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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • ... and that is how I will drive the OB XT once I can find / have time to drive another.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,687
    On the 4EAT, I believe it is between 1200 and 5500 RPMs, though I have not paid attention to the thresholds.

    I thought I would test this out on the way home last night to see the exact shift points. On the upper end, the automatic shift point while in manual mode is 6000 RPM. I was in second gear when I tested it, and the car was traveling at 70 mph when I hit 6000. It was not dependent on whether I was aggressively accelerating or not. If I stopped moving faster, say, at 5800 RPM, it just sat there in 2nd gear. As soon as the tachometer hit 6000, though, it shifted to 3rd.

    On the other end of the spectrum, the RPM seems more flexible. With solid, constant braking action, the car shifted from 4 to 3 at 900 RPM, from 3 to 2 at 800, and from 2 to 1 at 700.

    -Wes-
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • Hello. I have a 95 Subaru Impreza sportwagon it has 145000km or about 90000 miles Recently I started hearing a low knocking sound coming from the rear. It only happens under moderate or hard acceleration. There is no sound when cruising at any speed or when accelerating aslowly. Any hints of what it might be?
    Thanks
  • The problem was with a squeaky axle nut that needed to be changed and re-torqued. This one drove me nuts (no pun intended) and the dealer too. I don't think this is a common problem with the Forester because after a few posts in different forums nobody guessed it... but if you are experiencing these kinds of noises have them checked out.
  • hi all-have 2000 OB LTD MT-5 SPD OD. was told it had head gasket leak but noone mentioned Subaru covering it so i opted to ride it out til it got worse. i will be VERY upset if this is true. can you confirm this? because right now the car is running badly and i am thinking of replacing it but not with this dealer if they don't treat customers right!!! also i was told and paid for an engine flush-$110- is it right that i was duped yet again because the manual trans gets drained and not flushed.
    i really want another subie but not if they are going to soak me in the service dept!!!

    thanks
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Diver7-

    I know that Subaru did have a head gasket issue on the 2000 OB - that was my previous car and I had the head gaskets replaced under a TSB. If I remember correctly if there was a problem Subaru replaced them under warranty; if no existing problem then they were supposed to add a "conditioner" to the cooling system and extend the warranty to 80,000 miles.

    If your dealer is saying they have no knowwledge of this, contact SOA directly.

    Mark
  • I have a 2001 Forrester that had a head gasket problem. The car had about 110K when the probem occured. It was not covered by warrenty. The dealer gave me a run around to no end - they would not admit that head gaskets were ever a problem!! Go Figure - they jerked me around with various test which I paid for. I finally took it to a private or ind. garage and had the heads replaced for $1500. I would never go back to a dealer ever again.
  • kevin111kevin111 Posts: 991
    The driver-side rear of my '02 Subaru Impreza WRX with 108,000 miles bottoms out over bumps when I load in 3 other people. The suspension seems a little weak, and the left wheel sticks out slightly more than the right wheel on the rear.

    I am guessing that I need two new Struts and an Alignment, but wanted to check.

    One mechanic stated that I needed new springs, while a 2nd stated that I probably did not. The 2nd also stated I could get spacers for the springs if I was really worried about it.

    Front had the shocks replaced at 80K, not the springs, and seems to be fine.

    What should I do?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well at 100k I'd suggest new springs, you could get away with struts only if you wanted. I suggest KYB GR2s as "stock-like replacements"

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The naming is misleading because the springs are actually what absorb the bump impacts. The shocks simply calm down the springs so you don't keep bouncing.

    Payload is, what, about 850 lbs? Make sure you aren't carrying any unnecessary dead weight in the trunk.
  • 80k miles. Has slow drip underneath engine where engine & transmission meet. No evidence of leakage or staining around head. drips are behind engine oil pan. Very slow leak at this time, trying to trouble shoot without putting system under pressure. Oil is not contaminated. thanks in advance for your thoughts.
  • Does anyone have the Subaru specs to bench test a coil pack? My Haynes manual lists the ranges for two brands of coil packs, but the two brand new coils (Carquest, but with OEM markings on the case) do not meet those specs. The new ones are very close to the one on the car.

    Nearest dealer is >100 miles away, and the local parts stores don't stock them and must special order them, prepaid. I don't want to buy a new one if mine is good.

    '99 Legacy Outback 30th Anniv, 2.5L. Engine quit on the road, won't restart, trying to rule out causes. No trouble codes on OBDII reader.

    Thanks for any info available,
    TB
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    How many miles?

    Did you check the timing belt?

    -mike
  • 125K miles; timing belt is still intact and in good shape, new at 105K; Alternator bench test good, 2YO battery at 12v.

    TB
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Ok, cause I've seen some cars just die when the timing belt broke.

    Cross the alternator off the list and the timing belt.

    -mike
  • aathertonaatherton Posts: 617
    "... oil change and a few other things done on my '01 Forester two months ago at a local Valvoline.... they told me the CV joint was nicked and leaking grease onto the exhaust pipe, but that their work wouldn't have broken the CV joint....They say I have to replace both front axles... Can I build any sort of case against them? "

    Not the way you are going about it. Are you saying an oil change place nicked two boots such that both CV joints lost lube and were ruined? Is this physically possible? To cut both boots? During an oil change? For a slow loss of lube to ruin 2 joints in a few days? Is Valvoline competent to make such statements? Why do you believe an oil change shop about such a technical and serious matter? It sounds like nonsense.

    Take your car to a Subaru dealer for evaluation. It is possible that there is nothing wrong with the boots or joints, and that the oil change shop merely got motor oil all over the headers and heat shields and plastic pans and boots.
  • I would like to get into the space under the center console to run wiring for blue tooth in car system. I have not figured out how to access that space. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Consumers Union just published a new report on the Legacy (cousin to the Outback) and while the liked the car overall, two things made them downrate it considerably:

    1. Tail swing out during emergency manuevers (they couldn't get stability control on that model)
    2. Engine (2.5 i ) was less responsive than the other cars they have tested.

    Not sure what will fix either of these short of waiting for an all new chassis and engine....
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 685
    In addition they commented on the reduced interior room compared to the others....perhaps a greater influence in their rating. With the present engine and full time all wheel drive little performance enhancement is likely.

    Perhaps direct injection would make a significant difference. But when???
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    I believe 2010 is the year direct injection is expected to debut. Also, use of VDC is growing greatly throughout the lineup. It's standard on Tribeca, all Imprezas but the base model, and I believe will be standard on the new Forester. In the Legacy & Outback it's available on the Limited models, and on the turbo & 6-cyl AT models, but it's not available on the base or SE models. That will likely change as Subaru continues expanding it throughout the lineup.

    I'm surprised CR wasn't enthusiastic about the 2.5's acceleration... I think it's pretty comparable to its competitors' 4-cylinder offerings. *shrug*
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    2010 will see an H6 in the Legacy and a larger car (think A6) so it'll address those concerns.

    -mike
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 685
    I'm surprised CR wasn't enthusiastic about the 2.5's acceleration... I think it's pretty comparable to its competitors' 4-cylinder offerings. *shrug

    10.8 sec 0-60 versus 9.8 for the four cylinder Accord at the same price point.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    CR gets the slowest 0-60 times of any publication, though. 10.8 ain't bad, about par for 4 bangers with automatics.

    Did you notice the Legacy actually uses less fuel than the 4 cylinder Accord? $20 less per year on gas, with AWD thrown in as part of the bargain.

    So the Accord was quicker but it came at the expense of as-tested fuel mileage. With FWD it should easily have beaten the Legacy in that regard.

    The sliding the tail out thing - Subaru very badly needs to make stability control standard, however it's also a fun driving trait. The AWD corrects itself. To a novice that may seem scary, but for me, it's a lot of fun. Just give us an off switch with the VSC.
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 685
    The sliding the tail out thing - Subaru very badly needs to make stability control standard, however it's also a fun driving trait. The AWD corrects itself. To a novice that may seem scary, but for me, it's a lot of fun. Just give us an off switch with the VSC

    AND Subaru need to retrain dealers like the owner at Evanston Subaru who told me when I wanted an Outback 3.0 VDC that they do not order them and VDC has no value! So I bought My VDC wagon elsewhere.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    Crazy dealer apparently didn't want your money. Even if you're one who doesn't like VDC, it'll lower your insurance rates, which gives it tangible value. :) And you can just turn it off if you don't want it (although... could you do that on the OB 3.0 VDC?)
  • The sliding the tail out thing - Subaru very badly needs to make stability control standard, however it's also a fun driving trait. The AWD corrects itself. To a novice that may seem scary, but for me, it's a lot of fun. Just give us an off switch with the VSC.

    No fun if this trait "helps" the car slide off the road in bad weather. I really wish Subaru let users adjust front/back AWD balance (only on the STI, I think...).

    The Outback 2.5i CU's tested did worse in acceleration - barely equal to a Prius. Then again, that test was 2 years ago.

    Direct Injection seems to improve low end torque for the engines it has been used on. So perhaps that will broaden the powerband of Subaru Engines.

    Pasian, will the next Outback grow in size a lot? I'd hate to see it pass the 190 inch length mark.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    I wonder, though, if manufacturers will be using future engine improvements to increase MPG rather than HP, because of the 35 MPG mandate.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,687
    No fun if this trait "helps" the car slide off the road in bad weather.

    The only thing that is going to help the car slide off the road is the driver. I have put 80,000 miles on Subaru vehicles - just on ice/snow covered roads. Only once has the tail of one of them slipped unless I wanted it to do so, and that time the car had quite a bit of assistance from other factors. They will understeer if you do not respect the traction limits, but indiscriminate tail sliding, no.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • jhnsn4jhnsn4 Posts: 5
    You guys are great! Been reading your comments/problems.
    My prob is there is a constant beep from this car with the key removed; car running, etc. It is not a chime, nor is it a beep - beep sound. It is on constant.
    It just started to do this (my daughter has the car at school and when she came home I noticed the sound when I went to change oil).
    When I pull the fuse for the clock/radio/interior lites (under the hood), the beep slowly bleeds off.
    Thus, some circuitry is being charged up, i.e. a capacitor some place.
    Called the dealership - no idea.
    Don't have service manuals so unsure what is all on this circuit. The clock, radio and interior lites all work fine. Could there be a security issue? Will try to lock the car with the remote to see if this cures it, but car is now at college w/ fuse pulled. Daughter has a hard time not having the radio work!!! Thanx, folks!!
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