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Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair



  • kevman3kevman3 Posts: 30
    Anybody ever change their own brake pads on a Pilot? My 05 has 40K, needs brakes. I'd like to do it myself. Seems like the pad just slides in. Any advise or videos to share?

  • cwoodycwoody Posts: 17

    I replaced the pads on my 04 Pilot. By far the easiest I have done. If you have swapped pads an any disk brakes before then it is straight forward.

    First you should probably double check how much pad is left. I got 75K miles out of mine and they still had pad left. Also you should probably replace both Front & Rear at the same time. My Pilot had worn them very evenly, side to side and front to rear. Next I wewnt to Majestic Honda on the web and bought my pads, they were a LOT cheaper than my local Honda dealer even after S&H. About $50/set and they were Honda Pads.

    Changing them was very simple, Remove tire, remove 2 bolts holding caliper to the spindle (10mm or 13mm wrench), remove the pad farthest from the caliper piston, use a C-Clamp against the remaining pad to recess the piston back into the caliper slowly, remove the remaining pad, install the new pads (after applying supplied black goop to the back side of the new pad and between the pad and the thin metal shield, also supplied), slide them into the caliper, reinstall caliper, reinstall wheel. Repete on the other side. Press brake peddle to seat the pads, and you should be good to go..... Majestic Honda also has the diagrams so you can see where everything goes.
  • Yes, I understand todays cars are different, but they still are designed to not require the kind of power that drains a battery in a couple weeks. Something is wrong, wrong wrong. The only thing that should require power (at least that I can think of) is the clock (or radio clock) and the receiver for the key fob. Both of those combined can't be more than 1 or 2 milliamp. You have a 200 mA draw. That is big.

    I have never heard of any radios or DVD players (or anything else) ever being damaged by leaving them on when replacing a battery. Possibly, if the key was also left on while changing the battery but I doubt it would happen in that case either.

    Since electronic problems are difficult to trouble-shoot, even is Honda is aware of a problem, it may take them years to figure it out.
  • mitch65mitch65 Posts: 26
    I'm planning to change my tires on my 05 EX-L. I'm bringing my car to a local tire place that basically just changes tires and fixes flats. I know the TPMS sensors are in the wheel, but should I worry that the tires aren't installed correctly? Do they need special knowledge when they change the tire? I'm going to warn them about the sensors, but I'm not sure they'll really know what that means. Anything I should watch for?
  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    Need "Check Engine" Codes. Dealer won't give them to me. All the sources on a Google search want to charge for the codes.

    Anybody got a "Free" list Pilot: '03- 4wd and CR-V: '03- 4wd

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    In case you haven't tried it, enter "Honda Pilot" and the specific error code (without the quotes) in a search engine. That will almost certainly get you the information you need.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • srwendtsrwendt Posts: 1
    Check your local library; most library systems have a subscription to the ALLDATA database, where you would be able to find the codes.
  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    Appreciate the info. :)

  • carollee3carollee3 Posts: 10
    I have lost my maintenance schedule and want to know when the timing belt is due for replacement. Has anyone lost an engine because they went beyond the recommened miles?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    This may help: Maintenance Schedule

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • carollee3carollee3 Posts: 10
    NO, that was just a waste of 20 minutes. Can someone give me the answer without another search?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    I'd do it no sooner than 90K and no later than 105K unless you are operating your vehicle in extreme heat (100+ degrees) or extreme cold (-10)--then at 60K.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    You need to find out your car is with timing belt or timimg chain first... what year is your Pilot?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I'm sorry you couldn't find the information you requested. It is right there, however, and it took very little time to find that the recommendation is 105,000 miles. ( 5&transCode=AUTOMATIC&mileage=105000&zip=19106&type=&serviceType= )

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • eteledeteled Posts: 4
    This is a replica of my post that I put into wrong place originally.

    Just want to share some helpful information I didn’t find anywhere. I measured current drawing from the battery when car is parked. In my case it was new 2009 EX Pilot, 2WD, 1800 miles on the odometer. The data taken would also be useful for the future; if possible problems with the battery rose.

    Test1. The ignition switch is in LOCK (0) position, the key is in the ignition switch – 156mA
    Test2. The ignition switch is in LOCK (0) position, the key is removed – 45mA

    What does it mean for the owner? If you leave your car in the garage with the key in the ignition switch (which most of us do), the 100% charged 60Ah battery will lost 80% of its capacity within 13 days (or within 45 days without the key). That was theoretical calculation. In addition to that, flooded lead-acid batteries have relatively high self-discharge rate even without any external circuits. It could be 8-40% per month (2-10% per week) depends on how old the battery is.

    One note for those, who will replicate this test on your car. Right after connecting MM, the current jumps up to 2-3 Amps, then gradually gets down within 10-15 seconds. So, set your MM properly or it could be damaged.
  • On test 1, that would make sense since the dash panel lights (among other things) come on with the key in.

    On test 2, any idea of what would be causing a 45 mA draw? That still seems really high.

    As for the 8-40% self discharge per month, that too is a very high figure. That number is typical of a NiCd or NiMH (or maybe a deep-cycle type marine battery that should be kept on a trickle charger). A sealed lead acid battery should only loose around 5% of it's charge per month, or less if it is well made.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Dear justaveragejoe, eteled and bigdady,

    YES YES YES, I finally understood the battery discharge cause !

    justaveragejoe you are right, the high current is caused by the lights in the dash being ON, and "other things". This is not important because those lights will go OFF by themselves after a minute or so.

    eteled, about the 45 mA you measure, that is caused by at least one door being open. The current drawn is function of how many doors you keep open. I think bigdady suggested that longtime ago, and he was right. Probably the security system is responsible for this current waste. So, I measured the following (with anything in the car shutdown, and with the bulbs at the bottom of the front doors removed - I always removed those door bulbs on all my cars):

    _ all doors closed: 21-29mA (it's switching between these values for some reason)
    _ one door open: 59-65mA
    _ two doors open: 65-71mA
    _ three doors open: 71-77mA
    _ four doors open: 79-83mA
    _ all 5 doors open: 84-87mA

    _ four doors open, with the lights in the dash ON: 200-207mA. My 2008 model has these lights. I am not sure if your 2009 model has this stupid "always lighted" kind of speedometer dash. I hope you don't have them because it's the unsafest option I ever saw installed on a car (I forget to turn ON the headlights at night time, because I see light in the dash all the time). What can be unsafer than driving without lights ?!?!

    eteled, it was funny to read your last paragraph ! Me too I burned my multimeter fuse during these measurements. I am happy the multimeter survived though ! The initial current is huge (very visible spark when you connect the ampermeter in series between the battery terminal and the cable). This could burn a delicate multimeter. The safe way I found for doing this measurement is "4 hands". Use the negative battery connection, not the positive one (the User Guide says that).
    So have your wife keep the negative cable touching the battery's negative terminal. Then use your hands to connect the ampermeter (the initial current will be zero because all the current will go directly from the battery terminal to the negative cable). Then tell your wife to disconnect the cable from the terminal. Now the current flows through the ampermeter (without any dangerous spike), so you can read it. Using some clamps could substitute the wife, and would also lower the probability of divorce !!!

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Now the current flows through the you can read it.

    Agreed. Ammeters are hard to read when the current spikes and fries it to a crisp. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    I have 2008 Pilot VP AWD and the car is 1 year old with 13K mi..
    Lately I have message of the "Check Fuel Cap" blinking at the window of Maintenance Minder. The message goes away if I press the little stick to choose Trip-A, Trip-B, Oil Life%.

    I am sure the fuel cap is tight as I used to click it 4-5 times so really have no clue what's wrong.

    Does anyone experience this thing?

    Car is under warranty and I will mention to dealer when I take it to dealer as the maintenance is due.
  • kipkkipk Posts: 1,576
    Could be a faulty fuel cap. Look at the "O" ring inside the cap for any flat spots or tears.

    Do you leave the car running for any reason when re-fueling?

    Definitely tell the dealer about the problem, so it will be documented.

    Hopefully they can find an error code on the computer.
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