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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I had a friend who had a door ding about the size of yours. It looks good, and cost about $100.00. Dents on the edge of the panel don't work well with Dentless repairs. Those in the center of the panel work OK. I tried to get a dent fixed around my wheel well and they wouldn't fix it because they couldn't get good results. $600.00 for the old fashioned repair.
  • Had it done on my wife's ci and it was great When she bought it it had a ton of door dings and rug rat dents on the hood. Dentpro took care of nearly all of them for less than $200 and you can tell where they were. Well worth it.

    bit
  • I general, does an AT car eat through pads more quickly than an MT car? Seems like it would.

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Probably a little, because even when stopped an auto trans tends to creep forward, and the brakes have to hold it.

    Also, it's more common to use engine braking with a manual on down hills (though autos can too).

    -juice
  • I general, does an AT car eat through pads more quickly than an MT car? Seems like it would.

    bit
  • Had it done on my wife's ci and it was great When she bought it it had a ton of door dings and rug rat dents on the hood. Dentpro took care of nearly all of them for less than $200 and you can tell where they were. Well worth it.

    bit
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    anyway, yes automatics generally do wear pads faster although the driver's braking style is still the #1 determiner of wear, and environment (hills, flat ground, gridlock, stop&go, open hwy) is #2.

    it's not because of holding the car back at a stop though, that is minimal at best. it's because there is very little engine braking with an automatic.

    -Colin
  • jresjres Posts: 69
    I'm with Colin, driving style is the #1 reason for brake wear, if an automatic transmission is properly adjusted, the car really shouldn't creep at all when the car is stopped. As much as I don't enjoy driving them, modern auto trans. are better than that.

    On another note, the rough idle that I posted about turned into a solid check engine light the day after I posted, It went into the dealer and turned out to be an O2 sensor which was covered under warranty. Lets hope the replacement lasts more than 15K miles.

    John
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    so tough. You can make them to last longer but they are so noisey. If the noise is less, the pad has less metallic material and they wear sooner. It's a fine line.

    Patti
  • francophilefrancophile Posts: 667
    Quieter pads are often dustier too, making for messy wheels. And I know how much y'all hate messy wheels :-)

    Cheers,
    -wdb
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wax 'em!

    Seriously, mine look as-new. Even after 11k miles.

    -juice
  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    I fail to understand the concern expressed here about Subaru brake pads. On my '94 Golf, the pads lasted 40,000 km (24k miles) at best (MT, gentle use, a lot of engine braking) the rotors not much longer, the wheels were constantly filthy and they were only fairly quiet. On my Forester the pads were judged to be 10-15% worn at 12,000 km (AT, little engine braking, mainly city driving) the wheels show virtually no dust, and I have yet to hear a sound from the brakes. The feel is slightly spongy, but the modulation is great.

    Ross
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm happy with my brakes, too. 39k miles and still going strong, never a squeek.

    But my dad's Outback does squeek a bit first thing in the AM. I've heard it, though it goes away pretty much once you're out of the driveway.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I think my XT6 still has the original pads on it. I've had it for 30K and about 12-13 auto-xs plus numerous other spirited driving encounters w/o a problem. But my dad's '97 legacy goes through them like water, ever 13K-17K miles.

    -mike
  • dnickeldnickel Posts: 17
    My 99 Forester is coming up to 60,000km and my 3 year / 60km warranty is about done. Should I get anything checked - there is no scheduled maintenance other than oil change. Someone suggested I get the car checked at a non Subaru dealer since the dealer may not want to find/do the warranty work because they don't get full payment or something?
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Daren,

    Unless you don't have any warranty issues, then I don't see any problem with taking it to a qualified mecahnic.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If it ain't broke...why try to fix it?

    Have you noticed anything wrong?

    -juice
  • hansklosshanskloss Posts: 6
    Hi Guys!
    I have a brand new Subbie Outback 2001. What I have noticed is a whistling noise from my exhaust ( noise is coming from cat. converter towards the end of the car). Maybe it is because the car is new but you can hear it inside driving a car. It sounds like a high whistle or something ( not much but still annoying!)
    Has anyone had the same problem?
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    That is really unusual. I'd suggest letting a dealer check it out to see what is going on. Is the whistle constant or at certain speeds?

    Patti
  • hansklosshanskloss Posts: 6
    patti3m- whistle depends on your engine rpm: on idle speed it is constant, when you accelerate it is going higher etc. Very strange and like I said: VERY ANNOYING!
    (the worst thing is that you can hear it INSIDE the car)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I've heard of radio interference causing a whistle, but if yours is on the outside it could be an exhaust leak. In that case I'd have it checked right away because it's polluting unnecessarily.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    that if you accelerate properly, you can whistle to the music on the radio? ;-) Your dealer should be able to take care of it. Welcome to the club!

    Greg
  • dnickeldnickel Posts: 17
    Nothing in particular wrong - I had a valve cover gasket go a few months ago that was fixed. (I want them to check that everything is fine now). And the standard clutch chatter on my first 1 or 2 shifts from a stop each morning.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If it gives you piece of mind, you could have an outside mechanic do a basic inspection and service. I know Pep Boys does has a package for $300 where they basically do everything you'd do at a 60k mile service, minus an alignment.

    I'm not sure if they have them up in Canada, though.

    -juice
  • jim2741jim2741 Posts: 20
    Can anything be done about it? I own a 2000 RS 5sp. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm unable to determine any particular patterns with it. Any help would be great.

    Thanks - Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yours should still be under the powertrain warranty, so I would ask a dealer to have a look. I'm not sure what would cause it.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    jim-

    stock exhaust or aftermarket? when do you hear the pop?

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Come to think of it, BugBomb's RS used to back fire on occasion. He had aftermarket exhaust, though.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    yes, mine pops and burbles quite a bit under engine braking. actually it pops a bit when I lift to shift up too.

    if it's stock though we might be able to help Jim out.

    -Colin
  • jim2741jim2741 Posts: 20
    Well, I thought about asking the dealer to take a look, but since that is the only very minor problem I'm having, I'm not sure I want them messing around with it. It is the stock exhaust system and if I had to say, it most frequently happens when I'm shifting from 2nd to 3rd.

    Jim
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