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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • yateyate Posts: 2
    On my 05 the hour meter went to zero. The dealer replaced but they do not know why it did what it did. The mechs know nothing about the electronics.
    Welcome to the disposable throw away truck.
  • unorocksunorocks Posts: 1
    I have the same truck and am having the same problem. Took it to the dealership and for $80 all they could tell me is that their computer said it checked out. Didn't exactly set my mind at ease. No the lights on the dash that tell you if you are in 2wd or 4wd sometimes are on and sometimes go out. Very frustrating. Somebody out there knows what's going on...
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Guys...........MANY problems with these 04/05 units posted
    on several GM truck sites. All requiring replacement of
    entire unit ! So you are not alone. A little searching
    about the net will clue you in.
    The dealer playing dumb can sure piss you off eh?
    A few print outs of others problems and INSISTING "nicely"
    of course to mr. dealer and they should replace these
    units............
    No TSBs that I can find either......Good luck !!!!!!!!!

    More "quality" 3rd world parts in our trucks!!!! :sick:
  • I'm not sure if the is is the right spot, so please bare with me and well I apologize for any inconviences I may cause.

    New to the site, couldn't really find anything what I was kinda hoping for.

    I have a 2WD 2001 Silverado 2500HD.

    Every now and then when I come to a stop, and then take off again... i'll get this clunk. It seems like the rear end, but does seem like a rear end problem and if so why? I only get it when I press hard on the brakes, and then take off from a complete start. Any idea's, cuz it never seems to happen 'round my mechanic.

    Also, it whines.... people said it's normal, a bud of mine has a truck similar to mine and his does it too... is it really normal to hear this whine while in motion?

    Thanks for any help.... :cry:
  • I have a 2000 Silverado 4WD that had the similar problems. I lost the transfer case speed encoder computer board ($1500 dealer item with labor) all of the sudden. Then I had problems with the push button 4WD switch. Another dealer had me replace the 4WD selector switches ($80 parts/labor) because there were documented cases of faulty switches that create dead shorts and kill the... encoder board. So... get your switchs replaced before you shift to 4WD and all of the lights blink and then go out for good.
  • I've got the same issue on my 2000 Silverado 4WD (93,000 miles). The best I can tell is the noise is in the rear end ring and pinion set. I'm still trying to solve my issue too.

    I've had the universal joints replaced and installed a new slip yolk. So my drive shaft is more or less new. I also hear the noise when I go over a pothole or dirt road and the rear end hops a bit.

    I'm looking for answers too!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Was that slip "yolk" yellow and mushy? :P

    Just kidding, I may have to replace my slip yoke at some point in the future.
  • stdtjv13stdtjv13 Posts: 1
    i have an 04 silverado 1500 ext cab, and every once in a while the tachometer gets stuck on 6000 rpms, just the tach, not the transmission or anything, is that just some sort of a short or something or what because after a day or so it goes back down to normal, its annoying.
  • I own a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x4 4.8, well my husband does, but shhh. I am trying to surprise him for his birthday and I am getting matching shifter knobs made for his shifter and his transfer case. The guy who is making them knows the size of the threads for the shifter but the transfer case shifter knob doesnt't just unsrew so I take it off and go have it measured. I have tried to find it in our Chilton's and I have called a couple of dealerships who's main mechanics gave me the I have no idea what you're talking about speech. If anyone knows what the thread size is or knows someway to find that information, that would be really great. Thank you so much.
  • buttsterbuttster Posts: 3
    This Allison has a problem, "DOWN SHIFTING" under load, in "TOW MODE", to maintain the torque power band. It will go under 2000RPM before shifting. Has any one else found this and if so what was your cure, other than "MANUAL" shifting down?
  • tburns6tburns6 Posts: 1
    i have a silverado 1500 with power door and window issues. windows will open sometimes, on both sides and not other times, same with doors. i used to be able to open and close driver door to make it work but not anymore...

    locks are out on both sides but not always. also, my low coolant light and 4wheel drive lights come on even though they have both been fixed or were okay in first place. any thoughts?
  • 19771977 Posts: 5
    Problems with fuel gauge erratic readings. Most mornings after approx 10 minutes gauge is correct but will re-occur after sitting still for 15-20 minutes. From previous posts and other gathered info suspect in-tank sending unit requires replacement. Looking for instructions for dropping tank and all other procedures to complete this repair. Any ideas on cost of sending unit-thanks.
  • Had the same problem for several months and was distessed. Went through the u-joints, checked rear end, axle wrap and so on. Talked to a lot of people about it and could not find a solution from dealerships to drive-tain shops. I even considered buying a new Dodge ( I know, what was I thinking). Did some checking and adjusted torsion bars so both side were the same and the ride was level, that was a bit out of line. Since I had slammed the crossmember that supports the trans. a few times I also replaced that. Klunk dissappeared. What can I say? Istill do not know what the problem truly was. All I can say is that it was probably an alignment issue. Good Luck
  • A couple of days ago, I hit a fire hydrant. The damage was to the passengers front fender, but now my electric drivers window won't roll up, my radio dash lights went out. Could the accident have caused this?
    Prior to the accident, my gas gauge went all stupid! It sets on empty and the low fuel light is on all the time.
    Can anyone help me?
  • timing off on 5.7 vortec 2001 silverado after intake repair marked dist cap and rotor. no leaks. drags when trying to start always have bit when starts runs rough?
  • sxvipersxviper Posts: 3
    Yes mine also failed on my 04..well out of warranty so dealer said best they could do was cover 30%. Now I'm working on my latest issue of the "check engine" light being on with a rough idle..DIA code of "random misfiring of cylinders" :mad:
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Your misfire is from one or more of your coil packs going out. Had to replace four of them on my 01 silverado a few years ago. Cost is about$80 thru the deal, couldnt find them any place else back then might have them now at autozone etc. Fixed the problem right up for me!
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    I own a 2002 Silverado 1500 LS, 5.3 V8 with 45,000 miles and have noticed the following problems within the last couple of months. I was hoping that someone familiar with these issues or have had the same problems might be able to assist. They are:
    1. Low Coolant light comes on. When checking the reservoir, it only appears to be down about 1/2". I purchased a gallon of the pre-mixed Dex Cool to use to top off, but still can't figure out if there is a leak, or if it something worse.
    2. Low Washer Fluid. I believe I might have a leak in one of the seams of the white plastic bottle. When I got underneath the truck, the bottom of the bottle was wet, but I couldn't pinpoint a leak.
    3. Gear Indicator. When the truck is warmed up (usually after I have been driving it for about 1/2 hour, and shift from drive to reverse, the gear indicator on the dash will sometimes remain in drive, then move to reverse. When I shift to Park, the gear indicator will either show the vehicle as being in "R", or sometimes moves to "Drive". Although the vehicle is actually in Park, the gear indicator showing as being in another gear will not allow the doors to unlock automatically as it's supposed to do when it is put in Park.
    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
  • dagoreddagored Posts: 13
    I had a sticky throttle also. had it replaced by my local mechanic. $80. now it is sticking again. what a pain. :(
  • sxvipersxviper Posts: 3
    Thats what I thought..coil packs are fine though, I was told it was intake manifold which is now also ruled out and now they are saying bad cam shaft :mad:
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Someone please correct me if im wrong... but wasnt the sticky throttle caused by carbon build up near the intake??? I recall all you had to do was take the air intake hose off and run a rag around it to wipe the build up off and it would usually work normal again. once again PLEASE correct me if im wrong!
  • rreed1rreed1 Posts: 2
    :shades: you should have your injector rails and injectors cleaned.
  • rreed1rreed1 Posts: 2
    No you are correct. 5 minutes tops
    :shades:
  • Okay so this happened last night. Came back from running errands then while driving around the complex to look for parking I noticed that the shifting was really hard as it upshifted. This morning I got in and started it up and started going. Was fine then all of a sudden when I turned out onto the street and gave it gas, it started to slip and I heard grinding noises as I gave it more gas. It felt like the gears were engaging and disengaging. I decided to turn back around and take it home and when I got to my parking spot to try to back it in, it wouldn't go into reverse. I turned off the engine and turned it back on and now reverse is okay. I backed it into my parking and now I'm pondering over what is wrong with it. Does anyone here have had similar experience? I'm hoping I don't have to rebuild my whole tranny cause its going to cause some money. Any input will be appreciated and figures also for those who have experienced it.
  • The sticky throttle occurred on our 2000 Tahoe with the 5.3
    engine. The fix was to clean the intake where the butterfly works and install a small piece of some type to help prevent further problems. Our vehicle was fixed by a GM mechanic and we have not had a problem since the repair.

    The repair had been made once before without the part being added and we had the problem again.
  • i have a 2002 chevrolet silverado that is slugish in 1st and lose power at the beging of 2nd then power comes back. Tuned up truck and still have problem. Truck has b$m shift kit and corvette cervous. This problem started a month after tranny work and a day after it rained for two days. Truck has full power in 3rd and OD. If any i dea what this is plese write back thanks.
  • minuekittyminuekitty Posts: 1
    o__O;;; okay. my chevy silverado has been working absolutely perfectly since it was purchased new in 2004. it only has 12,520 miles on it as of this morning. at college, it was fine; at work at five it was fine...

    until i got in it after work. >_<;; mine is set to automatically lock when you shift gears from park; when it tried to do so, the doors made a horrid noise. i experimented with it some: when unlocking with the power door locks, it makes two quick subsequent clicking noises. when locking, it makes an almost... griding of gears noise. it's a short one, but kind-of loud and mostly based in the driver's side door. i'm unsure what could have caused it, considering i didn't really drive it much today in the first place.

    my mother thinks it could be the battery (it's never been replaced, but i've not driven too terribly much), and i've read several threads saying a blown fuse may create a problem like mine.

    any thoughts, guys? ( poor giant green cucumber. ;__; )
  • lwittorflwittorf Posts: 96
    Try shuting off your defrost mode on heater mine is doing the same thing and just by going to the vent setting the poping stops my dealer tried several on lot all did it says it is where some tube goes up fire wall no fix as yet. I thought it was axle or something like that but not so. Hope you have better luck than I have.
  • try checking the plugs, i had same prob and i changed everything and it turned out to be the plugs, also check to make sure u r getting fuel
  • rdc1500rdc1500 Posts: 4
    Anyone thats replaced power steering gear boxes, pitman arms, etc I could use your help.

    Just put in a new power steering gear box and even though reference marks were made for reinstallation, a couple things are off now. 1) The wheels are ok in relation to each other but are turned a bit to the right. 2) From the center point where the steering wheel is, I can rotate the wheel 1.5 times to the left and 1.25 to the right, so I think maybe the gear could have been off a turn or two where the pinch bolt goes(?)

    Does anyone know how the pitman arm should look in relation to the gearbox or truck body when the steering wheel is centered? Should it be parallel to the gear box or parallel with the front to back end of the truck?

    With all that said, When moving the steering a little left to line the wheels up, the pitman is now parallel with the steering box and the max travel to the left and right from that point is the same. I'm wondering if things were off to begin with and maybe now the steering wheel should be moved... I can't seem to find any info on the pitman position. I haven't actually moved the steering wheel yet.
This discussion has been closed.