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Comments
Dennis
- I've been told just after buying a new car, that I'd be the 1% that declines to purchase this option, or how expensive it is to replace a tranny......they do this while your check book is still in hand after placing your down payment.
If you do buy one - better do your homework. Prices and the fine print seem to vary quite a bit.
BTW: if you wonder what the value of having 24/7 road side assistance is; AAA charges it's members $40 per year for this service - nice to have, but doesn't cost much.
The plan is refunded pro-rated should you decide to cancel it - so if you trade or your cost is "totaled" or stolen you get back a refund based on the miles or months used (whichever is greater). The plan can be transferred to the new owner for a $50 fee should you sell or give away your car.
So the worth partly depends on luck and partly on how long you keep your cars and what you do with them when you are done.
If you sell your used cars yourself to maximize ROI then you should be buying the longest HC plan for them. It would make a SUPER marketing tool when you sell your (normally) out of warranty car against all the others of the same age - when yours has a $0 deductible HC plan on it that the other cars can NO LONGER BUY. It is like selling your own CPO car - so you should be able to command more money for your car at retail.
If you trade cars and let the dealer give you some low number for it, then while you do get some money back from HC it may not be worth it to you. Still, if you paid $876 for a Civic warranty and used it 5/8 of the miles or years then you get back 3/8 of what you paid (less a $25 ? termination fee) so your cost for the coverage you used would be $547.50 (less the fee). Maybe more likely to have had a claim or claims more than that amount than the full price?
Of course, some folks forget to file a claim for refund or do not realize you can. Those people really tossed their money away. BTW, the HC plan has to be in the current owners name. So if you buy a used car with a non-cancelled plan on it and do not pay the $50 transfer fee it does you no good. HC reps have told me in the past they have seen cars in the computer with 2 or more HC plans on them at the same time
The F&I office is likely the worst time and place to buy a warranty, which is why we have the forum here and give links to places where you can buy at a discount. When compared to the normally 2x or 3x markup the dealers try to charge the discount plans with the same coverage sure seem more reasonable.
Dennis
7 years/80,000 miles warranty: ($100 deductible = $646.00) OR ($0 deductible = $746.00)
7 years/100,000 miles warranty: ($100 deductible = $951.00) OR ($0 deductible = $1,051.00)
7 years/120,000 miles warranty: ($100 deductible = $1,051.00) OR ($0 deductible = $1,151.00)
8 years/100,000 miles warranty: ($100 deductible = $1,031.00) OR ($0 deductible = $1,131.00)
8 years/120,000 miles warranty: ($100 deductible = $1,131.00) OR ($0 deductible = $1,231.00)
After you get more than 6k you have to get a quote over the phone and I have no idea how those vary. The under 6k prices are supposed to be $1 over cost and I have not seen a better price on them - yet.
Note that I have never been asked to certify the mileage on any car before purchasing a warranty. So unless you have had service on your Pilot (or purchased it used) with more than 6k then they don't know how many miles are on it until you tell them.
Dennis
and the price was $1231 ? Not $1400 !
link title
It is coupon code "edmunds55".
This one
this one too
The Honda web page
this one too too
this PDF file
well, you get the idea.
The actual details that will apply to YOU will be in the contract YOU get (though they should be the same as the samples). Since you can cancel within 60 days for a 100% refund then you have lots of time to read it over and cancel if the contract you get does not suit you.
Dennis
ph
If you pay less now, you can still get your pro rated refund if you don't keep the car the full term. And of course, you should more than recoup your investment if you sell the used car with the transferable warranty since other cars can't get HondaCare at that point.
So if you are happy, then I am happy for you. Hopefully no one will here will need the HC warranty no matter what they paid. I just stated the pros and cons of this "miracle refund" and still think that paying less makes more sense for most folks - but that is for them to decide for themselves.
Dennis
Just because this dealer does this all the time doesn't make it right or even legal. As said so many times before, "Let your conscience be your guide."
I'm not a Florida resident, but I'm curious, what is the penalty if they catch a resident doing this?
I'm surprised to learn that this is a law in Florida. My native Massachusetts? That's a different story.
- Dan
Thanks again.
- Dan
14% addtl if warranty is $1000 - use it lose it - you are out $144 - let's say 70% of people fall into this category -ev = $100.80 (7 out of 10 will pay $144 addtl)
30% will actually go full term -
ev = $300 - (3 out of 10 will receive full refund)
hmmm - even if shift the % down to 20 % the e.v. is higher with refund - ($115 vs. $200)
break even would be 13% - (87 % would pay $144 addtl w/o refund = $125 vs 13 % that would receive $1000 = $130)
i think more than 13 % of all honda care service conts run full term.
As I said: you have to pay more then NOT use it AND keep it full term or you just wasted your money. This includes not using it when you COULD get a benefit from it.
I have put forth the reasons I think this is a bad idea, just give it a rest and let folks decide if they want to take this gamble or not.
Dennis
they even sell you a warranty that if you don't use your warranty they will give you your money back?
I wonder what the commission is on that?
it's rediculous how they think of ways to hold onto your hard earned cash.
As for it helping the re-sale value of your used vehicle - it's like everthing else in the car - it depreciates. No one will pay you face value for it so it will only make your car priced higher.
So if you are selling your Honda with no warranty and I am selling mine with the remains of a 120k/8yr/$0 deductible warranty on it which should be easier to sell and get more money? Adding it to your car is not an option at this point for you or whoever buys your car.
Now, most folks seem like they trade cars to avoid the hassles of selling them (often because they do not hold the title). To a dealer or a traded car the HC warranty has no value, but the original owner can cash it out for a pro-rated refund.
So folks need to decide if they want an extended warranty or not. If they do, then the HC makes the most sense - as does getting it from a discount dealer. Paying even more for a refund "Warranty" on the warranty is an option as well. It all depends on how long you plan on keeping the car, how many miles, what you are going to do with the car when you are done, etc. Of course you may PLAN on one thing then do another
Dennis
Thanks papa for the breakdown.
John
p.h.
1/ Has anyone purchased the Bernardi warranty (hondacare) online (or via their phone number)?
2/ I will read the documentation, but I assume the warranty they sell is the same as any other "HondaCare" warranty that a dealership would sell?
3/ Can I use this warranty at my local dealership (I assume "yes", but has anyone done this? Does it reside in some computer database that all delearships can access?)
4/ No tax on the purchase of a warranty right?
5/ If I buy the 8yr/120K mile warranty when the van has 5k miles on it, is it good until 125K miles (or when the van hits 120K)?
Thanks,
Michelle
2) Yes - it is the genuine HC warranty at a cheaper prices
3) Yes, they tie this to your name and the VIN of your Oddy. So you go to any Honda dealership and they can see the terms of your warranty in their system and will honor it if you are covered and collect the deductible should you not choose the $0 deductible plan.
4) Not for me and I would assume if you are not in the state of the dealership (MA) that there would be no tax. Note that it is against the law for FL residents to purchase a warranty from an out of state dealer (stupid FL law).
5) It runs out when your Oddy hits 8yrs from the day you or the original owner purchased it (the in-service date) or when the odo hits 120,000 miles - or whatever term you decide on. Note that the pro-rate for the refund is also based on miles and months since in-service and NOT from the date and miles on the van when you purchase the plan.
Dennis
I did last year over the phone. The app is on their page, need to fax/send it to one of the two guys listed;
2/ I will read the documentation, but I assume the warranty they sell is the same as any other "HondaCare" warranty that a dealership would sell?
It is, just about 50% cheaper The Bernardi guys will mail you the receipt within a fe days; you'll receive the original contract with stickers and stuff in a few weeks from AHF (American Honda Financial.. IIRC);
3/ Can I use this warranty at my local dealership (I assume "yes", but has anyone done this? Does it reside in some computer database that all dealerships can access?)
If it is a Honda Dealership - definitely; Nor sure about the database;
4/ No tax on the purchase of a warranty right?
Nope. Unless u live in MA and they have a provision for that;
5/ If I buy the 8yr/120K mile warranty when the van has 5k miles on it, is it good until 125K miles (or when the van hits 120K)?
Until you hit 120K.
My hat off for your patience and detailed explanations, Dennis!
Today's Honda pretty much just needs fluid replacements for the first 90k miles not including the tires, brakes and wiper blades.
If time is precious to you, then you'll go to something like Jiffy Lube to get it done on the run.
The Sandman :mad:
Last time I had my S2000 in the Honda dealership handed it back to be with oil all over the steering wheel, shifter, arm rest, and center console. I had to have the clean it off before I could drive back to work.
I don't use "Jiffy" but I have had oil changes done many times at Valvoline Instant Oil change. I usually bring OEM filters and crush washers with me - and used to bring my own oil when I ran M1. I get out of the car and watch the whole process to be sure it goes as right as I can make it without getting under the car myself.
The dealer takes it "in the back" and who knows that they do or do not do to it and at what cost. Once when I checked the oil in my SVT after a dealership change I could not find the dip stick - yep, they left it out - and got a nice ("we didn't do that") do door ding in my car as a bonus.
So I say YMMV with ANYONE who touches your car for any reason. *I* would rather pay someone to do it while I watch than to pay someone to do or not do whatever (including "road testing" my car) while I can't see them - and have to wait longer.
Dennis
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
A nice "profit center" for the dealer can be a service schedule they make up themselves. A friend was taking his Toyota in base on one of those and I looked it over and it was a rip off - just designed to make extra money for the dealership. The 15k service was over $300 IIRC and included stuff like rotate and balance tires, injector cleaner, throttle body cleaner, etc.
Dennis
anyway ... i'm venturing off topic.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I suppose you've never had a problem with dealer service?
Jiffy Lube, Quick Change, the Chinese guy at the Shell station - I pull in where there's no wait and yes I make sure they use the proper weight oil.
There's no such thing as a "quick" oil change at a dealer where I live. That whole schpeal about using "authorized Honda parts" for an oil change? c'mon
Now that they have my number in their system, I get a monthly call from a salesperson (out of state area code?) who wants to book an appointment for me. I'm sure this person gets a closing fee if they book me for some expensive maintenence program.
I've seen the mailers from my local Honda Dealer which includes coupons for "maintenence tuneups". Once I called to see what was included for $300-$400 and there were all these items that the owners manual didn't even call out for. e.g. new spark plugs at 50k miles :confuse:
I wonder how many people drop their cars off not knowing what their car really needs. Only to pay way more than they have to.
- 7 years / 100k miles
- bumper to bumper for mech breakdown, not including oil changes, tire rotation, etc.
$250 deductible
all installed original eqiupment covered, including navi
$50 glass deductible
I'm planning on keeping the car for a while and than trading it in. Should I get the HondaCare EW on top of this coverage?
It is the OBDII system warning. You are lucky that Honda has the LCD and interprets the code for you. On most cars if you have the gas cap off or not on fully you will get a "check engine light" and have to take it someplace and hook it up to a code reader to see what the problem is. The gas code cap is usually P0455 (Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected - no purge flow or large leak). When my daughter did not fit hit cap properly on her old Ford she got the light and worried something was wrong until she could come by and let me read the code with a code reader. Once we saw the code we fixed the cap and cleared the code.
In the OBDII computer this code is not cleared until xx starts or xxxx usage without a repeat of the problem - so it is not something you can fix the cap and hit a button on the car.
That said, if you go someplace with a code reader or know someone that has one they can confirm the code and perhaps clear it and make the light/indicator go out now. Most auto parts places like AutoZone, Advance, etc have readers you can borrow for free or they will hook them up for you. Some will clear the codes for you if you ask. Otherwise just drive and the light should go out soon.
I do think it is cool that they trapped this - the dealers must be tickled that they did. You can imagine how many times dealers have/had to deal with loose or missing caps because folks brought in a car with a check engine light that will not go out.
Dennis
We get them in here fairly often at the ole Chevy dealer. The customer always looks at me like 'Are you nuts? SES on for a stinking loose gas cap'?
Yes'm, here's your key. Have a nice day!
I know that there is a lot of debate about whether a warranty is a good buy, particularly on a higher-mileage vehicle, but I'm superstitious and I know that the surest way to make sure my van never breaks down is to get an extended warranty now.
I've seen mention of CNA as being one of the more reputable 3rd party products, but their website doesn't have a price quote or any information for consumers, really. I called the dealership where I normally have it serviced and the service manager said that they commonly work with Service Guard and Western National. The finance guys are taking forever to return my call, so I wanted to see if you guys had any advice for me.
Thanks!
1)With GEICO you not only have to pay $250 for each repair but also for each system. Let's say you have a problem with your brake and your transmission at the same time, in this case you should pay $ 2X250= 500 deductible. This is correct if two unrelated parts of even one system ( eg; in engine) have broken down.(Please call them and ask for more info)
2)Now you can calculate, let's say you will use it just once; $7x70=490+250=740 , you can check the price of Honda extended Warranty in different web sites such as
Bernardi and compare.
3)Most dealers are more happy to work with companies which they know better, and the best for Honda is Honda backed warranty, so you get better service
4) Geico do not write insurance in some states(such as MA), if you moved you can not buy Geico any more and you probably would lose what you have paid till then
5)if by any chance you decided to sell your car sooner you can get a part of your money back from Honda EW (Per millage and time) or transfer it to the buyer, this adds a value to your car . With Geico you do not have this privelage.
That's all I know , may be incorrect or incomplete, please search more, good luck
I did notice that the quote is the same whether it was for a new car or for one with 6000 miles. Is it better to wait and buy the extended warranty later rather than now?