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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • pathtomaxpathtomax Posts: 215
    I haven't posted much lately, but I always know I can count on the crew for help!

    My 2001 Outback Wagon Ltd with 130,000 miles is making some kind of squeaking noise. Imagine, if you will, the sound brakes make when they squeak. This is happening when I am driving. I drove around a Honda dealership (just peeking...still love my Subie) and driving around the lot about 10 mph, it was making the squeaking noise. I have been hearing it at lower mph only b/c I have been driving more with the a/c on and can't hear it then. Is this of concern? It may just be intermittent now but want to know if I should bring it in sooner than later.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    Have you checked your brakes?
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Posts: 215
    My brakes have been squeaking all along ;) This is not when I am braking though.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd grease up the sway bar bushings. Rubber on metal squeeks like crazy, and those things move as you drive and turn especially.
  • I'd still check the brakes. Wear sensors on the pads oftentimes emit a squeak when they've reached a certain wear point, and they do it when the brakes are not applied.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    How often should one service the calipers? Is there a kit and what needs to be done?
  • I have the tire shop rotate my tires (it's free!) just about every time I change my oil. They're pretty good at giving the brakes a glance when they move the tires around.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Some say you should bleed the hydraulic fluid every year, but that's probably overkill.

    I spray brake cleaner and check the pad thickness each time I rotate the tires, so about every 7500 miles.

    I usually wait until 30k miles or so to bleed the brakes.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Juice, what is the process you use to get complete fluid replacement? I have read many different opinions on the subject. I certainly change my fluid less often than recommended (which seems to typically be every three years regardless of mileage), but when I do I find it tedious and messy....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I've only done it a couple of times, so I may not be the best person to answer that question.

    Any how, what I do it steal the wife's turkey baster (m-hu-hu-huaaaah!) and siphon out as much as I can from the brake master cylinder. Then refill.

    Then bleed in the proper order, topping off with fresh fluid as I go along.

    Fresh fluid is very nearly clear, the old stuff is yellow (or brown if you waited way too long).

    I may actually buy some of that blue stuff to make the process easy. Can't miss that! Stop when it changes colors! :shades:
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Haha, brown... yep! I always wait too long. Especially on my old vehicles. For them, three years really goes by quickly and they might see a thousand miles in the duration! :sick:
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    What about the caliper itself and the piston? One of the pads(outer?) on one wheel wears extremely more than the other (inner).

    I do not ever recall changing the fluid. The pads, of course. The fluid, maybe one of you guys can give me a hand {smile}.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You can rebuild a caliper if it's not sliding smoothly (you'd notice if it's hard to push back the caliper when you're installing new, thicker brake pads). A well greased caliper should last through at least 2 sets of brake pads, though.

    I had one caliper fail on my 1993 Miata, but it was 15 years old at the time, so I'm not complaining. Replaced it with a rebuilt one rather than rebuilding it myself (too messy, plus it's my safety at stake).

    You shouldn't need to service a caliper or piston before at least 60,000 miles unless there is a problem with the brakes.

    Having said that, you have uneven wear, so it may be worth it to have that caliper rebuilt when your next set of pads are installed. Some would even say do both sides on that axle.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Yeah, I'm not really sure, Phil. I have never serviced a caliper on any of my cars, but then I *only* have had about 210 to 220 thousand miles on them. I'm sure at your mileage, all sorts of new wear items crop up! I think I would do what juice did on his - replace the unit with a rebuilt unless you have the time and inclination to rebuild it yourself. If you were having someone else do the rebuild, it might be cheaper just to replace the whole unit yourself along with a new set of pads. As I'm sure you know, pad replacement takes what, about 45 minutes from start to finish for both sides and most of that time is lifting the car and removing/reinstalling the wheels! ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Don't just replace the pads, though. First find out why the wear is uneven. You're not getting the most efficient braking if that's the case.
  • What is the best way to change the thermostate in 97 Outback Legacy, the directions on the autozone.com do no match my car?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    It's pretty simple. All you need to do is drain the radiator, then put the bucket under the lower radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing. Pull the hose off and drain the fluid from it. Pull the housing/thermostat off and allow the fluid to drain from the block (this is always the messiest part for me!). Scrape the gasket material off both the block and the housing, being careful not to gouge the aluminum on the water pump.

    Now, put the new thermostat in and put it all back together! When you refill the fluid, make sure the nose of the car is at an incline (probably will be if you have it lifted up for the work) and open the bleeder screw on the top of the radiator to help air escape. Once the air seems to be out of the system, I like to give a few forceful squeezes to the upper radiator hose to try and dislodge any remaining trapped air.

    Is it the "best" way? I do not know, but it works well for me, and basically did that job four times on my '96 Outback.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I am going to replace the calipers with new pads.

    Hey, what is the best way to clean the terminals on the battery?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm no expert, far from, but my brother in-law cleaned mine with some plain old sand paper, and after reconnecting it, he sprayed on this red stuff that is purpose-made for battery terminals.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Yeah, you can buy a cheap tool, probably around three or four dollars, that is essentially a tin cylinder with a steel brush on the inside. It also has a cap that comes off with a steel brush inside it for cleaning the inside of the cable clamps. You just run those tools over the terminals and clamps, put it back together, and spray the red stuff over it to inhibit future corrosion. If you have quite a bit of corrosion already, I would recommend that you use baking soda and water to first neutralize the acid (to prevent metal corrosion on the battery plate, etc) before performing the rest of the work.

    The whole job might take you ten minutes if you stop for coffee in the middle. ;)
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