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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Where are you located? I need a decent dealer!!!

    BTW, how is your Ody? My '02 EX is about to roll 50k. Other than the tranny replacement, it has been very reliable, although it sounds like hell on all but smooth roads. Too much body flex making the sliders and tailgate squeak and groan.

  • Guess what guys. They decided to replace the tire for me!!! Man, I'm really happy with this dealer. I'm gonna purchase another car from them again! The general manager Dan was very helpful. I only spoke to him for 5 minutes and he decided to replace the tire for free!

    The dealer is White Bear Acura/Subaru in Minnesota.
  • Under warranty the short block on our RAV was replaced at 52K do to an idling issue they could never eliminate. I thought this was a good thing untill I found out it did not mean I was getting an entirely new engine. After another 22K miles I was getting a grey puff of smoke out the tail pipe noticable only in cold weather. No oil drips are noticable in our concrete driveway. We are ignoring it rather than have a valve job. I' would have thought they would have replaced the seals with the short engine block. I'd think that after only 22K Toyota would have warrantied the seals. No way. First the car now had 72K miles and was out of all warranty. 2nd, they said they were not even sure the seals were replaced. (I wonder if the timing belt was?) I called Toyota and they only offered me a $1K rebate off any 'new' car. I can make my best deal and then contact them and they well send me the cash. Still I was quite upset. Even if they are still the original seals ,should they be going already?

    My point here is that the new engine with all new parts sounds like a better way to go. I'd think it would come with some sort of warranty. You likely could then sell it for more than you can get now...though still would suffer a loss you would not expect on a Subaru. Have you called SOA again and explained the story from scratch. I'd even mail them a packet of all paperwork and a lenghtly letter describing the issue. That may make more of an impact than a phone call. That is what I did with the RAV. It did not get me a repair but did get me the $1K credit towards a new Toyota. Ironically I am thinking of ditching the credit and buying a Subaru. The Rav is too small and the new 'bigger' one will likely cost too much...and we want a new car now. BUT, perhaps Subaru would off you something similar. You could even ask...that is if you would consider another Subaru. Good Luck!
  • Hi Guys,

    I had a 22mm Perrin Rear Sway Bar and Whiteline endlinks installed on my '04 WRX sedan back in May. Handling noticeably improved w/ the upgrade, but the ride became noisy when going over speed bumps or road imperfections. Lately it's become even noisier w/ a lot of squeaky sounds even when I turn into my driveway or going over bumps at 5mph.

    I've never had aftermarket sway bars prior to this, so I was wondering if this is normal. Or is this something I need to get checked. Anybody had any similar experience w/ aftermarket sway bars?


    James B.
  • rpilrpil Posts: 5
    Will the driver's side tail assembly from a 2001 Subaru OBW fit a 1996? How about a 1998 driver's side tail assembly; will it fit a 1997?
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    Could be the swaybar bushings. I'd look at cleaning them up and lubricating them with something that's reasonably weather resistant and agreeable to whatever the bushing material is.....

    I know when I upgraded my swaybar, the bushings are rubber so I used lithium grease (I think). No noise at all.

    If it was noisy from the get-go I'd have whoever did the install double check the torque on the endlinks and overall bracket snugness in general.

    If you're hearing any thunks make sure the endlinks aren't hitting the calipers - I don't know about the WRX but on the FXT there isn't a lot of clearance between the bar and the banjo bolts on the calipers, in fact one vendor sells a kit to stop the swaybar from "walking" so it can't drift into the calipers.


  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    2000 to 2004 was a 'series', as was 1995 thru 1999. I would think that taillight assemblies within each series would be compatible, but it is possible that there will be minor running changes.

  • Thanks for the reply.

    I decided to get a new car after getting feed back from other members here, talking to a few car buddies of mine, and my financial advisor. Basically, there is no way I can recoup the cost of repairs or even engine replacement with the increase in resale value. It makes more sense to buy new and worry free. My advisor suggested getting a car with a very long warranty considering how long I keep my cars. So, right now I am leaning toward the new Suzuki Grand Vitara. checked the boards and they dont' seem to have a lot of problems, the redesigned version with the luxury package have everything I want in a car, so I don't need to add any aftermarket stuff.

    As for SOA, they have the file as well as the repair orders from the two header jobs. Right now I am a bit turned off by Subaru, not by their cars, but by the directions and decisions SOA are making for the brand. I am going to hold off buying another Subaru for myself until the path of SOA and NA Subaru products become clearer. I would buy a Subaru for my girlfriend when ever she decides to.

  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    The new Vitara has not been out nearly long enough to know of problems yet -- personally, I would wait for the second model year on that one. Also, if warranties are important, I would buy an extended warranty on a vehicle I really want rather than just shop for vehicles with standard long warranties (which may not be comprehensive anyhow).

  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    Google "mods+scooby"
  • mnfmnf Posts: 404
    Hi , I have a problem on my 2004 Forester front speakers I had new aftermarket ones put in just after purchase that now the left one stopped working. The tweeter and rear are working just not the front left. Should I take it in or could it be a wire that I can get to my self without messing things up. Thanks for any suggestions....
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    The most likely causes are wiring or a mechanical/thermal fault with the front left speaker. It could be the deck (cd receiver) but that's a lot less likely.

    If you have never done it before, I would not recommend disassembling the door panel to get to the speaker unless you feel pretty comfortable as a hobbyist mechanic / DIYer.

  • Craig,

    Yeah, I have the same thought in the back of my head. Personally, I REALLY want the Xterra, but I am not the only one who is going to be in the car all the time. I do have to take into account my girlfriend's opinion, as we all know what would happen if the fairer gender is not happy... She don't really like the Xterra, only because it has a high step in height and she is short, and it's on a truck chasis while she is used to the smooth ride of the Forester, and she thinks it's too big :confuse: . I am still trying to sell her on the Xterra, there has to be middle ground there somewhere. ;)

    To still be on topic, the Forester's engine is still running fine, I noticed that if I get the engine thru that 2K - 2.5K rpm range quickly I don't get the rattling noise. Of course my MPG would suffer abit.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    On the '98 Forester the grille cover is plastic and basically just pops off. I wonder if it's the same for yours.


    I'd suspect the connection right at the speaker.

  • mnfmnf Posts: 404
    Yea it looks like its all one unit with the door panel I guess I will have to take it in as not having full sound is not a option. Thanks for the help... Matt
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I agree with Craig... extended warranties can be purchased so it is better to get the car you find the best fit for you (and your girlfriend!) ESPECIALLY if you plan to keep it for a "long time." From what I can tell, the new Frontier (extends to X-Terra?) is a very solid vehicle, but be careful with Nissan as they will not give an inch on the warranty, even if something is a blatant mfg defect. They honor the warranty, but don't expect to get any help if your odometer is at 36,001 and something fails. ;)
  • smittynycsmittynyc Posts: 291
    Our 2004 Forester 2.5X with 205XX miles suffered a flat last night, front right. I'm not sure what caused it -- the roads around here are already so bad right now, I'm genuinely afraid of how they're going to look after a couple freeze/thaw cycles.

    Anyway, I've got the full-size spare on there now, and I need to have someone look at the tire to determine if it can be fixed. If I pressure down the spare to match the other three, I ought to be all right driving for a few dozen or so miles, yes?

    (Extra credit question: if the flat can't be repaired, any all-season replacements to recommend? I don't care about noise, handling and snow/water performance are my priorities.)


  • bgsntthbgsntth Posts: 76
    I'm with Larry. It is the urethane bushings that are squeeking, which is an unfortunate consequence of most urethane bushings. Whiteline baffles their urethane bushings, and I think Hotchkis has a little nipple built-in so that you can periodically insert grease. I know others have had squeek problems with Perrin, so you might try Teflon tape in addition to the lithium grease.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732

    I don't know if newer Foresters have a limited slip rear diff, but if they do, you will cause the least amount of rotational disturbance if you rotate the odd tire to the front. And yes, in theory, removing a few lbs will compensate for the slightly thicker tread (greater circumference).

    I'll pass on the extra credit part!

  • The 2004 Forester X does not have the limited slip rear differential (XS & XT do).

    But if you get really concerned about the effects of a different sized spare on your wheels, read up in your owner's manual on using a fuse to change your vehicle from AWD to FWD.

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