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Cheers Pat.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_2000&L2=L2_2050&SKU=44480
Jon
Hi Mark,
Yes, the front and rear washers share the same tank in the engine compartment. The 1st generation (90-94) Legacys had front and rear tanks (don't know about 2G). Perhaps a blocked line near the tank or a kink in the hose(i.e., manufacturing defect) -- all guesses, I've not heard of this problem.
..Mike
..Mike
The part # you gave me IS correct. The problem is that when the parts guy orders it, what comes in is the rear ashtray cover. The part comes in a little plastic baggie bearing the part # of the cupholder cap. They apparently have the wrong part labeled with the part # of the part I need....so how will I ever get the correct part if they don't have it sorted correctly?
Hopefully they will figure this out soon, right now I have the new console in but its missing the little rubber piece and the cap to hold it on.
-r
If you find a detached wire, I would start questioning Subaru's quality control from the factory to the dealer to the customer.
-juice
..Mike
Bob
Bob
..Mike
I persuaded the tire dealer to take the RE92s in part exchange, they allowed me $75 each, I was gonna stick them in the classifieds and ask $50 each not even expecting to get that, including taxes I saved $345.
Needless to say I am feeling very pleased with myself.
I have had BF Goodrich before and was happy with them.
Cheers Pat.
Thanks,
Patti
Maybe there is a blockage in the tubing?
Patti
Steve
-juice
I actually went shopping for Blizzaks, But not a tire dealer in Ottawa had them in 205-55-16, I could get 215, or 225-60-16, at $60 cheaper a tire than the 205-55-16, both HR rated so go figure.
Anyway the manager at the dealers was running winter slaloms on his personal car when he could have his choice of any tire so that is recommendation enough for me.
Cheers Pat.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
Cheers Pat.
I have hit 1600 miles and 3 months on my 2001 Outback - very happy so far. Two problems - 1st the front winshield wiper fluid ejector isn't functioning - I just read the posts and see a pattern here. I'll check for that plug mentioned. Other problem is harmonic noise when breaking in reverse - also read about it in here and will ask about shims.
Question: Should I bring the car in now or at 3000 miles? Also - anyone use Becker for service? I purchased there but its not my closest dealer....
THanks in advance..this board is great!
Patti
I called SOA today and spoke to someone about that mystery part that appears to be packaged incorrectly. I also talked to my parts guy again. My parts guy said that the problem was with Fuji back in Japan...basically, the warehouse here in Atlanta is receiving these parts straight from Japan, therefor, there is no new arrival date in sight. The person I talked to at SOA said she'd call and see if she could get an arrival date. The whole thing seems strange to me, and all we are talking about is a $6 part....but, until I get it, my console will continue to look 'broken'
Hopefully it will all get cleared up soon. If you happen to find out anything, please let me know.
Thanks!
-r
I also asked about the valve train chatter during initial cold morning driving, and if the valve lash was adjustable. They said that they get a lot of complaints about this, but it is normal. All recent H4 Subaru engines sound 'tappy' under load when cold, and as long as it goes away when the temp guage begins to rise, ignore it. Lash isn't adjustable. They wouldn't even write it down on the service order. If I was still concerned, pick a cold day later in the winter and leave it with them overnight for a morning check. I might do it just for 'peace of mind'.
And while I was there, I figured that I might as well get rid of the dreaded AM brake squeal and asked them to install the shim kit. The service advisors looked at me as though I had sprouted another head! One would think that by now they would have gotten the word on this. I called the 800#, spoke to a nice lady named Daisy who gave me the part # (26298AE020) and the service bulletin # (630-01), and called back the dealer with the info. The kit is now on order....
While on the phone, I asked Daisy to pass on my word of thanks to Patti for her participation in this forum and all of the useful info she provided. This is my 8th new car, and have never had so much valuable data at my fingertips!
Steve
-juice
I have to agree with juice that my next purchase decision will probably be heavily swayed by Patti. Subaru better be paying her well!
Ken
Perhaps it's because of the way the oil sits in the engine. It takes longer for the oil to reach the valves on an in-line four or a 60 degree V than it does for a boxer.
-juice
I know for certain that it is a separate part from the ignition switch, the computer parts list just shows the ignition switch and not the ring.
Because of this my parts guy tells me it is not separate but it does not make sense, if it was not meant to be replaced separately why does it just pull straight off the switch as a separate part.
I know on Hondas which are assembled the same way you can buy the illumination ring as a separate part as I have done so.
Thanks and Cheers Pat.
Well I am pleased to report so far I am very happy with them, They are quiet and smooth running, as well it has been pouring rain here since last night and the performance is great in the wet.
I had to make a panic stop last night in the wet and no drama just a smooth controlled stop,
so far so good.
I do not expect much different performance in snow, I will post my observations about how they perform in the white stuff when it finally arrives here.
Cheers Pat.
The accesories catalog for 02 shows the hitch part number to be L1010LS001, but you mention L1010LS100. Which is correct?
Craig
Great idea to swap the OB console with the new one. It solves the cupholder problem as well as the accidental turning on of the seat heaters.
Could you give me a brief idea what's involved with doing the swap?
Thanks,
Vince
If you look back on the Modifications and photo gallery forums, you will see some recent discussions as well as the part #s necessary to complete the swap.
There is not a whole lot involved...you just need about 5 different parts and about $150. Once you pop the trim around the shift selector and undo the 4 screws holding the console cover (the part with the actual cup-holders in it), you have access to 4 more screws that hold the lower half of the console. All of it just swaps right over...it is pretty intuitive.
-r
Unfortunately, they did not leave me the new paperwork, so I cannot verify the P/N. The accessories brochure says L1010LS001, but my parts order ticket says L1010LS100 so I don't really know which is right.
Steve
Craig
Oh, ...not with Subaru.
Cheers,
-wdb
-mike
See post 3775 (about 8 up from yours) for your answer.....
Good luck,
Steve
-juice
The good news: new head gasket does not leak.
The bad: it threw a MIL right away (not flashing) and while it idles fairly well, it stumbles when you tip into the throttle, and then recovers and revs OK. I didn't try to drive it after discovering this problem, we then set about trying to diagnose the problem without an OBD-II code scanner. (trying to find a compatible one to borrow now, will order one but it won't be here before the new year in all likelihood.)
Initial considerations:
- timing off
- vacuum leak
- air leak behind MAF sensor
Checked for a vacuum hose disconnected, couldn't find anything. Will look again tonight. Removed the torque chamber (black box on top of the throttle body) and found that it wasn't making a good seal, so I repaired the gasket (actually, a gutted filter) with adhesive. Quit last night at this point, to let the adhesive dry and also to get home at a reasonable time.
If that doesn't fix the problem and I don't find a disconnected vacuum line, then I think it's the timing. Before we removed the timing belt, I turned the motor over with the crank accessory bolt to the timing marks. There are notches on each cam pulley that point straight up. Used white out to paint a stripe across the belt and cam pulleys at that mark, and then put a third mark on the crankshaft gear.
The odd thing is that after reinstalling the LH head the cam pulley wouldn't stay at TDC. Without a timing belt, when you turn the cam pulleys they advance in 45-90 degree rotations at time due to the cam profile and valvesprings. The cam pulley is keyed so that it cannot be out of phase... so based on that, we made the belt line up on the two marks we could get to TDC (RH cam, crankshaft) and then lined up on the third marks on the belt and LH cam even though it wasn't at TDC. I still don't feel comfortable about that, but the car idled fine and revved OK other than the initial stumble. It isn't fun removing the timing cover and resetting the timing, plus we don't have the luxury of a known good now, so I hope this isn't it.
-Colin
PS, why didn't I spend more time on it? Worked 8 hours on Saturday, a few more hours Sunday and then went to a birthday party for my cousin. And I'm home sick today with a touch of the flu... bleh.
I'd suggest the same thing I suggested to him - take it apart, and put it back together carefully, piece by piece.
You lost me on the timing issue, way over my head. Hope you feel better. Chicken soup.
-juice
does the age of the belt come into play? (ie: is it stretched?)
isn't a non-flashing MIL representative of something amiss with the emissions stuff? if that's the case, then it's gotta be a hose or connector missed in reassembly.
-Brian
flashing MIL means there's a misfire, which I would expect if the timing were off by more than a tooth or two. also note that the EJ25 SOHC uses two critical sensors for timing-- the crank angle sensor which is right above the crankshaft timing gear, and the cam angle sensor which is housed in the LH cam sprocket (it's not really a pulley, as I referred to this morning--it's got teeth).
anyway, if I saw a flashing MIL I'd probably tear it down right away and certainly wouldn't have tried looking for other causation while letting the engine run.
re: age of the belt
they look frayed and weathered when in need of replacement and this one still looks very good at 38k miles. yes they stretch a bit over time, and the EJ25 uses an automatic belt tensioner. it's a viscous hydraulic piston that presses against the front of the block, which makes a tension roller attached to it take up the slack in the belt. no idea why they chose that, FHI being oddballs I guess. you have to compress the little piston slowly (over 3 min) in a press and then stick a 2mm allen wrench through it. once you have it in place and all is good, you pull out the allen wrench-- kind of like a cotter pin-- and tension is maintained.
i'll see what kind of pics I have tonight, I didn't take many because I got very dirty and didn't want to touch the camera. I had an oil leak earlier this year and the cooling fans sprayed it all over everything on the bottom half of the engine. should have degreased and power washed it...
-Colin
The belt is only scheduled for replacement at 105k miles (inspection at 90k).
If you have to go back in there, wash it then. This is why you should have a 3rd vehicle like I do. Wait a sec, you do, one with two wheels I believe...
-juice
but anyway no I haven't reset the ECU and restarted the car yet. we were really pressed for time last night and there's literally no more than 20 minutes of diagnostics in the car since it was fired and the problem noticed. the battery is disconnected now, and tonight when I put the intake box back together and check again for loose vacuum hoses I am considering the possiblity that nothing else is wrong. I'm not getting my hopes up too much though.
-Colin
Good luck tonight.
-juice