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Nissan Quest 2004+



  • It seems to me it just an switch or knob in the same area as the sensor override button is (lower left dash on my 2004) I will check it out when I get home.
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Hey Calvin i have done every thing but PULLED the cover off that KNOB and still Nothing.. Not even when i attempt to turn them to the ON position... Got me fustrated and my Wife concerned also.
    Thanx for taking a look when you get home also..
  • ckeoughckeough Posts: 15

    I haven't been here is a while. My tranny "slipped" with the tach needle going up, but was also noisy during some slips giving out a "grinding or whining" sound under acceleration. This was not all the time, usually when turning to the right and up a slight incline. Dealer's mechanic went for a ride with me one morning and it took 5 miles of turns to get it to do the problem, he immediately said "It's slipping, we need to replace it"

    Recently the "vibration' at 2100 RPM has started and I did find TSB 04096. This appears to be the exhaust problem reported by many. Never felt this before, van has 29000; 2006 S.

  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    for some reason my Nissan interior lights wont come on NONE of THEM?? Anybody got any Clues???

    Thanx in advance
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,662
    Did you check the fuses?

    You mean each individual light or the master switch to the left of the steering that turns them on all at once? BTW...did you check the obvious to make sure the master switch is not turned off...and is in the door position?
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Hey Ivan I checked each Fuse( They dont particularily say Interior lights (ANYMORE) But I toned out each one of them and I have the Position for Door and also tried it for the ON Position also. Let me know what you think. Checked all fuses even those under the HOOD included???

  • Calvin,
    I'm trying to pull the rear bumper skin on my 04 Quest to replace a backup sensor.
    I think I got all the fasteners off. 4 black expansion pins underneath, 2 bolts under the taillight housings plus the little twist locks . 2 bolts up near the mud guard.
    The problem I'm having is the 3 or 4 clips on each side at the seam where the skin meets the quarter panel. I dont want to pull too hard and break it. Is there some secret to getting this thing off without damaging it. I wouls really appreciate any advice you could provide!
  • Mark,

    I dont remember exactly, but I think ther clips you are talking about are just expansion type with plastic screws that strip & shread when you try to back out the screw. I will take a look when I get home (about an hour) & update if needed.

    I am pretty sure I just replaced them all after I destroyed most of them trying to remove them.

  • Hi Calvin,
    Thanks for the reply.
    Actually I was able to get those 4 plasitc fasteners off. The problem I am having is getting the bumper skin pulled off the back. There seams to be some kind of snap type fasteners on on each side, at the seam between the bumper skin and the quarter panel. I'm guessing that the whole thing slides off the back once all these are undone but it seems like something is going to break if I pull too hard. There is no way to get a tool in there.

    Thanks again!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,971
    Hi Mark, not sure if this sheds a whole lot of light on your problem. Found it in an online manual.


    1. Remove rear combination lamp RH and LH assemblies.
    2. Disconnect sonar sensor harness connector, if equipped.
    3. Remove top and bottom clips from rear bumper fascia
    4. Remove rear bumper side brackets from rear bumper fascia. Twist bracket 1/4 turn to remove.
    5. Remove rear bumper fascia screws.
    6. Remove rear bumper fascia.
    7. Remove rear bumper side brackets.
    8. Remove bumper reinforcement. Separate energy absorber and rear bumper reinforcement.
    9. Remove step pad from rear bumper fascia.
    10. Disconnect harness from sonar sensors, if equipped.
    11. Remove sonar sensors and retainers from rear bumper fascia, if equipped. Separate sensors and retainers.
    12. Remove sonar sensor harness from rear bumper fascia.
    13. Remove drafter duct from rear bumper area.

    Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

    Here's a photo that hopefully will be big enough to see too.

    Steve, visiting host

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • cmesurfcmesurf Posts: 1
    My engine has aquired an electric car whin. It was all the time until this week. The only thing that has changed are our temperatures. They have reached 70+. The sound stays the same no matter what you are doing. The engine runs really well wxcept for this whin. I took it to our mechanic and he had no idea, suggested it was the timing chain??? So I dropped it off at the dealer 3 days ago...They still have no idea what it might be. Told me that it might be an electric motor mount it if so it could burn up and it would not matter? :confuse: :mad:

    Is anyone familiar with this noise and have some intelegent ideas as to what it might be and what I should have repaired to get rid of the noise?
  • vonbill3vonbill3 Posts: 20
    The plastic part that retains the visor has failed on 2 driver-side visors. I returned to the dealer and had a new one ordered under warranty. The new one as delivered to the dealer had the same plastic part broken in addition to the electrical connector which also was broken. The visor has been back-ordered at Nissan and I am not sure when a new one will be delivered.

    Out of curiosity, I checked the passenger-side visor. The plastic retainer was not broken, but had 2 holes in the exact area where the other retainers have failed.

    There have been only a few reports of broken visors on this forum so I am wondering
    if this is a rare problem and am I just unlucky to have 3 failures and a potential failure or have others had failures which were not reported here.

    My 2004 Quest will be out of warranty in July, so I am concerned about future failures--the visors cost about $80.

    Also, failure is a serious hazard, because when the retainer fails the visor has a habit of dropping and hanging by the electrical connection and blocking vision. The last time this happened was on the freeway at 70 mph.
  • Hey,

    I had a buzzing/clattering noise when my timing chain tensioner failed. Other posts have described a similar failure as a whine. I think if it is the main chain, it is louder as the chaincontacts the housing. The secondary chains are shorter andrun faster so they may whine when a tensioner fails. There is a TSB out on the problem....You are not the first. If you are out of warranty you ar looking at $2000 or mor if it uis a tensioner failure.

    Good luck!

  • jpjrjpjr Posts: 1
    Here goes. This van is an electrical disaster. The radio comes on and off as it pleases. The alternator has gone bad on me twice, and now the acwill randomly blow warm air. The cd player has stopped working all together. I took it to the dealership and they had no answer for the ac or the cd player. I did a little research on my own and replaced the clutch sensor for the ac as it made the most since. Wrong. It is getting very hot in Texas, and I would like for the ac to at least work. Short of checking for ground issues or replacing the ECM, any ideas? Thanks for your time.
  • ernie144ernie144 Posts: 5
    Radio and CD were recalls. Check with dealer. Haven't heard about (nor experienced) AC issues
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Posts: 160
    We had the timing chain problem summer of '06 I believe. Yeap, it's costly. The dealer has a TSB and they should know what it is. The dealer here says they are seeing a lot of failures in all Nissan/Infinity 3.5 engines.

    Be aware that if you have a 2004 Quest, Nissan revised the powertrain warranty to 100k miles due to a 2004 customer service/satisfaction iniative.

    2004 Quest SE
  • sharriersharrier Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem with my drivers side sun visor failing and falling in my face at least 5 times. The new one replaced broke within a day. Nissan dealer said too bad . It falls and and hangs by a cord blocking my vision. This is very dangerous. The nissan dealers over the years have made me feel like I am to blame for it. I am 49 years old. I have never had a problem with a visor. They say I am too rough with it. I am not. Now they are refusing to fix the last one. So I am left to deal with this dangerous problem. I am going to have to trade it in I guess. I can not drive it like this. I do not know where to turn for help. Anyone with suggestions On what i can do
  • calvin1962calvin1962 Posts: 34
    I've expressede my view on the timing chain tensioner failure before. Mine was on the main chain chain guide. The platic hook on the end simply broke off. I had to drive 1100 miles to Forida last Decenber to get Bill Ray Nissan to fix it under warranty (Thanks again Bill eay!!!!), but it is running great now.

    Recently (since we have owned it actually) it has been the little things. Our local dealer lubed and adjusted our power door several (like 10 times) over the four years we have owned this van, and now they say that the problem is a grease build up, and "we" should be using a silicone based lube! The just did it as a "courtesy" for us since it is not a warrany item (still under 60K & 48 months). My question is...Is the door designe to only work part of the time afte the car is a couple months old?

    GRRRRRR!!!!!!! Thanks for the vent time.

  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,662
    Do your power doors stick?

    We've had one of ours stick...periodically. I've had them look at it (when it was under warranty) and all they did was spray it. They said they adjusted it...but I doubt they did (it performed exactly the same after).

    Our rear lift gate also periodically would reverse itself (going up or down)...this started a month or so out of warranty.

    Also just out of warranty we started to get the "odd" light show up (VDC off...BRAKE light)...but a re-start of the vehicle would correct it.

    We're still dealing with an exhaust rattle (for over a year now)...I've had it to 5 different places...last one cut off an exhaust shield (said it wasn't needed)...and I was tired dealing with it so I said "If it works, cut it off"...still there.

    Rattle is an 2K and 3K rpm it sounds like an empty coffee can with bolts in it...violently shaking.

    Not too impressed with the durability of the's only 3 years old...we want another 5 years out of it but I doubt it'll make it that far...or it will with all of the "features" VDC...power doors etc. non-functional.
  • calvin1962calvin1962 Posts: 34

    Never had the door stick shut, just intermittently stop/reverse when it is 80% closed. Several other smaller annoyances (radio reception is awful), but only the timing chain tensioner guide was potentially costly...about $3000.

    We do get the occasional start up in 3rd/4th gear, but turning the motor off for a few seconds has always reset it. I have seen a TSB, but have little confidence that my local dealer will have a clue.

    I look at my quest like a couple Caravan's I have owned. Great features and forward thinking design, but poor execution in too many areas. Ours is paid off in December. I hope to get at least 2+ more years out of it before I move on.


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