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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • jiromojiromo Posts: 3
    My husband took out my car today. He said that there was absolutely nothing wrong with my car. He's used to driving rear wheel drive, so he didn't feel everytime the car got loose in a curve. He essentially called me stupid, without saying it. (I would like to note that my husband knows exactly NOTHING about cars. And, he wouldn't believe me when 2 of his cylinders were going out of his expedition. He continued to drive it... eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled. Then, he purchased a new motor.)

    Unfortunately, the roads are bone dry today. I made him get out and I took it back out myself. I got up to 85 mph before it started handling funny again. The only time it really acted up was in curves and it just felt really loose.

    I am calling the dealership tomorrow and seeing what I need to do.

    I have no clue where to find a used Bridgestone Potenza with 11,000 miles on it. (They are currently measuring at 7/32nds). If I find a place around here that stocks new ones, or have a new one shipped here, then I am going to have a tread depth issue still right???
    I am just going to have to buy a whole new set?
  • I don't remember seeing a FWD light. What fuse would control the AWD part?
    It's not a REAL big job taking the tail housing off and accessing the transfer clutch parts.
    But I'm looking for electrical answers first.
    Al
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    The FWD fuse is only available on automatic transmission Subarus and should be located in the engine compartment near passenger side firewall. It's not in the fusebox, located separately. With the fuse IN, the car goes into FWD mode, good for towing or running on a compact spare donut. With the fuse OUT, the car should operate normally in AWD mode. Just something easy for you to check. Good luck.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,502
    jiromo:

    Unfortunately, you are probably going to have to buy a whole new set. You might be able to get the new tire shaved, but unless it has the exact same wear characteristics of the old tires, it is going to wear faster, slower, etc, and cause problems down the road.

    Since the tire is new at this point, it may be a good time to get three more. Frustrating, I know, but far less expensive in the long run. If damage is caused by this, it will not be covered by the warranty.

    Also keep in mind that faster speeds cause more strain on the system, as do dry roads. You are going to feel less stability on slick surfaces, but that is because the stress in the system is most easily vented through wheel slippage, and slick roads allow this to happen at lower stress levels than a dry, hard surface.

    In the meantime, keep speeds down and/or trips short.

    Oh, and this is definitely one of those times when you should *not* listen to your husband... no offense to him. ;)
  • w8ifiw8ifi Posts: 78
    I had a sound like a whirring noise under the hood. Mechanic said it appeared the clutches on the air conditioning unit had gone out. He showed some excessive residue near the pump and tried the controls and the system is not operating.
    Can the clutches be replaced or does the whole compressor have to be changed?

    (85000 miles.)
    Jim :confuse:
  • Hi, I have a 2001 Forester with 101K miles that also had a Cat Converter code read recently (after the CEL was on for a few weeks). He cleared the code and it's been a week since and the CEL hasn't come back on. Does this mean I don't have to worry about the Cat Converter unless the CEL returns?
  • I'm noticing a lot of dust around Portland, which is a byproduct of the gravel they used for snow traction. Indeed, the engine bay has become very dusty - was not true through all of the summer months!

    One high tech shop here is advertising AVO High Flow Panel Filters, which they claim have a dramatic improvement in airflow without loss of filtration.

    But I am leery. The design seems similar to K & M filters which, while being higher flow than stock, let a lot more dust and dirt get into the engine. I'm not particularly interested in filling engine and oil with dirt and dust !!!

    Any of the performance folks here know if AVO filters do what they say (increase air flow without loss of filtration)? I could just buy stock filters more often to be on the safe side!
  • aathertonaatherton Posts: 617
    Do you think the snow gravel dust is affecting your air filter already? I thought Foresters were designed with gravel roads in mind. I suspect the stock filter is good until its scheduled change, for all types of roads.
  • Hello to all of you who have had problems with your foresters,
    When do these issues happen?? after 60K, 80K.
    I am almost to 36K and am wondering if I should purchase this ext. warranty??
    any thoughts are appreciated.
    Acunurse
  • I checked my XT engine air filter and found it surprisingly unrestrictive. It's made of a 1/4" thick , folded polyester batting that appears to be electrostatic. There were some debris and dust on it, but not anywhere as restricted as I suspected. All I did was shake and reverse-air-blast most of the larger dust particles out of it.

    There also seems to be a large whitish plastic container just below the main air filter housing...what that is there for, I am not sure. A Vacuum reservoir?

    The internal Cabin filter, though, was far thinner (if more pleated) and seemingly more porous. I was able to gently brush and air blast the loose stuff and larger particles out of it. I doubt it will do much good for pollen sufferers, given its relatively coarse weave.
    On other hand, it will not block up as fast as the GM cabin air filters for the ION and (by special assembly) Mailbu, which would turn gray within two weeks of installation.
  • Suggestions for anything that might help protect windshields from rock damage would be appreciated.

    It's rock throwing season on the Oregon freeways and my glass is already getting chipped.
  • I have a 96 Brighton wagon with almost 105, 000 miles. Today, the CEL went on immediately after one of my headlights was replaced. Could there be any connection, or is this coincidental? No previous problems with CEL. I tried calling my mechanic, but had left for the day.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    07 Impreza AWD
    11,000 miles
    Automatic

    I found my rear passenger tire flat last Saturday (1/3/2008). There was a nail sticking out of the sidewall. My nearest dealership is about 50 miles away.

    So, I had to have the tire replaced locally. I couldn't find the exact match for the factory tires (Bridgestone). So, I had to have a BF Goodrich with the same specs installed.

    I took my car to Subaru on Wednesday for other service (I have been having issues with the heat/defrost controls sticking). It was slightly snowing that day and I took the interstate. I still drove around 65 to 70 mph because the conditions weren't bad. I had no issues with traction or sliding.

    This morning, I got in my car and on to the interstate. I was going about 70 and the rear end of my car just started coming out from behind me. It was like I was driving on ice. There is no ice. It's too warm for ice. The roads were a little damp, but there was no reason for my car to behaving in that manner. (Honestly, it felt like I was driving my husband's mustang at too fast of a speed in pouring down rain.) I pulled off and was attempting to turn into a gas station. The rear end of my car just start skipping/jumping and shuddering.

    My tire pressure appears to be fine. I checked all of my lug nuts. I have no lights on on my dashboard. I do not have a traction control button. My emergency brake was not on. I checked under the car and under the hood to make sure I didn't see any leaks of any sort.

    I have never pulled anything with my car. I don't drive my car crazy-- I'm an adult female.

    I can take curves at about 35 mph max without my car acting up. At 70mph on a straight-a-way my car starts fishtailing. My car has NEVER handled like this!

    What else do I need to check before I have my car towed to Subaru??

    I have Subaru Roadside assistance, so hopefully I won't have to pay for the tow. I don't like having to be without it. I don't like my husbands car.

    Edited to add:
    There was some kind of a low whistling noise coming from my car on my slow drive back to my home.


    My guess is in this order:

    1) Wheel Bearing

    or

    2) front lower control arm bushing

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm noticing a lot of dust around Portland, which is a byproduct of the gravel they used for snow traction. Indeed, the engine bay has become very dusty - was not true through all of the summer months!

    One high tech shop here is advertising AVO High Flow Panel Filters, which they claim have a dramatic improvement in airflow without loss of filtration.

    But I am leery. The design seems similar to K & M filters which, while being higher flow than stock, let a lot more dust and dirt get into the engine. I'm not particularly interested in filling engine and oil with dirt and dust !!!

    Any of the performance folks here know if AVO filters do what they say (increase air flow without loss of filtration)? I could just buy stock filters more often to be on the safe side!


    We just did a 30k on a customer's car with an AVO filter. The rubber around the edges of it came off in like 5k miles for him. We replaced it with an oem style paper filter. I would get a K&N before the AVO one.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • I'll stick with Subie filters for now. Thanks, Mike. ;)
  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    My son lives in Northern Maine. The rubber door gaskets on his '02 Forester need to be replaced. His local dealer wants $ 96 each plus $ 40 labor per door. They told him it was a common problem in very cold areas due to the rubber breaking down in the ice/cold.

    Has anyone replaced the gaskets? Is it difficult to do? He will be at my place in a few weeks and we could do the change out in a garage. I don't think it would be difficult to stick the gasket clips into the body, but one never can be sure.

    Thanks
  • Hi to all

    This question may have been answered previously, but I could find a thread for it. I have a 2006 Outback XT , manual trans., with 30k miles and just sliced a front tire on a piece of metal and had it replaced with an identical new tire. My tire dealer said I just had to replace the one tire, it was okay as long as it was the same model and tread pattern. I have since heard that you should really replace both tires on the same axle. Any advice?
  • You may have to replace all 4...

    If the difference in circumference between the new tire vs other 3 30k tires is more than 1/4 inch, it can cause all manner of problems with differentials, AWD, ABS, etc.

    I think .25" circumference equates to about 2/32" of tread depth (I know I'll get corrected if it's not) :) If the new tire has 2/32" more (deeper) tread than the other 3, it's 4 tire time.

    Been there, done that.
    Cheers!
    Paul
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,781
    Or get the new tire shaved?

    My sister is going through this right now with her Forester, but she hasn't installed the new tire yet. She got a set from TireRack not too many months ago so she's crossing her fingers on the differential with the new one that just arrived.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • 02 Outback (4 cyl, auto) 82K miles.

    3 yrs ago we moved from CA to Boston. Recently temps dropped below 25 during the day. After starting the car in the evening after a day outside, I started getting a very strong gas smell especially with heater/defrost on. The smell went away after driving about 5 miles (i.e., car heated up). A web search turned up many similar cases. A common cause was fuel hose contraction from the cold.

    After a cold start I opened the hood but couldn't see anything but could smell fuel. I took it to the dealer today. They said it was a cracked (rubber) fuel hose near the radiator intake. It'll be $200 to fix. $65 part, the rest is labor. I'll get it back the next business day and hopefully it smell anymore.
  • I have an 08 Impreza Outback Sport. Started having a problem in the cold weather with a film on the inside of the windshield that has to be constantly wiped off even while driving. Defrosters don't work. The dealer couldn't find a source of the problem and I've seen othe sites with owners having the same issue. Anyone else have this problem?
  • Yes there is a TSB recently posted in the 2009 Forester thread about this.
    The problem is oil retained in the rubber door seals within the heating system.
    The oil will eventually be volatilized but it takes some time.
    In extreme cases Subaru can replace the seals.

    You can remove the film with either Stoner's Invisible Glass or Megiuars glass cleaners. Regular windex-type cleaners won't remove those films.
  • On another Edmunds topic, several comments rose that the turbo engine's #3 cylinder, being close to turbo and exhaust piping, runs very hot and suffers from rod failures.
    Is this true? Isolated cases? Specific year engines ? :confuse:

    Having read about these after market heat shields that keep heat away from other engine parts (and apparently keep it within the turbo), do these make any difference?
    And can the shield itself raise turbo temperatures to where the turbos fail faster?

    Just curious...am making sure my '09 XT stays healthy.
  • I have an 04 Outback Sport, under the heater/A/C guages is a slide switch for the interior circulation. One side indicates outside air and the other indicates inside circulation, when running the defrosted this swith needs to be on the left side letting outside air in. Try it. It worked for me.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Not that I've heard.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I finally starting taking the engine apart. Started last night and hit a road block. I need a Torx bit to remove the camshaft. But the work is going well. About 30 more minutes of work then I can get the head off and see the problem. I plan on taking it to a machine shop tomorrow (after getting the bit).
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,502
    You made it a year without doing the work? Now that is patience. :D
  • Did you get a resolution on this yet?
    I have posted this same type of message in regards to my '01 Outback. Mine has 125k and has had this same problem intermittently for a few years. My local dealer never had a resolution and someone on this forum made a great point.

    The choke opens up too much in our colder areas and releases this smell. I live in NH and this occurs on those very cold mornings and actually, today, as it was 20 degrees outside.

    I just live with and tell my passengers to prepare for it ;)
  • But... fuel injected cars don't have chokes.
  • Picked up the car last night. Left it outside for the day (~25 degrees) and no gas smell on the drive home ! It'll be colder tomorrow so I'll keep my figures crossed.

    I left it over night at the dealer so they check when it's cold.
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