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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • One of the options on the forester01 S+ was an air cleaner. Is this available after market? If so where is the best place to buy and what is involved in installation? Has anyone had any experience with after market alarm systems? Dealers in the NY area do not order cars with factory alarms and charge $500 to install.
  • amishraamishra Posts: 367
    why not install the factory alarm yourself? I installed the alarm in my Outback myself - took about 2 hours
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    Hi Michael. The dealer should be able to handle it with no problem. If you run into one, call us (I know you all know the number 1-800-SUBARU3) and tell them that Patti at Edmunds referred you. Ask the Rep. to speak to me about your situation.

    Happy New Year!

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    FYI - we (Subaru of America) do not "Certify" used cars. However, it sure sounds like you have had your share of problems. The clutch and sway bar may have something to do with the previous owner, but there is no way to say for sure. Is the dealer taking care of everything to your satisfaction? If not, let us know and we can get involved and try to make sure all is made right for you.

    Cheer up - there are not many customer's that we can't help!!

    Patti
  • Your local Autozone Store now carries K&N airfilters for the nice price of $41.95, part # 33-2075 is listed for the 96-99 Outback model only but works just fine in all the Legacy's for those years.

    Garry
    www.subaruclub.com
  • You can buy the air cleaner & the alarm from www.qsubaru.com . The air filter looks like an easy install. The alarm system should be easy also.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I think the original poster was referring to the Air Filtration system for cabin ventilation, not air-filter for engine breathing! :) If it is the Air Filtration system, you need to get it from a subie dealer of which Qsubaru is!

    In the NY area, try Staten Island Subaru/Isuzu, talk to Mark or Ira 718-979-9595 they can and will order anything you want, and do have some with factory alarms.

    -mike
  • torektorek Posts: 92
    No one ever replied earlier to my question about 15k mile maintenance -- is there really any point to the expensive testing the dealer wants to do, or should I just change the air filter and call it done? :-)

    Also (but perhaps I should put this in "mods"): I looked for the fender flares that Juice mentioned ages ago, in the dealer's "Forester accessories", and did not see them. Where does one get them and how hard are they really to install?

    Chris
  • nypdaunypdau Posts: 38
    Well, my enthusiasm for Forester snow performance is somewhat dampened :/ Just a day after posting a rave in the "meet the members' discussion I now find that my Forester has a pronounced shimmy at speeds over 60mph. I can only attribute this to having driven in the snow here in nyc yesterday. I did not do doughnuts or any other maneuvers other than powering into and out of parking spots, and even then a minimum of maneuvering was required. So do you all think I just need an alignment? I just had the dealer rotate the tires last week too. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
    James
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    nypdau:

    Do you park your Forester outdoors? Or indoors?

    Since you mentioned that you were driving in snow yesterday, you reminded me of an awful wheel imbalance or shimmy that I experienced about fifteen years ago. This was also a day after having driven in slushy snow. The stuff had frozen into a solid block on the lower inside of one of my wheels. When I drove the car it didn't break loose until I brought it into a shop for a wheel balace job. That was when they discovered the ice block, hit it with a hammer to break it free, and sent me on my way. No problems since.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It's snow packed in the rim. It happens to my trooper and basically any car I've driven through mounds of snow that have alloy or wheels where snow can get caked on. Don't fret, just try to kick the snow out of the crevices gently, or hit some bumps and loosen it up.

    -mike
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    James,

    Sounds like ice build up in your rims. Clear away the snow and make sure you don't have big chunks of ice on your wheels. Waxing your wheels helps prevent ice build up somewhat.

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    The minimum that should be done is what the maintenance manual states. There are dealers that love to add-on a lot of extras. I've seen price differences of $115 in my area because of this. Find out what your dealer changes and/or inspects. If it's not by the book, tell them that you only want what's in the manual.
    Dennis
  • nypdaunypdau Posts: 38
    Blane, Paisan and Kens:
    You guys were right on target. I knocked a good sized chunk of ice off the right front wheel, problem solved! I absolutely would have been trucking into the local garage for an alignment had it not been for this forum:) Thanks again.

    James
  • I have been trying to find qsubaru on the web without success. What is the correct web address?
  • crashton6crashton6 Posts: 245
    Sorry I gave you the wrong web address. It's http:/qsubaru.homepage.com/ I just tried to go there but couldn't. Maybe they're down for the holiday.
  • logger2logger2 Posts: 31
    The dealer where I bought the car isnt much help. I moved since i bought the car and haven't been back. The dealer in Nova Scotia Canada have graciously fixed all that is wrong with my car and did call the regional service manager about the timing belt thing. However at the time he would not do anything about the car. Since then I have written a letter to subura customer relations in Canada to see how I make out. Sorry about the 'certified' thing, i didnt mean it to be like a formal certification thing. The dealer promised that every lease return subaru has a thorough inspection before resale and is good to go and even discouraged me from buying an extended warranty!! Thanks for all your help, I'll let you know how things turn out.

    Jason
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    Dennis,

    Thanks for the input on both topics.

    I grew up between Aynor and Conway - graduated from Aynor HS - more detail than that and you'll really think I'm a redneck. I rented an Outback for a visit in July and drove my Forester down in September. Used both on a lot of dirt roads in the swamps of Horry and Marion Counties. I found the Forester superior in that regard (though I had to be careful as the OB had SC tags and the F has PA tags) so I've made the right choice for now.

    Ed
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Small world! My dad went to Aynor H.S.! That was in the early 60's I believe. I went to Myrtle Beach H.S. in the '80's, currently living in NJ and my parents are now in Loris. Not many Subies around there. There should be though, Subes love rainy weather and dirt roads. :-)
    Dennis
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    Qsubaru's (AKA Darlene) homepage is maintained by Juice who has deserted us for the Brazilian sunshine. Not sure when he'll be back but it shouldn't be too much longer. You can always call Darlene at here 800 number (which of course I don't have cause I usually just get it off the web). Can somebody help?

    -Frank P.
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    After about 6 months of ownership of our 99 Forester I, we noticed that our seats were starting to wrinkle and I mean badly. When we took it back to our dealer my wife was told they all do this and its because of the entry and exiting of the vehicle. I have owned many cars with cloth seats and never have had this problem. Its got to the point now that on the passenger and drivers seats that the outside seat back bolster is so wrinkled and it feels like its separated from the foam material, it almost sags. I can't believe SOA would design a vehicle so 'that they all do this' but then we have had nothing but problem with this vehicle and if its that 'they all do it' or they cannot find or duplicate the problem!!!
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    How 'bout that! South Carolinians NOT named Dave who have Soobs and live in the Northeast Corridor!
    I graduated from Aynor in '81 and my mom did in '57. We lived - my folks still do - between Cool Springs and Bayboro, which is pretty close to Loris - clser to Loris than Myrtle Beach, actually. They own a weekend house on the Little Pee Dee in Marion County; it was taking all those dirt roads through the swamps to get there where I gave my Forester its best workout.

    I currently live in Bucks County, PA, about 40 minutes NNE of Philly. Any more of this small world talk and we'll have to take it offline - which I'd be plenty happy to do. (Apologies to the rest of the board - it's so rare to find Southerners who reverse migrated!)

    Ed
  • i'm thinking of replacing the bridgestone re92's on my 2000 gt limited sedan with michelin pilot xgt h4's. has anyone had experinece with michelins,or any replacement tire for that matter. the bridgestones have 20,000 miles on them, but they don't feel as sur-footed as when they were new. i'd appreciate your feedback.
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    For less money (from the tirerack) I would get the Dunlop SP Sport 5000 if your goal is a good performance all-season.

    Much, much better reviews than the XGT H4. The only good Michelin XGT is the PILOT XGT and you pay for it ($160 ea in 205/55-16).

    -Colin
  • tlimatlima Posts: 124
    I second the Dunlop brand. Replaced original Goodyear Gatorbacks on my Ford Probe GT V6 with Dunlop SP 4000s a few years back. These were 225x50 16's. The 4000s were an all-season performance tire with much better dry grip than the summer-only Gators and performed much better in snow.

    New Forester will get Dunlops (if available) when the time comes.

    -Tony
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    The first time I went in the mud with my OBS was on a dirt road off highway 90 after 2 days of rain.
    I think my dad used to live in Cool Springs. My e-mail address is in my profile.
    Dennis
  • On my '01 Forester, I have to remove the plastic
    'skid plate' to get at the drain plug and filter.
    Any problems with leaving this skid plate off
    permanently? It's a real pain having to remove
    it every 5000 miles.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It does protect your engine from un-necessary splashing which could harm stuff inside?
    It's funny, since the steel skid plates on my Trooper aren't required to be removed for oil changes! (Then again I don't need a jack either :) )

    -mike
  • torektorek Posts: 92
    It is kind of a pain to remove, but I keep it on myself.

    I do not need a jack to do oil changes on the Forester. I just drive it up onto the thin/flat side of a pair of 2x6s, which gets it an extra 1.5 inches up off the concrete -- just enough room. (I had real ramps for the Acura, where the filter is behind the engine, but I lost them in a move long ago.)

    Chris
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    Hi gang- Well, the dreaded CEL came on a couple of days ago. I religiously tighten my gas cap with a least a 1/2 dozen clicks so I knew that wasn't the problem but knowing the Forester's reputation for having a sensitive CEL, I figured it was just an anomaly. So, I figured I'd just disconnect the battery and reset the CEL. No such luck, the CEL came right back on. I couldn't get an appt until this AM but the service rep said it was okay to drive as long as the CEL wasn't flashing. Anyway, after spending an hour at the dealer, I got my Forester back. Turns out the problem was a bad "Air Fuel Sensor". This seems vaguely familiar. Has anyone else experienced this?

    FYI: I'd normally do a search of the entire topic but unless I'm missing something, that function doesn't exist with the new software. Hopefully Edmunds will restore this useful feature in the near future.

    -Frank P.
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