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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • First thing I would do is change the fuel filter. I had this happen before and had similar symptoms.
  • park11park11 Posts: 4
    When taking off (usually low throttle) there's this noise that seems to resonate from the transmission up into the center of the dash. It seems to only happen in first gear and low throttle. Ever heard an empty tin can rolling around? That's kinda what it sounds like. I had it in to the dealership and the service manager and I went for a test drive. He said it's common and something to do with the planetary gear. The truck runs great, it's really just an annoyance more than anything. Anyone else experience this?

    --------------------
    2002 Chevy Silverado 6.0 4x4 3.73
  • FYI, after reporting a problem to my dealer, I was advised there is a TSB out on front shocks for the '05 1500 Crew Cabs. Bad bushings are creating a creaking in the front end. Hope this helps others...
  • :confuse: I have a 2002 silverado and just recently noticed a knock in the steering wheel when you turn. Was wondering if anyone else is having the same problem and if so how did they fix it? I was told by some guy that it is in the steering rod not sure if that is true or not.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    "Steering Clunk" is a well known quirk that sometimes develops in these trucks. TSB-00-02-35-003 was issued to deal with it. Sorry I don't have the text; my Alldata subscription ran out. But it describes the problem of inadequate lubrication in the intermediate steering shaft. If your handy there are two ways to go: You can buy a kit and re-lube yourself (cheapest), or you can buy the improved shaft. I'm not sure the newer shaft is improved because of closer machining tolerances or just a better quality grease or both. That's why I'd recommend the first. And if you go that way don't use the grease in the kit. Get a good quality wheel bearing grease or you'll end up doing it again just as I did. All this, of course, provided the diagnosis is correct. My truck "clunked" while slowly turning into an elevated drive or similar situation.

    -David
  • estakaestaka Posts: 11
    My 1992 K1500 when cold, does ok, but once warm, it will not idle smoothly, then the engine starts surging, then it stumbles and dies. The ignition components are fresh and seem to function fine. The idle air valve was replaced as was the computer with a loaner... no improvement. A scanner was hooked up to it yet no trouble codes came up. The MAP sensor has not been tested, but seems to be working. The TPS seems to be in spec. The EGR valve was removed and checked... no problem there... The EGR vac switch was bypassed and the vac hose disconnected and plugged and still no change. Fuel pressure seems to be OK but have not tested with gauge... I believed since it ran OK at highway speed, it has enough pressure for idle... The truck is a 5 speed manual tranny Step side and if this keeps up it will be wearing a holley real soon. Can anyone help?
  • I will be changing my Rack and Pinion next week what is the best Steering oil to use. What are some of the things I should ensure the mechanic don't do. What are some of the things I should look out for. Please advise me, I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado, Extended Cab two wheel drive.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Is this a shadetree mechanic or the dealer?
  • rwebrweb Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado Ext. Cab, the speedometer will work sometimes and other times it will max out and stick. However, I have noticed that when I turn the truck off and restart it, the spedometer will sometimes jump back about 4-8 M.P.H. ( this would be Okay, if I would'nt ruin the rest of the vehicle restarting all the time to get back to zero) I have noticed that the Odometer is not affected at all. Not a mechanic by any means on todays techno world, however hoping it's something that I could possibly fix myself. Any suggestions!
  • themomthemom Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. My son says it is only hard to get into 1st gear when towing. (Basically, 1st gear is only used when towing) The other gears are fine. Also, when towing or not, when he's on the highway, thus not shifting....the clutch stiffens a lot. As the clutch is used, it gets back to "normal". Any ideas on the cost of clutch replacement if that is needed, and should he get a "performance" clutch or not? Brand?? Thanks so much for your help.
  • '05 Silverado Crew Cab 4WD >>> dealer noted a TSB in place for front end rattle was due to problem with Shock bushings. Shock was replaced --- problem WAS NOT corrected. Apparently there is another TSB on front end rattle that involves suspension part replacements. Will be trying this as soon as the parts arrive.

    Problem very noticeable on un-even roads (where trucks are supposed to be driven!!)

    Anyone else had this problem?
  • I had an '03 2500HD with the snow plow prep package and a Boss 8'2" V-Plow. I experienced major overheating problems during normal driving with the plow on. There is definitely a TSB out there for clutch fan problems --- and you can find more details on how others addressed this on www.plowsite.com (great site with info from guys that plow for a living).

    Good luck!
  • lhesslhess Posts: 379
    04 duramax. Still under warranty so the dealer replaced the part for free. Took over a month to get the part in. Speedo stopped working Christmas Eve of 04 and didn't get the part and get it fixed until late Jan or early Feb 05. Don't know if you can fix it yourself or not. If you have to pay to have it fixed, keep your receipts. It sounds like a pretty common problem and wouldn't be surprised to see a recall at some point.
  • lhesslhess Posts: 379
    to the dealer for an oil change. We're about to hit 36K miles so we made a list of the things we wanted checked prior to the end of the warranty. I'll keep it short, but here's our list:

    1. Routine oil change - no problems.
    2. Comp fuel filter replacment from GM - old fuel filter was full of rust. Had never changed it and they suggested switching gas stations to buy our fuel.
    3. Had the seatbelt recall work done - who cared to begin with?
    4. All the paint was coming off the volume knob for the radio - they ordered the part (for the second time, they lost the last one).
    5. Needed state inspection sticker - right fog light not burning, they fixed.
    6. A/C makes a ticking noise while it's running and even after the vehicle is shut off - they could not hear anything. Started right up within a mile of leaving the dealership. Will stop back by for that one.
    7. They did discover that the freon was low in the A/C and added.
    8. We complained of poor fuel mileage (15 or less highway or town). They found a fuel rail pressure sensor leaking, removed, inspected, resealed.
    9. Steering wheel is off center about an inch and half. They suggested an alignment.
    10. Paint coming off the dash around the steering wheel. Ordered a new one.
    11. We complained of the turbo making a strange noise. No codes but they found an air inlet tube missing?
    12. We had an engine oil leak. Right upper valve rocker cover leaking, they resealed.

    And this was just one trip, we've already had the speedometer replaced, steering fluid pump replaced, a hose on the steering system replaced, a transmitter replaced, something nearly fell out of the rear-end and they tightened it...

    I was shocked to see this many "things" wrong on a $40K+ truck that has not been exposed to harsh driving environments - we don't tow, we don't off-road, we don't haul anything heavier than a lawn mower.... And, we wonder what the truck will be like with a few more miles on it and no warranty?
  • Did you find a solution to your problem? I have the simular problem... the low fuel message light comes on and the gas guage needle goes to zero... then goes back to normal after a few seconds or minutes. Happens regardless of the actual fuel level, if the truck is in idle or
    in drive speeds going down the highway. Had the fuel filter changed but no change or effect.
    Thanks
  • No this is not a shady tree person, however in Jamaica where I live even when you take your vehicle to a dealer and you get it back you end up having more problems than before you take it there, so I always try to get usefull information before taking my vehicle in.
  • I have a Silverado 2500HD CC 4x4 short box and just bought a 32' fifth wheel with a 10500 lbs. GVWR. According to literature, truck's rated for 10100 lbs. Anyone with the same truck pulling anything this heavy or close to it that could advise on performance and potential damage?
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    If you don't fully load your fifth wheel & truckyou may get away with this. Keep in mind that you have to include the weight of yourself, passengers, camping gear, propane tanks, potable water and full load of fuel into the calculations.
    I'm puzzled as to why you bought a unit rated for more than your truck can handle?? Did the salesman tell you "it will be OK" . :confuse: You have exceeded what your truck can handle.

    Ray T.
  • khbushkhbush Posts: 19
    I think the capacity you are seeing is for travel trailers not fifth wheels. My 05 silverado 4x4 sb with a duramax /allison is rated to tow a fifth wheel weighing approx. 15700 pounds. What engine and trans do you have
  • Eagle1,
    I hope that someone posts you with the fix. I am having exactly the same problem that you are with my 2001 Silverado 1500.
  • kps1kps1 Posts: 1
    I own the same truck and tow a 30' fifth wheel.(approx 9000lbs GVWR). It tows it okay, however any kind of long grade you definitly have to watch temp. I drove 2500 miles this summer towing and got approx. 8 mpg.
  • I have an 05 25hd cc, I'm putting on a plow, I'm trying to find a front shock that might handle the extra weight better. Plus I wouldn't mind the up grade.
  • triotttriott Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Silverado Z71 and the problem I'm have is a bit different than others I read on the board. This just started. When breaking (at a slow speed) my ABS chatters like I was on ice (doesn't happen all the time). If I release the brakes and reapply them it doesn't do it. Is this a defected module or what could it be?
    Thanks.

    Triott
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    Bilstein or Rancho both make a good shock for your truck.. I'm adding some Rancho RSX5000 shocks to my truck next week, I'll let you know the result. Also consider a set of Timbrens. They're a solid rubber piece that replace the standard foam bump stops between the frame rail & lower control arm. It limits how much the front end will squat when you lift the plow or go over bumps with the plow hanging off the front end. Also wears your ball joints less. They work really well with the GM trucks since they sit kind of low to begin with. I use them on my 2500 & they work really well. The front end only drops maybe 1/2" or so with an 8' Western plow. I bought mine here:

    Timbrens
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    there was a recall not to long ago for the abs system. I think they just announced it so far because I havent officially got my letter. I have read on other boards that people have had theirs repaired already.

    Check with your dealer!
  • same problem 2000 gmc sierra. what a lemon. My symptoms started with erratic fuel readings. I then noticed a dramatic fuel consumption change. I replace fuel filter but no change. My truck seemed to run fine until a couple of months went by. No start after engine warm mysteriously troubled me from time to time. I couldn't put any correlation to any other symptoms however I did notice the same noise under the dash even after engine was shut off until the door was opened. I thought it was some glitch with the security system. After a month or so of this I was driving on a busy 2 lane when the truck just died. I had plenty of gas as I just filled up. I couldn't hear the fuel pump so I waited for it to cool and to no avail still no pump. I replaced the pump and everything was great for about 2 days. I couldn't see any physical signs of burnt wires but if I reached up on the tank I could get the pump to start working. I thought it must be the plug. I cut the plug off of the harness and took the pins out with a small screwdriver. the plug was fine however the wires were internally corroded. (not burnt) I shortened the wires until corrosion was gone and soldered old pins back on. I rebuilt the plug end and put di-electrode grease on plug. I then hooked it back up and wa la!!! but a bing but a boom but a runs great fuel economy way better, and the fuel gauge isn't even erratic. I still hear that funny noise under the dash. must not be related. Hopefully this will help. I wouldn't count on it. I think mine is a special unit designed solely to rip out the couple of shreds of Chevy lover that I am. in fact here's a little recap of my troubles with the 2000- gmc I have the pleasure of owning.
    1.seat belts 2times still bad
    2. tranny 3 times and working on my 4th.
    3. rear differential. 2times and still f-d up
    4 ac no flow of air
    5. doors falling off
    6 leather seats tearing
    7. tailgate fell of with replacement rear end on it backing into loading ramp it fell off and dented rear quarter panel and demolished tailgate.
    8. all weather stripping on doors replaced twice and still coming loose.
    9. intermittent license plate light since day one.
    10. 3rd door plastic handle broken off
    11 rear quarter panels cracked behind tires.
    12.oh yeah transfer case replaced
    13. throttle positioning sensor bad
    14 oh piss on it gmc won't do a thing even though most of these problems occurred within the first 30,000 in fact the first tranny was gone at 6,000

    good luck

    fritter
  • you must have the rear disc brakes on your truck.. The problem is with the brake rotors. Poor design especially on the drivers side mounting of the ebrake makes it so the rust from the rotors can't escape the wheel assembly thus constantly grinding on the under side of the e brake pad. You probably have noticed that both disc pads wear out unevenly and prematurely on the rear of the vehicle. The only fix I know of is discard the worthless ebrake. It doesn't work anyway and replace rear rotors with an after market type that has cooling holes drilled through disc. This will allow disc to stay cooler and help prevent the rust that is accumulating in the pad area. (by the way I'm kidding about discarding the e brake.) however worthless as it is it might come in handy changing a tire.
  • mine wasn't the sensor but the wires in the plug going to the fuel pump/sensor. shortned plug until corroded wires were good and put plug back together. this took care of the problem you can buy a replacement plug "pig tail" about 19 bucks if your not handy with this sort of repair. It takes about half an hour and you shouldn't have to drop tank. Just on hook from sender and drop it over to the axle side and shorten. hook it back up and you should be on your way
  • I would strongly advise against having GM fix the fuel injection because my experience would prove that they don't know how to fix the problem!!!! I am in my 9th year of owning a 95 diesel Silverado. I bought it to pull my travel trailer and have lived to regret it (fortunately I am still alive after some close calls). (more)

    I would further suggest that charging $2000 to fix a problem that they don't know how to fix is bordering on CRIMINAL, both from a personal safety and financial perspective. I am the original owner of this vehicle. I have had it at the GM dealer no less than five times for this fuel injection problem over the 98,000 miles that I have driven the vehicle. Also, this vehicle has never been serviced by anyone other than a certified GM dealer. Today is Sunday October 16 and I am planning to take it in again tomorrow. It almost left me, my wife, and two dogs stranded in the Lowes parking lot while on our way to our weekend retreat on the Gulf of Mexico. The vehicle cut off in the parking while at idle and re started with great difficulty. So we returned home. This telltale stall is first hint that things are not right. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TRIP THAT THIS VEHICLE HAS HIJACKED. (more)

    Of course I haven't always known the extent of this problem. Only after repeated trips to the dealership, over the years, have I come to know that they can't fix or won't fix the problem. Early on, it never crosses your mind that they can't fix the problem. But after 9 years experience, I am here to tell you, they can't. The will put a patch on the problem that gets you 10,000 to 25,000 miles down the road till the fuel injection system fails again. The most confounding thing ,however, is GM knowingly putting the driving public in danger by having a very large vehicle, usually pulling or carrying a very large load-- since it is a diesel, positioned to lose power and control at freeway speeds endangering the vehicle's occupants and surrounding drivers alike with a high speed accident because of the sudden loss of power and resulting confusion that accompanies such loss. It makes no sense, but is a fact! Do yourself a favor and find a diesel shop that may know of a work around to fix the problem because GM doesn't t have it. By the way, I am still under warranty, 9 years now, with two to go. But a warranty that patches the problem is no replacement for a permanent fix. I continue to put up with it because I am in no position to buy a new truck capable of pulling a trailer. So I just have to plan my trips very carefully and have a good towing service, and take the truck in for repair on the first hint of a problem.
  • I would strongly advise against having GM fix the fuel injection because my experience would prove that they don't know how to fix the problem!!!! I am in my 9th year of owning a 95 diesel Silverado. I bought it to pull my travel trailer and have lived to regret it (fortunately I am still alive after some close calls). (more)

    I would further suggest that charging $2000 to fix a problem that they don't know how to fix is bordering on CRIMINAL, both from a personal safety and financial perspective. I am the original owner of this vehicle. I have had it at the GM dealer no less than five times for this fuel injection problem over the 98,000 miles that I have driven the vehicle. Also, this vehicle has never been serviced by anyone other than a certified GM dealer. Today is Sunday October 16 and I am planning to take it in again tomorrow. It almost left me, my wife, and two dogs stranded in the Lowes parking lot while on our way to our weekend retreat on the Gulf of Mexico. The vehicle cut off in the parking while at idle and re started with great difficulty. So we returned home. This telltale stall is first hint that things are not right. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TRIP THAT THIS VEHICLE HAS HIJACKED. (more)

    Of course I haven't always known the extent of this problem. Only after repeated trips to the dealership, over the years, have I come to know that they can't fix or won't fix the problem. Early on, it never crosses your mind that they can't fix the problem. But after 9 years experience, I am here to tell you, they can't. The will put a patch on the problem that gets you 10,000 to 25,000 miles down the road till the fuel injection system fails again. The most confounding thing ,however, is GM knowingly putting the driving public in danger by having a very large vehicle, usually pulling or carrying a very large load-- since it is a diesel, positioned to lose power and control at freeway speeds endangering the vehicle's occupants and surrounding drivers alike with a high speed accident because of the sudden loss of power and resulting confusion that accompanies such loss. It makes no sense, but is a fact! Do yourself a favor and find a diesel shop that may know of a work around to fix the problem because GM doesn't t have it. By the way, I am still under warranty, 9 years now, with two to go. But a warranty that patches the problem is no replacement for a permanent fix. I continue to put up with it because I am in no position to buy a new truck capable of pulling a trailer. So I just have to plan my trips very carefully and have a good towing service, and take the truck in for repair on the first hint of a problem.
This discussion has been closed.