smaller.

    Maybe you saw the new one with the cargo cover hiding that, it's deceivingly roomy.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Yes, the original fabric has not tears and show some soiling.

    I took of the drivers fabric and tossed it into the washing machine. I could not fit it completely on the seat but it does not look bad.

    I wish the fabric could be removed, washed and put back on.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I was wondering if anyone else is experiencing something similar, or might know what it is. 08 Legacy automatic 2.5i limited. About one yr. ago @ 13,400miles, I noticed a noise that sounds like it coming from the drivers side wheel area. It can be heard at slow speed 20mph and the sounds gets faster as car moves, however when I apply the brakes the sound stops. It only happens occasionally, nothing precipitates it. It first sounded like a clicking noise. Now it's sounds like a soft squeak, actually hard to describe. Of course, the sound stops by the time I get to the dealers, so because they can't hear the sound, " it can't be duplicated". I've taken it in on four different times and they've had the tires off, checked brakes. put stethescope to tires to check if were the bearings. "Everything is operational, I wouldn't worry." It has gone two months without making the noise and did it today lasted for all of one minute. Help! I'm quite frustrated.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Could be something as simple as a pebble or small piece of debris hung up between the brake rotor and the dust shield. It noisily gets tossed around in there for a bit, then gets ejected. SImilar thing happened to me years ago & made such a racket I had the car towed!

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Hey People, I need your help.

    In post 18544 I told about my radiator leaking. Well today, I was to tick marks for the red zone on my temperature gauge (314,002 miles).

    Any suggestions on a replacement radiator? How about these:

    REPLACEMENT Radiator - Aluminum Core, Plastic Endtanks
    or
    CSF Radiator

    From Car Parts Wholesale.com, unless someone has a better alternative source.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I need your help.

    In post 18544 I told about my radiator leaking. Well today, I was to tick marks for the red zone on my temperature gauge (314,002 miles).

    Any suggestions on a replacement radiator? How about these:

    REPLACEMENT Radiator - Aluminum Core, Plastic Endtanks
    or
    CSF Radiator

    From Car Parts Wholesale.com, unless someone has a better alternative source.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited February 2010
    I am tempted to say CSF, just because it is a more "standard" (familiar) all-metal construction. However, I might be tempted to try the Silla aluminum/plastic unit given it's warranty.

    As far as vendors go, I have used Rock Auto in the past and been very pleased with their service as well as the quality of the parts received.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I bought the 2000 Subaru Forester S 4 Cyl 2.5L Replacement Radiator Forester part number P2402 from Car Parts Wholesale. The picture matched what was installed in my car.

    How much trouble am I in since my temperature gauge came within one tick mark of the red zone?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited February 2010
    Really hard to tell until you get it all back together. You could do a cylinder compression test to see if you blew a headgasket, or a radiator pressure test to look for the same thing, or simply start it up and see how it runs.

    Make sure it is well topped off, and check it again after the first cycle. Not sure if there is a bleed screw up top somewhere, or if the radiator cap is the high point on the Forester. Cycle the heater to get air out of the heater core. Watch the gauge carefully throughout for signs of trouble.

    Oh, and good luck! Right now I'm hearing echos of "Houston, we have a problem" (OK, they had there's on the way to, you are on the way back from the moon...)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think they are wrong, and it IS the wheel bearing. That's exactly how our 626 sounded when it was failing.

    It may not show symptoms if there is no load on the tires.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I had the bearings go bad twice on my 95 Impreza first around 55,000miles then about 10,000miles later same wheel. I told them bearings and was told because they can't duplicate sound, they can't fix it. The dealer also informed that they weren't going to start replacing bearings and only later to find out that didn't solve the problem.
    The sound only happens for 1-2 min. then it stops and I never know when it'll happen. Can I nicely demand that they replace the bearings? This has been happening for over a year. It doesn't have the same sound as bad bearings, though I'm waiting for the constant sound when a bearing has gone bad. Then I can say for sure what it is.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I guess it depends on your relationship with the dealer. Can't hurt to ask.

    It will be under powertrain warranty a while longer, at least.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    It is not the interior but the outside body style that I am not fond of. The new style makes it look like almost every other SUV crossover (if that is the right classification). Until this model year, Forester were quite distinct, like Volvo's.

    The 2001-2008 body styles were iconic. Before 2009, I would have bought another Forester (if I was economically able). And that is big for me, I have never bought a car from the same manufacturer. My wife on the other hand, owns her third Camry.

    Maybe the 2012 model year will be different. But that would mean stopping at 314,254+ miles on this one and that would be hard for a mileage addict like myself.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Maybe a clean, CPO 2008 model with low miles?
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    The very first car I owned was pre-owned (PO). The only thing certified about that car was it's status as a "Handy-man Special". It needed rear wheel seals, brakes, trunk lock, alignment, tires, tune-up, a plate for the floor in back and a windshield. Oh, it was a 1974 Chevy Monte Carlo.

    Let me tell you about the last two items.
    The floor area passenger seat rear had a hole the Fred Flintstone could use to get the car moving. While I was driving I could look down and see the road beneath my feet moving.

    Now the windshield. It had cracks, but what really got me was when I took it to the car wash. Water came through and not a dribble but like someone had a water gun aimed at me. I might as well have had the windows down. I got drenched.

    Since then, I have not owned a used/CPO vehicle.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Can anyone confirm how often a battery should be replaced?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I have a '97 Outback and I wait until the battery is shot before replacing it. I think the last one I replaced had 8 years on it.

    But I've read that newer cars have more electronics and those electronics are more sensitive to flaky power. Some of the tech people around the forums recommend early replacement (4 or 5 years) just to avoid messing up expensive sensors.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited February 2010
    The one in my Forester lasted 7 years, but I neglected to top it off with distilled water. So my fault.

    You should get 5-8 years or so. Auto parts stores and dealers will perform free load tests if you ask.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    This is the second battery I put in my Forester (314,514). The first replacement died Monday. Here is the story.

    The radiator has a crack in it, so last Tuesday, the 16th I ordered another one. In the mean time, I continue to drive. Six days ago the leak got worst on the way home from the office, I could only drive 3 miles before it started to over heat. I would stop, let it cool a bit and then put in some water/antifreeze. I did this all weekend. Monday when I went to pick my son up from school, I could not start the car. Even a boost would not help. Saw I replace the battery.

    I figured age and the frequent starts without a chance to charge back up did it in. I think you need 15-20 minutes of runtime for the alternator to replace the energy lost each time you start your car.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I can't get over your mileage.

    Have you ever replaced the head gaskets? Wheel bearings?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited February 2010
    Head gaskets.... yes.... I remember that as though it was yesterday! :P Isn't that what brought you here initially, Phil?

    One thing you might consider checking is the alternator, especially if it is original. They do have a life expectancy and the brushes wear down. Even if you do not opt for replacing it, you can overhaul it. The alternator on my Outback was getting weak by 150,000 miles and I finally replaced it shortly after the head gasket job, so somewhere between 192,000 and 200,000.

    If you put a multimeter on the battery terminals, it should read about 12.6 volts with the car off and about 14.6 with the engine running. Alternatively, auto parts stores should be able to load test it while it is in the vehicle - I just had that done on my Escort at the local NAPA store earlier this week. I ended up reaplacing the alternator, which I installed Wednesday night.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    In my previous posts, I told about the idler pulley and timing belt fiasco. That is when I did the head gasket on the curb/passenger side.

    At 282K miles the front driver/road side bearing was changed, at 311K miles the rear bearing on the same side was changed. There is commentary in previous posts about the bearings. But the others will be changed by the summer.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    LOL, 282k on an original bearing is a bragging point, not a reliability concern. ;)
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Here is a trick to help with a cracked radiator. Most of the rapid leakage is caused by pressure in the cooling system, which forces the water out of a crack as the pressure rises. I ran a bad radiator for almost a year in my post college poor-man days on two different cars by doctoring the radiator cap.

    Your cap has two seals. The lower one keeps the system pressure at plus one atmosphere (14.6 lbs). When pressure reaches that, the spring lifts. The upper seal keeps the fluid from pouring out, and forces it thru the small hole into the overflow tank. I used to remove the lower seal - now all expanding coolant flows directly in the overflow bottle. As the system cools, it pulls it back out of the bottle and into the radiator.

    Is it safe? Water boils at 212'F. Adding ethylene glycol (50%) raised the boiling point to about 235'F. Pressurization retards boiling to about 255'F. Net is that if your cooling system is healthy (good water pump, thermostat, etc.), you can get away with just the mix and no pressurization. I've driven around with my labtop OBD scan tool and monitored the temp sender (we engineers get our jollies in strange ways...), and indeed in normal use I never get over about 205'F.

    Net is I wouldn't recommend it unless you are in desperate shape, but it is far better to run without pressurization than to let the coolant level drop and risk forming a steam pocket that could blow a head gasket.

    Another thought - Did your alternator get a coolant bath when the radiator leaked? That could be related to your dead battery.
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