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Nissan 300ZX, all models



  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Back in November 1990 Nissan issued a 300ZX Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) NTB90102, also referenced BF90018 regarding a rattle noise in the door area from the door striker. Can anyone tell me details about this fix? I don't own a 300ZX*, but have a Nissan with the same problem. Thanks for any help you can offer.

    * I do have two friends with 300ZX's tho! :)
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,692

    Classification: Section:
    BF90-018 BODY & FRAME

    1990 300ZX Date:
    NOVEMBER 29, 1990

    APPLIED MODEL: 1990 300ZX

    APPLIED VIN AND DATE: 2-Seater, JN1RZ24A-LX018726 04/11/90
    2+2 Seater, JN1RZ26A-LX012050 04/10/90
    Turbo, JN1CZ24A-LX005258 04/12/90

    On some 300ZX vehicles, customers may complain of a rattle noise from the door striker when driving over rough roads. This rattle noise is generated at the door striker and door panel when driving over rough road surfaces and is caused by the door's movement relative to the body of the vehicle.

    Upper Door Hook Rattle

    Inspect the upper door hook striker to confirm that it is not making any noise. No contact between the door hook and the upper door hook striker should occur in the normal operation of this assembly. If there are any marks on either unit, adjust to prevent the contact. Adjustment may be required at either the door hook or the upper door hook striker dependent upon the nature of the contact. The units are illustrated below:
    NOTE: One way to determine if contact is occurring, is to hold the door handle up as the door is slowly closed to listen for any upper door striker noise which would indicate that contact is being made.

    Lower Striker Rattle

    If the incident rattle noise has been confirmed to occur at the door striker latch mechanism (illustrated below), a countermeasure shim can be installed between the door striker and the door panel. This shim is made of aluminum and reduces the gap between the door striker and the body hook.



    Shim-Door hinge 80575-50Y00 --------
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    That's GREAT! Thanks a bunch for the TSB narrative -- it's given me a good course of action and some ideas. Wonderful. Again, thanks very much.
  • ttoupalttoupal Posts: 1
    the alternator must be replaced now! it contains the voltage regulator and it is integrated and must be failing.

    if you have to drive the car, turn on everything you can to dissipate the voltage spikes. try to get an alternator with a three year warranty; anything less than that will fail and you will find yourself repeating this cycle.

    I had a 1995 300zx, and replaced the alternator three times between 1998 and 1992. back then i had bad luck finding oem replacement parts and refuesed to let the dealer charge twice the price. anyway, that car has many nice electronic accessories and tends to burden the voltage regulator to the point of failure.

    try nappa.
  • kdawg67kdawg67 Posts: 1
    I have a 86 turbo 300 everythings fine except my air conditioner won't blow out of the vents i've tried everything, vacuum hoses can some help me please
  • Is your compressor clutch clicking on and off when you hit the AC switch? You can hear this even without the engine running as long as the key is to the ON position.
  • smoricismorici Posts: 1
    I agree with Mr. Shiftright. I appraise 50-60 cars a week and experience about a 10-15% accuracy rate. Beyond the underbody inspection a paint meter is a must professionally or as a hobbyist. It has helped me save 10's of 1000's of dollars in losses on vehicles that I have taken in trade with undisclosed damage. I personally recommend the FenderSplendor FS 488. I have had 2 for over a year and they are inexpensive very accurate and easy to use.
  • What's the noticeable difference's between the 2+2 and the GS model's
  • Need more info: Was any work done when it stopped? Will the blower work but no air out of AC? (will it blow heat?). Which AC controls does your car have?
  • I bought a 86 300zx non-turbo 5sp in GA, dealer said he sold it to a good customer who drove it to FL and it quit,towed back to dealer and I bought it. It starts for about 1sec. and quits. Valdosta nissan said that it had a 84 ecm harness and it wouldn't work but it's obvious that the car ran with this harness. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I've swapped out dist, crank sens, cyl temp sens. fuel pump, fuel pres sens, w/used units, all with the same result, starts and quits. and ecm's too. i've wrenched on motors for years, what am I missing? It's driving me nuts! It's a beautiful car and i've had these z's for years. Oh please help me z gurus.
  • Well if indeed it has a cobbled up '84 harness in there, your problem could be anywhere in the harness. It sounds to me like some vital signal from a sensor to the ECM is getting lost or misinterpreted, doesn't it?

    You may need a factory manual and a good diagnostic computer to figure this one out. Once modifications have been made, all bets are off. You may need to initiate the tedious process of checking voltages and signals at each ECM port.
  • lokkilokki Posts: 1,200
    I had this exact problem on an Acura Integra. It would crank and start and die.

    Sometimes it would run but 98 percent of the time it just started and stopped.

    It turned out that the ignition switch in the steering column had cracked. When you turned the key to start, it would make contact and turn the starter. The engine would start, and I'd let go of the key. However, because of the crack in the switch, the key didn't fall all the way back to the 'run' position, contact would be broken, and the engine would stop.

    My dealer replaced about half of the fuel injection and ignition system before we figured it out.

    Probably isn't your problem, but hey! It's worth a look along those lines.

    Good luck.
  • I tend to agree that if it ran B4, why not now? If the car just quit, as you were told and B4 you spend more money - get out your volt ohm meter and check out the fuse panel (driver's side kick panel) or (easier) - pull the panel loose and check the wire solder connertions on the rear. These joints have been known to break and the engine will start (sometimes) and then the viberation breaks the connection and the engine stops. Cross your fringers - give it a shot - good luck...
  • I can't wait to get back to GR Michigan (I'm driving back from LA now) to try your suggestions, where can I get the manual the haynes ones don't have crap in them. I'll keep you posted. thanks 300pilot
  • Got mine direct from Nissan (USA). Got the phone number from the local dealer's parts department, called (they do plastic) and presto - two weeks and a brand new 300ZX shop manual. Beware the manual is very good but have errors in it. You're right, the Haynes are only good for the outhouse (down here) or to start you're winter fire up where you are.
  • I havea 1985 300zx. I SUSPECT MY CRANKSHAFT POS. SENSOR IS BAD. i cannot find it on car. I need a picture if you have one. Thanks.
  • Didn't we answer this already? It's in your distributor.
  • i have a 300ZX , 1988 and i do love it , it runs good , it not in as good shape as yours, i bought it used. now it's time for me to sell it , i hate to but its just time . but i need to get a passenger side T-Top for it . lightening must have hit it ,cause i went out one day and the glass was completely crystalize.

    if any one could give me advice on how to sell it or where to find a black smoked glass T-Top , that would be great.

    what about selling it for parts? cause no one will want to buy a car with only one t-top or 2 t-tops but in different colors and i heard they come in 10 or 12 different shades .
  • when i get on it i get hot air out of vents also 5 speed 1988 300zx cant set speed green light comes on dash little set buton when i push dont wor i replace relay whole switch now what? thanks
  • My cruise control was working then simply quit. Someone suggested I check the vacuum hose which I did and it appears to be working. Any other suggestions? I have some longer trips and would really like to have it in working conditions.


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