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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    My '06 Outback makes a fairly loud "clack" noise in similar situations. It is the brake pad sliding in the clip. Perhaps it could be this and not the suspension at all? Worth checking, anyway. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I saw some manuals on CDs on eBay are they worth getting or the Haynes Repair Manuals from Pep Boys and the like?

    I have a DOHC. I have an oil smell when I stop at traffic signals that did not exist before. It dissappears when the car is in motion. I checked the mileage and am getting approx. 20 mpg. I remembered an old test for a bad cylinder. Pull one spark plug wire at a time and see if the engine still misses. On the Forester, I would have to start the car each time.

    Once I find the right avenue for the manuals. I'll get started. Thanks
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    That is the type of compression tester I have and it has been a decade since I used it (I got rid of the car I used it on to buy the Forester).

    Complicated may have been the wrong term. More involved may be appropriate. My 85 Laser was easier to work on. The plugs stared me in the face when I opened the hood. In about four hours I could have the head assembly off. On the Forester I could only get to one plug with out taking anything else apart. Plus back then I have a 91 Sentra as a primary car so I had time to work on the Laser. The Forester is my on and only so any work would have to be done in a day.

    I will take a look at your site. Hey, is the Forester engine used in any other models from Subaru? Thanks
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    In 2000, the Legacy, Outback and Impreza RS had the same 2.5L as the Forester. (And it's still the case in 2007 - Legacy, Outback, Impreza & Forester all have the 2.5L H4 as their base engine.) Maybe a technical pro here could comment on the possibility of putting a more advanced 2.5 from a newer model into your 2000, eliminating the risk of getting an older one with the infamous "head gasket issue" at the same time.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I have a DOHC. I have an oil smell when I stop at traffic signals that did not exist before. It dissappears when the car is in motion. I checked the mileage and am getting approx. 20 mpg. I remembered an old test for a bad cylinder. Pull one spark plug wire at a time and see if the engine still misses. On the Forester, I would have to start the car each time.

    Are you sure it's oil you are smelling? Can you see it coming out the tailpipe? My guess is that it might be grease from the CV joint hitting the hot exhaust pipe.

    -mike
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I look at your web page. The pictures were fantastic, it gave me an idea of what I had to do. Though, I do not have your setup for pulling the engine and working on it. Maybe I have pull the head off in the car. I heard clicking sounds on the passenger/curb side of the engine so I believe my problem is limited to one cylinder. Over the next two fill ups I will verify my mileage/engine performance. And the smell maybe telling me that the intake valve is not seating completely. Hence, un-ignited combustion gas are being force back through the intake manifold into the engine compartment. Then sucked through the air vents. I plan going to Tradebit to get the Factory Shop Manuals the sell for download ($15). What are your thoughts on this? Thanks
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I was going see if I could get some additional information from one of the other forums (Legacy, Outback and Impreza). Since the use the same engine, I can get more help with fixing the problem myself. Thanks
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    Good thinkin'. :)
  • grahampetersgrahampeters AustraliaPosts: 1,583
    G'day

    Might be worth checking that the oil level is not too high. I had similar problems when servicing garage overfilled the sump on my 99 Outback. Erratic performance, odd smells and dramatically reduced fuel economy as the mmajor moving parts were operating in oil bath rather than splashed or sprayed oil.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • So, in a final attempt to fix my 07 Outback XT that has been shutting down and resorting to 'fail safe mode', the dealer has replaced the throttle sensors, throttle body, wiring harness and finally the entire ECU. Only to have me pick up the car and have it shut down again on my way out of town for Thanksgiving.

    Frankly... this blows.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    That there is what is known as a lemon. You have waited in good faith for it to be repaired and they have done what they can do to fix it. I think, at this point, you should simply ask for a replacement. It is nearly inconceivable that you will experience anything coming close to this headache you now know.

    Best wishes, as you certainly deserve better! ;)
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    It sounds to me like you are on the right track. I have not used the shop manuals for a Subaru, so I cannot comment on them. But, as long as they cover the work you need to perform, the price certainly seems reasonable to me.

    You can pull the heads with the engine in the car. The clearance between the engine and the frame certainly leaves much to be desired, but you already know that from accessing the spark plugs! If I remember right, always needed to remove the air cleaner housing, washer bottle, and battery when changing plugs in the '96. It had the same engine as your 2000 Forester (2.5L DOHC).

    Also, when you first dig in to it, pull the timing cover off and check to ensure all the cam sprockets are lined up appropriately. If there is one off by a tooth or two, that could be causing your fit.

    As for the oil smell, something is (or was) dripping on your exhaust. If it is currently dripping, you should be able to trace the leak back to origin from under the car. The most likely sources include valve (head) cover gaskets, camshaft seals, or front crankshaft seal. Otherwise, it is likely due to insufficient cleaning of the external components after the work was performed on the vehicle. If so, the smell will lessen, but it takes a while to burn off all the residue. You can smell it while stopped because there is no wind to keep it from wafting straight up to the cabin's air intake.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    After looking at the pictures on your website, I have decided to do the repair myself. I found a shop that will do the valve job for $180 plus parts (2-3 day turnaround). A dealership said all the gaskets I need will run about $150. All I need now is the manuals and another car for about 10 days. Compression should be 140-165 they told me and I can get an after market tool to use with compression gauge. I am not sure when I can start, the original problem and repair seriously set me back financially and trying to recover especially with the holidays coming looks impossible. Pray for me. Thanks

    Phil
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good luck and keep us posted.
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    oh brother :(

    Looks like you'll need to go the lemon route.
    Contact SOA CDS and open up a case file. They probably already have one.

    An '08 Outback XT would be a good exchange.... maybe have a free In-Dash Nav thrown in ;)

    -Dave
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Something I found interesting just today. These numbers were compiled from my last two fillup. 210.3 miles on 8.568 gallons of regular yields an average of 24.5448 mpg next fillup 11.844 gallons after traveling 296.6 miles resulted in a 25.0422 mpg rating. The combined fuel economy number was 24.83 mpg. The problem that I have doesn't seem to be that bad at all. Prior to the 8th of November (date the pulley went bad) I was getting 25-26 mpg. I don't know what this is telling me. But the first thing I am going to check and soon is the compression. I might just be off a tooth. What does it look like to you guys?
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I thought about the lemon route. I would probably get it for 2 months or so. Register it then put it on my insurance. Then drop the Forester all to save some money. Then get rid of the lemon once the repairs are complete.

    What is CDS? And are you saying they will give me another car in exchange? Why?
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    Phil,

    I have the 2000 shop manuals (half of them) for the Subaru Legacy and Outback. I don't think they're very specific.

    Given a choice, I'd go for a Haynes manual. Even if it's a different year, what you're doing on the engine won't change. I think the Haynes step-by-step instructions are the best.

    You've got my prayers.

    Jim
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Phil, Dave was replying to a post by another individual regarding an '07 XT (turbo) that has a serious "ghost" problem. Your car, unfortunately, would not fall in this category. I do not think your car is a lemon. Yours is just suffering a maintenance issue.

    Depending on what you find when you get in there, it might just be a timing issue. If so, that is a problem left there by the shop that performed the work. A good faith "discount" would be in order from that shop, I would think. The good part is that you HAVE to open up the timing covers to get to the heads anyway, so you will discover if the timing is the problem long before you crack the engine itself open. ;)

    If the shop manuals do not have photograph-supported step-by-step, Haynes will do you well. This is especially so if you are going to have a shop seat new valves for you.

    I know exactly how you feel regarding finances; time of year is somewhat less significant for me though, as I feel no holiday-relegated obligation in the gift-giving department. Ah, life. Gotta love it!

    Wishing you the best,

    -Wes-
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Wes,
    What do you think about the numbers I compiled from my last two fillup. 210.3 miles on 8.568 gallons of regular yields an average of 24.5448 mpg next fillup 11.844 gallons after traveling 296.6 miles resulted in a 25.0422 mpg rating. The combined fuel economy number was 24.83 mpg. The problem that I have doesn't seem to be that bad at all. Prior to the 8th of November (date the pulley went bad) I was getting 25-26 mpg. I don't know what this is telling me. But the first thing I am going to check and soon is the compression. I might just be off a tooth. What does it look like to you? Thursday (it will be in the mid 50s), I am going to checking the timing before I do the compression test. I downloaded a PDF version of the service manual, it reminds me of the manuals I had for my Laser. I am ready to get to it.
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