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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • leharveyleharvey Posts: 10
    Wondered if anyone had seen any other reports of this:
    Bolt that holds the timing belt tensioner pulley 'sheared' off on my 99 Forester (155,000 miles) -- severe valve damage when the belt released. Shop is working w/ the car now. I am the original owner and all maint had been done.
    Orig timing belt replaced at 85,000. I had never seen this issue reported before .. curious if anyone else had?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    99 Forester was that a DOHC or SOHC? I'm guessing since you had valve damage it was a DOHC engine.

    Did they replace the tensioner at 85K, usually it's a good idea to replace the tensioner when they put in a new timing belt.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Nah, loud sounds usually comes with distortion and is simply obnoxious. High end audio isn't like that at all, they go for quality over noise.
  • leharveyleharvey Posts: 10
    This engine is (suprisingly) a SOHC ... the bolt broke at about 70mph which may have contributed to the damage. Shop manual states that valve damage is 'unlikely or minimal' so guess I got 'minimal'. The tensioner assbly was not replaced prior to failure ... suspect may have gotten some play in there which stressed the bolt.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hmm interesting, I blew my timing belt on my XT6 (non-interference also) under heavy acceleration but didn't blow the valves :(

    -mike
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Specifically, which bolt on the tensioner unit was it? Was it the actual pulley "axle" bolt?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think the EJ25 actually is an interference design...
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The SOHC ones aren't though.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Gotcha. I knew mine was.
  • leharveyleharvey Posts: 10
    The bolt was the main 'axle' bolt which anchors the assembly to the block.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,282
    Very unusual. Were you hearing any noise, such as humming, rattling, etc, prior to the failure?
  • leharveyleharvey Posts: 10
    Absolutly nothing. Owned the car since new - cruising on interstate highway at about 70mph. Heard a 'snap' type noise - loss of power. Coasted to a stop and 'check engine' light came on as engine died. Shop that works on the car also said this was very unusual. Anyway, looks like no major damage other than valves - based on this - I would recommend (at the very least) checking the tensioner assembly and attachment bolt when replacing the timing belt.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Would that bolt have been taken out or loosened when the timing belt was changed at 85K?? I wonder if it was overtightened when reinstalled. We would be able to tell how the bolt failed by looking at the pieces.
  • leharveyleharvey Posts: 10
    I looked at the bolt and it appeared to be a 'clean' break.
    No twisting or anything - just appeared to shear off right where it went into the block. Yes, it could have been over tightened or have worked loose and gotten 'stressed'.

    Shop has ordered new valves and parts to re-assemble .. probably looking at 2100 - 2500 in repairs. Machine shop says no damage other than the bent valves.

    Plan to keep the car for a couple more years - with the way I had cared for the car and really liked the handling and all - just a little discouraging to not get more miles before major engine problems.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,282
    As there was no associated noise, I would rule out the possibility of it having worked loose. Also unlikely to be a problem with the bearings on that pulley as a potential source. Possibly over-tightened and led to eventual stress failure, or the bolt had an impurity/irregularity that led to the failure.
  • leharveyleharvey Posts: 10
    Update: Well, got the car back this week after repairs.
    Seems to run smooth and power is good.
    Couple of things .. Air bag light is on (was not on prior to repair)-shop was unable to retrieve code and suggested taking it to the dealer (which I will do) - also -cruise control will not set using the 'set' lever on steering column. Wondering if these are related = common connector, etc? Cannot find anything 'loose' under dash.

    Anyone have any ideas? Will be taking it back to the shop for 'head retorque' and valve adjust in 1000M so will have it checked then ...
  • I'm having cold starting issues on my 98 GT wagon. It actually just started happening a few weeks ago. When the car is cold it takes about 6 or 7 cranks (although in one single try or turn-key) for it to start. When the car is warm, it takes about 2 to 3 cranks. I thought it was the battery, but I just got a new one and still no change. I checked the oil levels, everything seems to be normal. Any thoughts? :confuse:
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    My guess would be spark plugs and/or plug wires.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You're priming the fuel pump, I suppose?
  • Priming the fuel pump? What's that?
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