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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • kyfdx%40Edmundskyfdx%40Edmunds Posts: 25,856
    I bought a set of Nokian WRs for my CR-V.. Had about 29K on them, when I sold the car... Still had an easy 10-15K left...

    This was the earlier model, but I'd recommend them highly... Great winter traction, plus better (stiffer, less roll) handling on dry/wet roads than the normal crappy tires you can put on a CR-V...

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • fbkordfbkord Posts: 17
    Hello everyone,
    The short block on my 2002 forster was replaced. Does this mean they also changed the head gasket while fixing the block? So far I have not had any issues with the gasket but I've heard stories.

    Thank you

    fbk
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I don't see how they could have re-used the gaskets. It's industry standard to replace them, so yeah.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    Agreed; the head gaskets had to be replaced at the time the heads were separated from the old block and installed on the new one.
  • phdhuskyphdhusky Posts: 64
    Hi everyone,

    I was wondering what is required from Subaru for the 15k Maintenance as I have an extended warranty plan. I can't tell from the mysubaru site because it is formatted incorrectly.

    My dealer wants to do all this fluff service and charge 220. Do you know what subaru requires in order to keep up with the maintenance to be in good standing with my extended coverage?
  • fbkordfbkord Posts: 17
    Thank you very much for your responses. It's comforting to hear helping voices.
    Thanks again.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    The schedule for my '10 Forester lists the following:

    Interval: 15,000 miles / 15 month service
    Action Description
    Replace Engine oil
    Replace Engine oil filter
    Inspect Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions
    Perform Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system
    Inspect Clutch operation
    Inspect Steering and suspension
    Perform Rotate and Inspect Tires
  • fbkordfbkord Posts: 17
    Just do the oil change and tire rotation at a certified local shop. Ask them do the recommended inspections also, It should cost you around $100.00 the most.
    That's what Ive done with our 3 subarus and they all have over 100000 miles on them with no problem. I would recommend 30k, 60 k and 90k services done properly tho. You can also use a local shop to do these services to save money.
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    I have an 06 3.0R with the 5 speed auto. I had the transmission replaced at 30K due to a shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Now that I am at 63K the new transmission is starting to do the same thing. No extended warranty.

    I just had the fluid changed in the hopes that it would solve the issue. No such luck. Now I am looking for advice. I have some questions.

    Is this at all common? Sounds like it is not based on what I have read.

    Do I just have bad luck or could there be something else wrong with my vehicle causing the damage? Bad tranny cooler, or do I even have one?

    Any speculation on what the shudder means and how long I can drive it without some sort of hard failure?

    I am thinking about talking to Subaru about a good-will repair or assistance. My only reservation is that I had intended to pass the car to my kids in a few years and I do not want to be replacing the tranny a third time at 100K. I would rather delay replacement until it actually fails.

    Has anyone ever asked Subaru for a sweetheart deal on an extended warranty? That way they get me to have a financial stake in the matter but I could maybe delay the repair until it dies.

    If I talk to Subaru is it best to work through the service manager or deal with them directly?

    Looking for any advice on how to approach this.

    Thanks.
  • Check my complaint regarding my Tribeca 2008 with 5spd auto.
    I have had it in since new. Two torque converters, and STILL the same. Mechanics at two dealerships unable to repair, even with Subaru's guidance! Subaru advises, that is the way they are and there is no repair for the problem.
    Wonder if our transmissions are similar?
    Definitely a design fault and Subaru should stand behind it. I am still under warranty and have been in touch ad nauseam with Subaru. They have never so much as answered my emails, phone calls and registered letters!!
    Would like to know who else has such problems! Maybe collectively we can do something!
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :mad:
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Can you provide a link to your postings? This topic?
  • danielldaniell Posts: 128
    edited April 2010
    I follow these Subaru posts regularly, but i don't remember others having this problem.

    We have a 2002 Forester S, auto, just turned 80k miles. Yesterday morning while driving the car we felt a slight burning smell. No other symptoms. We kept driving the car for about 60-70 miles on the highway. When we got home, the smell was very strong and upon opening the hood a bit of smoke came out. I looked and found that the inner CV boot on the passenger side has cracked and CV grease has spilled on the exhaust (thus, the smell).

    How much damage did we do by driving the car like this at highways speeds? I am planning to take the car to the dealership ASAP, about 5 miles away, and have it fixed. Is it safe to drive it like this? What is most likely repair that they will suggest (is it likely that the CV joint need replacement?), and how much is it going to cost, approximately?

    Thanks, Daniel.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    If it is just a torn boot, and no other driveability issues (no 'clunks' on sharp turns), it may be OK to just repack with grease and put on a new rubber boot. If it got gritty in the process, it will wear quickly, and you could be looking at a replacement down the road. It really depends on how bad the split was, and what the driving conditions in this state were.

    There is a fair amount of labor involved in either total replacement or just boot replacement. Sometimes it just pays to go for a new one for the moderate extra cost over repairing what's there. Talk to the dealer about it.
  • danielldaniell Posts: 128
    Thank you fibber2.

    The dealership recommended that I replace the whole thing, and I agreed, since it is labor intensive. Cost is $350 + shop supplies + tax (close to $400 total I guess).

    Daniel
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    That price seems reasonable. If I recall correctly, the price of the part itself was about $200 on my '96 Outback, so it looks like they are estimating about 2 hours of labor. Based on my experience replacing those buggers, that is about right....
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    At 282K I had the following done: replaced driver/roadside knuckle, wheel bearing, seals, ball joint, and axel (half-shaft). Four wheel alignment performed. Complete repair totaled $694.90.

    I attempted to do it myself but could not get the ball joint loose. Saw the dealer performed it. A lot of the labor was to fix my mistake. I already had the half-shaft.

    I had the rear bearing and lug studs done and it ran under $500. So the price you quoted was a good deal.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    edited April 2010
    Ugh. Ball joints can be a real PITA! I gave myself a significant scar on my lower left arm replacing the ball joints on my Escort last spring. Separating them, though, has become much easier since I purchased a separator fork ($12).

    I also built a funky little tool for my '69 Chevy C20's steering knuckle (that vehicle has two ball joints on each side!) that will, with enough application of force, separate the ball joints. Once they came loose from the knuckle, I only had to use a ball joint removal/installation tool to press the unit out of the A-arm and install the new one. Compared to the $1200 estimate I received from a shop two years prior, I thought the effort involved and the ~$250 spent on tools and parts was well worth it.

    But, I digress. :blush:
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    My problem was getting the axle housing pinch bolt(?) off which would allow me to lift the housing off the ball joint. Most dealers tell me they disconnect the housing from the strut to remove the half shaft.

    Once I broke the bolt, I was left with the dealer doing the repair. I have to get another housing. Because they could not get the bolt out. I have to do the other side (319K original miles) it is due. And while I am at it I will replace the bearings too. Just wish I had a second car I could use while I work on it.
  • Just got a Brand New car last week. This Saturday while I was driving, Check
    Engine light comes on, and several other lights came on or started blinking. Called sales at dealer since the service was closed. I was told most likely it would be caused by loose gas cap. I then added more gas and tightened the cap. After several trips, short and long, the light are still on or blinking!!

    I got really frustrated now! What should I do except for having the car
    checked at the dealer tomorrow? To file a complaint? Anything else I can do?
    :mad: :mad:
    Thanks!
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    After the problem is fixed, it takes several cycles of engine start to reset the Check Engine Light (CEL). Other than hooking a computer or scanner up to it and resetting it. Advanced Auto will let you use their scanner (in exchange of you license) to read and reset the code and CEL.
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