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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    edited July 2010
    Interesting... Under normal circumstances, I'd say without a doubt there is no logical connection between the events. The P0420 is a catalytic efficiency check as measured by the rear oxygen sensor, and really doesn't impact driveability at all. It's just a tattletale code, as the rear sensor is not part of the ECU feedback system.

    However... as you pointed out with the cruise control light, sometimes mfgrs do interesting things to get your attention and prompt you to fix things. But disable the climate control system? Rather draconian, wouldn't you say?

    More likely, your deep water experience has had an impact on multiple subsystems, and these two took a hit. It could be wet/corroded connectors.

    Start by listening to the AC compressor clutch to see if it is engaging. You will see the center section lock in and spin, you will hear the compressor whine, and note a change in idle speed and maybe a shake as the throttle is goosed by the ECU to compensate for the load. If it doesn't, begin by looking for a blown fuse. Next, pull the connector at the compressor and check for 12v applied when you have the controls set on AC.

    On the Cat, start by resetting and see if it returns. If it does, get under the car and check for good clean and tight electrical connections at the rear oxygen sensor.

    More when you check these and report. Good luck.
  • rebel71rebel71 Posts: 87
    I noticed from first day I bought vehicle that the left trunk hinge made a squeaking sound. I thought it just needs lubrication tried some silicone spray, didn't help. I brought it to dealer and they confirmed squeak and replaced the hinge. Now the right side is squeaking. I was told that these hinges can't be lubricated. The trunk on left side doesn't line up well with body of car. There is a good size gap also noticed from day one. Dealer realigned trunk and it's still off. Dealer said that some trunks come like that from mfg. it might have been the way it was stamped. Hmm...I'm thinking I want to ask them to replace the right hinge and ask for new trunk lid. I'm not sure if a new trunk lid would fix the gap issue. Any idea?

    Thank you
  • rebel71rebel71 Posts: 87
    I assumed my Subaru dealer used dynamic balancing for tires, it never came into question. Ok, I forgot to ask. They use static balancing and have been for 30 years w/ no issue I was told. I wrote to Subaru and asked if static balancing was ok. They replied that we do not recommend static balancing. Roadforce or dynamic balancing is what we would recommend. I asked why and they never got back to me. Hope this info helps.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Does anyone know the quality of the following parts you can order from "Car Parts Wholesale" BECK ARNLEY($34) or MEVOTECH($38) or MOOG($38) TIE ROD END? Thanks
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Do you know the quality of the following parts you can order from "Car Parts Wholesale" BECK ARNLEY($34) or MEVOTECH($38) or MOOG($38) TIE ROD END? Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks
  • Subaru bearings are always going to be NTN or KOYO made in Japan. Anything else in the box, do not buy it! Beck Arnely are reboxed of the above brands, so is Timken, so is National which is part of the Moog big picture of companies, Federal Mogal. I look at Rockauto.com and look who is selling the cheapest.

    On another note especially on rear AWD units, be very sure that the seals are pressed all the way in and the drive shaft mating surface is smooth. Contrary to ads, the rear wheels assemblies do not fare well in water and mud.

    On the tie rod, I get MOOG from O'reilly's and have a lifetime warranty. They have eaten many a warranted part from me. Keep your receipt!
  • I have a 2009 Forester with about 25K miles. For the past couple of oil services, the dealer recommends that the power steering fluid be changed. I repeatedly declined. He says it is brown. I have never changed power steering fluid in any Subaru (or car) that I have ever owned. It is not recommended in the Subaru manual. The reservoir is translucent plastic and so it it easy to see the fluid color. In all past cars that I've owned, it was solid metal. Is brownish tinged fluid normal or is the dealer trying to perform an unnecessary $120 service? Any comments appreciated.
    Thanks---
  • I know the earlier models use Dextron which is red in color. If it is turning brown this early, then a cooler needs to be added to the system and the fluid changed. On another note, is the color change from heat or degradation of parts in the system? If the latter, seriously consider putting in an inline filter system. Take the dip and wipe it off with a white towel. See what color it is. If it is brown, changing it is easy. Not possible to get it all out, just most of it. Pull the return line and drain reservoir. Pay attention to the mounting. I found the 2003 had the reservoir below the pump which can starve the pump and burn it out. That line to the pump must have fluid in it for it to work; so raise the reservoir to fill that line back up. Keep the hole to return line plugged with a finger until you lower the reservoir and quickly slip the return line back on and clamp it. Make sure you clean up any spills to prevent engine fires.

    When it is all said and done save $70, send me $50 for helping out....don't we all wish! LOL Yup, dealers are quick to take you for a ride for a simple job. Auto designers are making it harder to service, but the basics do not change. Just be careful, get a good repair manual and use some common sense and careful thought about how to do a task before you do it and you will do fine.

    On another note: The trucking industry also uses inline filters for both the transmission and power steering to extend the life of the units. I have begun installing them in the older Subarus in fleet service here. The first a 94 with a 175K returned to service recently. Go to http://www.magnefine.com/ they have the best price I have seen anywhere. On automatic transmissions, if you can get a cooler installed, do so, it will extend the life of the transmission a lot even if you do not tow.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    When a new car arrives dealer lot, dealer has to hood up something before showing to the public. If they forget to do this then the CEL will come on.
  • kevin111kevin111 Posts: 991
    I have an '02 WRX with over 130k miles. After 30 minutes the engine gets coarse and loud. I was wondering if there is a concern of the turbo going? If so, how much is a replacement turbo?

    Generally, the car has been very good to me, even with a great deal of hard driving. Great car.
  • Thanks, girlcarbuilder, for your comments. It does use Dexron ATF fluid. I checked the color and it is definitely not red (it was a clear, light tan color) and there was some black sludge on the bottom of the dipstick. Since this is a relatively new car and still under warranty I don't want to do any mods (yet!) like adding a cooler or filter. Besides this shouldn't be necessary since Subaru designed this system without either one.

    My question now is: Why is this happening? Is a component in the pump or system (hose lining, a seal, or etc?) that is deteriorating causing this to happen? If so I need to have this addressed as a warranty issue. Hopefully with some more info I can make a case, if necessary.

    As before, any comments appreciated.
    Thanks---
  • rebel71rebel71 Posts: 87
    Hi all,

    I'm getting ready to replace my current battery which is 490 CCA. I want to install a battery w/ 625-650 CCA I'm wondering if it would be ok?

    Thank you
  • rebel71rebel71 Posts: 87
    Hi again, I was wondering if I have to rebalance my tires every time I switch to my winter set of tires?

    Thanks
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,714
    My service advisor is recommending a transmission fluid exchange (a machine which actually pumps new fluid through the transmission, cleaning out old crud, etc.).

    Have folks here had any experience with that type of transmission service for their Subarus (mine is an '09 Forester XT) ?
  • You are most correct about why the fluid is changing color. It is debris from the system breaking in. Metal to metal wearing, hose breaking down slowly and so on. Cutting down on it in circulation is key at some point in life. As for filters, I understand your warranty concerns. I would add the filter system after that. When you check A1 cardone websites about reman rack and pinion units or pumps, you will find it is a warranty requirement on reman units to install the filter system. The filter goes in the return line.

    As for Subies in general the ones here are all Legacy, 94,97 and one 03 Impeza. If I recall correctly they all use the same rack unit. The 97 last time it was here from St. Louis, MO was 262K miles. They all have original racks. The 94 got the first filter system. The others will when they come south again. Primary reason for the install is to clean up the system and cut down on wearing it out even if these units entered the fleet late in life.
  • an 09? I might consider that at 60K to 100k. Besides you need to look at him and ask how that is going to clean out all of the crude in the torque convertor? I promise he will either squirm or lie like a dog. It will not! There is always going to be some trash in the system. Always drain and change the inside filter in the pan and then I would add an inline filter from http://www.magnefinefilters.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm . This is what a lot of fleets do. From then on it will be drain fluid and change inline filter every 30K for the filter. This is the best way to keep them clean in the first place. If possible add a cooler as well. Keeping the heat down extends life as well. Subie grilles are very tight on room.
  • I always put the biggest battery in that will fit properly. Not a problem. Way too many times that extra capacity has come in handy. Besides, some of the older 4 bangers here are packing enough CCA to start a large V-8! Even when the battery is half dead it will still start up a 4 banger right up!
  • This is about turbo's in general. AKA trouble in my book. The bearings in these units are the biggest headache because that is what usually fails not to mention having seized bolts, nuts and or studs when it comes to disassembly. There are many reasons why many of these cars do not make it past 10 years of age....the number one being additional maintenance to keep it right not being done or properly done.

    Go to Harbor freight and get a stethoscope and find your noise source if you have one. If you do have a noisy turbo bearings you need to do a tear down asap, because when they go, they go big time. I would also check and see what service interval guidelines are out there to gain insight when to service...assuming you have a serviceable unit.

    Hope this helps out.
  • colin_lcolin_l Posts: 591
    The stock WRX turbo is very cheap secondhand because a fair number of enthusiasts upgrade. (There are several direct bolt-on upgrades, but you will still need to remap the ECU or use piggyback computers if you use anything other than stock.)

    It has been years and years, so do some of your own research... but I'm thinking that a number of 2002 - 2003 USDM WRXs had noise and driveability problems from the TGVs.

    That's my second guess for your noise, after turbocharger.

    More details about it would be helpful, though. :)
  • bshumakerbshumaker Posts: 2
    i got major problems with my 2002 Subaru outback 4 cylinder about 150k miles... when i first start car will rev way up to almost 3k and then go back and idle at about 1k....when driving and keeping a steady speed the entire car will start jolting back and forth violently and rpm's will move up and down during jolts does not always happen about 3-4 times on my 35 mile trip to work... and would randomly die when i stop.. and the car dying has gotten worst on way home from work last night it died at 6 of the 7 stop lights i stopped.... also about half the time i have no acceleration at all will take 3- 45 sec to get to 50 mph.. and when im got 70 i will push on gas and rpm's don't move at all but car will respond and make noise but will not accelerate ......have been having a shop work on car off and on for almost 5 months trying to fix this problem and they don't no what to check.... have had transmission rebuilt when went out and not have had coil pack, spark plugs, and wires, fuel filter, catalytic converter, and o2 sensor all replaces during this ordeal...... and about ready to just try to get rid of car but i love Subaru and wanna get this fix :confuse: :confuse:
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    Could be a throttle body or throttle position sensor problem. Any "Check Engine" light codes?
  • bshumakerbshumaker Posts: 2
    forgot to say that the throttle position sensor been replaced too and the engine light does come on sometimes but it hasn't since we replaced the coil pack 3 of the 4 cylinders was missing until we replaced that
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I agree, no problem with more CCAs, just don't get less.

    I put a bigger replacement battery in a 98 Forester and it started better than when new. No problems ever and sold it with that same battery.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    The dealer told me that I should change all four tires at once. If there is more wear on any tire it would cause the AWD system to work harder to compensate for the slight difference in tire diameters. Right now I have more tread on the fronts than the rears.
  • Is there any way to disconnect my daytime running lights????
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 683
    When you pull on the parking brake they go out on an Outback. That is probably the same on the Impreza. There probably is a way to use that circuit as a control, but why would you want to disengage a safety feature? Any accident is far more costly than low beam headlight and tail light bulbs.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,392
    Dave - even better than that, since the tail lights do not operate with the front DRLs!

    One click on the e-brake will turn them off, but as mentioned earlier, you can likely patch into this circuit to override them. There is no "easy fix" to turn them off, though, as it is federally-mandated to the manufacturers.
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 683
    One click on the e-brake will turn them off, but as mentioned earlier, you can likely patch into this circuit to override them. There is no "easy fix" to turn them off, though, as it is federally-mandated to the manufacturers

    Wes, But I'm not sure Canadian models have DRLs which suggests there is an easy, if unwise, fix. Dave
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,901
    I think DRLs are required in Canada....

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  • colin_lcolin_l Posts: 591
    Thank goodness DRLs aren't federally mandated in the states.

    I'm not a fan. I like fulltime lights on motorcycles, but cars... not so much.
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