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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Well since the Sube was moving and the truck stationary......we get to the :
               
           force= weight x speed squared

    The poor truck took a pretty good shot depending on how fast the Suby got moving down the slope prior to impact. Amplified by the size of the impacting point.

    OK....just a comment.....GO SUBY!
  • I don't know about that idahodaug, I backed into an F150 at <5mph and cracked the front bumper. It wasn't an offset impact either, it was my sube's rear bumper straight into his front. $400+ just for the bumper on the ford. no damage except a two new scratch marks in the plastic bumper cover for the sube. HAHA! I still get a kick at the look of amazment on the Ford driver's face when he compare the damage to his truck vs my sube. (not that I am happy I got into the fender bender in the first place)

    Mike
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Just stopping in to say hello! Been reading the board, but, haven't had much to contribute. Very busy getting ready for winter too. Sorry to hear about your mishap Bit.

    Greg
  • I do worry about there being unseen damage. The visual inspections the body shops have done looked for stress marks, cracked paint and misaligned panels but found none. Infact it seems the bumper deflection made no noticeble contact with the sheetmetal. Once the bumper cover is removed more damage might be evident. We even went over the tailgate with a fine tooth comb since it was open and did put a dent in the top of the PU cab. The only damage to the tailgate is a slight scuff on the interior trim. But overall the gate fits perfectly and there is no sign of stress either on the exterior or at the attachment points.

    It still is amazing that the point of contact worked out so well in my favor. Seeing how the truck is a Silverado 4X4 and sits high(ish) and I have a Legacy and not the higher OB. Contact was mainly between right side of my rear bumper and just above the lower door edge of the truck. Additional contact was from the rest of my bumper and the cab body and bed.

    I suppose I could have it checked on a frame machine... or maybe get a 4 wheel alignment just to check.

    Thanks for all the replies.

    bit
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,922
    just my 2 cents, but after what you went through with the sunroof on your first GT you do not need all the second guessing that you are getting now.

     If on close inspection everything looks okay it probably is, even though the tailgate was open it is hardly likely that the car was rolling fast enough to do massive hidden damage.

      I would venture to say that I am at least as fussy as you with my car, and this impact would hardly cause me to lose any sleep, fix it and forget it.

      Cheers Pat.
  • Have looked through postings for other issues and found success. Hope that someone will be kind enough to help me out.

    Am owner of Forester ( 2000) . Have a terrible rattle in dash ( right side ) . Was there since 2600 clicks. Dealer cannot seem to fix it. Now it is evident on left side ( but not as pronounced) and on occasion in the centre of the dash.

    Noise seems to be near the front part of the dash( near the windshield) .

    Noise is very loud when going over rough pavement.( sounds like two pieces hitting together really fast almost not secured ). Does not have to even be that rough ( could be as slight as a manhole cover or joint on the highway). Is noticeable when driving normal city speed( 50 km and above ) but is slowly starting to become evident at slower speed if the road is extremely rough.

    Typically, the dealer cannot duplicate the sound. One dealer told me that he heard it but did not know what it was. Nice!!!

    Have removed everything from glove box -- noise still persists.

    Any help / thoughts / solutions would be greatly appreciated.
  • Thanks. Means a lot coming from you. I did my best "OCD" routine already on this one and am happy with what I see.

    But now I gotta pick the body shop to do the work. The big fancy shop, the shop the Soob dealer uses or the small 2 person shop that also did some of the nice street rods in town. The latter getting the largest number of positive referrals. But then again ts only the bumper...

    bit
  • rob999rob999 Posts: 233
    My OB had a rattle up in the same area. It was the connection between the vent grille and the HVAC duct pipe.

    Find a rough road and have your front passenger (unless you have long arms and can reach) press on the vent grille to see if the timbre of the vibration changes at all. That may be the problem.

    I popped the plastic vent grille out. It's shaped like a funnel, where the small end connects to the supply pipe and the large end opens up into the grille. I folded some electricians tape into the inside of the small end to ensure a tighter fit and that took care of the problem.

    If you take the vent grill out, also check any wiring harness(es) behind there to make sure that they're not rattling against the ductwork or back side of the glove box. Tape or tie-wrap as required. That may have been a contributor to my dash rattle as well - I taped down part of a loose harness that was just behind the vent grille.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    If it makes you feel any better, you could try to reproduce part of the crash -- just to see how fast the car was rolling when it gets to where the truck was (just STAY IN THE CAR this time around!). My bet is that it was not rolling too fast.

    The parts on the truck were sheet metal, and the wagon's back bumper is pretty solid (beam+foam+cover). It makes sense to me that the truck had a lot of damage and, in direct correspondance, that the wagon had very little. I think the truck's sheet metal dissipated most of the crash energy. The foam under the wagon's bumper may have been compressed, but I bet that's the extent of the "hidden" damage. If the car drives straight and all the doors and hatch operate correctly, that's a very good sign.

    Craig
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The reason the ford took on more damage was that trucks don't have 5mph bumpers. My trooper has a paper thin steel or aluminum beam behind the plastic bumper. When I took it off to put on my ARB it was about 5-10lbs max. Now if you hit that F150 at say 25mph, I'd not want to be in the subie personally.

    -mike
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I agree with Pat. I wouldn't worry. As for the body shop - I tend to go with smaller establishments with good ratings on most things.

    Greg
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,922
    I would also go with the shop that has the highest approval whether big or small, what you might also want to ask, is do they use a computer colour match system?

     A lot of shops are now using this technology to get the best colour match on weathered paint, even though your car is only 3 years old and been well cared for there will be some fading of the paint.

     And not to give you additional worry, white is a notorious colour to properly match, not saying it cannot be done, I have a painter who can match any colour just using his eyes and expertise.

      Cheers Pat.
  • Got the estimate on the truck...$6k. I'll post pictures of both vehicles later this week.

    Thanks for the tip on the paint.

    bit
  • Thanks for the tip re: rattle in dash.

    Will try the suggestion ( am keeping my fingers crossed that it will work).
  • Have looked through postings for other issues and found success.Hope that someone is kind enough to help me out.

    Am owner of Forester ( no longer under warranty). Have terrible rattle in dash ( right side; passenger air bag and behind) Was there since 2600 clicks . Dealer cannot seem to fix it. Now is evident on left side ( but not as loud and on occasion in the centre of the dash.

    Noise seems to be near the front part of the dash ( near the windshield)

    Noise is very loud when going over rough pavement( sounds like two pieces hitting together really fast ; almost not secured) Does not have to even be that rough ( could be manhole cover or joint on the highway)Is noticeable when driving normal city speeds ( 50 to 60 km and above)but is becoming more evident at slower speeds.

    Typically , the dealer cannot duplicate the sound. One dealer told me that he heard it but did not know what it was. Nice!!!

    Have removed everyting from glove box-- noise still persists. Hood seems to be secure.

    Any help /thoughts / solutions would be greatly appreciated.
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    This may be a long shot but I had a rattle that I could not track down coming from roughly the same location you mentioned. I was convinced it was in the dash. Mine ended up being a broken strut mount. I could not detect any driving differences but it must have had a big enough defect to make the noise when loaded, like going over a bump.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Check the exhaust heat shields, also. That's a common source of noise.

    -juice
  • ballisticballistic Posts: 1,687
    Have terrible rattle in dash ( right side; passenger air bag and behind)

    My '04 XT has had the exact same severe low-frequency buzz in the same location (just under the surface of the dashtop in the passenger airbag area) since it was brand new last June. It doesn't rattle on really smooth pavement, but on slightly rough surfaces (especially on worn concrete where studded tires have exposed the pebbles), it's horrible. Haven't had time to get it back for warranty correction, but if the dealer is unable to eliminate this, it's going to be a major problem.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,922
    Bit, they don't make trucks like they used to, but six grand is a lot, I sure would like to see some pics. of the damage.

      Cheers Pat.
  • Thanks to all who offered suggestions re: dash rattle. Will try all tips.

    Am keeping my fingers crossed that something will work.
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