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Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair



  • There is some limited information on this web page about knock sensor replacement on an 2003 Pilot that should help. The knock sensors are available for sale on the Internet from several companies, and it sounds fairly easy to replace. YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE IT, TOO, as it is an important part and it generates its own voltage, so you cannot bypass it, or do without it.

    See: ock-sensor-on-a-2003-honda-pilot/
  • bjaderbjader Posts: 10
    Code P0325 indicates that your knock sensor is defective. You can't erase the code unless you use ODB2 car reader but it will come back again. To figure out the exact location of the knock sensor you can request the print from your Auto parts store. You can do it by yourself by removing first the plastic cover of the engine then figure out the next steps. I hope this will help.
  • Hello - I just bought a new stereo for my Honda to try and fix the problem with the speakers not working after jumping the car. I'm curious to find out if you replaced your stereo? Did it fix the problem? I bought the stereo because it was a good deal, but I would hate to replace it and not have it work still. Where are you at in the problem? Thanks in advance
  • Hello - I'm curious to find out if you ever found out the solution to the speakers not working after changing the battery. Did you have to get a new stereo? Where are you at on the issue. I just bought a new stereo but would hate to replace it and still have the issue of the speakers not working. Please help, and thank you in advance.
  • I'm in the same position as you. I got a great deal on a new stereo but haven't installed it yet. Still holding out hope that I'll find a fix but at this point, that probably isn't going to happen. I hate to lose the 6-disc changer but am somewhat excited about having an iPod connection and bluetooth, so the new stereo isn't a terrible solution either way. From my discussions with guys at Best Buy and Car Toys, I feel pretty confident that a new stereo will fix the problem. They said once they pull out the stereo they can test the back it to see if it's even getting a signal. If it is, then the deck is bad. If not, there might be another problem. I also understand that the subwoofer will no longer work with an after-market deck because it runs on an amp in the factory deck, and the steering wheel controls won't work unless you get a separate kit. The kit plus install was spendy enough that I won't do it because I never use those controls anyway. Out of curiousity, which stereo did you buy? I chose the JVC KW-XR810.
  • My 2007 Honda Pilot has the following warning lights on: VSA, ABS and Brakes. I took it to the dealer and it read the codes 53 and 121. They said the ABS module needed replacement. I replaced the ABS module myself with a used one from a salvage yard, and the lights are still on, plus a new code 121 came on.

    Anyone out there had any issues like this one?

    Please help me..

    Melrican in Puerto Rico
  • Thanks for responding. That makes me feel better about replacing the stereo. The Honda is what my wife drives with the kids and she doesn't even like Bass anyway so if the Sub doesn't work that's OK. has the adapter for the steering wheel controls for like $70 bucks. I plan on installing everything myself. I bought the Sony Xplod CDXGT55UIW. It's simple for my wife. Has the Hookup for the ipod/iphone. No Bluetooth though. It was only $50 bucks with pretty good ratings. We'll see what happens I guess. I'll keep you posted. It probably won't be till Jan before I aptempt to install it because it's a Xmas present.
  • I had to replace the stereo on my 2006 Pilot; (it kept suddenly dying) and replaced it with a Sony MEX-BT5700U with Bluetooth. I also used the XM and steering column adapters; all works well and I love it. Now I can hook up my iPhone easily and use all hands off features.
  • I purchased a 2007 Honda Pilot EX 4x4 with 55K miles on it, clean Carfax, one owner, I have driven about 10 Pilots from various years, and never encountered this issue. That is why I bought the car wholesale sight unseen. When I got the car, it is super clean, but I was surprised at how stiff/bumpy the ride is!

    I have seen other posts about hard bumpy rides, and the suggestions of adding an Acura vibration pilot subframe brace, changing the old BF Goodrich's to something that is more suitable for off road, ie, Michelin LTX M/S, or swapping the Shock Absorbers, and hopefully improving the ride. Any users with suggestions about solving the hard ride issue, any problem solvers welcome. Thanks
  • I can't see how it could be just the tires... I have a 2011 Honda Pilot AWD with 26K miles on it and drive it a lot on steep gravel roads in the Smoky Mtns. My vehicle came with Goodyear Integra HLs on it... but regardless, I have not experienced this, and this sounds more like a shock absorber issue to me.

    Previous to the Pilot purchase, I suffered with ride issues for years with an Isuzu Axiom SUV, and the entire problem boiled down to the OEM shock absorbers and the Intelligent control system attached to them. I ended up ripping all that crap out and putting in some Monroe Sensatracs and was happy, after years of having a crappy ride, no matter what kind of tire was installed on the SUV. Other Axiom owners used Biltsteins or other high end shock absorbers for the same reason, and there are many postings about this on the Edmunds Axiom forum...

    The bottom line is it's all about the shock absorbers IMHO, unless there is some mechanical problem with your vehicle.
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,078
    I was toying with the idea of upgrading my pilots ("The Beast") low beams to HID's after one of the standard bulbs finally blew I ended up going with a higher power (6000k) Silverstar Ultra's over the Standard Halogens (3100k). I didn't want to go the HID route after a friend warned me I wouldn't be able to submerge with them in due to the power module. The new lights are out of this world better. Anyone looking for alot better vision at night check them out.

  • Had same problem on my 05 Pilot with 86,000. Repair was $6500
  • jeng3jeng3 Posts: 2
    I have 2001 Pilot and ever since we bought it we have had issues with the car not starting...sometimes. I have taken it in numerous times, but they can't recreate the issue. I have noticed that the green key light comes on when it won't start so I think it doesn't recognize the keys. One time I tried all three keys and none of them worked. If you wait a few minutes (one time 20 minutes) it eventually started. Any ideas on how to tell the dealership what is wrong? or how to recreate it?
  • jeng3jeng3 Posts: 2
    Sorry that should have said 2011 Honda Pilot
  • matt151matt151 Posts: 1
    make sure the back window is shut all the way. I had the same problem, and when I checked out the hinge the previous guys were talking about, and re-shut the window, the beep came back.
  • verybeegverybeeg Posts: 13
    I own a 2009 Honda Pilot EXL. The car has 40,000 miles. I purchased the extended warranty that'll cover me for another 3 years. I am debating whether to trade it in or keep the car. Can anyone tell me what I should expect to replace, out-of-pocket, in the next 3 years?

    So far, I already replaced all 4 tires (at $800, ouch). The front rotors and brake pads have to be replaced, but I haven't done that yet, and was quoted $450-$550. I probably need to replace the rear ones soon too. Besides these, what else do I expect that are not covered under warranty?

    By my calculation, the difference between keeping this 2009 vs. purchasing a new 2012 Pilot is $7,000. This means, if I don't spend another dime on repairing the 2009, I'm $7,000 better off with my old car. But if the total repair cost in the next 3 years exceeds $7000, then I'm better of buying a new car (of course, factoring in my time at the shop.)
  • cayceccaycec Posts: 4
    You never come out better buying new. At 40K miles, you are just now overcoming all the fee's the dealer charged you to purchase this one new. So you spend a $800 on brakes? That 1.3 car payments on a new pilot. You most likely will not have to spend another dime Till 100k Miles if you bought good tires. At that point you might look at the timing belt. Then your good for another 100K. I have an 05 Pilot with 167 K. I spend almost 0 a year on repairs. And I have a Element with 196K. Same there.
  • Hi verybeeg: I own an Honda Pilot 2011 4WD along with the 100,000 mile warranty. I have about 35K on mine so far, including some towing and steep mountainous gravel road travel, as well as lots of interstate travel.

    As to your question, you did not say if you wanted to trade in on another Honda Pilot, or a different vehicle, which makes a big difference in the answer. I say that because Honda is offering 0.9% financing on the 2012 Honda Pilot for up to 60 months right now, which is a FANTASTIC deal if you can find a dealer that is offering a decent price on the new 2012 Pilots, as well as a good trade in, or if YOU are a great haggler. Anyway, as you no doubt realize, 0.9% is like getting a loan from the Federal Reserve! Also, they are offering 0.9%>1.9% on Ridgelines, which if I had to do over, I might have bought instead of my Pilot, since I treat mine like a pickup anyway.

    While there are a lot of things about the Pilot that I really dislike, it does have a lot going for it: good mileage for its size (I get 18-21 mpg), roominess, safety, resale, appearance, sturdiness, and towing capacity, to name a few. If those matter to you, then you may want to stick with what you have and save the $7K

    Back to your question: what repair costs to expect? If you have the same extended warranty that I do, then you should only be paying for wear and tear items, not warranty problems. I have had mine to the dealer for failure of the left front transaxle seal, which would have cost me $700, but cost me nothing! Also, a minor trim problem with the body that they took care of.

    To save bucks, I learned how to do my own fluid changes. So, I do my own oil changes, differential fluid changes, transmission fluid changes and so on. For the last two you have to buy pricey Honda fluids only. But, it was not that hard to do, and there were video tutorials online. So, I have changed my tranny fluid and the differential fluid recently. Both had magnetic drain plugs and both had some tiny metal particles attached to them and both fluids needed to be changed. So, if you are not willing or able to do this yourself, you should pay someone to do it for you, probably the dealer, since the tranny and rear end differential REQUIRE Honda fluids. Put another way, don't go to Iffy Lube to get it done, or you will void your warranty by using non-Honda fluids.

    If you had a mechanic buddy, with an air compressor and air ratchets, and the know how, you could change the front rotors and brake pads yourself, but it is a difficult repair if you have not done it before. I would also point out that you can get this done at any competent mechanic, not just the dealership, so a Firestone or reputable tire place could do this for you instead, perhaps at a lower price. You should shop this one around.

    One odd thing is that it seems premature to be replacing rotors. Are they warped? If so, why didn't the Honda warranty cover that if it is premature? Your Honda rotors should not warp, and if they have - your dealer should be forwarding your request for assistance to the regional Honda office if your warranty doesn't cover this! IMHO the warranty should, because the rotors should NOT warp. If they are just worn and not warped, rotors can be turned and reinstalled, (as you may know) and you can get another 40K miles out of them. So, this task warrants a 2nd opinion IMO.

    Last, but not least, i would say that just because you are replacing the front rotors, it doesnt mean you have to replace the rear ones. In fact the rear brakes get a lot less wear than the front. Quick stopping causes the problems with the front disc brakes, as the weight of the vehicle is transmitted to the front.

    So, unless some mechanic has told you otherwise, (and I would question whether the dealership is setting you up if this IS the case), then you should not need rear disc rotors replaced. Pads at the most, and I am even dubious about that.

    IMHO, it's too early to do the trade-in, because of the loss of value you mentioned. But, if you do, it's a great time to do it! Also, if you keep it, do the tranny fluid and diff. fluid changes, which are the two big ticket repair items, and are inexpensive maintenance tasks. Use synthetic oil in the engine at all changes and change it when prompted or on time, and you should not have that many problems. Or only minor ones that the warranty should cover anyway.

    Hope that helps.
  • jamie1983jamie1983 Posts: 20
    edited July 2012
    I have a 2010 honda pilot, I recently noticed some rattling/something loose in the left front. I saw there was a recall on the 2011 due to some issue with the front suspension, has anyone had this problem with a 2010? I am going to take it to get looked at on Thursday. I hope it's just something loose and can be tightened and nothing major.
  • The suspension recall affects both 2010 and 2011 Pilots, so that is certainly a possibility for you. You can go to the website and plug in your VIN and find out today. Your VIN can be found on the dash or on your insurance card.

    However, my 2011 Pilot was not affected by this recall, but when I noticed an odd popping noise coming from the left front suspension and took it in to be checked out, it turned out to be premature failure of the front axle seal, an issue fully covered under the warranty (Otherwise a $700 repair). So, that's a possibility, too. Either way, you'll need to put it on a rack to figure it out, so a trip to the dealer is probably in order, because it could be a safety issue.

    Post back with the outcome.
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