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Chevrolet Colorado
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My first experience with a crew cab was a 2000 Nissan Frontier, loved it. It was functional, affordable and the looks of a "mini hummer" until they changed the body styling in 2001, it's short falls were lack of interior space and weak powerplant. Back to the Colorado, curb appearance, really liked the big tires, clean interior design and proportions I liked. However, the lack of interior space is still a bit tight and the seats could be a little more plush. Headroom was good, legroom in front was good, but the back seating area is fine for kids. Shoulder and hip space is my real beef. Why didn't GM build the Colorado off the Trailblazer frame? The S-10 Blazer and Pickup were a long lasting pair? The Trailblazer short or ext frame would have given the Colorado plenty of width to compensate for lack of legroom as well as giving the Colorado a neat looking wide stance to go with the short box bed. After all Trailblazer, Colorado, Canyon go hand-in-hand. Just wondering.
I did like the I-5 Vortec (zippy) and the neat motor compartment, very quiet, the exhaust is what you can hear, kinda flute like, higher pitched unlike my Suburban V-8 growl.
My last thought is, not enough for the money. Low to mid $20K for the CC 4x4 would be a better price range, not $30K. I'll wait and buy a used Colorado CC 4X4 for less. The H3 Hummer is going to be built from a modified Trailblazer ladder frame, why couldn't the Colorado?
I remember reading somewhere about why GM did not use the Trailblazer platform but I forgot why. It's really an Isuzu truck so GM didn't have to do all the design work themselves, I think that's what they call strategic leveraging? Ha.
Making the Colorado/Canyon wider like the Trailblazer would have placed it almost as big as a full size Silverado. Sort of like what Dodge has done with the Dakota. Basically making it the 9/10ths pickup like the old Toyota Tundra.
I enjoy my Canyon - larger, much more comfortable than my old S-10, but not as over large as my old full size extended cab. Does everything I need, hauls the family in comfort and has given me almost 15k trouble free miles while returning an average of about 20mpg in my commute.
Mike
that my commute is mostly highways, I will hopefully take advantage of the gas saving features of variable valve timing. Oh yeah, the Tacoma '05 will start to get that this coming release. One reason to make it my second choice. I scuba dive and surf, so the only time I will be using the 4WD capability is to access remote off the road surf spots and dive spots.
I've been reading this forum since its beginning in 2002. I just hope that the problems thats been described here have been fixed in the 2005 Models.
I have put in my order for a Colorado '05 CrewCab Z71 4x4 LS 1SE package with 4.1 Axle ratio(compensate for the lower torque), Sunroof, with wheel flares, bodyside moulding, tailgate edge protector, and rear sliding window. Out the door for $27,300(tax, title, license included) plus any discount applicable. I think GM is offering $2k cash back at this time. Hopefully more when the truck arrives. Price is set as long as material cost does not change. So I am praying that it remains the same.
Just incase we have cynical critics here, I will explain why you might wonder why I choosed the higher axle ratio when my point is to save gas. First, because of the low torque, with a higher axle ratio, I'll gain more torque than the 3.75 axle ratio. Publications are based on the smaller ratio. Second, since Hawaii mostly has a max speed limit of 55MPH (only one place has the 60 MPH limit), I don't think I have to worry much about engines working more at higher speeds. Third, to further compensate for the gas mileage lost and boost horsepower, for choosing the higher axle ratio, I plan to add a tonneau cover to reduce drag, change the exchaust to a more freeflowing type to increase horsepower, and change the air intake to a higher capacity for better fuel/air mixing, therefore improving gas mileage. I've done the same and a little more (tinkering with pcm) with the Silverado which has a mileage of 18mpg city/20mpg highway and an increase of 30 horsepower(dyno tested), better than the stock.
I have test drived the Canyon, Colorado, and Tacoma '05. The Canyon is over priced with the salesmanager unwilling to reduce the $8k markup over my quoted price of $27,300 for the same vehicle with less options. That basically turned me off on GMCs. As for the Tacoma, unlike the mainland, Toyota cannot be customed ordered because of the monopoly Servco has on the islands. So, you buy what they order. Forcing me to go with the Colorado unless...
However, after reading all the postings and taking notes, I will make sure to look for the following during the delivery test drive:
1) Interior wetting/leak due to unfinished sealing of wiper cowels and body seems.
2) Leaking shocks.
3) Fuel gauge misreporting due to malfunctioning fuel sensor.
4) Make sure to check all seat belt bolts are secured.
5) Vibration at 45 to 55MPH, possibly due to tires, engine, driveline, and/or heat shields(frequency resonation).
6) High pitch whining from the exhaust(fixable using WPC281 due to sticking exhaust valves).
7) Bee-hive like sound coming from the AC.
8) Wind noise from seals
9) Ac does not get cold fast or stays in moderate cool temperature on high setting.
10) And the usual, unmatching body panels, paint chips, runs, bubbles, loose or loose fitting parts, etc...
And if and when I do take the truck home, I'll look for irregular tire wear problems which might be caused by incorrect trim settings.
Now if I do find these problem(s) and the dealership is not cooperating to fix it before delivery, then I will request my
deposit due to a breach of contract and instead buy my second choice, Toyota Tacoma'05, of course without the options that I want. Gotta live with it if I want a truck that at least work. I'll make sure to post back here when that time comes up and let everyone know. Oh, and if I forgot something in the list, please add to it, so it can help others like me with the decision of buying a Colorado/Canyon.
I've got 15k miles and have had no real issues. My only two gripes are the outside thermometer that doesn't adjust for 15-20 minutes on hot days and the sometimes anemic A/C. Other than that its been 15K trouble free miles in the Pacific NW.
As for the tonneau - it will probably not help mileage. Trucks are designed so that there is an area of low pressure that forms behind the cab/over the box. My mileage didn't change when I added my hard cover(not a canopy).
Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
GM says they are not suitable, but they won't replace them with a more suitable tire. (Service buliten) The vibration in these tires just won't go away. GM could have spent maybe $100.00 MORE FOR TIRES AND HAVE ELIMINATED THESE PROBLEMS. You get better tires on a Kia.
I was under the impression that if there are tire issues within the first 1,000 miles, GM will give an allowance for new tires (based on the cost of the OEM ones), leaving the dealer and owner to decide which replacements to go with.
The dash of the Canyon has been pushed forward compared to the Sonoma, giving the illusion of more room in the cab. I am disappointed that GM used the same seat frames as the Sonoma, which include an insipid latch system for flipping the seats forward. You have to push the lever backward while pulling the seatback forward. The 1994-97 Sonomas had a lever to unlatch the seatback that moved forward (in the direction of the seatback) instead of going against your motion. There are no auto up power windows, and auto down is only for the driver's. The wire going down from the headliner to the rearview mirror looks incredibly cheap. How hard would it have been to attach it to the windshield instead of just leaving it hanging there?
Overall, it's good for hauling things, and my exemplar has been dependable, but nothing to write home about. Perhaps that's why there are so few praise posts!
thanks
But here's my question for the group: GM announced a red tag sale today, with new incentives. What about customers that just bought?
From The Owner's Manual Page 3-39 & 3-40
Automatic Door Locks
With the vehicles engine off, and the ignition in the Lock position, press and hold the power door lock button for approximately three seconds until the DIC displays the current door lock mode. Then press and hold the reset stem for approximately two seconds to switch modes. The following are the mode choices:
Lock 1 (default)
Lock all doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 MPH (24 hm/h) with a manual transmission. Doors will unlock when the vehicle is shifted into PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the ignition key is removed on a manual transmission.
Lock 2
Turns off the automatic door locks
Lock 3
Lock all doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the speed is greater than 15 MPH(24km/hr) with a manual transmission. Drivers door will unlock when the vehicle is shifted into PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the ignition key is removed on a manual transmision.
Lock 4
Lock all doors when the vehicle is shifted out of PARK(P) with an automatic transmission, or when the vehicle speed is greater than 15 MPH (24 km/hr) with a manual transmission. No doors will unlock
Once your selection is made, press the trip odometer reset stem QUICKLY ! The DIC should go blank at this point.
This is the part they don't tell you and that we found out by ourselves. We are 95% sure, this is the only way we could have the computer save the setting. 2 members have made it work this way.
I can't remember the last time I drove something with this much front legroom.
The transmission is made in Japan. The General Tires are terrible. No traction in rain or snow. You don't need traction control, just better tires. I put Goodyears's on it and don't have any traction problems. The engine is smooth, it runs at about 2000rpms at 65mph. It does have a vibration at 45-55, and know body knows why. The tires have been replaced twice. The ride is very good for a truck.
stephen
I can stack snow six feet high and these tires will go deep into the pile and still pull out of it (in double-low) just as good as any tire I've ever plowed with.
The truck and tires are nice and smooth and quite in highway driving. Just a little noise and vibration under load going up hills, no more than you'd expect from a 4 cylinder engine.
stephen
"These tires were original on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport and now have 77,380 miles. Really have been pleased with them overall. We commute 150 miles a day in this vehicle, all interstate 70+ mph driving in every weather condition there is...."
And:
"I thought these were the greatest tires I ever owned until I started reading other reviews. 85,000 miles on these tires and they still have plenty of tread left. They get me through deep snow, wet pavement, etc with NO problem."
Michelin, BF Goodrich, Uniroyal, Firestone and Goodyear all got a higher rating overall than the Generals.
stephen
Its a real shame you believe everything you read. I own a Colorado Z71 LS Extended Cab. It went to the dealer once for a loose electrical clip. I was in and out of the service department in 10 minutes. My Colorado has been flawless otherwise. Maybe you should read the multitude of owner's reviews on Edmunds and you'll find that a vast majority of us love our Colorados.
I'm no apologist for GM or Detroit for that matter either. I test drove both a Toyota and Nissan small trucks and found them both overpriced and gas guzzlers to boot. Try talking to one of us who actually own one. I put no creedence in what the Edmunds reviewer says either. I drive a Colorado every day and wouldn't trade it for any of its competitors.
GM "generally" (pun intended) puts crap tires on its non-performance cars. Why they do this to save $20 a car when it makes the vehicles behave so badly is beyond understanding of consumers.
My dad had a Citation (talk about stellar designs) that came with cheap Generals and they were horrible in the rain, the car would like to 360 - of course some of this was crappy brake system....
Dirk
========================================================
Most carmakers put crap tires on most of their cars. It comes down to the lowest bidder (except factory Michelins, which I suspect are sold cheaply to the factory, just not to consumers who want an OEM replacement tire)... I was astonished to see the Pirelli PZero Nero M&S is OEM on the new Mustang GT. It's currently the top of its class in the Tire Rack survey.
Any ideas on how I could convince him?
The positives I see with my Canyon:
- Much better mileage than full size
- If you need the truck part; the avalanche isn't as convenient. (The rails interfere with using the box fully. i.e. filling with front end loader, loading and hauling bulky items/trash...)
- Its as comfortable as full size unless you gotta haul 5/6 adults.
I've owned the S10, Tacoma and Frontier. When the Colorado arrived I planned to purchase one. After I drove it several times I came to the conclusion that it was not even ready to compete with my 2003 Tacoma, and it is far behind the 05 Dakota, 05 Frontier and 05 Tacoma. The biggest problem with the Colorado is the cheap interior quality or materials and crude design. Fix the interior and I'll forgive GM for the I5, the lack of a composite bed, the lack of a factory spray in bedliner, the lack of a sunroof option, the lack or bed cleats, and etc..
And it is not just my opinion.
Nearly every review of the Colorado/Canyon that compares it with Tacoma, Dakota and Frontier ranks the Chevy/GMC last.
My GM Card earnings continue to burn a hole in my pocket.
Silverado is a credible (more than) competitor in the fullsize truck market, still waiting for GM to get serious about the small/midsize trucks.
stephen