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Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    >"I am wondering whether owners of 04-06 pilots either (a) regretted not getting an extended warranty due to expensive problems arising after 36,000 miles or (b) are glad they bought an extended warranty, or (c) haven't needed one at all b/c their pilots have been trouble free. "

    Too many things to go wrong that are very expensive to "fix".

    Example: Our 03 CR-V AC compressor self destructed. Car had over 36K miles and was more than 3 years old. Service writer said the cost would be in the $3000 range as everything in the AC system would need to be replaced, due to pieces and particles from the compressor "floating" around in the system, that could damage any new parts.

    Truthfully, I don't know if there was a problem with the AC that Honda was "Fixing" free under some type of secret extended warranty or what. But we do have a Honda Care Extended Warranty. We paid nothing and also got a free rental car, while repairs were being made. They even replaced the hoses, which are considered a "WEAR" item

    Our 03 Pilot had some kind of issue that was covered under the EW, seems it was the EGR valve. Took them 2 days to find the problem. Part was under $100, but the labor would have been seriously expensive. Seems I paid a $50 deductible but maybe not even that. Got a free rental car.

    '95 Maxima, that we traded for the CR-V, had EW claims that just about paid for the EW.

    For us, the EW is negotiated, right along with the price of the car. We don't buy the car without the EW, so they are inclined to "DEAL" a bit better. :shades:

    Kip
  • Thanks for your thoughts.
  • The same thing has been happening to my 2007 Pilot. I have noticed the car is usually covered with dew when this occurs. The dealer has worked on it twice. Once replacing a multiplex unit and the 2d time replacing both front and rear passenger door lock actuators. Three weeks later the same thing at 6 AM.

    It would appear the dealer doesn't have a clue and is just guessing. Anyone have any ideas?
  • tjc30tjc30 Posts: 11
    I have a 06 pilot that has 9K miles on it. In '06, someone hit my vehicle on the passenger side and one door has to be replaced and the second one repaired. It was a hit and run. No other issues. It was repaired at a local shop not a honda dealer.

    Now, I am thinking about buying an EW but wanted to make sure this incident does not bring any issues down the line ? Or is it ?

    Can someone advice. Please..
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    I know I haven't posted in awhile, but I'm always reading. Anyway, besides going through the local dealers parts department (which will be expensive) does anyone know where I would be able to get a replacement lower front air dam for the passenger side. Oh yeah, I have a 2006 EX Pilot. My wife the other night after our lovely development finally decided to plow the streets block the driveway with the mound of ice tried to go into our driveway by driving through the mound. she mis-judged the edge of the curb and caught the cement with the air dam and CRACK. this is the little black part that hangs down infront of the passenger front tire and has a little curve to it. I've also checked on College Hills Honda parts page and can't seem to find it listed as a part. I'm going to give a call to a local salvage yard on Monday to see what they can work out. Looks like an easy repair as it is only moulding and no electrical or A/C ducting there. :sick:

    Odie
    Odie's Carspace
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    I know what you mean but I can't find it in the Bumper section either. Best is to take a photo or email them with below photo though this's 09 model pic that can show that piece.

    image
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    This is a nice close up on it. Turns out it is te Right Fender Liner. Goes from this part all the way around the wheel well. Checked my local Hoda Dealer and they need to order it. $70 for just the part, or $92 for part and install. Colleg Hills has it for $53, but not sure on S&H. I'm gonna give a ring to a few salvage yard tomorrow and see what they can do.

    Odie
    Odie's Carspace
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Don't know whether this the correct one ...

    HondaAutomotiveParts.com (Majestic Honda)
    Under FRONT - FENDER
    P/N 2321147 FENDER, R. FR. (INNER) $48.54
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Hi everybody,

    Does anybody have a table showing how fast the battery should loose voltage because of the current draw when the Pilot is stored for weeks - months in a garage ?

    I find it weird that my 2008 Pilot battery reaches 11.9V (so 60% of the charge is already gone) after only 2 weeks of storage.

    I have an electronic rustproofing system (kept ON all the time) and I am afraid that it takes too much current. Or perhaps actually the Pilot itself wastes too much current when shutdown ?

    I used the following table:

    Voltage____State of Charge
    12.6V_______100%
    12.5V_______90%
    12.42V______80%
    12.32V______70%
    12.2V_______60%
    12.06V______50%
    11.9V_______40% (so here I am after only 2 weeks !!!)
    11.75V______30%
    11.58V______20%
    11.31V______10%
    10.5V_______0%

    Regards
    :shades:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Is there any way to turn off the rustproofing system during extended storage?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    Here is some info from the Trojan battery company.

    TABLE I. State of charge as related to specific gravity and
    open circuit voltage

    Percentage of Charge Specific Gravity Corrected to
    80o F Open-Circuit Voltage
    SG 6V 12V 24V 36V 48V
    100 1.277 6.37 12.73 25.46 38.20 50.93
    90 1.258 6.31 12.62 25.24 37.85 50.47
    80 1.238 6.25 12.50 25.00 37.49 49.99
    70 1.217 6.19 12.37 24.74 37.12 49.49
    60 1.195 6.12 12.24 24.48 36.72 48.96
    50 1.172 6.05 12.10 24.20 36.31 48.41
    40 1.148 5.98 11.96 23.92 35.87 47.83
    30 1.124 5.91 11.81 23.63 35.44 47.26 Iffy
    20 1.098 5.83 11.66 23.32 34.97 46.63 Killer
    10 1.073 5.75 11.51 23.02 34.52 46.03 “

    Discharging

    Discharging batteries is entirely a function of your particular application. However, below is list of helpful items:
    1. Shallow discharges will result in a longer battery life.
    2. 50% (or less) discharges are recommended.
    3. 80% discharge is the maximum safe discharge.
    4. Do not fully discharge flooded batteries (80% or more). This will damage (or kill) the battery.
    5. Many experts recommend operating batteries only between the 50% to 85% of full charge range. A periodic equalization charge is a must when using this practice.
    6. Do not leave batteries deeply discharged for any length of time.
    7. lead acid batteries do not develop a memory and need not be fully discharged before re charging.
    8. Batteries should be charged after each period of use.
    9. Batteries that charge up but cannot support a load are most likely bad and should be tested. Refer to the Testing section for proper procedure.

    FWIW: Leaving the inside lights on can kill a battery in a day or so. Leaving the drivers door ajar and its courtesy light ON can kill a battery in a few days.

    I suggest you keep a trickle charge going to your battery for your application. Trickle chargers can be bought at any automotive store or even Walmart. If an electrical outlet is not available, a solar panel is a good option. Of course it would need to be mounted outside so it can get sunlight.
    Some solar panels have built in controllers that keep the battery from overcharging and keep the battery from draining when the solar panel is at idle at night. Others require a separate controller. Google "Solar Panels".


    Kip
  • tsytsy Posts: 1,551
    That's interesting- I've been wondering why my 2006 Pilot's battery dies so quickly. If I park it for 2 weeks without driving it I can't start it. And that's with a brand new battery! I wonder what is using up the battery while it's parked?

    If stored for a long time (ha ha, 2 wks!) you should probably disconnect the battery or buy a trickle charger/battery tender.

    Good luck!

    tom
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Kipk, your table data for 12V, and my table data are close to each other.

    Tidester, my rustproofing system draws 10mA only according with their website, which for a typical 50 Ampere-hour battery should allow a battery life of 50 / 0.01 = 5,000 hours = 208 days = ~7 months. So it's not the rustproofing system who discharges the battery. It's something in the shutdown PILOT drawing that current !

    By the way, I leave the driver door open all the time in the garage (there are no courtesy lights at the bottom of the front doors because I removed the bulbs the day I brought the car home from dealership). Could an open door raise the current drawn from the battery ?? If not, what the hell draws so much current from the battery when anything is shutdown ?!

    Tsy, both you, other people, and myself saw this happening, so probably all our cars are OK. By design the Pilot draws too much current when shutdown. DOES SOMEBODY KNOW WHAT DEVICE TAKES THAT CURRENT? Perhaps I could put it in garbage, like I did with the door bulbs.

    :confuse:
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    By the way, I leave the driver door open all the time in the garage (there are no courtesy lights at the bottom of the front doors because I removed the bulbs the day I brought the car home from dealership)

    Is there a reason to leave the driver door open instead of close?
    Other than courtesy lights there may be something else (chime maybe) consuming the battery while door is open.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    OK bigdadi, will do. I closed the doors, locked the car, charged the battery, and will monitor the battery voltage for about 10 days till my wife will need the car.

    Initially I laughed at your idea, but now I realize that one of the many new&useless&fancy features new cars have is that they lock by themselves if you don't physically open the door sometime after you electronically unlock the doors. Which means that after you unlock the door, some stupid electronic device waits to see if you open the door or not. And if you don't open any door, it will lock back anything by itself. I wonder what current that device wastes, while the locks are unlocked.

    So the wasted current could be related either with the door physically open (as you say), or with the unlocked locks. Or it could be related with none of them, and it's a "new feature" of the Pilot: it just wastes current at all times (even when shutdown).
  • In the old days, I used to check for battery draw by disconnecting the battery cable and touching it back to the battery post. It makes a slight spark that you can see in dim light. Then I would remove each fuse to find the circuit that had the draw (there would be no more spark) and go from there. If you don't see any spark at all, then it is the battery itself that has a bad cell. Today we can use a multi-meter and watch the amps when you pull fuses.

    There is absolutely nothing (normal) that draws the kind of current that would drain a battery in a couple weeks, PERIOD. There is definitely something wrong happening. Lead acid batteries have a very low self-discharge rate but should be charged once at least every couple months during service, which your car does every time you drive it.

    My forty-year-old truck sits outside all winter for months at a time and cranks right over. The problem with it is that the fuel evaporates from the carburetor and takes some cranking to get gas again.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Dear justaveragejoe,

    With all due respect, your knowledge is obsolete ! Me too I had a 1989 Volvo 240 which I left for 5 months (winter included) unused. After that I turned the key and the damn thing started. Great cars we had in those old days !

    But these days it's different. Cars have all kinds of memories storing engine settings, software programs, radio stations, etc. They all waste current, which kills the battery in a matter of weeks instead of months.

    And by the way, I enjoyed reading about your method of finding the circuit that had the draw without using any instrument (not even a multimeter). As a side note I would like to mention that if you do your trick (battery post sparking) while you forgot to turn OFF the radio/CD, then you will burn the microprocessor in it ! Funny isn't it ? I read this in my other car User Guide. You should never disconnect a battery while the radio/CD player is turned ON ! If you do ... you will have to sing to yourself ...

    Cheers
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,998
    I would have thought that the memory settings would be maintained with some sort of static ram instead of dynamic ram. And I would have thought that the electronics would just sit there until you had the key in the ignition, with the exception of the security system. Maybe they should just put in a reset button so you can retrain the ECU stuff that way instead of having to disconnect the battery.

    The constant drain and subsequent failure to start would be rather annoying.

    I don't read all the discussions about all the cars around here, but it sure seems that only Pilot owners are reporting this issue in any number.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Hi, I'm getting code A16 on my '07 Pilot. I checked manual, looks like I will be needing oil change, tire rotation and VTM-4 fluid. Anyone knows how much it will cost me for having this maintenance? Any estimate? My local Honda dealer (San Jose,CA) where I purchased car quoted me $150 which I think a little pricey. Thanks in advance.
  • Maybe a little high, but my tire rotation plus VTM-4 fluid change cost me $ 100 including state tax.
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