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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dj8dj8 Posts: 6
    Thanks,
    Battery and power are good. Have checked.
  • coheecohee Posts: 3
    I have a 1500 2002 Chevy Silverado in the shop as of yesterday. It just dies and I cannot begin to understand save for the fact that it turns over and tends to get fuel when something or another cools down and allows it to. What happens is it's nice and "cooled" off (the engine temp never gets high) and I am able to go about 70-80 miles and then it will start to "pull", the idle gets sluggish and when I slow down to 30 or 40...it dies and I cannot restart it for a few hours. I replaced the fuel filter, I know it is not the pump b/c I have heard it kick on time and time again and this is the second time it has done this...so it's obviously not the pump if the thing is getting gas. I'm thinking some kind of sensor is overheating? Is there a fuel sensor that will not code when scanned? My rear 02 sensors (the heater part of them) are dead, but I do not see them as having any affect on this problem. I do not want to keep putting this thing in the shop :( I'm just a poor college student for cryin out loud.
  • coheecohee Posts: 3
    i've posted such a message. I haven't done much as of yet, but change the fuel filter. I'm nearly certain it is not the pump. My gauges all read fine and there are no codes when it is scanned. It's in the shop now.
  • artfemartfem Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Silverado K1500 Crew Cab SLE Trim. Looking for reccomendations on a head unit that plays MP3s and has built in Sirius satelite radio. Any suggestions?
  • coheecohee Posts: 3
    This may be a long shot but have you look at the ignition distributor? It was a recall item on my truck. Really simple item.
  • dj8dj8 Posts: 6
    yes, has been changed
    Thanks
  • dj8dj8 Posts: 6
    Done that already.
    Thanks
  • bigabebigabe Posts: 2
    I have 1999 Silverado Ext Cab 3 Door. About eight months ago the low coolant light started coming on intermittently. I checked the reservoir and it looked normal. I added couple ounces of Antifreeze and the problem went away. Since than the problem came back twice and every time I added couple ounces of Antifreeze and the problem will go away. I mentioned the problem to a mechanic during the annual inspection and they pressured the system and did not find any leakage. However, in the past month I have been experiencing another problem. When the engine is shifting from 1st to 2nd gear I feel hesitation in the shifting (hick up), especially when it is cold, not as noticeable when the engine is hot. I took the truck to Adams Transmission and they checked the Transmission and changed the oil and the oil filter and they said the transmission is good but when they scanned the error they found error # 300 (engine miss fire). Any advice before I take the truck to the dealer?
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Most GM trucks have a hard 1-2 shift when cold (emission reasons).
    So not to worry..................

    You should keep a eye out on the loss of coolant tho. Gm has had
    a problem with the intake manifold gasket on late 90s 350 engine
    leaking coolant.
  • tpittytpitty Posts: 1
    I was driving down the road yesterday and my truck died. Fuel gauge was reading E so I thought it may have been the gas. I put in 10 gallons and still would not turn over. I checked the fuses and the 20 amp ECM fuse was blown. No big deal, so I pulled a spare, put it in and that one blew! I didn't want to wait for towing in the 110 Texas heat, so I put a 30 amp fuse in (since I was 5 minutes from home), and it got me to the house. Does anyone know why that fuse would continue to blow, and what wiring is connected to that particular line?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • meangene1meangene1 Posts: 11
    First off,I had an ongoing ac airflow problem that turned out to be low freon.We retrofitted it to 134,the R12 in it smelled strange though.
    Any way I have a new question pertaining to my 90 Silverado 350 5spd.Has anyone had any experience with a lopey idle perf cam not being compatible with the map sensor on this throttle body engine?
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    This is almost always a engine ground wire problem just remove clean coat with a little silicone grease (alot cheaper bought in a fly fishing store for keeping the line floating than auto store) reinstall it I know that sounds way to simple but is a common chevy problem.
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    I don't like to sell things for ppl but do a search on dogpile,com for TBI and you will find a company that sells risers and such but they also have a fuel pressure regulator that is ADJUSTABLE in half pound incrediments. The stock Chevy ones vary from 11 to 12 and most 350's run best around 13. You just click it up a half pound drive around up another half till it doesn't get better then drop back down one click. Makes the idle so much smoother and the acceleration difference is amazing. Highly recommend the riser with relief slot cut between the two injector sides to give balance and the injector pod riser. The extra 1/4" of space makes all the difference in free air intake around the injectors. I have a 93' if the 90' has the same air box on the passenger inner fender remove it. Buy a 2' long piece of white pvc 4" drain pipe. ($2) Cut the hose that went to the old box from the air cleaner about in the middle then warm it with a hair dryer to get it over the 4" pvc without spliting it. Shorten the pvc till the fit to the original fender inlet is good. (the 2" piece still in the fender) It's a perfect fit to the pvc. Top with a new K&N air filter element and you will have a much better breathing engine and minimum 2 mpg increase. No $75 to $175 air box upgrade bull and something fun to talk about at the next up hood meeting.
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    Please see reply/msg #465
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    I need to know what type/weight lube is working best for replacing the old goo?
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    I was fiddling around with my elec door locks to put in a remote/hidden button to pop the lock in case of accidently locking my keys in the truck.(Happened at the skating rink picking up my son and a couple of his friends I opened my door and then reached in and started the truck one of his buddies closed the door on his way by that my alarm had auto locked when I started the truck. Ya idle for 2 1/2 hours with the wipers on. Lifted them but no way to turn off the truck. Remote for the alarm hanging on the keychain, thanks chevy for a good sized radiator) anyway I accidently shorted one of the lock switch terminals. I have had no elec locks since. I replaced the switch but nothing have checked every fuse I can find all ok. Are there some hidden fuses somewhere?
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    probably the crank or cam sensor if it doesn't "see" them turning it shuts down the fuel injectors. Junster
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    Hard to diagnose this online but when my fan was rolling but no air was really going it was the little wire with a coil on the end that fastens to the heater baffle under the center of the dash I just worked the buttons air/hewater buttons and watched via flashlight for something to move when I saw the wire going but hooked to nothing it became obvious. As far as How cold can be a worn air compressor can be in need of a recharge, can just be a slipping drive belt. Make sure the serpentine belt isn't badly cracked or worn so badly that the grooves are thru to deep in the cords. I'd make sure your getting the baffles open all the way and letting th4e air flow. It takes mine at least 10 minutes to really get cold.I have a 93" too. Junster
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    the new Pioneer deh-P8MP is about the best head unit out there. I have a alpine top of the line head unit that plays mp3 and normal cds has no internal amp at all work strictly off external amps I paid $750 for it. I trade it in a sec for this new Pioneer. It was designed from a broad collection of pioneer user input on what the idea car cd would be. It plays cd, wav, wmp (windows format actually with media player 10 is a good format) and mp3. Its satellite ready but with almost all car stereos you need the sirius under dash unit for pioneer it's SIR-PNR1 plugs right in. when you look this unit up online you'll see its way different than the "normal" car unit. All the user interface is on the driver side and the passenger side is all display. almost all the functions are controled with the main volume knob. It rocks in 7 different angles to select the mode you want, to adjust just turn. Works same as the optional audio stuff on new BMW's. Pioneer tuners have been best for FM for the last 2-3 years at least and couple it with a truly high quality set of 2 way separates in your doors and you'll be glad you did. Good quality speakers are in the 350 to 800 range. Where the differences really show is after they have been in the truck a year or so. A set of MK quartz separates cranked countless times, doors slammed over and over. windows open in the rain overnight. yada yada. will still be singing. cheap speakers will have died and caused you plenty of greif they always fail right when your tring to really show off. I bought my amps and bass from ebay and saved about 60% off retail key to ebay is be patient bid once 30 secs before the auction closes and bid the amount you are willing to pay. If it goes that high no suprize over and you wait for the next auction, less and you can affords better quality wires. there are 2 amps a dual coil 10" bass in a custom box fit behind the pass seat. the head unit, pair of $750 door speakers a after market set of pioneer 4" in the rear door columns and the originals in the dash, in my truck. the wiring was $200. If you truly want a 200hp Cowboy jukebox on wheels. do it right. the first time you pull up along side some snot nose kid with a blaring cheap tinny stereo blasting the latest rap. and you roll down your windows halfway or so and then let him have a taste of Toby Keith that shakes his doors he'll flip you off go peeling away and leave you with the most satisfing grin you have had in a long time. sorry to rant Junster
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    use a piece of 1/4" doweling about 3' long with the truck running at the knocking point put the end of the dowel on the block then put your ear to the other end you can't believe how clearly you can hear whats going on this way. move the stick around carefull of the radiator fan. and see if the knock is in the top or bottom of the block. Top is usually a partially collapsed lifter that pumps up when the oil warms. noisy bottom is usually a bad thing. at least you will know. top can be a loose rocker arm too esp if the noise is strongest right under one of the valve covers. You will be able to locate the knock with in 3-4 inches with a dowel. Junster
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