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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    Thanks a bunch! Great photos, as always!

    I'm off to Pep Boys to buy some supplies!

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    You'll need a ratchet drive like juice mentioned above. I think it's 1/2" like he said.
    You can get a special funnel from the parts store that screws onto the bottle. Then just tip the bottle up and pour it in. Some gear oils (M1 I think) come with a pointed bottle top so you might not need a funnel.
    edit: You guys are fast. You'd think this was a chat.
    Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Those are actually someone else's photos. That guy makes me look like an amateur!

    I doubt a funnel along will work, because you can't get above the fill hole (it's the upper hole, pretty far up there). You'll probably need tubing or a pump.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    The funnel I'm talking about is basically a screw-on cap with a tube coming out. It also comes with a plastic extension tube. It's made especially for differentials. Actually, it's more like a spout.
    Dennis
  • I have RedLine 75-90NS for the tranny and 75-90 for the dif. I bought them just before I traded my 00 for the 01 so now I have to wait until I get to 8-10k miles before I switch. These are the products recommended by a tech at Redline. He says the 75-90NS is formulated to no be too slippery for the syncros. Yes I did read all the postings on i-club so we will see.

    BTW - Juice did you see the June issue of Sport Compact Car mag? 55 new tuner parts for the Miata.

    bit
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Thanks for all your responses, folks. I got the pump and some M1 75W90 from Pep Boys. I hope this does the trick in quieting down that whining noise.

    I was going to install the Kartboy shifter today so now I'll have something to do while the oil drains!

    The one strange thing about the noise is that it only happens at part throttle. Is that consistent with a diffy noise?

    Ken
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    I can't say what it is, but the info. you are getting here is good. I would still recommend you get a dealer to check it out now. Even if it is "normal" or they can't here it, it is documented that you are hearing it in warranty. If it is in warranty, you shouldn't have to pay for the check. Also, call us and let us start a case. That way, if something happens down the road we are aware of it. If you call the 800 number, tell them that I referred you. Your call will be handled well even if you don't ask them to tell me, but if they do, I can keep an eye on it.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    A friend asked me about a problem with her 97 legacy. I post elsewhere so I thought this would be a good place to ask.

    She says that the car lurches? I guess when accelerating it doesn't engage right away? She shifts and then gives it gas, it seems underpowered and the revs don't go up, then it all of a sudden takes off? Almost like their is an injector problem?

    Any ideas?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure how many miles are on it, but sounds like a tune up. I have a similar problem occassionally with the XT6.

    -mike
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Well, I tried changing the rear diffy oil, but the plugs were waaaaay over torqued and I couldn't crack them open. Looks like I'll have to have some shop do it for me or go see a Subaru dealer.

    Patti: Thanks for the input. I completely agree that your way is the right way. I just thought that a quick oil change might save me the trouble of having to go to the dealer. As you might know, the closest dealer I trust (Santa Cruz) is far away from both work and home. Given that I couldn't open the plugs, I think I just may take it to a dealer.

    BTW, did you mean to say that I should start a case in conjunction with visiting a dealer?

    Ken
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    Yes. Seeing the dealer alone and getting a repair order is fine, but if we have a case documenting your concern, we can keep track of the situation.

    Sorry for the agg of having to travel to the dealer!

    Patti
  • vincer2vincer2 Posts: 97
    I'm entering the 2nd warm weather cycle with my 2000 OB and the engine pinging has started again. Whenever the air temperature is >70 the intermittent pinging and knocking starts. Last night the pinging was loud enough to be considered knocking. Most of the time the pinging and knocking is the loudest after driving 10 to 20 miles in warm weather, turning the engine off for a brief period and then driving it again.

    Service manager says its normal and that Subaru has no official statement on engine pinging. My limited knowledge about pre-ignition pinging is that its normal during hard acceleration or going up a "steep" hill. If its supposed to ping then I'm confused why it doesn't always ping and knock. Last night the pinging was more of a knock and it was occurring while holding a steady speed of 40 mph on level ground (no acceleration or hill climbing involved), A/C off and auto trans in 4th gear.

    Last summer the dealer changed the knock sensor but it didn't help. I've tried switching brands of gas and that hasn't helped either. Running high octane gas does reduce the intensity of the pinging but that's an expensive fix.

    I believe excessive pinging and knocking can damage the valves and lead to carbon buildup. Should I be concerned about this?

    Anyone have any suggestions or advice?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Vince
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Bit: there is an abundance of tuner parts for the Miata. Unfortunately, they are pricey and I don't have an abundance of funds!

    Sean: I'd guess it's the tranny. Sounds to me like it starts in 2nd gear, kind of hesitating, and when you give it gas it shifts down to first and then surges forward.

    It'll only get worse, so have it serviced ASAP, is my advice.

    Patti: can we ask that dealers watch out for torque specs? It seems that every bolt I encounter is over-torqued as well. Aren't those air wrenches adjustable?

    Vince: warm air is less dense, so I'm puzzled. When you compress cooler air it actually has a higher effective compression ratio.

    Either way, does not sound normal to me at all.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    If it's a severe hesitation, it could be affected by this TSB: http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/tsb.htm


    This was a problem in some 5-speed '97 Subes. Mine has it and my former dealer blamed it on a loose vacuum hose. A week later, it started happening again. It always happens after every oil change so I just got used to re-setting the ECU regularly by disconnecting the battery for 30 min.
    Otherwise, it might just need a tune-up.
    Dennis

  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    I'm very interested in your problem as my wife's 99 Forester L w/auto has been pinging and knocking since we got it and funny thing is the dealer can't duplicate it or won't try and were told its normal. I have run from 87 octane to 93 and it still does it, but your right, it is more noticable in the summer. The Forester even makes the pinging sound even when de-accellerating which is strange. Post any changes or repair if you would.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Patti: I took your advice and called SOA to set up case#303042 with your referal. I spoke to Mike -- very friendly and courteous.

    juice: I agree. I was trying everything possible to get those plugs open. I even tried gently pushing on my ratchet handle with my foot since I had little leverage under the Forester. Those things are welded shut!

    Ken
  • vincer2vincer2 Posts: 97
    juice,
    while the warmer air is less dense it is probably also increasing the operating temperature of the engine enough to cause pre-ignition which in turn is causing the pinging and knocking.
    vince
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Vince,

    I've got a similar pinging problem that gets worse as the weather warms. Super unleaded seems to help, but it's expensive. I'm taking the district service rep. out on Monday so he can hear the problem. Unless they've redesigned the knock sensor (or mine is defective), I'm guessing that won't solve the problem. I'm wondering if a new computer might fix it? Any other suggestions to look at? I'm also having a problem with the new MAF sensor creating a shaking at idle. (Idle is smooth but the engine shakes.)

    Eric
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    That was it...the dealer reset the computer and everything is fine! Though I told my friend that she should ask for more than just a resetting of the computer. I would think that if there was a problem once it might re-appear soon?
  • vincer2vincer2 Posts: 97
    Eric,
    I'm leaving the car with the dealer next Wed and they can have it as long as needed to troubleshoot and correct the problem. One remote possibility is they changed a defective knock sensor with a new defective knock sensor.

    Service manager indicated he wants to check a few items but wasn't specific.

    Please post any info you receive. I'll post a response after I pick up my car in a week or so.

    Vince
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    I agree. If it is the problem related to the TSB, they should replace the ECM (ECU). They're probably taking the cheapest/easiest way out to rule out for now though. Hope they didn't charge a lot for that since it's an easy DIY job. In my case, it comes back within a week of an oil change. I'm out of warranty so I got used to just re-setting it instead of paying for a new one.
    Dennis
  • miche4miche4 Posts: 26
    I have not checked the board in awhile but I did go back to the messages in the 1411 plus talking about parts and dealerships. I posted several messages in regards to the noise from my 2001 Sub Forester S that I bought a year ago. Shortly after buying it I got a popping noise that sounded like it was coming from the back of the Forester. Since then I have taken it in 3 times. Finally my last visit after great feedback from here I called in to make the appointment with the dealership to have this problem finally just fixed! I asked him to make sure the latch parts and pieces were in stock and if not to have them ordered. I brought my Forester in, sat 3.5 hours, missed a half plus day of work, and was told by the mechanic that he will go ahead and order the part although it was probably due to "dust" and "rough" roads.

    The service manager at least made arrangements for a local repar shop near where I work to replace the latch. Two weeks later no word. I finally call and Subaru had had the part but no one called me on it. A friend who gets fridays off said he would take it in to have it fixed. However, we got hit with another snow storm and the highway was closed to due many rollovers and more! Studs came off a few days ago. Now I have to take more time off if my friend was not able to get the car in there before noon. He would have to sit there the rest of the day while the latch was being replaced.

    So to add to those posts about low to no inventory of parts something needs to be done. We have one dealership for the entire South Central area of Alaska and one in Fairbanks (8 hours drive north). In addition, Subaru is closed on the weekends so people like me have to take time off from work, drive 2 hours and then sit for hours and hours. There really should be more flexibility especially when probably more than half of the Alaskan population drive subarus!

    I hope SOA will help fix this problem if they can. If not then it is a major consideration in buying a vehicle. And again, like I said earlier, if the Subaru Forester can not handle a mile of non-pavement road then daily then they have a design problem. mich
  • dan2001dan2001 Posts: 17
    Just hit the 500 mile mark on my new LLBean H6. My first Subaru. Needed to fill up for the first time last week and noticed the premium gas' tag on the filler door. I never had a car that required premium. Will I damage the engine if I run midgrade all the time?
    Thanks, Dan
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    You might want to make time to read the owner's manual. ;-)

    Will you hurt the car? Nah, not unless you hear detonation and keep on the gas. If you hear something that sounds like muffled firecrackers, get off the gas. If this happens repeatedly, your car definitely needs higher octane.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Dan,

    The H6 was designed for premium. It will probably run on lower octane gas because of the knock sensor, but chances are it will run at lower performance.

    Ken
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    I'll ask our tech. group to "spread the word" on torque specs.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    Hi Vince and Eric -

    I'm not sure about a "ping" being normal. If you need help, call us.

    One thing that struck me was when you indicate it is in warm weather. Are you in an area where different fuel blends are used for summer and winter? I am aware that some summer blends can cause a ping. If your dealer is saying it's normal, can you ask if they mean normal for your area of the country?

    Patti
  • mikezakmikezak Posts: 95
    The last two mornings, as well as one time when I did not drive my 2001 Outback for over 6 hours, I experienced a noticable 'surge' when in my
    automatic transmission when going from 2nd to 3rd. This only happens ONCE, and never repeats doing so (ie. after making my first 'stop' at the corner).

    My Outback is only 1 month new with 2200 miles.

    Questions:

    1). What could be the cause(s)?
    2). What is the fix?
    3). Has anyonce else experienced this with their Outback?
    4). Should I be overly concerned?

    Since my nearest Subie Dealer is over 30+ miles away, I can not drive it there (even to leave it overnight -- a LONG walk back) to reproduce the situation?

    My thanks in advance for all who can supply some help.

    --

    Mike
    Plover, WI
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Mike: I'd have a dealer look at that tranny, maybe even flush the ATF. It could be the ECU but it would be near impossible to duplicate.

    Dan: Subaru says the H6 will even run on 87 octane. Just expect a little less pep, since it'll retard the timing as needed to prevent pinging. I read you lose about 4hp running 87 octane.

    -juice
  • miche4miche4 Posts: 26
    I just got my sub Forester 01 S back. The service center said there were problems with the entire rear hatch not just the latch. After 3 tries it is finally fixed!

    However, I went to change my oil on Saturday and to my surprise there is a hood cover that first needs to be removed! How? There are a number of screws but then there are two strange creatures that I am not sure how you remove them. So maybe you don't? If I knew changing the oil would be so difficult I would have had Subaru do it while fixing the rear door!

    I read all the comments on the crush washer but do not recall any thing about a hood cover! help. mich
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