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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The plan is to do a flush + thermostat on it, while on vacation next week. If I'm gonna take the radiator out, I'll just replace the whole thing. I don't think it's that bad yet though.

    -mike
  • I think this site has been posted here before but if not here goes. Lot's of interesting stuff and even a few sections on Soobs:

    http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/


    bit

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's really pretty cool. Too bad most of it is for older models (mostly Loyale). I like this quote: "This kind of durability breeds rabid loyalty among owners."

    Interesting tid bit about the XT6's power steering mechanism, BTW.

    -juice
  • There are some interesting topics outside the (older) Subaru stuff too. Topics that get frequent mention here are: clutches, ATF flushing, and filters.

    bit
  • ramonramon Posts: 825
    the squeel has disappeared over the last coupla days! Wat's up with this?! I'm going to the dealer today. So how?
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Okay, here's how it works. Dealers get paid for service visits (including warranty items). They install a secret remote controlled device that causes a variety of symptoms in our vehicles during the delivery phase. When things get slow in the shop, they activate the device and force a frustrated customer to book an appointment. Once they know you're coming in, they shut the device off and get to write the infamous line "Could not replicate at this time". ;-)

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's cool. Just ask the dealer to register a "customer says" complaint so that there is a log of the history of braking symptoms, in case something creeps up later on.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    My beloved daughter decided to try gymnastics on the hood of my Winestone OB (3 mos.old!). Scratches, scratches, scratches. Medium depth, but definitely noticeable - especially for me (OCD). I tried rubbing compound on one area and it seemed to dull the finish. I plan on having a body shop look at it. Any suggestions!! Suggestions on punishment are also welcome.

    Greg

    P.S. No dents in the hood. Pretty suprised considering she is 7 years old.
  • Rubbing compound will dull the clear coat. The best result (OCD speaking) would be to repaint the hood. Is Winestone a metalic color? If not touch up might work or you might luck out and get it buffed out. I scratched the hood on my brand new 1986 Mustang GT while removing the stupid matte black hood decal. Freaked me out as the scratches looked bad. Took it to a detail shop and they spent a few hours buffing it out. Turned out great!.

    You could also call your dealer and ask who the use for scratch repair. There are lots of people like Dent Pro who also do scratches on site (your driveway) and CAN do a good job. But like everything a referral is important. Some use an airbrush but even then it is tough to get the clear coat to blend. Paisan says he has seen it done. Good luck.


    bit - 2001 GT Wagon

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For punishment: do not open the rear moonroof for a month. ;-)

    -juice
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Greg,

    When using rubbing compound, you need to follow up with a much more fine cut product like a glaze. Rubbing compounds are designed to cut through layers, not polish them. Try getting a bottle of glaze 3M Perfect It or Imperial Hand Glaze from a local auto store and see if it brings out the gloss. It's a small investment compared to paying for a hood repaint.

    Ken
  • brekkebrekke Posts: 304
    I am not sure if this will help you, but I had scratched the entire side of my 1-month-old car driving too close to overgrown branches.

    After inspecting the visible damage and resisting the urge to curl into a fetal position on my lawn, I used a few drops of Finish Prep non-abrasive cleaner (from finishfirstpolish.com) and the scratches disappeared! Like magic, I tell you! (I have not tried any other products)

    These were light scraches tho, but noticeable.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    My wife had a deep scratch on the roof of her old car, and Meguiar's paste wax would make it disappear. The catch was it would gradually return, so I knew when it needed a fresh coat of wax!

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    on your thoughts. As I look at it now, it is hard to tell unless you look close. I will bring it by a body shop to see what it would take to buff it out. Not bad enough to repaint. Juice - wish I had the moonroof not to open. ;)

    Greg
  • wc44wc44 Posts: 2
    Here's a challenge for you knowledgeable Subaru gurus. I've had an '81, '83, '85 and '88 GL 4X4 wagons, all standard trans, and loved every one of them. I especially liked the manual 2 speed transfer case, which gave me 10 forward gears in four wheel drive. I traded in the '88 with some misgivings because everything is now electrical, the windows, the AWD, etc. but I was impressed with the reliability of the entire machines. So I took the plunge last week and got a 2001 Outback. Took great care in breaking it in well, changed the oil after 1000 km, got really impressed with how well the AWD handled on the twisty roads, etc. So Tuesday evening as I'm readying for a trip in my work truck (a Tacoma), I parked the Outback at the back of my property to keep it out of the sun and dust (I'm having some construction done) and, not being used to power windows, shut the motor off before raising the windows. When I turned the ignition back on, there was no set of warning lights and no power windows. I tried to start the car, the motor turns over but does not fire. I tried to start it a few more times then it got dark so I went in and hoped that it was some weird quirk that would be gone in the morning. Read the manual about fuses and in the morning, checked the 15A ignition fuse - it was good. I then phoned my dealer (they are 500 km away) but the technician didn't have any good ideas other than check all the fuses. I checked a few, they were good and everything except the lights and the fan motor still work. On a real whim, I decided to swap the 15A fuse with the spare provided and tried it again and it worked. I put the windows up right away and then noticed the Check Engine light flashing, so I shut the motor off. When I tried to start it again, the same thing had happened - no ignition, no dashboard lights, no power windows, no lights. I had to go to work and got back today with some new fuses, tried to start the car, wouldn't go, swapped the fuse out, still wouldn't start. So here I am with a brand new car that won't start! I've wiggled a few wires under the dash but have not done anything serious yet. However, it's not going to be easy to get the car out of there or to have it towed back to the dealer. It would be better if I could at least get it started. Any of you respected participants have any ideas? This is definitely a weird one. Thanks in advance.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Have the dealer come and flatbed the car back to the dealer. You don't want to be driving the car 500KMs if there is something wrong with it. I'd guess a bad wiring harness somewhere.

    -mike
  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    I agree with Mike. It sounds like something more serious than fuses. Since you have towing under warranty, it will be the tow company that has to figure out how to get it out from where you parked it. You have enough agg. because of the problem - turn it over to the dealer -

    Patti
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    The symptom you'd described sounded similar to what happened with my '98 OB after the alternator was swapped (ala recall). I had Key in Ignition Alert, Parking Lights, and Hazard Lights available only. Everything else just dead. A quick check with a test light traced the problem to the "Fusible Link". This is the Black Wire located in the engine compartment fuse box. In my case, that wire snapped (unrelated to alternator replacement - may had a fault all along).
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    A lot of times fuses burn out but you can't tell. A hairline crack is not always visible.

    Nonetheless, I agree it's a more serious problem that the dealer should look at. Maybe a short circuit somewhere.

    -juice
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    I had the fusible link go in my 1994 Legacy after going through a carwash. My understanding is there are actually two fusible links, one in the underhood fuse box, and one even lower in the engine compartment (which was the one that blew in my car), according to the dealer. Maybe he was trying to use that as an excuse for the $300.00 bill. Same symtoms you are describing, it would turn over, but never go. I think I had dash lights though, which actually might lend some credence to the "two" or more fusible links scenario. Paisan, will email you later today.

    Jim
  • cnecoxcnecox Posts: 4
    I had to have an oil pump seal replaced on my 97 Legacy. This seems like an unusual problem, and it was rather expensive. I was wondering if this is a problem other people have had. If the seals are defective, then seem like there should be a recall.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    First I've heard of any oil pump problems. Sounds rare to me.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    XT6s and XTs are known for bad oil pump seal problems. I just add an extra 1/2Q of oil to mine.

    -mike
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    apparently there is a problem with the gasket material, I've had two replaced on one of my 92s, my mechanic says its something he sees a fair amount of with Legacys of that age but Subaru changed the material in later models.
  • mikezakmikezak Posts: 95
    Hi gang. I've been away for awhile (computer was down, and just got a new one). Since there is not a way to do a really 'search' method on these Edmonds sites, I thought I would just ask.

    Has the morning brake squeal issue been resolved?

    Patti (SOA) earlier stated that she thought a fix would be published to the dealers sometime in Aug. I would like some confirmation before I call the dealer.

    Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    tap your brakes a few times when leaving your driveway, should clear it right up :)

    -mike
  • After spending several days on the roads in the Midwest last week in rain storms I developed a leak inside my 01 Limited Outback. A drip through occurred from the drivers light above the center console (the one with two map lights and switches) I have had the 01' since late July 00' and not noticed the leak before. The only way I see that water could have come in is through a faulty seal of the front moon roof gasket since the roof was closed. There are three courses of action: 1) do nothing, 2) let the dealer fix it and possibly mess something else up or 3) repair it myself. I really do not like options 1) or 3). Anyone else had this problem? Is there a simple self repair with some sealant? I wonder about this and the brown rust spots referred to earlier on the Edmunds site. If I do not fix it perhaps I will get "Rusty" too (Is this only an OCD problem or a real concern?).
  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    #2 is the only viable option as far as I can see. A leak if that sort could well cause rust and/or electrical problems in the future. Don't try any repairs on your own. If the dealer messes up you are still fully covered until it is done properly. They may even give you a new car. :~)

    Ross
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    First, then #3. Chances are your dealership will mess it up. I'd live with it and see if there are any future leaks. 1x only leaks are not a problem it's recurring ones that are.

    -mike
  • I would bet it is not the moonroof. It could be the attachment point of the roof rails. Biggest bummer is to have the dealer fix it they will need to pull the headliner and that is a 6 hour job and involves removal of lots of trim.

    bit
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