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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    My Evo came originally equipped with similar summer tires as an STi has, and it had a warning sticker on the driver's door, near the grab handle to get out, stating that the tires were SUMMER ONLY performance models and completely unsuitable for wintry driving conditions.

    Thus, my Evo now has 245/45-17 Dunlop WinterSport M3 on it. They work great.

    Btw, the summer-only tire warning was also in the owner's manual.

    ~Colin
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    If you end up replacing the OEM tires on the STi, I have put a set of Nokian WR's on my 06 Outback. They are great in the snow. They do have the "snowflake" symbol on them so they should perform well in the snow for you also. They also have a treadwear rating of 400 which means you "should" be able to run them year round if you choose to. I think I will still put my OEM tires back on in the spring just to save some wear on the Nokian's, but there are people that run them year round.

    Watch out though. The price is enough to choke a horse. But sometimes you have to pay to play.

    Karl
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I was told to try snow tires, but in the same breathe I was told that it might not help

    Keep in mind he was given bad advice. Horrible advice, actually. Whoever said that simply should not be in the automotive industry at all.

    Kinda scary, actually. I'd look for another dealer entirely.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,663
    Here ya go...

    http://www.drive.subaru.com/Fall04_RoadTrips.htm

    Glenn Wallace and his STI taking part in the Alcan Rally a couple of years ago. I think he came in 2nd or 3rd overall.

    Do you think his STI was wearing the stock summer tires? Not likely. ;)

    Bob
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Yeah, I will echo the other posts -- see those cue-balls on each corner of the car? -- they are ultra high performance summer tires and should not be used below about 35F in any conditions, and you'd be absolutely nuts to drive them in snow or ice. The good news is that the tires are awesome in warm weather, and if you put winter tires on the STi, it will be awesome in winter weather too. If you are averse to having multiple sets of tires, then perhaps look for a high-performance all season tire you can run year round (though, it will offer sub-par winter performance and poorer handling than dedicated winter and summer tires, respectively).

    I have summer tires on my Honda S2K that are similar to what's on the STi. For everyone's safety, the car stays parked in the garage if temps are below 35F or if any winter weather is imminent.

    Craig
  • joeb24joeb24 Posts: 111
    Hello Karl - I am also thinking about replacing the OEM Bridgestone Potenzas on my 2006 Outback LL Bean with the Nokian WRs. Have you ( or anybody else) found the ride harsher with the Nokians? Also, did you have to replace the stems when you put the new tires on? I have a "tire pressue warning system" on my Outback with pressure sensitive stems. Dealer says the stems have to be replaced, at $80 each! I don't see why the same stems can't be used with the new tires?
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    I only had the OEM tires on for a week before I made the swap so take this for what it is worth...

    I actually like the ride better. It does not seem at all harsh to me. We just had about 10 inches of snow here in Minneapolis and I can say that I think the tires are great in the snow.

    I too have the TPMS. I put the WR's on the factory rims and kept my OEM tires for later use. This does not effect the sensors in any way since you can just keep the sensors and valve stems in the rim. I think I will put the Potenza's back on in the spring just to save some wear on the Nokian's. With a treadwear rating of 400, people say you can run the Nokian's year round. However, they are so expensive I am inclined to use them only as a winter tire, but we'll see.

    So in summary, I have the OEM rims with the OEM pressure sensors. I simply swapped tires. I was thinking about buying used OEM rims with pressure sensors off of one of many websites. The only issue is that I have been told that the car needs to re-learn the new sensors and only a Subaru dealer can do that for you. I don't know if this is true or not. Someone said their dealer did this for them for $25, but I can have the tires swapped for $40 at Discount Tire. It seems like a waste to buy rims to only save $15 per swap.

    Let me know if you have further questions.

    Karl
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    If you're using the same rims, then the existing stems are all you need. Most people get new rims for their winter tires, which would require new stems if you want to keep TPMS active. Maybe that's what the dealer is assuming.

    Craig
  • Surprise, surprise! After my 80,000 mile warranty was up on my 2002 Subaru Outback (sedan), my check engine light came on. This is a bit lengthy, I apologize but I have to take you back to about 4 months ago: I started hearing a rattling sound coming from my front end only when lightly accelerating. Several mechanics told me it was the heat shield on the cat conv. and that it wasn't a real concern. I was given the option to have it "ripped off" by one mechanic and didn't feel comfortable with that so declined the offer. The next mechanic said he could tighten it, and so I allowed it but it still continued to rattle. Recently my CEL lit up and I initially thought it was the gas cap (it's happened before) & I followed the steps necessary to clear it up - which didn't work. When I took it in to get an oil change, they hooked it up to there computer and it came up with a cat conv issue. When I left the shop that day, I suddenly started hearing a whistling noise as I increased speed to pass another car. I was told that this would be a symptom of the cat getting clogged and got even more concerned. Today I got the cat replaced and a whole tune up. On my 1 hour drive home from the mechanic, I tested it out and I still hear the whistling (although not as loud) and 45 min into the drive, the CEL lit up again. It's an understatement to say that I am concerned about this. If somebody can shed a little light on this matter it would be GREATLY appreciated!
  • check air cleaner box sometimes the bottom wont get latched (over looked by the installer)pull up on the air cleaner cover and see if the bottom moves as you pull up .
    This can cause whistling and other noises . I never heard a plugged convertor make noise like whistling. Also check air inlet boot for any damage .
  • There is no fix? My manual still puts out very warm air. Does that mod work that is being offered on the internet?
  • One cold morning my 2000 Subaru Forester 74k miles failed to heat up the cabin. My check engine had cycled on/off and was on at the time. I noticed the engine temp gage in red zone. I slowed down and temp went down. I decided to go direct to dealer thinking my eng. thermostat was stuck. I asked also for an oil change. The dealer PATRICK SUBARU of Shrewsbury, MA called me to say I needed new head gaskets $1775 and new oxygen sensor $285. I was shocked and said I could not afford it. He said he would talk to his boss and maybe I could get 10% off. I said I still could not afford it and hung up. He also strangely enough asked if I still wanted the oil change. While I was trying to contact my mechanic, he called again and offered 50% off, so I said ok. But I was now very suspicious. I went on line and discovered that blown head gaskets were a common problem for 2.5L SOHC engines, and if you had the dealer add a can of stop leak each time the coolant was serviced, the head gasket warrantee would be extended to 8yrs/100k mi. Next morning I confronted the dealer. He said the reason they agreed to split the cost was due to this common faulty gasket (he didn't say this up-front). I showed him the record of the same dealer adding the stop leak. He showed me the subaru papers that said the full coverage was for gaskets the leaked 'externally' and mine was leaking 'internally'. I went home,called Subaru of America and explained the story. When I said I did not think external vs internal should matter... the gaskets are BAD, he asked for my vehicle VIN number. He called the dealer immediatey, then called me back right away and said the dealer would replace the gaskets for free. Great! I picked up my car, the dealer made no apologies, and charged me for the sales tax on the gaskets, plus some other questionable charges, it seemed he was trying to charge me as much as possible. The car runs real good so far, but I do not trust the dealer. Anyone who is diagnosed with this problem should get their VIN and call Subaru of America and ask about the WWP-99 Service Campaign.
  • not sure which mod you are refering to.

    If you check back in the Forester discussion, you can find some detail regarding the "fix" which essentially consisted of a micro-fan blowing air across the temp sensor of Hal, thereby increasing response time.

    But, the next year Subaru came out with a new improved unit (was it a 7 speed fan?)IIRC.

    John
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Very good advice that we're well aware of here, but I wonder how many people that are not savvy enough to search the web pay for the repair. It's too bad the dealer was trying to take advantage of the situation and rip you off. I think it was a great move on your part to 1) be suspicious and 2) call SOA. They are usually real fair with stuff like this.

    Craig
  • jklepjklep Posts: 2
    Help. I just replaced the battery on my 2000 Forester -first new battery --less than 70K miles on the car. When I hook up the new battery the running and dashboard light flash on and off non stop. No key, nothing turned on. It's totally bizarre. I'm quite sure I got tyhe correct replacement battery. It has 800 regular cranking amps and 640 cold cranking amps. Any ideas what's up with this? I'm stumped. :confuse: Greatest thanks.
  • jklepjklep Posts: 2
    guess I needed to reset the remote keyless entry. Thanks anyway. :blush:
  • mrk610mrk610 Posts: 378
    Just picke up my filter from the dealer and wow it is half the size of the old one . Can this be right
    02 outback 2.5l 4eat .

    Mike
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Looks too narrow to get a lot of snow off the windshield. You'd have to clear it first.

    Aren't we already supposed to do that :)

    I'd installed them recently.
    Very clean and dry wipe on the first pass in light and heavy rain.
    Handled sleet quite the same.
    Haven't gotten to use them during snow.

    -Dave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    We are supposed to, yes. ;)

    A lot people don't. I actually do.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I just got my scanner, pretty neat. It reads and clears codes.

    My wife got two P0442 codes, aka "EVAP emission control system leak - small" - guess what? Loose gas cap. My wife had place the gas cap back on but not tightened it. Oops.

    Tightened it, reset the code, test drove it and it was fine.

    Forester got a P0302 code, "Cylinder 2 misfire". Still troubleshooting that one, I think it's the old spark plug wires (81k miles, original). The plugs were new at 60k, so I don't think that's it. The fuel filter was also swapped out at 60k.

    So I have a scanner if anyone in the DC/MD area wants to borrow it. It's very easy to use, the plug is right under the dash on the driver's side.

    It's very useful to know what the code is. As you can see my wife's was harmless. I paid $105 delivered, a dealer charges $84 just to scan one car. So mine already paid for itself.

    -juice
  • Juice, I had a "mis-fire" code CEL very early on for my Forester. Dealer said it was a computer error and sent my unit back for reprogramming.

    Not sure what constitutes a genuine "mis-fire" condition. I have had the engine run very rough (no doubt with misfires) after hosing down the engine compartment. But no CELs resulted. I bet it depends on where the "mis-fire" originates--if it is at the spark plug or wire level, I doubt it would trigger. The sensor would need to be back at the distributor level, but may be triggered by a resistance range (indicating either a direct short, or an open circuit). Something in between that has a spark jump (eg a broken insulation on a wire that allows spark to jump) probably doesn't trigger a mis-fire.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wonder what that would cost, given mine's not under warranty.

    I might change the wires anyway, see if it makes a difference. 81k miles is a lot, on my Miata I have to change them every 30k!

    -juice
  • wires are cheap, I picked up a set from Liberty Subaru just to fill in my oil filter order.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I don't see them on the web site, did you call in your order?

    Follow-up question - do they take Subaru Bucks? I have $300 saved up. :)

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    If not, I know 1stsubaruparts takes Subaru Bucks. I have always been very pleased with their service. IIRC you provide a CC number so they can charge everything if you do not send the Subaru Bucks in like agreed upon.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for reminding me. It's been a couple of years but that's who took them last time. I didn't find plug wires, though.

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Their web page has become less than stellar. Just call the phone number listed. They are great over the phone and pull up the correct part numbers based on VIN. I think the guys name is Jason, but I am not certain.
  • Just e-mail them, Juice.

    Russ is the guy that usually quotes me.

    For some reason, their e-mail quote has been considerably cheaper than the prices on their web page. About 20%, IIRC.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    To both of you. I'm waiting for a call back from 800-SUBARU3 to troubleshoot the code and symptoms (shaky idle), so I'm waiting since I have to use the Subaru Bucks in $100 increments.

    -juice
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