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Periodic Maintenance

jahmfgjahmfg Posts: 1
edited March 6 in Honda
I know absolutely nothing about cars. Our dealer says that we should bring our car in for a tune-up (more than just an oil change) every 7500 miles, and a major tune-up after 30000 miles. The 30000 mile check-up includes changing all the fluids, checking everything, rotating the tires, etc. It costs around $350. Are they ripping us off? Do we really need all this maintenance? I want to keep my car in great shape, but I don't want to waste money on unnecessary check ups. I get the oil changed every 4000 miles, and so far, have taken the car in for its 7500 mile tune-ups. My 30k is coming up soon.
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Comments

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Radio/Tape Player

    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

    Accord

    Disconnect the negative battery cable. If so equipped, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS).
    Remove the floor console and the front console panel.
    Remove the ashtray and ashtray holder.
    Remove the two screws holding the radio at the rear of the unit.
    Carefully push the unit out the front of the dash. When access is gained, disconnect the multi-pin connector and the antenna cable from the unit. Remove the unit.
     
    Reinstall in the reverse order. Take great care not to damage the dash trim and instrument visor. Make certain the connectors are firmly and squarely installed. If applicable, be sure to enable the SRS.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    What's in a 7500 mile tune-up?
  • blerner1blerner1 Posts: 12
    All,

    I just brought my 2000 Honda Accord EXV6 in for its 30k maintenance and I was told it was going to be $300.

    The dealer also just called me and told me that my rear brake pads have less than 2mm left on them. To replace the pads, redo the rotors will be an additional $150.

    The car has 32k miles on it. Am I getting ripped off here.
  • malachy72malachy72 Posts: 325
    a brake job at 30k. However dealers are the most expensive place to get non warranty work done. Find a good (honest) local guy/shop and I don't mean a national chain.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Not sure you have platinum plugs (it's highly probable).....if they are changing the spark plugs (check your owner's manual) it may not be needed (that's about $100 in parts and labor right there).

    New air filter is going in.

    You should change the transmission fluid (about $100)....

    Rear pads....turning down the rotors should only cost about 10 to 20 dollars. It should cost less than $100 to do the rear brakes.
  • bburton1bburton1 Posts: 395
    Regarding disc brake rotors-some places like to "true" them up by grinding every time they change pads. A useless waste of money which will really cost you when they finally get them so thin the rotors have to be replaced. Grinding/turning a rotor that is not warped is gross-went with a friend to have maintenace done on his BMW-had a very in the face screaming match with the maintenance super-went home and on the way got rear pads and did it myself in less than 30 minutes for 1/10 of what the crooks wanted.

    Yeah find somebody other than a dealer to do non warranty work or do it yourself. Changing ATF is really easy on most cars. Just use the right one. I can change brake pads on my accord in less than 30 minutes.

    Be careful out there-not all dealers are crooks but some are.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    All over the "Maintenance & Repair" sector, I repeatedly note that I am one of the slowest, although most experienced, of posters. Change the brake pads on the rear of a car in 30 minutes? It takes that long to do the preliminary preparations that lead to starting the work-- for me. You fast handed tool twisters are, well, apparently danged fast. (:oÞ
  • venanzikvenanzik Posts: 72
    Is there a transmission filter within the transmission on this car? It is an automatic. Also, I am planning on getting the coolent changed since i am not sure if it has ever been done (wifes car)and was wondering if a flush and fill would be needed or just a drain and fill? the coolent looks normal in color. May as well ask one more. I noticed it burning more oil, what fixes will prevent this (the car does not leak oil)?
    Car has 135K.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Whatever floats your boat.

    I personally prefer turning or replacing my rotors, just to get a nice flat surface on the rotors for the pads to bed properly.

    It costs me more money in the long run....but that's what floats my boat.

    The oil...try Max Life. The STP is just a viscosity enhancer, which makes the oil really thick, not quite ideal for cold starting conditions. I'd check the exhaust to see if there's any blue smoke coming out.

    Coolant....I always do a water flush and fill.

    ATF: drop the pan and go the whole nine yards.
  • malachy72malachy72 Posts: 325
    the oil is not black, is it and your not seeing smoke from under the hood after shutting it off or while idling? You're probably getting some blow by at this mileage. 1 qt. every 1k to 2k miles really not too bad. You might try a high mileage oil like Max Life or just some STP if it annoys you, but again really not a problem.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Whta th dealer says is required maintenacne is different then what the manula says. The dealer has to make a boat payment that is probably due.

    Never bring a car in for a 30,000 etc maintenance look in the manual and only ask for what requires replacement. the inspection items are a rip off and by not having them inspected does not void your warranty. Do only the required replacement items.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    Not quite the facts on the STP Oil Treatment. Yes, it is a high viscosity product, but you may not be aware that a major ingredient is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. This chemical is known to be a significant antiwear additive. It is the very ingredient that has been decreased in SJ and SL engine lubricants, ostensibly to increase mileage and/or better protect catalytic converters at the potential peril of premature engine wear.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    STP sells two types of oil treatments

    The standard oil treatment (blue bottle) is basically a viscosity index improver

    The 4 cylinder oil treatment (red bottle) is that and contains the anti-wear additives (as you mentioned)
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    I think that if you read the labels carefully you'll see that the blue bottle product has ZDDP additive in it, too.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Maybe I gotta hit the Wal-Mart when I go home today
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    yep zddp is in there.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    I truly wonder what the measured effect of the added ZDDP actually is. You can buy a Walmart house brand of very similar shelf appearance for about half the STP price.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
    Whether it's trustworthy source....I don't know
  • apurushapurush Posts: 10
    How much did you guys pay for 60K scheduled maintenance? I am getting a quote for $300 in the Atlanta area.

    Thanks.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I absolutely change power steering, brake and transmission fluids at that level. Will it also include a tuneup? They often want to do an oil change, but I always do that on my schedule. Change timing belt if called for also. Durn, I can just hear the cash machine going ca ching.

    Seriously, dealers are more conservative and want to maintain your vehicle well for you. The Manufacturers are interested in cutting costs since costs of maintenence are now routinely published and compared.

    It's a tough balance.
  • malachy72malachy72 Posts: 325
    a 99 cents store out there. You can get STP for a buck, I've seen STP car wax for a buck. I know it's not zaino, but I'm no fanatic, just looking for a little protection.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    I'll be looking around. I may be the only person in the Edmunds forum that doesn't know ANYTHING about Zaino. Now Drano is another story...
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    a highly tested and thoroughly recommended product that cures cancer, heals the sick and lame, causes blistering paint to fasten back on tightly again, gets country singers back with the babe (the car starts again, the bottle is full, the dog doesn't bite, etc.) causes warts to fall off and the bushes out back to leaf out in $100 bills... and is BOTH a floor wax AND a dessert topping!

    call 1-900-gimme-mo today!
  • heather99heather99 Posts: 2
    i have a '99 accord lx 4dr and would like to clean the throttle body myself this time. i've had two occasions wherein my gas pedal sticks the first time i'm about to drive my car. i had to loosen it first by stepping on it to clear whatever is causing that. otherwise, my car will do a jack-rabbit once i get it moving. had my 2 dealers check it and they were both consistent in pointing to the throttle body as the culprit. they say that it needs to be cleaned because of dirt accumulation both airborne and from the fuel line. if this is going to be happening again in the future then i might as well do it myself and save the $80 they are charging me.

    any pointers on how to properly do it? thanks a lot.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Remove the air intake ducting to expose the throttle body, hold the throttle wide open to expose the back of the throttle plate and the area behind it, and liberally spray with an aerosol air intake/throttle body cleaner (NOT carburator cleaner). Scrub it all with an old toothbrush until the bore and throttle plate are clean. Done deal.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    Why the caveat against carburetor cleaner? And is the "throttle body/air intake" cleaner readily available? Shed some light here, your professorship! Many thanks. >;^]
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Carb cleaners contain a dry lubricant which keeps the butterfly nice and lubed. Never had a problem with carb cleaner cleaning my throttle body. It's less expensive too.

    CRC makes a specific Throttle body cleaner.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Carburator cleaner is pretty strong stuff, it's formulated to dissolve the varnish build-up from evaporating gasoline. Does a pretty good job of damaging the factory coating on some FI throttle body bores and might not be O2 sensor compatible. Air intake (throttle body) cleaner is designed to remove the softer, sticky carbon build-up in FI intake systems and is 02 sensor safe. Since carbs are going the way of the dodo bird where I'm from, there are a lot more aerosol air intake cleaner choices in the auto parts stores than carb cleaners. It beats me why some DIY'ers intentionally choose the wrong product for a job when the right one is sitting next to it on the shelf.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    All my 4 wheelers have fuel injection, and I have taken to using my oldest containers of carb cleaner for spot cleaning concrete in my garage. I haven't bought a new container of the stuff in several years now. For whatever reason, I have never noted the presence of air intake/throttle body cleaner in auto parts stores. I'll sure keep an eye peeled for same.
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    Alcan is right on the money. Most carb. cleaners contain harsh aromatic solvents that will cause damage to the components in the throttle body assembly including the sensors.
    If the ingredients on the cans of STP or Wallmarts alternate does not list the percentage of zddp write to the manufacturer and ask for a MSDS sheet this sheet usually lists all the ingredients over .25% unless its a trade secret.
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