Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • With 6 dealers (at least) in the Bay Area why do you torture yourself by going back to the one you feel so negative about? Ron Price in SSF is less than 15 miles form Carlsen. Carlsen's prices compare very favorably with the other dealers. You can easily buy a car from them for 2.5 percent or less over invoice... perhaps a lot less right now. But the bottom line is with so many dealer within a 30 mile radius why suffer with one you hate. It makes no difference where you get the service even if it is not the dealer you bought from. You can still develop a good relationship with a service department elsewhere.

  • Your manual says every 7500 miles and front to back. More frequent rotation wouldn't hurt of course.

  • jackleungjackleung Posts: 79
    By the time I buy my S+ 3 months ago, I never care what price they wrote on the web, just sent email quote to ALL dealership around (For me, I get reply from SSF, Livemore, Santa Cruz. The only 2 I didn't get reply to was Carlsen coz their webpage was down at that time and StevenCreek didn't even reply to me). Then use their emails as a weapon, just stay at home and watch the dealerships to fight w/ themselves for what lowest price they can give. At the end, Charles (I love his instant email response and no hassle maner) at SSF Ron Price gave me $350 over invoice which I think is resonable at that time. I believe U can get lower than that since the fall of the stock market.

    (hee hee, isn't my flag cool?)

  • anibalbanibalb Posts: 193

    I realize what you are saying. When I wanted to buy my car I looked in the yellow pages and all I found was the dealer in Walnut Creek. I just found that there is a Dealer in Oakland. Someone mentioned it in a post a while back. It is too bad I only found these posts after I bought my car and not before. But I look at it as a learning experience. Afterall it is the first new car I buy. I will be a lot smarter when I get the next one. Maybe in 4 years I will look to get a new one. Thanks for the advice Bitman.

    Folks, how do you calculate depreciation on your Subies? I am wondering what my outback will be worth in 2005, when I am sure I will want the new one. Any ideas?
  • leomortleomort Posts: 451
    When looking at the Foresters(looking at the automatic transmission), one of the differences between the L and S trim was the S trim had limit-slip rear differential. How does this work and how is it different than the L model.

    second question on the S model regarding rear disc brakes. how much better are they than the rear drum brakes in the L trim?

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    In 5 years, your Outback ought to hold roughly half its value. That's about a good a guess as any - there are too many factors for an accurate forecast that far into the future.

    Leo: the L has an open rear diffy, while the S has a viscous limited-slip diffy. If one rear wheel slips, the diffy locks and send the power to the other wheel with traction. The S will have better traction in situations where one rear wheel has no grip (ice, for example).

    Having said that, my L performs just fine in snow even withouth it.

    Disc brakes are more linear and resist fade better than drums. Even though the fronts do the bulk of the work, since weight transfers forward during braking, the rear discs helped the S obtain the best stopping distances ever for a small SUV by C&D. I'm sure the 60 series tires also help.

    If you can afford it, spring for the S. I have the L, but sometimes I wish I had the S for all the extras (especially the heated seats).

  • russ9406russ9406 Posts: 30
    I just did a once over and have discovered a few paint chips, picked up over the winter. Now that the weather is getting warmer here on Long Island, I was planning to do some touch up.

    I have the small bottle of Subaru paint.

    Please advise on best methods to do a good job?

    Is the paint clear coat?

    What type of Paint thinner to use? (paint in bottle seems thick)

    Best method for prep?

    What to use to remove wax?

    Other suggestions?

  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    I think your dealer will be calling you about the key charge. Hang in there for a bit, please.

  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    We recommend a variance of not more than 1/4 inch in the tire diameter. The easiest way that I've heard to check this is to:

    1. Check all tire pressures to make sure they are even

    2. Use a piece of string to measure the actual diameter as close to center as you can. Do all four tires and you'll see if which, if not all you need to change.

    Oh, how techie of me, huh?

  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Thanks for the tire tip, Patti!

  • anibalbanibalb Posts: 193

    What do you mean by your post saying the dealer will be calling me? Also, do you work for Subaru Patti? Sometimes it seems you do. Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Patti is a subaru rep for SOA in NJ. When she calls a dealer they listen to her! :)

  • logger2logger2 Posts: 31
    Hey, I ve gone throught the whole complaints process here in Canada with my forester with no luck. They dont want to have anything to do with me. As far as they are concerned the issues i raised are my problems. Is there anything else i can do on your end? Does subaru usa have anything to do with the canadian counterparts. Im just frustrated that they wont do a thing under the circumstances. Thanks a lot

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    From what I recall your car was a used one, so a lot of stuff that subaru would normally be inclined to do probably aren't possible since God only knows what kind of damage could have been done by the 1st owner. It's a shame they haven't done anything good, but I can understand their side of the story sorta. Maybe patti can help.

  • hammersleyhammersley Posts: 684
    Juice: 15x7, Michelin X-one, 205/70. Too much tread on 'em to waste, but they sure are noisy! A wee bit wider stance, thus I'm interacting with the edges of the road grooves rather than the centers. Makes the steering a bit busier, but nothing spectacular.

    Rotation: I rotate every spring, front to rear. Since I only put about 10k miles/year & have 2 sets of tires, seems to work well. My snows are directional, so they have to stay on the same side of the car. Just to be consistent, I do the summer tires the same way.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wider rims are always a good thing. Sounds good.

    Russ: I just clean with my regular car wash detergent, dry thoroughly, and apply straight out of the bottle, nice and steady.

    Most of the paints are metallic. To get a new clear coat on, you'd really have to repaint the entire panel.

  • snizavesnizave Posts: 19
    Well, guys, the clutch went out on my car. I was driving home for some R&R over spring break, and barely got out of town when the clutch just totally went out on my 92 legacy. After much discussion with my dad and uncle, we came to the conclusion that the fingers went through on the clutch. I'm still not totally sure exactly what that means, but they seemed to know what they were talking about. Sure enough, the shop said I'd need a new clutch, and of course they noticed some other problems. They said the boots needed replaced. This sounded reasonable since the car does have close to 90k and i've only had it the past 8,000 miles, so who knows what went on before that. The shop said the clutch cost $280, and the boots were $100 each. With $200 labor and tax, the total was around 750. Does that sound reasonable? I think so, but i want to make sure i'm not being totally ripped off. Thanks everyone for making this place an awesome resource!

    P.S.- Patti, could you convince SOA to pay for the repairs? ;) I don't really have any money right now, but someday I will and i will buy many subarus with it. Tell them it would be a great investment in today's impoverished students :) Just kidding, but i do want to once again let you know how awesome you are and we all appreciate you!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I paid $400 for front boots and axles, so IMHO that's pretty cheap. I think I'm starting to have tranny problems on my '88 which I'm not looking forward to :(

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    That does sound like a pretty fair price for everything. By the way, what your dad & uncle are referring to is the fingers on the pressure plate (also referred to as the clutch cover diaphragm).
    Left, pressure plate. Right, clutch disc.
    See the middle of the pressure plate? There's the fingers. Basically this is the equivalent of a spring going flat.

  • miksmimiksmi Silver Spring, MDPosts: 1,246
    Colin, thanks for the photos and explanation.

    snizave, on a 91 Legacy (and perhaps your 92), there are two CV boots on the right transaxle. The incremental cost of replacing both over just one was marginal so I replaced both (slightly more for 2 boots + transaxle, labor similar). I'd inspect the other boots and replace them if they're marginal (if you're keeping the car for a while).

    BTW is your 92 FWD or AWD? My 91 was a FWD.

    Those rates are reasonable for Washington, DC and a bargain if a dealer's doing the work.

    Welcome to the forum and thanks for expressing appreciation for the fine folks here.



Sign In or Register to comment.