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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    juice,

    Thanks a bunch! Great photos, as always!

    I'm off to Pep Boys to buy some supplies!

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    You'll need a ratchet drive like juice mentioned above. I think it's 1/2" like he said.
    You can get a special funnel from the parts store that screws onto the bottle. Then just tip the bottle up and pour it in. Some gear oils (M1 I think) come with a pointed bottle top so you might not need a funnel.
    edit: You guys are fast. You'd think this was a chat.
    Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Those are actually someone else's photos. That guy makes me look like an amateur!

    I doubt a funnel along will work, because you can't get above the fill hole (it's the upper hole, pretty far up there). You'll probably need tubing or a pump.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    The funnel I'm talking about is basically a screw-on cap with a tube coming out. It also comes with a plastic extension tube. It's made especially for differentials. Actually, it's more like a spout.
    Dennis
  • I have RedLine 75-90NS for the tranny and 75-90 for the dif. I bought them just before I traded my 00 for the 01 so now I have to wait until I get to 8-10k miles before I switch. These are the products recommended by a tech at Redline. He says the 75-90NS is formulated to no be too slippery for the syncros. Yes I did read all the postings on i-club so we will see.

    BTW - Juice did you see the June issue of Sport Compact Car mag? 55 new tuner parts for the Miata.

    bit
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Thanks for all your responses, folks. I got the pump and some M1 75W90 from Pep Boys. I hope this does the trick in quieting down that whining noise.

    I was going to install the Kartboy shifter today so now I'll have something to do while the oil drains!

    The one strange thing about the noise is that it only happens at part throttle. Is that consistent with a diffy noise?

    Ken
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    I can't say what it is, but the info. you are getting here is good. I would still recommend you get a dealer to check it out now. Even if it is "normal" or they can't here it, it is documented that you are hearing it in warranty. If it is in warranty, you shouldn't have to pay for the check. Also, call us and let us start a case. That way, if something happens down the road we are aware of it. If you call the 800 number, tell them that I referred you. Your call will be handled well even if you don't ask them to tell me, but if they do, I can keep an eye on it.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    A friend asked me about a problem with her 97 legacy. I post elsewhere so I thought this would be a good place to ask.

    She says that the car lurches? I guess when accelerating it doesn't engage right away? She shifts and then gives it gas, it seems underpowered and the revs don't go up, then it all of a sudden takes off? Almost like their is an injector problem?

    Any ideas?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure how many miles are on it, but sounds like a tune up. I have a similar problem occassionally with the XT6.

    -mike
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Well, I tried changing the rear diffy oil, but the plugs were waaaaay over torqued and I couldn't crack them open. Looks like I'll have to have some shop do it for me or go see a Subaru dealer.

    Patti: Thanks for the input. I completely agree that your way is the right way. I just thought that a quick oil change might save me the trouble of having to go to the dealer. As you might know, the closest dealer I trust (Santa Cruz) is far away from both work and home. Given that I couldn't open the plugs, I think I just may take it to a dealer.

    BTW, did you mean to say that I should start a case in conjunction with visiting a dealer?

    Ken
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    Yes. Seeing the dealer alone and getting a repair order is fine, but if we have a case documenting your concern, we can keep track of the situation.

    Sorry for the agg of having to travel to the dealer!

    Patti
  • vincer2vincer2 Posts: 97
    I'm entering the 2nd warm weather cycle with my 2000 OB and the engine pinging has started again. Whenever the air temperature is >70 the intermittent pinging and knocking starts. Last night the pinging was loud enough to be considered knocking. Most of the time the pinging and knocking is the loudest after driving 10 to 20 miles in warm weather, turning the engine off for a brief period and then driving it again.

    Service manager says its normal and that Subaru has no official statement on engine pinging. My limited knowledge about pre-ignition pinging is that its normal during hard acceleration or going up a "steep" hill. If its supposed to ping then I'm confused why it doesn't always ping and knock. Last night the pinging was more of a knock and it was occurring while holding a steady speed of 40 mph on level ground (no acceleration or hill climbing involved), A/C off and auto trans in 4th gear.

    Last summer the dealer changed the knock sensor but it didn't help. I've tried switching brands of gas and that hasn't helped either. Running high octane gas does reduce the intensity of the pinging but that's an expensive fix.

    I believe excessive pinging and knocking can damage the valves and lead to carbon buildup. Should I be concerned about this?

    Anyone have any suggestions or advice?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Vince
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Bit: there is an abundance of tuner parts for the Miata. Unfortunately, they are pricey and I don't have an abundance of funds!

    Sean: I'd guess it's the tranny. Sounds to me like it starts in 2nd gear, kind of hesitating, and when you give it gas it shifts down to first and then surges forward.

    It'll only get worse, so have it serviced ASAP, is my advice.

    Patti: can we ask that dealers watch out for torque specs? It seems that every bolt I encounter is over-torqued as well. Aren't those air wrenches adjustable?

    Vince: warm air is less dense, so I'm puzzled. When you compress cooler air it actually has a higher effective compression ratio.

    Either way, does not sound normal to me at all.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    If it's a severe hesitation, it could be affected by this TSB: http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/tsb.htm


    This was a problem in some 5-speed '97 Subes. Mine has it and my former dealer blamed it on a loose vacuum hose. A week later, it started happening again. It always happens after every oil change so I just got used to re-setting the ECU regularly by disconnecting the battery for 30 min.
    Otherwise, it might just need a tune-up.
    Dennis

  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    I'm very interested in your problem as my wife's 99 Forester L w/auto has been pinging and knocking since we got it and funny thing is the dealer can't duplicate it or won't try and were told its normal. I have run from 87 octane to 93 and it still does it, but your right, it is more noticable in the summer. The Forester even makes the pinging sound even when de-accellerating which is strange. Post any changes or repair if you would.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Patti: I took your advice and called SOA to set up case#303042 with your referal. I spoke to Mike -- very friendly and courteous.

    juice: I agree. I was trying everything possible to get those plugs open. I even tried gently pushing on my ratchet handle with my foot since I had little leverage under the Forester. Those things are welded shut!

    Ken
  • vincer2vincer2 Posts: 97
    juice,
    while the warmer air is less dense it is probably also increasing the operating temperature of the engine enough to cause pre-ignition which in turn is causing the pinging and knocking.
    vince
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Vince,

    I've got a similar pinging problem that gets worse as the weather warms. Super unleaded seems to help, but it's expensive. I'm taking the district service rep. out on Monday so he can hear the problem. Unless they've redesigned the knock sensor (or mine is defective), I'm guessing that won't solve the problem. I'm wondering if a new computer might fix it? Any other suggestions to look at? I'm also having a problem with the new MAF sensor creating a shaking at idle. (Idle is smooth but the engine shakes.)

    Eric
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    That was it...the dealer reset the computer and everything is fine! Though I told my friend that she should ask for more than just a resetting of the computer. I would think that if there was a problem once it might re-appear soon?
  • vincer2vincer2 Posts: 97
    Eric,
    I'm leaving the car with the dealer next Wed and they can have it as long as needed to troubleshoot and correct the problem. One remote possibility is they changed a defective knock sensor with a new defective knock sensor.

    Service manager indicated he wants to check a few items but wasn't specific.

    Please post any info you receive. I'll post a response after I pick up my car in a week or so.

    Vince
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