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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd say about an 80% chance that is a wheel bearing.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yes, there is a fix: buy a manual transmission. :D

    If you have an auto, and stab the gas, the throttle-by-wire first interprets your input, then sends a signal to the ECU to acceleration, which then sends a signal to the auto trans to shift down, which then shifts, which then has to build a load before the turbo will spool, which then spools the turbo, which then boosts the engine.

    There's your delay.

    With a manual the process is a whole lot quicker. Shift down and hit the gas: bye-bye.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I dirve in city traffic all the time, live in manhattan. Yeah there is a bit of lag, but not any more lag than any other turbo i've driven. Mine is a MT also.

    I'm looking forward to the 3.6L engine in the next itteration to see how that does :)

  • The '08 Outback XT I drove in city traffic was a bucking bronco thanks to lag and auto trans = No fun at all.
    Sounds like Rowing a manual and keeping engine above 4K would fix that, but sorry, for me that's also no fun in heavy traffic.

    Now on the track, hi reving + manual = fun :shades: No track to work here though, save the railed TRIMAX one.
  • Yes, the OB XT auto has noticeable turbo lag. But as a frame of reference, you should go test drive an Acrua RDX. Now THAT is turbo lag. You press the gas and NOTHING happens. 1-2 seconds later - VROOOOOM! It's downright dangerous.
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 683
    Turbo in full boost + city traffic = crash

    Exactly why I bought an Outback 3.0R instead of the GT wagon. Though it would have been nice to have had the better brakes and lower ride height of the GT.
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    What juice said.
    It wasn't turbo lag you'd experienced city driving. It's auto transmission lag.
    Stumping on the gas pedal compounds the lag.

    Turbo in full boost + city traffic = crash

  • the '04 malibu maxx I have has drive by wire throttle and 4 speed auto. It will respond anywhere from 0.5 to 1 second from a throttle input. Minimal lag, though engine runs out of air at high revs (I only get to that on freeway passing).

    The outback auto's not the only sluggish one out there - the '08 Rav4 AWD proved only marginally better, and it had a V6. But at least it doesn't surge in city traffic.

    I've read twin-screw turbos have much less lag, but Subaru ain't got none yet :sick:
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Sounds like a mix up between AT drivetrain lag/surge and turbo lag/surge.
    Having a twin-scroll may minimize the AT lag, but probably not the turbo surge.

    As to surging. If you're referring to turbo surge, the number one no-no with driving an AT turbocharged in city traffic is feeding more gas to get over the AT lag. More gas higher rev. The beast awakens.

    1. Drive a NA engine with good displacement.
    2. Change driver type.
    3. Tune engine to driver liking.

    I did 2 and 3 with my '03 WRX 4EAT. To date, no city traffic complains or white knuckle situation. :D

  • Did Subaru actually change the Outback Auto trans shift points early '08?
    I remember reading on another forum... :confuse:
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    didn't the JDM legacy turbos have twin scroll??
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Certain models do. Usually special WRXs.
  • psfod3psfod3 Posts: 63
    About one month ago the check engine light on my 03 Forester went on. The code issued showed that I needed a new catalytic converter. Now one month later and three thousand miles more the light is still on and the car is riding with no problems. I have 166000 k miles on the car. What is the downfall of not fixing this situation until I have a driving problem?
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 683
    The code issued showed that I needed a new catalytic converter. Now one month later and three thousand miles more the light is still on and the car is riding with no problems. I have 166000 k miles on the car. What is the downfall of not fixing this situation until I have a driving problem?

    If you have a required emission inspection you will fail the test with such an indication. In addition your fuel economy may degrade if the cat is plugging.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Get or borrow a scanner and reset the code. See if it comes back.

    If the light starts blinking, it's a more serious problem that you have to fix ASAP. A solid light is a warning, though I agree the cat may get plugged up and the engine could stall if ignored indefinitely.
  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    The door gasket on my son's '02 Forester froze to the frame and pulled away when he opened the door. I was able to get the gasket back on the "T" clips, but several of the small holes in the gasket for inserting the clip split when the gasket stuck to the frame. I suspect that the T clips will no longer hold as the holes are now too large.

    Other than replacing the whole gasket, is there a fix (sealant/glue?) that anyone can recommend to repair those small holes

  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,714
    If holes in the weatherstripping fit reasonably flush against metal when T-clips are inserted into frame (i.e., they are not exposed to a lot of water), you could use "krazy glue_ type" adhesive, which works amazingly well on rubber.

    Without actually seeing what is going on, my guess would be ---

    - and there's no guarantee offered or responsibility taken for this suggestion -

    Insert the clip back into the weather strip, then use the "krazy glue" on the rubber edges that split, and pinch the weatherstrip together so the edges close back together and around the clip.
    Hold for about 10 - 20 seconds and then release, and the holes should be well closed and the t-clips held in place again.
    Wait at least 2 - 5 minutes for the glue to thoroughly dry before remounting the weatherstrip.

    Be very careful not to touch the glue itself or it will weld the rubber stripping or t-clip to your fingers. To be safe, keep some nail polish remover or acetone handy as that will dissolve the glue (but don't let removers touch the paint !! )

    Good luck! ;)
  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    I had not thought about krazy glue at all. The worst that can happen is that it wont work and I will end up getting a door gasket so it is worth a try
  • my 1993 subaru impreza's interior lights just stopped working all of the sudden. ALL of the lights on the inside stopped this includes the console lights and the instrumant panel lights... i have checked the fuses and none of them are burnt out... what do i do??? :confuse:
  • hammerheadhammerhead Posts: 885
    Find the fuse that serves the interior lights and change it anyway. They can be bad & not show it visually. Cheapest troubleshootinig tip I can give you.

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