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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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  • Once again, had to have my $40K 2004 duramax in the shop again yesterday! Less than 2 years old, 40K miles & now the insturment cluster is needing replaced! I don't understand why they are having so many problems with this?? They told me I can pay an additional $1,800 to extend my warranty...or just keep paying out of pocket for the problems with my high $ vehicle. This is Crazy!! :mad: :lemon:
  • I have a 2004 Silverado EXT 5.3 liter Z71. It has an analog dual climate control setup. The fan selector switch currently only works on #5 setting(highest). Over the past few weeks it has gone from working fine (0-5 settings all have different fan speeds) to it's current condition. It has gone from all selections working to only 3,4,5 working to only 4,5 working to now only 5 working... Do you think it is the switch, or is it something else??
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Jump start yourself!

    You can check the negative battery connection - by taking a jumper cable and placing it on the negative battery terminal - then attach the other end to the engine block - if the truck starts then you know the negative cable has a problem - could be the connection at the battery, or to the engine - or maybe the whole cable could be bad.

    Normally when you jump start an engine you hook the positive battery post on both vehicles together with the first cable - then hook the second cable to the negative batter terminal on the car that is running - and then hook the other end to the car engine of then vehicle that will not start on its own.

    If this is how you hooked the jumpers up and the engine started with no problem - then I think your positive cable must be good.
  • I have somewhat of a similar problem with my 04 Silverado. My engine is a 4.3 and has a rattle at low rpms. The rattle stops at higher rpms. The dealership told me that it needed some "flex pipe" but it did not solve the problem. They now believe it is in the motor. I take it back to dealership on Monday.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    A classic symptom of a defective blower motor resistor. Also, refer to post # 922 for instructions how to replace it. The resistor is supposedly only $ 15.
  • Do you think the blower resistor is located in the same place on the 2004? The person who wrote the entry #922 was talking about a 2000 sivlerado..

    Thanks for the post.. I will check this tomorrow
  • Bought a new 2005 Silverado Z71 in July. When I put it in 4 wheel drive it is almost impossible to make a sharp turn. Steering becomes very hard and and the wheels start to skid or slide. this happens on concrete, asphalt, gravel or dirt. Also to keep moving I have to give it a lot more gas. A friend has the same problem. Would appreciate any comments. Thanks
  • All 4wd are like that. Their joints cannot turn. 4wd should only be used in adverse conditions or in mud. If you drive on anything dry, and you continue to push it, you will destroy the entire front driveline. If you have push button 4wd, just press the button before you do any turns. if you need 4wd in a parking lot, u shouldn't be in that parking lot. just straight ahead driving for 4wd. sorry
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I have a 99 Silverado Z-71 - I assume the 2005 is the same set up.

    When in auto-trac - I can turn with no problem - it does not matter what the road surface is - dry concrete - wet - snow - mud.

    In 4 wheel high I can feel a slight difference if on a dry surface - but the truck still turns without much of a problem - that is what the differential is for - that is why it is called a DIFFERENTIAL - it allows one wheel (the outside one) to roll faster than the inside wheel when you go around a corner. It allows a differential between the wheel speeds.

    If I am on dirt or snow or in the mud - even if I am in 4 wheel low the truck turns with no problem - sure I can tell I am in 4 wheel drive - it take a little more power to get going - THAT IS NORMAL.

    If you need to shift your 4x4 out of 4 wheel drive every time you go around a corner - if you are driving on snow - ice - dirt - mud - gravel - then something is wrong with your truck.
  • yateyate Posts: 2
    Does anyone have the answer about this computer ridden truck.
    1. VIN# 1GCEC19V45Z297374
    I have an 05 Silverado with a 4800 engine equipped with trailer tow package.
    Two weeks ago, while driving I noticed the engine temp gauge drop to zero-cold. Heat was still coming out of the heater, and vehicle ran well in all respects. A week later the Check Engine light came on.
    An appointment was made at the dealer and on the way over, the heat gauge worked fine (from start up]. After being inoperative for 2 weeks, the temp indicator resumed working. The mechanic put the scann tool on it, and could read no problems. He reset the CE light. I was not happy about leaving it, as I thought the fault would return. A new temp probe for the engine was ordered and an appointment was made to install.
    When I went back they said they had a Chevrolet car with the same engine come in, with the same problem. (temp gauge to zero and some time later CE light came on.) So they used my ordered probe in his car and ordered me another.
    In the meantime the mechanic thought this to be unusual for same symptoms on 2 vehicles, so he contacted higher authority, and they said that there was a temperature switch in the block heater cord and if it were removed it would cause this problem.
    I had removed the -18C. degree switch incorporated into the plug, as I have a timer for heater and I think -18 (0F ) is far to cold and a heater is needed to prevent wear associated with cold start up.

    The logic, as I was told it, is as follows.
    When the engine has been plugged in, the block is warm. The temperature sensor in the intake manifold senses cold. [Block warm, manifold cold]. This, to the computer is an abnormal situation. This causes confusion to the computer, and the effect renders the temperature gauge inoperative, followed, some time later, by check engine light. The inoperative engine temp gauge is sensed by computer as giving trouble and engine control is taken over by the manifold sensor. The abnormality results in the check engine light coming on a time later.
    Hence this is why engine ran well.
    As I was told it, the cold weather settled into Canada first in the west. Many people felt as I do, & the -18 degree C (0F) switch was removed by many owners. This problem surfaced there first and has worked its way east, reports resulted as the cold weather worked its way east. This all sounds like a stretch to me, The dealer sounds as confused as I. In fact I feel sorry for him to have to deal on a daily basis problems like this.
    However my question is this.
    If all the above is true, where a warm block and cold intake causes engine check light to come on, how about a cold bout of -19 for a few days running. and engine is plugged in.The -18 degree switch is closed activating block heater and the intake manifold is cold. Would not an engine check light be a daily occurrence? I have no idea. Perhaps someone has the answer.
    The GM lady on the phone went ballistic, saying I was going to void my warranty. It sounded like my grade three teacher.
    My personal opinion is that GM made some kind of engineering error and has tried to correct it with this silly 0 F switch. A real back yard approach I think.
    Is this the tall tale of 2005 and I the victim?

    What is your opinion here?
    ...........................................................
    Now if anyone can tell me how to fix the lights coming on, and going off, a dome light that goes out just when you need it. Headlights I cannot shut off that lights up my neighbours bed room as I turn into lane, A radio that stops when you open the door that I can not listen to while around the truck unless the passenger door is open. That incessant key in ignition warning, I will be eternally grateful.
    Thanks a lot.
  • I have a '05 Silverado 4x4 Regular Cab with the 4.8 and 5-speed. I started having this "rattle" in the front driver's side @ around 7,500 miles. The dealer diagnosed a bed mounting bolt as the culprit and "tightened-up" the front suspension. Within two hours of getting the truck back from the dealership it was doing it again. I haven't seen this TSB but will look again unless you can give me the numbers. What suspension components are involved aside from the shock bushings?
  • Thanks z71bill
    I suspected there might be a differential problem in the front. If the rear differential had a problem I would have had a problem in 2 wheel drive. I emailed Chevrolet last Thursday and have a conference call appointment with a representive Monday morning. Also my dealers service manager
    wants me to bring the truck in for them to check after I talk to the chevy rep.
    Thanks again
    Bowdash
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    It should be in about the same spot.. there is a plastic cover that covers the entire blower housing. If you look under the glovebox you can't miss it. It has 3 or 4 hex-head bolts holding it on. Once you remove the cover, you should be able to see the resistor. It has two electrical harnesses going to it, and has a foam seal where it sits in the housing. There are two screws holding the resistor in; then unplug both harnesses and reverse the process to install the new part. I paid $15.xx at my local Carquest parts store for the new resistor, and it took maybe 20 minutes or so to install.
  • at first i noticed rear tank would not use any fuel but gage reads empty than the truck died and can not get it to prime any thoughts?
  • I hope that they'll check and do everything for you...for free. i wouldn't turn that down. I have three GM products and never got get a conference call. i hope i was clear about 4x4. it should be fine on all turns and such. but, when making a SHARP turn, like you described, like turning into a parking space, the 4x4 will bind up. 5 GM 4x4 in my history and two Fords...they all do it. giving it a little gas, will "make it" go, but tear up the outside tire, at best. at worse, it will destroy CV joints, and i've seen it where it will snap steering gears in the steering gear box. forcing a truck to turn is never a good idea. it's stiffing up on you for a reason. good luck. Give 'em hell...they deserve it.
  • My speedometer on my 04 Z71 pegged out the other night at a stop it is showing 90mph start going pegs out again?? Anyone out there know what this may be, not sure if its a cable sensor or what
  • My friend was just here with his 1997 K2500 Chevy last night. His DRL have quit working. We checked fuse 15 at the left end of the dash and made sure the both high beams are working. It has low beams on the outside lamps and they go off and the inter lamps come on for high beams. Looked for a relay in the distribution panel under the hood and did not see one. The light of the dash comes on to indicate that they are on, when he puts it in gear. Which lights should be on for DRLs and any other thoughts?

    Another thing, do the headlights pop out somehow to change the bulbs, or do you have to remove the batteries.
    SNOKING
  • I had My transmission fluid and filter changed at (66224 miles) It was over filled by 3 Qts.... Transmission died a 1,000 miles later.( stopped on a highway would not go foward or reverse) was this caused by it being over filled?
  • I have the same problem with my 2005 GMC 1500. I have tried to fix it myself. I think the ground has gone bad/disconnected and the ground voltage is floating. My speedometer reads everywhere from 60 to off the scale when I am at a stop. I am going to take it to the dealer. I'll report anything I find out.
  • friedfried Posts: 2
    Hi

    I have a 2005 1500 crew cab, 8500 miles. A clunking noise (you could feel it also) just started last week when driving over bumps, etc. around the driver location. Took it to the dealer and they knew exactly what the problem was and fixed it right away. They told me they replaced an intermediate steering shaft.

    I also notice a different clunk when the auto transmission shifts to 3rd gear at times. Will probably take it in for that also (that's why I'm scanning on Edmunds this eve).
  • jbhjbh Posts: 1
    My silverado rides like I have no suspension. In October of 2004 I had the tires replaced, I replaced them with the oem tires because I had got 65000 miles on the last pair. In August of 2005 I started feeling the bumps and the cracks in the asphalt with a "jarry" pronounced feeling and the whole trucks interior would start to rattle. One month later I replaced the shocks all the way around. I am still having the "jarry" ride. I am running with the correct tire pressure as printed on the door label. This is the LT model and it had rode like a Cadillac with a very comfortable and quiet ride. Can anyone give me advice on what to do?
  • You do not need the full door stick air in the rear when you do not have a load in it. There may be a tire pressure chart with the owners papers. Weigh the front and rear and set the air according to the pressure chart. SNOKING
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Possible, but no one can say for certain without a tear-down by a good transmission man.
  • Just had my 2005 Silverado to the dealer for another problem and mentioned I was getting an intermittent bump on the shift either from first to second or second to third. They checked it and the following is the technicians report:

    (C/S gets a bump at 1/2 or 2/3 upshift. Occurs intermittent. Ran Diagnostic check for codes. None found. Reflashed Powertrain Control Module with latest calibrations.)

    Don't understand what the above means and I have only driven a few miles since but so far no bumps on shifting. Should have asked but was so interested in my primary problem that I didn't read the bump report on the warranty
    paper work until I got home. If the shift bumps don't start again I guess it dosen't really matter. Hope your dealer can take care of your shift noise.
  • I took my GMC to the dealer today and they are going to replace the entire instrument cluster. The guy said that was the only fix. The new instrument cluster would have the same data from the computer already loaded so I won't lose my mileage. Bummer, if it went back to zero then my warrantee would still be good for another 36,000 miles. Luckily mine is under warrantee. Good luck.
  • Thankyou. I was able to repair this at a cost of $26 for the resistor. The 2004 has a resistor that is on an IC board, the older than 2001 resistors are exposed wires... The part that the dealer sold me has been ec'ed now into a ceramic encased system. Looks like it will not fail again from the looks of the redesign.

    The blower fan works great now.. Thanks again.
  • I CHECKED WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THAT VEHICLE AND THERE IS 3 FUSE FOR LITES FUSE 15, FUSE 9, AND FUSE 4 IN FUSE BOX LEFT OF DASH FUSE 4 10AMP FOR DRL LAMP MODULE FUSE 9 PARK LITES ALSO MAKE SURE EM BRAKE IS NOT SLITLEY ENGAGED
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I would try changing the shocks for a softer type. Many heavy duty gas charged shocks make vehicles ride harsher than regular oil filled shocks. I experienced this on my 95 Nissan 4X34 pickup: I replaced the stock oil filled shocks with gas charged heavy duty shocks and the ride got noticeably more jarry and harsh.

    BTW several years ago I test drove a new S-10 4X4 blazer with the Z off road package. It had Bilstein heavy duty shocks on it, big 31X10.5 tires and the ride was awful! I never rode in a new vehicle that rode so harsh! Regular shock absorbers and smaller tires would no doubt improve the ride quite a bit.

    The term "shock absorber" is somewhat misleading. They are actaully shock dampeners, becuase they do not absorb the shock at all. This is done by the springs or torsion bars. Sock absorbers merely slow down the spring or torsion bar oscillations. If the shock absorbers are very stiff, they allow less spring or torsion bar movement and cause quicker rebound, thus causing a stiffer, more jarring ride.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I have a 1999 Silverado x-cab LT Z-71

    I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein Heavy Duty - I also replaced the stock Firestone Wilderness 265 75 16 (P rated car tires) tires for 285 75 16 load range D.

    After these changes the ride is much stiffer - but that is OK with me - when empty it rides like a truck!

    When I have a load in the bed - or when I tow IMO the ride and handling is better than stock. The truck also corners much better - not as much body roll.

    I run 33/30 PSI front/rear empty & the ride is OK. When hauling a load or towing I normally run 40-50 PSI (tires are rated to 65PSI.
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