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Nissan Quest 2004+

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Comments

  • Did you ever solve the problem with your interior lights I have the same issue on my 2004 Quest...
  • sidsrsidsr Posts: 2
    Never did. Guess I am gonna have to take it to a dealer
  • Hi,

    my Clarion radio if officially dead. I receive an "offer" from the dealer to replace it (375$ in parts, 190$ in labor). I am out of the warranty period. :mad:

    I have been looking into 3rd party radio, there is no way I am paying this kind of money for a very average radio. This price is for a re manufactured unit ! :cry:

    Anybody had any luck with generic DIN radio installed in the CD player opening? If so, please post pictures ...
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I would exhaust all of my options before spending that kind of money for a refurbished unit.

    1) try EBay. Sometimes you get lucky and find one available.
    2) contact a few local A/V shops to see what your options are. It can be a place like Best Buy or a local shop. They'll be able to determine what can be done.
    3) Call Clarion direct
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    If you get the radio on your own, here are directions to remove the radio: http://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/quest/projects/nissan_quest_radio_removal.htm
  • Has anyone had a CD get stuck inside their Quest 2004+ player? If so, how did you fix it?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,157
    Some tips here:

    How to Remove a Stuck CD

    Steve, visiting host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28
    OK guys, I need some help here with the power sliding door on our 2006 Quest. A few days ago I inadvertently put the car in drive while the passenger door was still closing...It stopped and someone on the outside of the car gave it a shove before I could stop him...now the door does not work anymore. Brought it to the dealer and they said they really do not fix these doors, but they would replace the door motor for $900. Their only other fix was to cut the cable and use it as a manual door.

    The door does not open or close now, you can manually unlatch it, but it wont slide at all, I can get it to move a few inches by really moosing on it...but that sit. The door motor is definitely not turning, and it feels like there may even be some kind of clutch in there.

    Does anyone know where the door motor is, and how to access it? I could really use an expanded parts drwg or even just a few photos of what the sidewall looks like. Also, could use some electrical input as wel...I am sure the door motor has a fuse...but where is it?

    Tom
    2006 quest 44K miles
    tjshan68@aol.com
  • I have a shop manual for a 2004 Quest on CD someweher I will see if I can dig it up. In the meantime, you may want to try this link. it loks like you can get a Tech Service Bulletin for $12.00. The one you want is about half way down the list.

    http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Quest/2004/tsbs.shtml

    Good luck
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,665
    I'm not certain the situation you described is what caused it to stop working.

    I've driven countless times with the door still moving...and it will stop operation automatically if you drive too fast. You have to manually close it at that point.

    Also we've manually stopped the door's operation by grabbing the door and pulling in the opposite direction without the motor burning out.

    I would check the obvious items first before going to a mechanic...maybe a fuse (not certain of location)? Or a toy, stick, art work...jammed in the doors.

    It should work without the motor running...sounds like something is jammed.

    I'd use it as a manual door before I forked over nearly $1K...
  • 1qazxsw21qazxsw2 Posts: 2
    Any thoughts? Pros and cons? I have two kids (5&7) and one coming. I looked at the Town and Country. But, with all its bad rap, I'm seriously reconsidering... I need to tow a 2000 lbs tent trailer too.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The 2008 Quest has performed better than the earlier model years, 2004 & 2005. But it also could be due to less information available since sales dropped over the years.

    The positives are the engine, transmission, handling and ride. The cons are the interior quality, reliability, and some electrical issues. The best thing you can do is have a mechanic look it over.

    In the minivan world, there are very few reliable used minivans. The Sienna is the most reliable but it comes at a price. If it checks out with a mechanic and it is the right price, I would buy it.
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    Dont buy it. I have a used 04 Nissan Quest that I bought -I just needed a minivan some times on the weekend ,and it is my 3rd vehicle-so it`s not my primary car and just driven when needed. And they depreciate horribly.So I got a bargain.
    but if it`s your primary car --then avoid it at all costs.

    Horrible brakes and rotors, tire problems,rattles-like to 15 yr old car,loose trim pieces, Electrical problems like CEL etc-- so avoid the Quest . The 08 is better marginally than 04-but that`s not saying much.

    Buy a used Odyssey/Sienna. Sienna is a little bit more reliable than Ody and will be cheaper -especially now with Toyota`s recall issues. Buy a less than 3 yr old Seinna with <36k miles and buy the 7yr or 8yr 100k/125k mile ext Toyota warr for about 1000 and you will do great.
  • I agree in general. We also bought an 04 Quest, full of confidence after a couple horrible Chrysler Minivans. Actually, the Quest could have been designed & built by Chrysler. Great design concepts & pretty forward thinking gadgets but cheaply built & poorly executed. Our power door would NEVER close more than 2X ina row without help. After at lest 10 trips to the clueless dealership, I took a crack at it myself & so far so good (about a year). Other than all the rattles & armrest falling off our biggest issues wer rotors (Aftermarket have beeen great), wheel bearings (crapped out at 60K), and a tensioner mechanism on the timing chain. Our local dealer said it was because we did not change the oil often enough....huh? I will NEVER buy another firts model year vehicle, but possible after four tries they fixed most of the major problems. On the other hand the Quest has been discoe'd...Right????
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,665
    Our 05 Quest SE as been 'ok'.

    Our rear lift doesn't always function in hot weather...but that is about it.

    We have 68k miles, we had the brakes changed once, the battery once. Within the first 5k we had to have the drivers window re-seated. We've replaced the the tires once...our Yokohama AVID are MUCH better than the OEM tires...agreed...not a fan of OEM tires(note sure if 08's use the same). I've had the coolant flushed twice. AC belt is making a louder noise than normal...will get checked soon. The manual sun visor over one of the sun roofs had it's 'tab' break off...it got stuck inside...I got it out and have it manually in place. Not much use having a sun roof in TX over the infant seat :)

    No major problems so far...we fill 6 of the 7 seats so our options are limited.

    There are inconsistent rattles, which gets annoying, but we usually have so much junk in there that it all blends together :)

    There have been photos of the "NEW" Quest at the auto shows...if you're brave enough to be a 1-st year owner ;)

    We checked the others (Honda, Toyota) extensively and at the time and felt this was the best...probably would be just as happy with those...it's a mini-van after all
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    Overall we're quite happy with our 05 van with close to 50K miles. We've replaced the OEM tires, one battery, and all four brakes--all maintainance stuff, and a catalytic converter under warranty.
  • calvin1962calvin1962 Posts: 34
    Sorry to hear about your problems. I agree the Quest is junk, but once you own it, it is up to you to decide when to unplug the thing. If the tranny is bad I think it is now. If you are keeping it, I put aftermarket slotted rotors & ceramic pads to get rid of brake issues, Front & back are <$200 on Ebay (including pads), and the brakes are a piece of cake to replace.

    I had a timing chain tensioner fail. The local dealer (the local dealer blamed me for not changing oil, but on a vacation, a deale in FL repaired it under warranty. The door has always been a problem. I fixed it the last time myself & it lasted almost a year. The dealer record was 6 weeks. I also replaced two wheel bearings at 60K.

    My 04 has 80K & I will keep it til it dies, but I will NEVER own another Nissan.

    Good luck,
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    Has anyone had trouble with the mass (or master?) air flow sensor behind the air filter? My van (05, S model, 50K miles) stalled the other day. It would start but die within seconds. Brought it in the dealership and according to code it was this sensor being dirty and causing it to misread air-fuel ratio. The engine was getting too much air and not enough fuel. Instead of replacing the sensor(which would cost $1K) I had them clean it out, which set me back $400. The van runs fine but still ont he lean side (at 108%). The desired range is 90-110%. I think if the compuer can't readjust the van back to close to 100% I'm going to try and replace the sensor myself to save money. $1K sounds too much for what sounds like a simple replacement job.

    One big word of causion to all you guys who replace your own air filters--make sure it's a tight fit. I trimmed the rubber seal off a bit to make the Fram brand filter fit. Presumably this caused dirt to get it and clogged up the sensor.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    edited June 2010
    Oh yeah, could anyone point me to a website where I can buy Nissan OEM parts cheaper than the dealership?

    My dealership says this sensor costs $500. But a quick google search gave me a website where it's listed for $125? Don't know 100% if it's the same part though.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Try http://www.partsgeek.com/. I bought front lower control arms from them last summer. It was OEM (not really a choice with this vehicle) and it still had the tag from a dealership in in the midwest.

    My guess is the part you are looking at is OEM. Because there were so few Quests sold, the aftermarket is very limited. I would feel comfortable buying the part for $125. Just make sure you know how to install it.

    Good luck.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    edited June 2010
    Thanks dtownfb. I stumbled on this site as well. It's good to know you've had good experience with them. I'll give them a try in the future. You're an old timer on here. How is your Quest holding up?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Also do a google search for "PartsGeek coupons". they always have discount codes. Normally small like 5% or so but every little bit helps.

    Overall my Quest is holding up. In the winter the driver's side sliding door rattles. I have to replace the front rotors (warping) every other year and the back rotors alternating years. but it has over 84,000 miles and all else is fine. It's been paid off for 18 months now and have no desire to add a car payment. We'll run it as long as we can. I will not buy another Nissan! Quality is too uneven for me. The Nissan dealer (service center) experience leaves me enjoying Toyota more and more. I get everything done at an independent mechanic. Very honest and easy to deal with. Actually he replaced the lower control arms for me.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    I can't speak for other brands' dealer service departments as we never used them. But I have mixed feelings about the Nissan dealer we used for service. They seem to do a good job although at a very high price. For example, they charged me $400 for cleaning this sensor and would've charged me $1K to replace it (part is $500). Well, PartsGeek lists the same part for less than $200. It makes me mad that the dealer would overcharge so much (150%)!
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,665
    I would do an online search for parts...I had to get a new intake air runner (something like that) for my Infiniti. Total price was over $1k at the dealer...I found the part (OEM) just over $200 online...and had an independent install it for $45...
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    edited June 2010
    I made the mistake of having the van towed to the dealer. Should've gone with an independent shop. The main hurdel was I didn't and still don't know one I can trust. I'll ask my friends who've been locals longer than I have.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    A good mechanic is like a good barber and a brand of under wear that fits just right. Once you find them, you never want to let them go. :)
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,665
    Of course...the opposite is true as well...dumb hair-do and a permanent wedgie...
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    "..a permanent wedgie"

    That's a good one!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I guess I jinxed myself. Had the van inspected today. I had the front brake pads, rotors and brake hardware (springs that control the calipers broke). I expected the rotors and pads because of warping. Later today the van cutoff and the SES, Slip and TCS light came on. After two tries, it started and those lights stayed on. When I got home I connected my code scanner and read P1800 & P0340 (twice). I erased the codes and ran a couple of errands. All the lights remained off.

    I think P0340 has to do with the camshaft position sensor (front bank); not sure about P1800.

    At 84k+ miles I guess it's time for things to begin breaking.....
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Posts: 758
    Sorry to hear that man. I don't understand. Were you actually able to erase the codes from the computer and turn off the warning lights that way? That doesn't eliminate the underlying problems though.
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