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Comments
Ross
Greg
I checked our records and I have not found that you have contacted us. If you are having problems with your Subaru or your dealer, please do what the Owners Manual suggest. Call us at 1-800-SUBARU3 and give us the opportunity to assist you.
Thanks!
Patti
If you are not satisfied after reviewing it with your dealer, call us!
Thanks!
Patti
-mike
Patti
Patti
-Frank P.
-mike
~Chad
Wondering if the new knock sensor fixed your engine pinging problem? I'm waiting on a second drive by the district service rep. His computer wasn't working last time, so he didn't get the data on my pinging noise yet.
-Eric
I can't find your original post and my time is bit limited this morning, so I hope you find my answer here.
The transmission fluid and differential fluid information might not help much. The trans. fluid is an "SOA" fluid with an SOA part number. A dealer can sell it, but I'm not sure who the manufacturer is a factory fill of part number SOA868V9240
Diff fluid: gear oil is 80W-90 GL5 made by Idemitu oil company (Japanese Company).
Please remember, however, that it should be rare that these fluids need to be "topped off". If it is low, you should see a dealer because it may be indicative of a problem.
Thanks!
Patti
The bulletin you refer to relates to a reiteration of proper bearing installation. If the bearing is distorted, the hub should be replaced also because a new bearing will just end up doing the same thing. Also, if the bearing is not set right into the hub and if it is not installed properly (with enough grease, etc.) it will fail again.
If you call us at 1-800-SUBARU3, we can follow up with the dealer to see what is going on.
Sorry about the repeat problem.
Patti
I guess I should do that. I do want to stress That I feel that the dlr and Subaru are being very good about this and are working to make repairs. I Will give SoA a call, this will allow me to say kudos to the dlr and to Subaru for such a great service and a great product. There's not a man-made thing that can't be fixed, that I know of anyway. I guess I just wanted to get some feedback from everyone. I'll post an update.
Keep up the *GREAT* customer service Patty! You make Cadillac's CS rep's look bad
~Chad
P.S. In my previous post I meant to say that they may be replacing the CV joint (something happened in spell chk).
Patti
Thanks for the information. It comes in very handy/good-to-know, especially "rare that these fluids need to be "topped off". If it is low, you should see a dealer because it may be indicative of a problem" (no, no problems - just good to know) :-)
-Frank P.
This level of attention and service has impressed me very favorably with Subaru and will be a strong factor to become a repeat owner when the time comes.
Good luck,
Ed
Admittingly, weariness do linger awhile after the (any) fixes, but the smile factor usually puts it behind you.
I just wanted to know if you got the re-send of the follow up on my case (#303042) sent to your SOA email address. I'd like to keep it open so I can revisit it at my 60K scheduled service.
Thanks!
Ken
-Frank P.
-juice
I missed all of you - it was strange not being able to jump on to the computer to check in. I know this dissappointed some folks on some of the boards, but I'm tryin' to catch up.
Now - if only the contractor would finish up!
Thanks for your care and concern!
Patti
Patti
also has anyone left off the plastic panel that you remove to get to the oil filter? it would be nice to not have deal with it. is it really needed?
thanks
robert
Welcome home, Patti.
-juice
I was told this-
The ECM module in the H-6 (Bean and VDC) has a programming flaw that causes excessive check engine lights to come on.
There solution is to bring the car in, FEDEX the ECM to NJ for a programming adjustment and bring it back. Expected out of service time of 3-4 days. They provide a rental.
There was also a recall on a possibly faulty seat rail on the manual passangers seat.
Very informative.
The issue with it leaking lots-o-oil around 65K is caused by a seal that deteriorates. The rubber is just not up to the job. The replacement seal is made out of a higher temp rubber and therefore this should not be a recurring problem.
The way to diagnose this is to look under the front of the car. There are two little round posts, probably a bit over an inch in diameter. They have allen wrench recepticels in them if they are wet with oil (or if your getting lots of dripping) then your a good candidate for that problem.
I also found out that their might be a problem with the alternator under recall, extends all the way to the 98 models. They check the serial # to see if it is one that has issue or not..
Due to the "Check Engine" light problem,I had my onboard computer removed, overnighted to SoA and ECM AND fuel sensors were "corrected". LL Bean wagon brought to Delray Subaru (Florida) on a Tuesday morning and was returned to me that Thursday afternoon with problem(s) corrected. I was offered a loaner but declined, having had the use of my wife's '97 5 speed Impreza.
I was greatly impressed with the speed and professional service extended by both Delray Subaru and SoA. It's a good feeling knowing the manufacturer DOES care.
Don
bit
Thanks,
Kevin
-mike
-Colin
-mike
Greg
bit
Greg
Good luck with your search. Hope we don't confuse you with too much information!
Cheers!
Paul
-Colin
If you live where there is snow, you need snowtires. The Blizzaks are great, better snow/ice traction than the Arctic Alpins though the latter run better on regular roads.
my poor baby got hit, again. i had just parked my car on the street two houses down from mine and this lady backed her SUV out of her driveway and right into my sooby. the same place i just had fixed a month or two ago. i'm taking it in in two weeks, and i won't have my sooby for 8 days:(
seamus
I just bought my first subaru, a 1997 legacy L wagon 5-speed (also my first stick), and it seems that the clutch is in need of replacement. I called a local subaru dealer for an estimate and was told it'll be about $600 if the clutch needs to be replaced, or $1100 if the flywheel's done too. Does anyone know if there's an easy way to tell if the flywheel is ok or not? (By easy I mean without a lift or tools.) The reason I ask is because I got a warranty through warrantybynet, which covers the flywheel, but not the clutch, and it doesn't kick in for another 3 weeks and 500 miles. If I could determine right now that it's only a bad clutch, I'd get it taken care of right away, but if I'm going to need the flywheel replaced, I'd rather wait until my warranty kicks in.
Also, a couple of related questions: If I were to try to drive another 500 miles on a clutch and/or flywheel that are in pretty bad shape, am I risking additional damage beyond the chance that those parts which would have to be replaced soon anyway fail completely and force a tow to the repair shop? Also, do these type of repairs justify the higher cost of service by a dealer, or would I be best off looking for the cheapest rate at a local mechanic?
Thanks,
Luke
http://aaronsauto.com
No GT rim though.
bit
The valve is made of brass and stainless steel and the valve lever has a safety lock so it won't inadvertently open.
Vince
ps - I don't have any affiliation with this company. I'm just a satisfied customer.
Patti
By the way, I addressed this question to Yokohama and they said either pattern was fine, but they deferred to the Subaru pattern (for liability reasons, I'm sure, in light of the Ford/Firestone debacle).
Thanks in advance for any and all input.
Len