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Nissan 300ZX, all models



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    You can check your fuse box but often with these old cruise controls it is the electronic amplifier (module). But I hope not , as it is expensive. There is also a cruise control relay, (RH side of engine compartment in the relay box, marked I think A.S.C.D) a servo (vacuum operated and also on the RH fenderwell) and the cruise control switch itself in the driver's area. All need to be looked at.


  • Thanks, will check out all the things you mentioned.
  • ardycardyc Posts: 1
    I own a 1984 300ZX - T top, less than 50,000 miles. One owner. Stored in a garage. Driven few miles each year. Can anyone tell me what is the value of my Z and is there a good place on the web to advertise it? Oh yes, just one other thing -- it was painted a year back -- Porsche Purple. I love the car and as far as I know it is in perfect condition, but since I bought it in 1984 my life has changed dramatically and it is time to let it go. It is an automatic. Has bucket seats and back seat. Thanks.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,167
    As the owner of a much higher mileage '88 2+2, I'd guess your car might fetch $3,000-$3,900 in a sale-by-owner. Sure, it's very low mileage, well maintained and original owner, all pluses, but it's also old, and this model has only modest collector interest. You might want to ask a bit more, then accept the best offer you get. Shifty, what do you think?

    As for where to advertise it, this is clearly a Craigslist candidate. Good luck, and please let us know what happens.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I think your appraisal is dead on. I'd advertise it at $3995 and see how it goes. Miles are a plus, but probably the automatic and the color are "neutral" attractions.


  • Hi I wish to sell my datsun 300 zx 1988 car. It is red original paint
    great condition, almost 80,000 miles.
    turbo t roof air leather
    one small rip on drivers seat can be repaired
    does anyone have a value
    garaged until jan 2009
    do not have a garage anylonger and wish to sell before the elements take their toll.
    thanks for any suggestions
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,167
    Is it a manual or automatic? Anything else wrong or imperfect besides the small rip on the driver's seat? Are you the original owner, and, if not, how many owners has it had? Do you have service records (preferably complete)? What maintenance or repairs have been performed in the past 12 months or 10,000 miles?
  • just bought my first car,which happens to be an 87 300zx 5spd. no turbo. completely stock. 200k on it. just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on keeping it well maintained beyond the normal tuneups and what not?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well with that much mileage, certainly you'd want to check all your belts and hoses for cracks (belts) or softness (hoses). Probably you should flush your brake and clutch fluids if they are the least bit dirty (should be clear and honey-colored). I'd also put the car on a lift and take some wrenches and sockets and snug up anything you can find.

    Oh, the tires. check the tire date. If they are really old, you might think about replacing them. Old hard tires, even if they have "meat" on them, make the car handle really lousy.


  • yeah thats kinda what sold the car for me is that it had new tires on it. and he didn't want very much for it. the car has been really fun for me,i looovvvee the ttop. the clutch is still solid but the brakes are kinda iffy. ill take your advice. luckily i have access to a lift. probably should just go ahead and replace every gasket in the engine i can huh? it has a god bit of what looks like dried up oil around the bottom of the engine block.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,167
    I'm not a mechanic by any stretch, but replacing every gasket may be preemptive overkill. Maybe a more reasonable plan would be to try to determine which gaskets are leaking first, how badly they're leaking, and go from there. However, I'd go with Shifty's advice on maintenance and repair matters.

    Anyway, congratulations on your purchase. I've owned a '88 300 ZX for a number of years. From my experience, and mine has 183,000 miles on it, these are very well made, quite low maintenance cars. Good luck with yours.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I think it's the simple things that cause the most breakdowns. A few tiny oil leaks are no big deal and generally not worth the effort on older cars. If you lift the car and see a huge oil wash from the oil pan to the differential, you know you have an oil leak that's worth fixing. But if you have a few localized drips here and there, I wouldn't bother at this point.

    Iffy brakes are not good, so check the pad thicknesses and the condition of the rotors. Again, if you see funky brake fluid in there, flush it out and bleed the system. Check the condition of the brake hoses at the calipers. Soft hoses will bulge when braking, causing a loss of brake pressure. Also look for cracks in the hoses---that's dangerous.

    So keep the "pre-emptive" to the simple but important parts of the car---the hoses, belts, brake pads---and a general tightening up.

    You can also check the water pump for looseness and leaks, and give the battery a good look, for corroded cables or low electrolyte levels.


  • well I appreciate all this info guys. im just gonna go ahead and flush the brake fluid and replace all the pads anyways.I also just replaced the battery. another thing I noticed was it smells like burning oil when and after I drive it, but I was told that it might just be what nissan sprayed on the sheet metal around the engine to reduce rust. From what i know this car should be pretty reliable as long as i go easy with it right? oh and what should I look for in the rotors to make sure its allright?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    No whoever told you that is smoking something peculiar. Good imagination though!

    The burning smell is probably a small oil leak dripping onto a hot exhaust pipe.

    As for the rotors, they should be smooth as glass (don't touch them while they are hot!!!). If you see ridges, like corduroy pants, they're toast and need to be either turned by machine or replaced.


  • alright thanks, ill let you know how it all goes.
  • well it turns out I do have the ridges on my rear rotors... bummer. so im resurfacing them tomorrow along with new pads. looks like someone maybe drove with the e brake on before i bought it. But its alright i didn't expect the car to be perfect, so im just gonna try and stay as positive as i can about it.
  • thank you for your questionsL yes i am original owner, it is an automatic, maintenance records kept maticulously last 12 months. new water pump and alterantor, maybe timing belt (i need to check), general tune up and oil changes, no additional flaws
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,167
    Adding the information you provided in your message #153 to this latest information suggests you have a very solid, well maintained (though perhaps less than pristine), one owner, low mileage car. This car has years and many miles of useful life left in it, although obtaining new replacement parts at reasonable prices will become an increasing challenge.

    If this description is accurate, I'd say it would be reasonable to ask $5,900, and adjust the selling price (or not, if you're lucky), based on how much interest develops from prospective buyers.

    Incidentally, by the 1988 model year these cars were no longer Datsuns, but Nissans. Therefore, I'd advertise it as a 1988 Nissan 300ZX turbo, because the Datsun brand applied to Z cars from the '70s and early '80s.

    Shifty, your opinion is always useful.

    Please let us know what happens.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    That's a fine starting price. It's a bit strong of a price IMO for a Z31 car (pre 1990) but certainly a reasonable asking price for openers. I'd rather expect that for $5900 the car would be rather pristine but perhaps it really is a good-looker with just a few little blemishes.

    The Z32 model is a lot stronger in the marketplace. The difference between a Z31 and the next year's Z32 can be double the value! Why? Probably because of styling. The Z 32 is considered by most to be more attractive.


  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,167
    For a long time, and especially in the '90s, I thought the Z32 was far more attractive than the Z31. With the passing of time, though, the 31s began to gain on the Z32, looks wise, in my eyes. That's why I've kept my Z31. I know full well that it'll never be more than a used touring type car, but I think it's aging gracefully. At this point Z31s are fully depreciated.

    Styling is a very personal matter, of course.
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