Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Extended Warranties Pricing and Info

17778808283126

Comments

  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    So your argument is that insurance 'taint a bad business at all ? How dare you accuse our ceo's of being greedy instead of fairly paid employees of the real owners.Oh c'mon tide, you know you wanna. Give in to your inner child. Aspesisteve, duke just used inner child in a post. Roll! Almost beating prices paid (in recent not total). With a little help from my friends.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Oh c'mon tide, you know you wanna.

    LoL! Thanks, but I've said all I want to on this topic. And please don't follow up with something so outrageous that I'd be compelled to jump in. :shades:

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    tidester, I am trying. After careful consideration from the wiser souls who have convinced me of the lunacy of buying Honda Care I have decided to drop it and receive back 117/ 120th of my premium back (contingent). Too late for a full re-imbursement,all I require is for a current detractor to indemnify me for all the parts, labor, rental reimbursement and travel insurance (daily benefit )in the current contract. To make it especially appealing, I will pay said underwriter 1/2 of the premium I paid HCOA. So in my calculations , I have paid out $940 and will receive back $916.50 less $470 which will be $446.50 ahead of my current status. Since this is an essentially riskless bet on your part, everyone knows nothing will happen on an '08 Accord before 120,000 miles, this is your opportunity to step up and steal my money . I will expect collateral assignment to illustrate your good faith but still, what an opportunity to stick it to me and grab some free cash. The initial collateral assignment will be for $23,000 but go down 7.5% per year for 8 years ( it is a new car, so for three years, err 33 months, you are sitting on high cotton) Please respond with your acceptance and let's make a deal! As an added inducement I will pay aspesisteve, mitzi or wise $471 and a 1 year subscription to CR , a $26.00 value !
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Too late for a full re-imbursement,

    Does that mean you're more than three years into the EW?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    Nein, Mein Hoster ! HC gives a full re-imbursement in the first 60 days. After that all re-imbursement is pro rata.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 612
    My reference is to service contract companies, which can (and do) go out of business leaving customers holding useless contracts, with little recourse. They take the money and run. It's happened many times. The owners of these dirtbag companies skate off and start up new companies and soak a whole new line of people. There's a sucker born every minute and they take full advantage.

    Insurance companies, on the other hand, operate under some heavy Federal laws that protect customers. Service contract companies have no such limitations. Except contract law. Go talk to a victim of Warranty Gold about how their class action lawsuit is going. (whose former owners have a new SCC up and running, having magically found funding)
  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    I can't agree more. If you do buy an EW, buy it from the manufacturer.The only 3rd party company I considered was Warranty Direct which is NYSE listed and has a substantial cash reserve.Their advantage was that the work could occur at any ase credited facility. Their disadvantage was that their coverage was not as good as HC, their price was higher, though they later sent emails and left phone calls offering to match the price or go a tad lower.But in the end they had lower coverage and no freebie auto club or travel insurance. If work needs to occur, I would prefer it to be handled by a Honda technician who will use Honda parts and has no incentive to misdiagnose or misrepresent the problem. In my experience, with an older car when you find a mechanic you can trust you hold on to them for dear life but unfortunately there are many independent shops that want to make up for not funding their retirement off of you.The trial and error method of finding a good mechanic can be expensive.
  • adam25adam25 Posts: 8
    I live in California and went to all three listed websites and saw the message that

    "Due to state laws, residents of Florida, California and Washington state
    are not eligible for these contracts"

    I bought a new 2008 Odyssey Touring back in February and was told that I better get HondaCare as Touring has lots of electronic moving parts and any of them can break down easily. What are my options now as a Californian? Do I have to get it from a local dealer or should I just not buy any extended warranties and hope that nothing major will break down.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    "I bought a new 2008 Odyssey Touring back in February and was told that I better get HondaCare as Touring has lots of electronic moving parts and any of them can break down easily"

    gee, what did the guy say who was selling you the car? Did he tout the Odyssey for tops in quality or tell you that you'd better get an extra waranty because there's all kinds of expensive things that can break?

    total fear based selling. Just say 'No thanks' , take good care of your car and keep your hard earned cash in your pocket.

    If you do opt for the warranty, and I advise against it, please tell us what the cost is. I'm curious as to the price increase due to this new rule that says you can't go out of state to shop for the EW.
  • wisemoneywisemoney Posts: 42
    In the case of car insurance, the possible benefit (getting a large accident paid for) is far greater than the cost. -mtizij

    Well there is also a possible benefit of getting a large repair paid for with an extended warranty which is far greater than the cost of the warranty. This is no different. -jet10000

    As I've tried to explain to jet10000 many times, I'll try to summarize what I've stated before.

    The point that I'm trying to make can be summed up in one equation as shown below:

    (Car's Depreciated Value)/(Collision Insurance cost) > (Largest Repair Cost)/(Extended warranty cost)

    for newer vehicles.

    In other words, the largest potential loss from an accident (Car's depreciated value) divided by the collision cost is greater than the largest potential repair cost (Engine breakdown) divided by the extended warranty cost. As the car depreciates over time, I take away the collision coverage because just like extended warranties, it is no longer a good value.

    Mathematically, when

    (Car's Depreciated Value)/(Collision Insurance cost) = (Largest Repair Cost)/(Extended warranty cost)

    then, I have NO Collision coverage and NO Extended warranty.

    Also understand that when you buy a reliable car, an engine breakdown within the time, and mileage limits of an extended warranty is MORE UNLIKELY than a costly accident. My statement about Honda engines has been documented in a magazine talking about Honda VTEC engines.

    Please try to understand my explanation. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to do so.
    This explains EXACTLY why I have collision coverage on my 2008 Honda Fit, but I choose NOT to have collision coverage on my 1996 Toyota Corolla.
  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    Some adage about money and mouth but going forward.Since you have already purchased your vehicle and since HC has great coverage of sensors and electronics, why not try going to or better yet emailing 7-8 dealers and asking them for their best quote on a HC warranty. As a guideline you should use what you would pay online with if you lived in a state other than California.
    Here is what an online dealer would charge:
    http://www.hondacareextendedwarranty.com/?gclid=CMaVtvP7oJACFQZegQodRwELrg
    Available coverage for your 2008 Honda Odyssey with 1000 miles.
    Coverage Level $0 Deductible $100 Deductible
    5 years/60000 miles $415.00 Not Available
    5 years/80000 miles $580.00 $480.00
    5 years/100000 miles $695.00 $595.00
    6 years/80000 miles $640.00 $540.00
    6 years/100000 miles $835.00 $735.00
    6 years/120000 miles $935.00 $835.00
    7 years/80000 miles $725.00 $625.00
    7 years/100000 miles $1,020.00 $920.00
    7 years/120000 miles $1,120.00 $1,020.00
    8 years/100000 miles $1,100.00 $1,000.00
    8 years/120000 miles $1,195.00 $1,095.00

    Bernardi Honda was the same, but also check Hyannis and Saccucci Honda. While they do not have to match the online price, it is additional profit if they do and though working thin it is a sale they wouldn't have otherwise. I'd make it clear that this is what you are willing to pay and see who bites.Btw ,I own my home free and clear yet I still pay my homeowners insurance depite the fact that my home has never burned down and I'm underwater vs premium paid and actual damages that have occured. Those of you with mortgages might try soliciting your mortgage company with the statistics of homes burned down in 2007 (San Diego need not participate) and the money in your pocket by foregoing this poor probability product and get their opinion.
  • wisemoneywisemoney Posts: 42
    In the case of car insurance, the possible benefit (getting a large accident paid for) is far greater than the cost. -mtizij

    Well there is also a possible benefit of getting a large repair paid for with an extended warranty which is far greater than the cost of the warranty. This is no different. -jet10000

    As I've tried to explain to jet10000 many times, I'll try to summarize what I've stated before.

    The point that I'm trying to make can be summed up in one equation as shown below:

    (Car's Depreciated Value)/(Collision Insurance cost) > (Largest Repair Cost)/(Extended warranty cost)

    for newer vehicles.

    In other words, the largest potential loss from an accident (Car's depreciated value) divided by the collision cost is greater than the largest potential repair cost (Engine breakdown) divided by the extended warranty cost. As the car depreciates over time, I take away the collision coverage because just like extended warranties, it is no longer a good value.

    Mathematically, when

    (Car's Depreciated Value)/(Collision Insurance cost) = (Largest Repair Cost)/(Extended warranty cost)

    then, I have NO Collision coverage and NO Extended warranty.

    Also understand that when you buy a reliable car, an engine breakdown within the time, and mileage limits of an extended warranty is MORE UNLIKELY than a costly accident. My statement about Honda engines has been documented in a magazine talking about Honda VTEC engines.

    Please try to understand my explanation. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to do so.
    This explains EXACTLY why I have collision coverage on my 2008 Honda Fit, but I choose NOT to have collision coverage on my 1996 Toyota Corolla.
  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    Hmmm, deja vu' .We understand the insurance portion all too well.
    The Accord has an ITEC for the 4 cyl, VTEC for the 6 cyl. Agreed a complete engine failure most unlikely. But here are some other parts priced at hondapartscheap.com so rockbottom for the shadetree mechanic and without tax , labor and all of the supplemental parts required. These are for a 4cyl 2005 Honda Accord out of warranty.The first price is list, the second their price.

    AC compressor 3 38810-RAA-A01 COMPRESSOR No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 540.77 389.35
    38900-RAA-A01 CLUTCH SET No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 178.85 128.77
    38924-RAA-A01 STATOR SET No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 140.45 101.12
    a/c condenser
    3 80110-SDA-A02 CONDENSER No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 219.40 157.97
    3 80110-SDC-A01 CONDENSER No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 421.95 303.80
    alternator
    31100-RAA-A05 ALTERNATOR ASSY. (CSC29) (DENSO) No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 293.90 211.61
    Electronics
    at solenoid
    6 28260-PRP-014 SOLENOID ASSY., LINEAR (B) No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 241.32 173.75
    at servo body
    6 27405-PRP-J00 BODY SUB-ASSY., SERVO No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 463.25 333.54
    at regulator
    7 27200-RCR-000 BODY ASSY., REGULATOR No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 197.38 142.11
    1 28015-RCL-305 SOLENOID SET A, SHIFT No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 225.58 162.42
    2 28015-RCL-306 SOLENOID SET B, SHIFT No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 150.40 108.29
    3 28015-RCL-307 SOLENOID SET C, SHIFT No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 309.25 222.66
    4 28015-RCL-318 SOLENOID SET D, SHIFT No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 279.10 200.95
    starter motor
    31200-RAA-A52 MOTOR ASSY., STARTER (SM-61209) (MITSUBA) No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 513.18 369.49
    5 31207-RAA-A51 ARMATURE ASSY. No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 216.38 155.79
    31220-PPA-A01 GEAR SET, REDUCTION No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 216.85 156.13
    oil pump
    1 13410-RAA-A00 SHAFT, FR. BALANCER No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 166.05 119.56
    5 13450-PNA-004 TENSIONER, BALANCER SHAFT CHAIN No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 55.47 39.94
    15110-RAA-A01 HOLDER SET, PUMP No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 203.98 146.87
    control unit engine room
    11 38250-SDA-A22 BOX ASSY., RELAY No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 259.68 186.97
    Contol unit ( cabin )
    3 37820-RAD-A54 CONTROL MODULE, ENGINE (REWRITABLE) No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 548.95 395.24
    combination switch
    06350-SDA-A32 CYLINDER SET, KEY No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 404.82 291.47
    2 35100-SDA-A71 LOCK ASSY., STEERING No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 228.10 164.23
    Fuel injector
    10 17050-RAA-A00 BASE, INJECTOR No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 176.52 127.09
    16 36281-RAA-A01 VALVE, AIR ASSIST No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 99.98 71.99
    13 17146-RBA-004 GASKET, EGR CHAMBER No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 32.80 23.62
    3 16620-RAA-A01 PIPE, FUEL No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 79.73 57.41
    oil pump
    1 13410-RAA-A00 SHAFT, FR. BALANCER No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 166.05 119.56
    5 13450-PNA-004 TENSIONER, BALANCER SHAFT CHAIN No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 55.47 39.94
    15110-RAA-A01 HOLDER SET, PUMP No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 203.98 146.87
    ps pump
    1 06561-RAA-505RM P.S. PUMP (RMD) No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 314.17 226.20
    1 56110-RAA-A02 SUB-PUMP ASSY., POWER STEERING No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 612.17 440.76
    ps gear box
    13 06536-SDA-505RM RACK ASSY., POWER STEERING (RMD) No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 430.52 309.97
    13 53601-SDA-A04 RACK, POWER STEERING No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 572.07 411.89
    oil sensor
    37260-RNA-A01 HONDA ACCORD OIL PRESSURE SENSOR ( No Color ) 2008 ACCORD 111.85 80.53
    clutch torque converter
    5 26000-RAA-315 CONVERTER ASSY., TORQUE No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 507.22 365.20
    abs modulator
    57110-SDA-A22 MODULATOR ASSY. No Color 1 2005 ACCORD 1164.03 838.10

    Will anything go wrong in 8 years ? No idea, that's what insurance is for. I don't think anyone buys hc for catastrophic failure.As stated ad infintum my discounted price less ancillary benefit's I'd pay for regardless yields a low cost for 5 additional years of protection after std warranty. If I decide to sell ( no intentions at this time) I can get a much better price after std warranty than someone who doesn't offer the benefit.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    "If I decide to sell ( no intentions at this time) I can get a much better price after std warranty than someone who doesn't offer the benefit. "

    Sure you can get more, but are you netting more in the resale of your car?
    It's not like the EW is going to appreciate...you know?

    You can list all the parts and costs to replace you want. The one item that I'd like to point out is the profit made by the EW provider and the commission made by the person selling it to you. The EW provider knows full well that these things rarely break down...that's why they are making a handsome profit. A profit that now stands to increase because they're shutting down EW sales over the internet.
  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    Ah, you're back. I was afraid I had scared you off with my challenge. How much more would I get on a resale. Difficult to know since I lack the personal experience.But perhaps someone will post who has done a resale and transferred the EW for $50. I may never sell, and drive this Honda until metal fatigue sets in. But to hypothesize a theoretical, If I were to sell a 4 year old Honda Accord with 48,000 miles then the new buyer would have 4 years and 72,000 miles with great coverage . I'd say $1,000 over average retail (non dealer). Mileage and extra age would determine the value. How much did you say you were paying for full collision per year? My point in the long price list was that you do not need catastrophic failure , just an expensive non powertrain mechanical part plus tax and labor.I don't think a pump or starter motor would be indicative of a poorly made car but they do cost don't they? A large enough statistical sample ( tide are you out there? ) is necessary for any insurance to post premiums and expect a profit. Bottom line, sucks to be in the greater repairs needed than average in the distribution. So far all the old names haven't upwardly adjusted their discounted EW's.

    Apologies for "bub" . It was designed to evoke a pavlovian response.Glad you thought it funny too.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    tide are you out there?

    Present! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I just made the mistake of overpaying on an EW when purchasing a new Honda. We are going to exercise our right to cancel. We were going to wait 30-60 days & repurchase through another dealer, however when I spoke with Honda Care yesterday, they said we could never purchase another Honda Care warranty if we cancel the current contract. Have you heard of other people having issues with this?
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    so you think the EW would appreciate or hold it's value?

    If you think the value of the EW should hold it's value, then you are just limiting your pool of buyers. You will have to find a buyer who feels the same way as you. I don't think the majority of car buyers opt for the EW. If someone wants to throw it in with the car - I'd take it. But I'd never pay face value for it plus the fee to transfer it into my name.

    I don't know why you insist on comparing auto insurance with an EW. If the guy selling the EW asked me if I planned on getting Collision on my new Honda and used that as a reason I should buy the EW, I'd break out laughing at him.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    "however when I spoke with Honda Care yesterday, they said we could never purchase another Honda Care warranty if we cancel the current contract"

    I guess you'll have to read the fine print to see if that's true. If not, it's just another fear tactic to help them hold onto your cash. I wonder how many people change their mind after hearing that!

    Please let us know how that turns out.
  • bug4bug4 Posts: 370
    I made a detailed post about using EW as a marketing tool for resale some time back. I have a brother who is an expert at selling newer, used vehicles [he seems to have to have the next big thing every year or two - and he has 2-3 cars at any time]. He swears by the extended warranties! He has sold everything from BMWs to Mazdas. He has never claimed he will get extra money because of the EW, but his experience confirms that the EW allows you to get the full market value out of the car and 2) generally leads to a fast sale (not a lot of time from the first advertising until it is sold).
  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    "however when I spoke with Honda Care yesterday, they said we could never purchase another Honda Care warranty if we cancel the current contract"

    I canceled my Honda Care when I sold my old car and got a prorated refund. And when I bought my new Honda I bought another Honda Care.

    So what they told you was not true in my case. I'm not sure why you called Honda Care anyway, as the cancellation is done at the dealer (they send in the cancellation to Honda Care.
  • wisemoneywisemoney Posts: 42
    The point that I'm trying to make can be summed up in one equation as shown below:

    (Largest Claim = Car Value)/(Collision premium) is much greater than
    (Largest Claim = Largest repair bill)/(Extended warranty cost)
    for newer vehicles.

    For any particular vehicle, you need to analyze the above equation very carefully. This equation is the mathematical explanation and proof of my argument.


    I'm sorry, but speaking as a mathematician, that's hardly a mathematical proof... if you've ever seen a real proof, you would know what I mean.

    While I get the gist of what you're saying, you've over simplified it and weighted it to greatly benefit the collision ratio. I won't hide the fact that I'm a pricing actuary for an EW producer, so some of you may think I'm biased (maybe), but to really compare apples to apples, you would need to:

    1) use the premiums over a comparable time period: If you have a 5-year EW, you would also need the premium paid over 5 years for the collision coverage.

    2) use the average value of the vehicle over that same time period.

    3) use total claims, not one time greatest claim. While the largest claim on the collision would be a one-time occurrence, the largest repair bill does not preclude more of the same large repair bill(s) in the future (ask your shop how long it guarnatees replacement transmissions and rebuilt engines).

    4) use frequency of claims. While I don't specialize in auto collision pricing, I had had been told in the past that the chance of a total loss claim is about 1% a year; that amounts to about 5% over a 5 year period. Compare that to the approximately 30% chance of a powertrain claim over $500 (based on my company's data, ~3M contracts) over the same period.
    - riskadverse

    I somewhat agree with statements 1 and 2 and 3, but not 4. Let me first explain statement number 1. When I wrote the equation, I implied collision premium means the total cost of premiums during the time in which the extended warranty coverage applies. Keep in mind that when you buy an extended warranty, it only covers the time after the factory warranty to the end of the extended warranty. The rest of the time you have double coverage, so the factory warranty is good enough.

    For example, most car manufacturers have a 3 year 36,000 mile factory warranty, so if you bought a 5 year 80,000 mile extended warranty, the extended warranty would only cover year 4 and year 5 or 36,000 miles to 80,000 miles, whichever comes sooner. In other words, the extended warranty covers the full 5 years or 80,000 miles, but you're really paying for year 4 and 5 or 44,000 miles.

    Therefore, in order to make an apples to apples comparison, in this example, you would need to compute the collision premium paid during those 44,000 miles, and the average depreciated value during those 44,000 miles. Let me clarify my equation for this example.

    (Total Collision Claims Paid during EW period)/(Collision Premium during EW period) is greater than
    (Total Repair Claims Paid during EW period)/(Extended warranty cost)

    for newer vehicles.

    The EW period in this example is (44,000 miles after the factory warranty ends) or (2 years after the factory warranty ends) whichever comes sooner.

    In response to statemnt 3, the largest claim on the collsion coverage is NOT a one time occurance. A car can be totaled many, many times, and each time that it is totaled, most insurance companies will give you the depreciated value of the car to buy another one. Some even give you a new car replacement, NOT the depreciated value. So you're paying the collision premium to have this coverage.

    I totally disagree with statement number 4.

    4) use frequency of claims. While I don't specialize in auto collision pricing, I had had been told in the past that the chance of a total loss claim is about 1% a year; that amounts to about 5% over a 5 year period. Compare that to the approximately 30% chance of a powertrain claim over $500 (based on my company's data, ~3M contracts) over the same period.

    First let me state that a Honda VTEC engine has NEVER had a warranty claim since the inception of VTEC technology. This is based on proven statistics and has been documented in many magazines and articles. In general most powertrains are not likely to breakdown between year 4 and year 5 or 44,000 miles in this example. Total collision claims are larger than the total cost of repair claims.

    A 30% chance of a powertrain claim over $500 seems very inaccurate, unless you're looking at Land Rover, GM, and Ford contracts.

    Take a look at Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura contracts, and I guarantee you that the chance of a powertrain claim over $500 during the EW period is less than 1%.
  • nautica35nautica35 Posts: 11
    Hi all,

    I just purchased yesterday a new 2008 Honda Accord Sedan in California. I did not do my research on Extended Service Warranties because I wasn't going to purchase one.

    Unfortunately, he was able to sell the 7-year/100,000k Extended Service Warranty from Honda Care. The salesman told me that if I were to purchase it later, it would be $2,295. But if I bought it on the spot, I would get the special internet price of $1,601. I eventually got him to package the warranty with the alarm system ($695 Retail) for $1,795.

    I am looking now and seeing some online prices for under $1,000 for the same policy from Honda Care. I am really upset now because I feel I got duped on the Extended Service Warranty.

    So my question is, would I be able to cancel my Extended Warranty from Honda Care? Will it depend on the dealer? They did not go over any cancellation policy, so I don't know if there is one.

    Does anyone think this is a bad deal? or decent deal? I just feel like he tricked me on the pricing of the warranty. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Alex
  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    They did not go over any cancellation policy, so I don't know if there is one.

    Yes, Honda Care has a 60 day cancellation policy. You will have to cancel through the dealership you purchased it from. But you will get a full refund check from Honda Care.
  • nautica35nautica35 Posts: 11
    Thank you. I will go cancel it tomorrow, as I don't think it is necessary and it was quite expensive. I can't believe I got tricked into purchasing it.

    I have another question though, how does it affect the alarm system that I also purchased? They told me $1,795 for the both and they priced it at $1,601 for the Extended Warranty and $194 ($695 retail) for the alarm system.

    Will they ask me to reimburse the full amount for the alarm system?

    Thanks,

    Alex
  • brian2780brian2780 Posts: 4
    I actually purchased an overpriced warranty a couple of months ago and was able to cancel it directly with Honda Care. I was paying on the monthly bank account deduction plan and had only made one payment. I received a refund pretty shortly after canceling. Sorry but I don't know about the alarm issue.

    When I went to purchase another extended warranty online, I found that the places selling it online actually would not sell to California. (https://www.myhondawarranty.com/pricing.php) So right now I am without a warranty, which may be fine and I may stop looking. But if you find somebody that will sell you the Honda Care warranty in California, PLEASE post the dealer and pricing info here.

    Thanks!

    Brian C
    San Francisco, CA
  • nautica35nautica35 Posts: 11
    Brian,

    If you don't mind, do you have an email I can contact you at?

    I will try to cancel directly with Honda Care (I don't really want to go into the dealership and see them again).

    Alex
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    nautica,

    last I checked, you can buy that EW just before you hit the end of your factory warranty for under a $1,000. But that was before Honda locked out Californians from going out of state.

    My best advice for you is to avoid the EW altogether unless you stay up at night worring the car will break down 3 years from now. The Accord is one of the most realiable cars ever made on the planet. Take good care of your new Accord and keep that money somewhere more useful.
  • Alex,

    Same thing just happened to us last week. We didn't research extended warranties & paid $1470 for ours. We were also told we could not purchase after we left the dealership. We are going to go ahead & cancel. According to the Honda Care contract, you have 60 days to cancel & will get a full refund. If you financed the extended warranty through Honda, they will apply the refund to your principal balance. We are hoping once the cancelation goes through, we can repurchase through another dealer. The dealers that sell on-line are telling me that you can repurchase through them after your cancelation is processed through Honda Care as long as you have less than 6,000 miles on the car. I spoke with Honda Care to just ask them general questions & to see if I could repurchase a contract at a later date should I reconsider. Honda Care told me no, you can't purchase once the car is off of the lot. I'm not sure who is correct, but we are so annoyed at being duped by the dealer, that we're willing to take the chance that we cannot repurchase at a later date.

    Has anyone else recently canceled & repurchased? I know Honda is clamping down on it.

    Lynne
  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    Honda Care told me no, you can't purchase once the car is off of the lot.

    Well that's just plain ridiculous. You can purchase Honda Care right up until the time you pass the factory warranty (either in miles or time.)

    You have to purchase before 6,000 miles to get "new pricing". After 6,000 it's a different scale with different time periods and deductibles.

    Contact one of three dealers that display common low prices for Honda Care. If they tell you they can sell it to after your cancellation goes through you can believe them.

    They've been selling to people on this forum for awhile and we haven't seen a complaint that I know of.

    Dealers are:

    http://www.bernardiwarranty.com/

    http://www.myhondawarranty.com/

    http://www.hondacareextendedwarranty.com/

    You can get instant price quotes from them. Usually they are very nearly the same, but sometime they'll give you a coupon for their parts website.
Sign In or Register to comment.