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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    I also answered Ray, as he posted the question on several of the subi boards. So you have tried it - interesting.... Please keep us updated...

    The 'circuit' under the tape is known as a voltage divider. Using two resistors, some of the voltage output from the piezoelectric pickup is shunted to ground, reducing the signal that the ECU sees. By varying the ratio of the resistor values, you could tailor the reduction to anything you want (from 0% to 100%). Substitute a potentiometer (variable resistor), and you could adjust to your hearts content!

    Does the 'kit' still require that you splice in the two leads? I am not crazy about such 'permanent' mods. If I were doing it, I would spring for some proper wiring harness connectors and make it a plug-in affair.

  • I've already installed a potentiometer and am trying to "dial away" the minor detonation I'm hearing. Yes, you have to splice the leads, but by using wire nuts (the cone shaped, screw-on plastic connectors) its relatively easy to uninstall/modify. I just recalled another reference to this problem: , which I also mentioned in my post #910. -- George
  • eps105eps105 Posts: 216
    I am very interested to hear more feedback from people who have tried this mod. I have a 2003 Forester XS Prem and prior to that I had a 99 Forester L, both of which have exhibited the same problem. Since it occurred on both Subies and others have discussed this, I have long since passed this off as a quirk, not a defect, in Subarus engines.

    Nevertheless, the quirk is annoying! It seems all too often that I am feathering the gas to pull slowly out of a parking space, and the engine hesitates, has almost no power, and sounds almost like it is going to stall. So I keep slowly pressing the pedal further, until it finally lunges with power. The power delivery when it lunges seems rough and uneven, but gets better within a few seconds.

    If this is in fact what others experience, and this fix does supposedly work, I would gladly pay $47 for it!

    Any additional feedback is greatly appreciated.

  • andmoonandmoon Posts: 320
    I thought trying wouldn't hurt so I installed extra ground wires and it did get rid of a very slight hesitation around 2700rpms.
  • that doesn't sound like the same thing; I had problems at highway speeds -- the check engine light came on, and the engine hesitated sporadically while the light was on -- then the light would go off for a while and all was fine, and so on. For the record, the MAF was replaced under recall while this was occurring, to no effect. This MAY be a problem on manual shift cars only; I'm not sure the knock sensor is even installed on automatics. (Anyone?) If you go this route, read carefully all the disclaimers.

  • gmginsfogmginsfo San Diego, CAPosts: 113
    I've noticed that my '03 XS Premi AT knocks a bit when going up hills. Not a lot, but enough to notice. I use the CA version of 87 octane from ARCO, Mobil or other national brands, so I don't understand the problem. I'm just about to turn 4K. Any thoughts???
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If it's not persistent, the knock sensor is probably working, i.e. it's dialing back your timing to prevent persistent pinging.

    It may be OK, it means your ECU is eeking every last bit of power from the engine. If timing were set more conservatively, you'd be giving up some low end torque.

    Ah, the things you learn when you own a Miata with manually adjustable timing! :-)

  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    In a previous thread, Graham described the automatic self leveling suspension on the Aussi Outback. IIRC, he said that it was an internal oil reservoir that 'pumped up' after a few compressions (a passive arrangement), rather than an active airpump type rear shock/strut.

    Anyone know more about how this works, and if these are available aftermarket?

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Are you sure it's not some light pinging? Knock is a lot more to be concerned about.

    Try some higher octane fuel to see if it clears it up. Even though our engines are designed to run on 87, there may be some outliers that will run better on higher octane fuel.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    but the milano i'm getting has these as well.

  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    is exactly what I am experiencing. As soon as the engine comes up to temp, I have no further problems. I try to ignore it & feather the gas to get around it, but it is annoying, and seems to be on the increase.

    The odd thing is that I would not expect a cool engine to be suffering from pre-ignition (ping / light knock). Fuel instability usually only comes into play on hot engines, so I wonder what the knock sensor is really hearing when it fiddles with the timing?

  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Me too! I've had it from day one in my 2001 OB. I've noticed a fuel treatment sometimes helps. Its so unpredicatable for me. Only happens from a dead stop mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes when warm.

  • I love the car but as all mechanical machines and devices with moving parts are concerned, I have some minor flaws that I am curious about.
    Recently I had a set of front brake pads installed and the mechanic says that in city traffic it is not unusual for this to take place after 20,000 miles, but he also told me that the Subie 2002 WRX wagon doesn't really need any upgrade to the factory braking system. I had suggested Brembo 4 pot system like the one they have on the STI high performance car. Does the quality of the brake pad help with the duration between service or just stopping power? I drive the car somewhat aggressively but not crazy. I like to test it's sportiness every once and awhile, and also commute to work about 50 miles a day 25 miles each way.

    BTW, my Honda Accord had horrible braking issues, and after 150,000 miles I was sinking more money than a new car payment would amount to each month. I think Toyota and Subaru are much more mechanic friendly than Honda. I also had electrical problems in the Honda. Well thats all for now I love my WRX!
  • rangnerrangner Posts: 336
    Hey all,

    I've been having some problems with my 2000 OB breather coming loose and causing noise. I took it to the dealer last and they tightened it down, but it's come loose again and I'd rather do it myself than pay them again. Does anybody know where the breather is, or how I might do it?
  • I have 22500 miles on my stock brake pads (02 WRX), and still going strong. I brake fairly hard when needed too, but I could certainly see them wearing faster if you have a lot of heavy traffic. Do you have an auto, that could make it worse too?

    If you do decide to go with 4-pot brakes, you'll need 17" wheels too, also Brembos are $$$..
  • rob999rob999 Posts: 233
    Eric: are you referring to the air cleaner box or inlet?

    Regardless, if you paid for a repair yesterday and it's noisy they should fix it for free. Most repairs are warranted.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For a year, I agree.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm still on my stock pads on my '98 Forester, and they've been quiet the whole time. Knock on wood.

  • 44k on original pads and still performing just fine. 01 Legacy GT 5MT.

  • rangnerrangner Posts: 336
    I don't know. I got it repaired at the end of this past july (30th). I called the dealer and they're unclear as to whether they'll charge me for it or not. They just tell me to bring it in--which is for me a bit of a chore. It's about an hour drive to the dealer, so if its something simple I'd rather do it myself.
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